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Yet another carto/atomizer battery kit variant. Larger than the cigarette sized ones. Kind of small cigar sized. It has a 510 connector that is recessed maybe 1/4-1/2 inch. As if you extended the outside tube of the carto/atomizer down past the connector. Naturally, only a battery with a small enough diameter will fit in the "skirt" to screw on to the 510 connector. I think the design was primarily aesthetic (and also steers you to buying their batteries).
Here are the three variations I am working on making:
Universal: Done
Ego: In progress
ProVari: Future
These were all done on the emachineshop.com software...
Dan
Universal: Done
Ego: In progress
ProVari: Future
These were all done on the emachineshop.com software...
Dan
Just a tip for you guys on the machining....every additional tool that needs to be programmed..zeroed and dialed in adds to the cost because tool and part setup is the most time consuming....keep it to a minimum and simple and your parts wont be so expensive.
To me, matching the ego battery isn't so much as to have a skirt to graduate into a larger atty, but not dwarfing the battery with a larger atty, both in regards to length and width. Something like l3oertije has done with his ego cigar appeals to me in this respect. For some reason I find all the ego-t or big carto gear looks just off. The willpro still pulls it off though, not too long, not too fat.
Well, I think I am about done with the hybrid. 
I have been waiting all night for the silicone to cure so I could use it again after being without it for 4 months. I put everything back together, put some drops on the wick to test out my wraps (was considering soldering the kanthal to the posts for better connection), fired it up and got a great tasting cloud of vapor. Filled the tank, hit the button again, and nothing. Yet another switch has failed.
The only reason I haven't gone back to POCs switch is because of the leaking issue and having to fill the switch housing with silicone, not to mention I can't find a pocket friendly switch. This was my way to quit smoking all together ( started back after the last time I had to go back to attys and cartos)...so for a few months now.. I'm tired of failing attys, cartos that taste burnt after one day, and constantly having the mess with everything. 
Oh well. Hopefully this coop will produce something that works well with every other mod. But to be honest, I would like to see if one of the skilled modders might be able to rebuild this one for me, or give me an idea of a good switch to put in it. Soldering I have no problems with.....I'm a welder by trade. Electronics on the other hand...I know nothing. I still say this is the best thing out there without a doubt ( than you again Raidy and POC!). For the ones that are not having any issues, I congratulate you and am glad you aren't having issues.
For now, gonna rebuild with the last switch I have. Strong enough to handle the load, just not safe enough to carry with me outside of the house. And a little too big for the switch housing so i can't screw the batt tube on all the way. But at least I might be able to use it at home for now.....keep from going outside to smoke anymore.
I have been waiting all night for the silicone to cure so I could use it again after being without it for 4 months. I put everything back together, put some drops on the wick to test out my wraps (was considering soldering the kanthal to the posts for better connection), fired it up and got a great tasting cloud of vapor. Filled the tank, hit the button again, and nothing. Yet another switch has failed.
The only reason I haven't gone back to POCs switch is because of the leaking issue and having to fill the switch housing with silicone, not to mention I can't find a pocket friendly switch. This was my way to quit smoking all together ( started back after the last time I had to go back to attys and cartos)...so for a few months now.
. I'm tired of failing attys, cartos that taste burnt after one day, and constantly having the mess with everything. Oh well. Hopefully this coop will produce something that works well with every other mod. But to be honest, I would like to see if one of the skilled modders might be able to rebuild this one for me, or give me an idea of a good switch to put in it. Soldering I have no problems with.....I'm a welder by trade. Electronics on the other hand...I know nothing. I still say this is the best thing out there without a doubt ( than you again Raidy and POC!). For the ones that are not having any issues, I congratulate you and am glad you aren't having issues.
For now, gonna rebuild with the last switch I have. Strong enough to handle the load, just not safe enough to carry with me outside of the house. And a little too big for the switch housing so i can't screw the batt tube on all the way. But at least I might be able to use it at home for now.....keep from going outside to smoke anymore.
Riddle, How big is the hole for the switch?
I have some 10 amp ones on the way from China.
They need a 12mm hole if it is something you can use (and wait 3 more weeks for).
I have some 10 amp ones on the way from China.
They need a 12mm hole if it is something you can use (and wait 3 more weeks for).
