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Silicone by itself isn't so strong, and might not take the tightening and loosening of the nuts very well. Maybe cover the post in heatshrink (and shrinking it) to make sure it won't conduct and then using JB weld to hold it secure in the hole, if there is room for all that. As a bonus you could still remove the post by unscrewing it from the heatshrink layer.
I too think there is a lot of potential for fail there.
1) If the hole is large enough to fill with something like silicone and then set a screw in it (maybe shrink wrapped like asdaq suggested), there could be structural issues with use.
2) If you set the screw in something permanent like weld or epoxy and it's making contact with the body after it sets then you're toast. Again, maybe shrink wrap would work...
With a hole drilled all the way through, getting some sort of sleeve in (and then maybe out) seems like it would be much more doable.
What about a threaded hole, non-conductive screw with conductive nuts. Then you solder the positive lead to the bottom nut which stays in place (maybe glued on the non-conductive screw). The negative screw would be conductive. something like that?
1) If the hole is large enough to fill with something like silicone and then set a screw in it (maybe shrink wrapped like asdaq suggested), there could be structural issues with use.
2) If you set the screw in something permanent like weld or epoxy and it's making contact with the body after it sets then you're toast. Again, maybe shrink wrap would work...
With a hole drilled all the way through, getting some sort of sleeve in (and then maybe out) seems like it would be much more doable.
What about a threaded hole, non-conductive screw with conductive nuts. Then you solder the positive lead to the bottom nut which stays in place (maybe glued on the non-conductive screw). The negative screw would be conductive. something like that?
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Yes, as Quick mentioned and looking at the plans again, that hole is mighty shallow and leverage is not on your side. It looks like 1/3 of the post sticks in the hole and the hole is 1/3 of the cap. If it's deeper then lateral movement will be minimized and you can narrow your concerns to twisting movements. If the nuts got stiff from heat or something, you really don't want to unscrew the whole post, so maybe just some heatshrink on the bottom tip where there could be possible contact, as the sides you can see when gluing.
I will probably go for the silicone first and if it doesn't hold well enough I will epoxy it in. I think all I would have to do is push it all the way to the bottom and then pull it up just a little. I know JB weld will hold it because that stuff is STRONG. I was planning on having the insulated terminal be used for the kanthal at the higher side so it gets pulled down. Although there will be some lateral force I am guessing so it will probably be pulled towards the mesh if I am using silicone. I have a feeling JB weld will solve that problem. Is JB quick food safe too? I was trying to avoid using anything that would be toxic heating up. A non conductive screw would be awesome but what would I use? I found nylon screws on mc master but they are only rated to 185 degrees F and they are not as small as the stainless ones I have. So the nut won't fit in the tube once assembled. I think JB weld or Silicone are my best bet here. I increased the center tube size to 3/16, it looks much more substantial. I will post the revision later. When I am done with machining these if they work feel free to reproduce my work, just don't sell em. I will see what I can do as far as selling them, I need to pm raidy and ask him if that is ok. I will probably do cost plus 10$ for my time if he approves. They will be sold in assembled condition minus kanthal and mesh.
This is my design for the tube. It was an idea I got from scubabatdan and his top cap. I am hoping this keeps the hole thing together nicely. If not I will have to adjust my drawing again. This should keep the cap from poping off and keep it centered nicely. It isn't clearly depicted in the other drawing I posted.
A little off topic, has anyone tried cleaning clogged mesh with a ultrasonic cleaner? I just picked up one from Harbor Freight yesterday for 30 bucks and it cleans my attys pretty well.
This is my design for the tube. It was an idea I got from scubabatdan and his top cap. I am hoping this keeps the hole thing together nicely. If not I will have to adjust my drawing again. This should keep the cap from poping off and keep it centered nicely. It isn't clearly depicted in the other drawing I posted.
A little off topic, has anyone tried cleaning clogged mesh with a ultrasonic cleaner? I just picked up one from Harbor Freight yesterday for 30 bucks and it cleans my attys pretty well.
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I think it's the sides you're going to have to worry about. If the hole is wide then there is the structural support issue. If it's close then contact with the side while placing the screw in liquid whatever is an issue.
I don't think force from the kanthal will be significant compared to handling the posts while installing/changing kanthal/wick.
