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I looked this up because I was curious, wanted to share in case others were wondering
Re: Lithium IMR vs ICR vs IFR
First off, this will explain their names:
In the case of IxR, the first Letter "I" just means that the cell is a Li-ion rechargeable. Second letter refers to the cathode material. The last letter "R" just means the cell is round.
ICR = Li-ion Rechargeable, the "C" = Cobalt.
IFR = the "F" stands for the element "Fe" which is Iron
IMR = the "M" stands for Manganese, or "Mn".
I have seen "r" being "round" as well as "rechargeable"I looked this up because I was curious, wanted to share in case others were wondering
Re: Lithium IMR vs ICR vs IFR
First off, this will explain their names:
In the case of IxR, the first Letter "I" just means that the cell is a Li-ion rechargeable. Second letter refers to the cathode material. The last letter "R" just means the cell is round.
ICR = Li-ion Rechargeable, the "C" = Cobalt.
IFR = the "F" stands for the element "Fe" which is Iron
IMR = the "M" stands for Manganese, or "Mn".
Info on some web sites say the fire button on Zmax will flash red as a low battery warning, has anyone seen this happen yet?
To my knowledge and from what S.T. told me via skype video call, their is NO led under or near the "F"button. The screen may flash but I always change my batts at 3.6v single setup, and 6.9v stacked setup.
I expect to receive my 18350 battery cap tomorrow, I'm a little curious if I will see any difference other than perhaps shorter battery life as I am using the good 18650 Panny.
I thought the "r" was for "Runcible" as an honorary shout out to Dr. Runcible Spoon, the inventor of Lithium.
Studiovap (sir or Ms.?) The i in imr (was well as icr) was actually supposed to be a L. When the first imr batts came out they were labeled lMR, so many took it for imr instead of LMR so the name stuck.
Lithium's symbol is "Li" anyway so who cares if it is an I or an L? I think the I makes for a more cool sounding name. LMR sounds lame. LOL
Prefer the imr name as well Jackbox sir. Originally thought it meant ion manganese rechargeable (ion cobalt rechargeable for icr), after some research and talking to a few people found out the origin. According to what one source said (unconfirmed, so take no blame if it's false) it's directly tied to the aw high drains. They were the ones people took lMR to mean imr.
Well I have to give you credit where it's due....not many people know that fun fact about the IMR/LMR battery. BUT.....your absolutely correct.
Hah! that is cool! Now the question is do I start calling them LMR's and have to explain that to everyone that says I am an idiot LOL
This is a serious question guys.
I can get a new black chrome Vmax (r4) from Health Cabin for $79.55 shipped or a chrome ZMax from Pink Mule with both ends caps for $142.80 shipped. Should I save the $64 and go for the VMax or spend the extra money and get the ZMax? I suspect with both I can get a similar vaping experience but the ZMax would be less fuss as it would set the voltage itself for the ohms and wattage. With the VMax I would have to do a little more trial and error to find the sweet spot. All non-sarcastic replies would be appreciated.
I can get a new black chrome Vmax (r4) from Health Cabin for $79.55 shipped or a chrome ZMax from Pink Mule with both ends caps for $142.80 shipped. Should I save the $64 and go for the VMax or spend the extra money and get the ZMax? I suspect with both I can get a similar vaping experience but the ZMax would be less fuss as it would set the voltage itself for the ohms and wattage. With the VMax I would have to do a little more trial and error to find the sweet spot. All non-sarcastic replies would be appreciated.
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At this point in time, I would not get a VMax unless I was getting it as a backup device. Not to say that it's not good or anything but the VW, set it and forget it is definitely worth the extra $60 in my opinion.
For me, the choice between the Vmax and the Zmax came down to the atomizing devices I intended, or anticipated, putting on top. I have many different devices with varying resistances, including a couple of RBAs, so for me the variable wattage of the Zmax was attractive, especially since my very positive experience with VW via the Kick, which I have permanently installed in my Legacy. That said, if you have one favorite atomizing device that you use consistently, and don't do a lot of resistance changes, then the variable voltage can give you the same vaping experience at lower cost.
Scott hated the Darwin... Just saying, back when the D and the. Provari were getting into all kinds of fights. I totally agreed with his review of the D.
Since then never had a VW but now that I read these reviews of the Z I think i get it. The RBI,s in my experience have tended to go up in resistance ... May be just me and I sold my Gen,s and my odys, but lately got the Fatty V 2 and although better, still some shifting. Btw the Fattys flavor is the best any rba i have tried. What I,m saying is seems like the VW will adjust to any shift in resistance even minor. It comes down to making a good coil though.
I put the Z in my sig since its paid for just not in yet.
Worth the extra $ ? I hope so... I'm so impressed with the VMax, I couldn't resist.
Since then never had a VW but now that I read these reviews of the Z I think i get it. The RBI,s in my experience have tended to go up in resistance ... May be just me and I sold my Gen,s and my odys, but lately got the Fatty V 2 and although better, still some shifting. Btw the Fattys flavor is the best any rba i have tried. What I,m saying is seems like the VW will adjust to any shift in resistance even minor. It comes down to making a good coil though.
I put the Z in my sig since its paid for just not in yet.
Worth the extra $ ? I hope so... I'm so impressed with the VMax, I couldn't resist.
Ok here's your serious answer.....Not to take away from the Vmax but the black chrome or 'gunmetal' does have color fading issues. It fades and kinda rubs off. I do belive CCV has a better "powerbuy" and they have the SS with the 20 unit very limited run red led display. And theirs comes with Awesome E'fest batteries and battery box or Panny CGR's. 2 of the best batteries on the market today, I'm not really sure of the end cap situation but I would think multiple vendors would be worth checking out for spending over $140 bucks. Don't forget to account for shipping costs into the total also, some vendors are running free shipping on it and some are not. Jason at electronicstix has them in stock also I believe. The best advice I could give is definitely go for the Stainless Steel version no matter V or Z. I have the chrome Z and SS Z, the SS is much much better IMO, the SS Vmax is the absolute best model of the bunch just make sure you get the blue display with eGo top cap with the SS Vmax.
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All the sites that have the ZMax for sale so far only have the chrome version. Those of you that have it do you feel the chrome will rub offor do you think they did a better job than on the VMax? Does anyone know how it compares to the Stainless Steel version? I found a site where I can get a chrome ZMax with an included IMR battery for $123.13 shipped (using a discount code). Deciding whether to go for it or what for Stainless Steel and/or version 2. The end cap is another $6+ but not sure if I need that or not.
Did u see Bubba Busardo's text on this below his 801 Fusion video? Think it was on tasterurjuice not Utube.
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