I just read something i've never heard about before, and to me, extremely interesting! It also explains e.g. why a mod-maker had hot-button issues on a 0.2 build, but not on a 0.11!
I once again was perusing youtube for hot-button/spring tips/issues, and found a video about stripping some wire and making your own free copper spring, for maximal conductivity, and in the comments below the video, I found this great comment, explaining why some springs work and others doesn't:
remedialjoe:
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just tried with 10gauge copper wire and it had higher conductivity than my atty causing switch to heat up.. a very nice strong spring but not functional on a .28ohm build. my guess is the 4 wrap copper coil was somewhere near .10ohm..current always goes to least resistance making this more likely to function properly with a lower ohm build. so that leads to a few questions.. whats the resistance of ur build and what amp batteries are u using?
Source for video:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkKZgn3oZVU
However, the underlining post by another person, stated somewhat the same but with a difference:
Daniel La fosse:
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Higher conductivity than you atty is what you are looking for. If you have a .28 build anything with a resistance above that will give you a hot button.
The first states the spring needs to be higher resistance than your build to avoid the issue, but the second states lower resistance? I think though, that the first quote is the right one, since else your mod-body would always heat up, if I understand this right...
Finally, since I still, at a much lesser rate, gets this issue completely without any spring/magnets, then doesn't that imply that there's something in my switch, maybe the little brass-firing pin that is screwed in, that has a resistance that makes hot-button's occur compared to my 0.17 build? If so, then i'm screwed with this mod basically, or atleast with this build-resistance?
I'm not very bright in relation to conductivity and electron-flow etc. I know ohms law and the pathway for the current on a mech mod and atty plus how the switch works, but that's about it, I must admit...
Thanks in advance for any comments on this, please...
Edit: Tried 28g, which is highest gauge I own, and made a long spring and tried it, to raise resistance well over atty i.e. 0.17, and it works pretty good, but still gets very hot if chain-vapping...
Edit2: Hmm, I think it actually happens the same no matter what type spring, no spring or toilet-papir! (-Yes, it does, and just comes when the atty is stressed and gets really hot, e.g. pressing the fire-button in for 5-10 secs a couple times in row with small breaks to rejuice, on that 0.17 build, and the sides of the mod a little hotter than normal, and the button really hot, and all this is without any spring/magnet inside for testing..)
Edit3: YES!

It hasn't happened now after firing it 2 * 20secs and the atty got blazing hot, but not the button! I really hope it keeps up like this! What has changed? I read an article about mech mods and sub-ohm, and where they recommended magnets for that, since springs easily collapse and loose tension and will in that hinder the switch elements up against the spring and they stated that if having to use switches anyway, then it was important to often stretch it out, and I did that to the stock spring that came with the clone, and assembled it, and what do ya' know; it seems to work!