Gummy,
Not sure about the size of the hole. I used a dremel to open it up some to fit the switch I have now. So I would guess it isn't much larger than the original hole. I have a 5 amp switch that I can put in it, got it from radio shack after I melted the one that came with it. It works good, just way to easy to push and a slight breeze would probably set it off. I had to take the battery out when I wasn't using it. I'm going to have to order some metric drill bits, can't find any anywhere here. A couple of the guys have already offered to rebuild it for me, but I don't have the original switch anymore. May have to order another one.
Have a site where I can take a look at em?
Not sure about the size of the hole. I used a dremel to open it up some to fit the switch I have now. So I would guess it isn't much larger than the original hole. I have a 5 amp switch that I can put in it, got it from radio shack after I melted the one that came with it. It works good, just way to easy to push and a slight breeze would probably set it off. I had to take the battery out when I wasn't using it. I'm going to have to order some metric drill bits, can't find any anywhere here. A couple of the guys have already offered to rebuild it for me, but I don't have the original switch anymore. May have to order another one.
Have a site where I can take a look at em?
Here,
They have a nice firm clicky feel but you can't hear any click.
1pc Waterproof Momentary OFF-(ON) N/O BOAT Switch,BK33B - eBay (item 120702795017 end time Jun-22-11 05:51:33 PDT)
They have a nice firm clicky feel but you can't hear any click.
1pc Waterproof Momentary OFF-(ON) N/O BOAT Switch,BK33B - eBay (item 120702795017 end time Jun-22-11 05:51:33 PDT)
It would be loose, but it wouldnt fall out. I'm putting in a temporary switch that's easy to take out for now. Held on by a small nut on the outside. Would only have to desolder one spot to remove it. I'm not going to fill the switch housing with silicone this time. Instead, I'm going to see if using the heat shrink tube will solve the leaking problem, then I can use any switch that will fit. Worst case scenario....I will just cut the switch area off, and drill a hole for a 510 connection and mod it to fit all the other pvs I use.
I've thought about that a time or two. Was just afraid that it would be too big to fit. May have to shorten the threads on the tube. Let me know how big they are when you get them in. Might be able to work something out with it. Thanks again, Gummy.
Riddle,
I use them all the time. Just don't have any right now. the hole size is 12mm (1/2" works) the threaded part sticks into the tube about 3/8" and the major OD is 3/4" (Flange around the button)
I use them all the time. Just don't have any right now. the hole size is 12mm (1/2" works) the threaded part sticks into the tube about 3/8" and the major OD is 3/4" (Flange around the button)
Just finished with the other switch I have, and I am at a complete loss. I did my normal routine....solder, check continuity....and after full assembly I'm not getting anything at the coil. Continuity still checks out fine. I'm hoping that the problem now is my batts. Maybe they drained from sitting so long. If not, probably going to break out the cutting wheel and drill.
Check the battery with the multimeter, then check the voltage at the atty connector with the multimeter to verify voltage. It could be somthing as simple and a recessed center pin not making connection.
Dan
I've had something similar happen. For me it was a short between the positive lead and the body somewhere before the coil. All continuity tests will still check out when this happens, but the voltage will bypass the coil.
To prevent this I cover the leads with heat shrink everywhere except where the coil wires connect, where the positive lead s soldered and where the negative lead needs to contact the switch housing.
If you're not using threaded rod for the leads, you can put 1mm x 1mm o-rings around the leads inside the switch hosing passages. This eliminates the need to use silicone in the switch housing to seal the liquid out. It's more durable and reliable than the silicone sealant.
If you decide to use m2 threaded rods for the leads, the heat shrink will fit snugly in the lead passages and no prints or sealant is necessary. I have not had to do anything at all to mine except use it since I installed the threaded rod tweak on my hybrid mini. With the solid coil wire connections, the heat is very consistent and so I am not even getting crusty formations on the coil and mesh.
Hope this helps to get your hybrid working well.
I'm pretty sure he's trying to rebuild a hybrid mini full mod so there is no 510 connector. Please excuse me if I am mistaken.
You are right Lorderos, it's a full rebuild. I was wondering if that was the case, and I think it is....pretty sure it is. After reading your post, I double checked with my tester. I hook the alligator clip to the positive post, hold down the button, and check several places. This time I touched it to the outside of the switch housing and the light came on, which tells me it is shorting out somewhere. I'm gonna tear it back down, and do a complete reassemble. If that doesn't work.....I'm sending it to you...lol
No problem, lol, I like to tinker and seem tom have a knack with this particular mod
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