Snails - Response on Threads Part 7
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So far:
26 gauge: 1
28 gauge: 3
Kanthal: 2
Stainless :2
..........
I note "somebody" not chiming in.
26 gauge: 1
28 gauge: 3
Kanthal: 2
Stainless :2
..........
I note "somebody" not chiming in.
I'm using stock coils. 
I have 28 g (low ohm coils) and 32 g (for high-ohm, power efficient coils) wire for the RTA deck. FYI, 26 is for sub-ohm too, if you have a pretty high-watt device.
The thicker the wire, the more watts it will take to heat it enough to even start to vaporize over even a few wraps. Thicker wire disperses a lot of that heat over a wider area and also "wastes" more of it in terms of conduction. So the very sub-ohm guys use super-low-ohms and often use 26 g wire. 28 is easier to manage for me. 32 is for making replicas of "stock" coil types.
VV/VW devices are easier to "dial" to the proper temp without having to "get the ohm right" so much. Mechs are fixed voltage (well, not adjustable).
There's 1000 wiring variation, as you've noted already. Coiled, twisted, braided, whatever-ed.
I have 28 g (low ohm coils) and 32 g (for high-ohm, power efficient coils) wire for the RTA deck. FYI, 26 is for sub-ohm too, if you have a pretty high-watt device.
The thicker the wire, the more watts it will take to heat it enough to even start to vaporize over even a few wraps. Thicker wire disperses a lot of that heat over a wider area and also "wastes" more of it in terms of conduction. So the very sub-ohm guys use super-low-ohms and often use 26 g wire. 28 is easier to manage for me. 32 is for making replicas of "stock" coil types.
VV/VW devices are easier to "dial" to the proper temp without having to "get the ohm right" so much. Mechs are fixed voltage (well, not adjustable).
There's 1000 wiring variation, as you've noted already. Coiled, twisted, braided, whatever-ed.
So far:
26 gauge: 1
28 gauge: 3
Kanthal: 3
Stainless :2
..........
Well, 26 AND 28 with Kanthal AND Stainless is only 4 combinations. That's
not overdoing anything unless I get those utility company spools of each:
26 gauge: 1
28 gauge: 3
Kanthal: 3
Stainless :2
..........
Well, 26 AND 28 with Kanthal AND Stainless is only 4 combinations. That's
not overdoing anything unless I get those utility company spools of each:
You forgot 32 for efficient "tootle puffer" coils. (the stock coils you use now are probably 32)
I use both 28 and 26 Kanthal
and P.S.I use both 28 and 26 Kanthal
if ya don't wanna coil these youself you may purchase by quantity ( 50 pk, 100 pk, 200 pack ) pre-coiled at ohms of your choice frum dat place dat rhimes wiff Past Beck for extremelys cheap prices. They come in little plastic boxes labeled what they is.
bear has left the land of tootle puffers - all those supplies ended up in the classies!
mostly cuz I lazy and don't feels like coiling da wire rolls I habes in da drawer 
Lordy Helps Me
Lordy Helps Me
I thought FOR SURE you were a DIYer, through and through.I'm using stock coils.
I have 28 g (low ohm coils) and 32 g (for high-ohm, power efficient coils) wire for the RTA deck.
Ooooo!!! You said "that word"!!! Oooooo!!!bear has left the land of tootle puffers - all those supplies ended up in the classies!
I currently have Joye, Smok and Kanger "heads" and they are ALL different.and P.S.
if ya don't wanna coil these youself you may purchase by quantity ( 50 pk, 100 pk, 200 pack ) pre-coiled at ohms of your choice frum dat place dat rhimes wiff Past Beck for extremelys cheap prices. They come in little plastic boxes labeled what they is.Omly took 8 days to get to florida where I is butts I dunno where ya'll's is
One is vertical.
One is single-coil.
One is double coil.
And all 3 heads are "proprietary" to their specific tanks.
I thank you for the Fast Tech suggestion, but thinking I'm up Merde's Creek
in that respect unless I want to buy MORE tanks. I don't want to spend
more $ on hardware (tanks, mods, etc) until after I'm set with DIYing coils
and liquids.
Oh! Well, then...it's the link that did you in not the word
What do I have to do to unload that crap???
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