Non-conductive screws? ceramic? (I don't know of any). lol, that was design... implementation I didn't get to. I just figured someone would post a link to [get your non-conductive screws here]
I could also use the silicone to insulate, and when it dries and is properly insulated I can JB weld over it for structural support. It is wide enough to allow a small space around the hole thing.
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This looks similar to what I did, but not exactly. For the positive post, I drilled through completely and used a threaded m2 rod. I covered the rod in heatshrink tubing so it was fairly snug in the hole (snug enough to create a seal) leaving about 3/8" at the bottom to work with. I put a stainless steel m2 nut on the bottom and isolated it from the mod body using a nylon washer. I removed the heatshrink on the other end of the hole to make it flush with the body on top. Another nylon washer and ss nut finishes it up. Then 2 more stainless nuts above that so the kanthal mounting point is floating and can be anywhere on the exposed stainless rod. The nylon is sturdy enough to handle some decent torque with no bulging issues and withstands a fair amount of heat.
Nothing is exposed except nylon and ss and the post is completely isolated from the rest of the body leaving you the ability to thread the negative post directly to the body with a ss lock nut to make everything solid and leak free.
Just a thought
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This looks similar to what I did, but not exactly. For the positive post, I drilled through completely and used a threaded m2 rod. I covered the rod in heatshrink tubing so it was fairly snug in the hole (snug enough to create a seal) leaving about 3/8" at the bottom to work with. I put a stainless steel m2 nut on the bottom and isolated it from the mod body using a nylon washer. I removed the heatshrink on the other end of the hole to make it flush with the body on top. Another nylon washer and ss nut finishes it up. Then 2 more stainless nuts above that so the kanthal mounting point is floating and can be anywhere on the exposed stainless rod. The nylon is sturdy enough to handle some decent torque with no bulging issues and withstands a fair amount of heat.
Nothing is exposed except nylon and ss and the post is completely isolated from the rest of the body leaving you the ability to thread the negative post directly to the body with a ss lock nut to make everything solid and leak free.
Just a thought
I like that. Lot's of options when the hole is drilled through.
The kanthal isn't going to pull on anything except when you are winding, but when tightening and loosening two small nuts and holding the mod upright there will be stress, and having it as the upper connection increases the leverage.
Lorderos, are you running power through your posts through the whole tank or just anchoring under the top cap? Maybe I forgot a pic??
Lorderos, are you running power through your posts through the whole tank or just anchoring under the top cap? Maybe I forgot a pic??
He's anchoring under the cap? I'd love to see one with threaded rods holding the top cap to the bottom. Using insulation on the positive post as Lorderos described one could use 2 bolts through both caps "clamping" the tube in between the caps. At the bottom of the tank you would need one very short wire from the center of the 510 connector to the pos post at the very bottom of the tank. This would also allow people to make the tube any length they wanted for capacity vs. length of the atty. You could even fix the very top cap (that holds the drip tip) by extending only one of the screws (no worries about insulating up there).
If you want to see that just look at the pics of my hybrid mini in my profile That is how I did it. I have not had a cracked tube or a loose kanthal connection in months now. I am going to post a build video of the process whenever I have to re-do it, but at this rate it's likely going to be a while unless I just want to change the acrylic for the heck of it. maybe I'll just break down and take her apart to get the video done anyway never hurts to clean the tank and it's very easy to put her back together the way I have it done.
That is how I did it. I have not had a cracked tube or a loose kanthal connection in months now. I am going to post a build video of the process whenever I have to re-do it, but at this rate it's likely going to be a while unless I just want to change the acrylic for the heck of it. maybe I'll just break down and take her apart to get the video done anyway never hurts to clean the tank and it's very easy to put her back together the way I have it done.I thought it was quite like Persis' design but using the SS threaded rod all the way through, but now I'm not sure. Quite doable though. Bolting on the mouthpiece (for me it is anyway) seems like extra work to open it up, which I like to do rather often.
Just saw the well hidden pics , real nice work and it looks like it stacks together nice too as you reassemble. Is the short run of wire bolted in too by the switch for easy removal?
Just saw the well hidden pics
, real nice work and it looks like it stacks together nice too as you reassemble. Is the short run of wire bolted in too by the switch for easy removal?
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The top nut you would just spin on barely finger tight (no need to seal). It's just that I don't have a screw on top piece so I can't carry it in my pocket or anything because any leverage on the drip tip will pull off the top cap or at least loosen it to where it's about to fall off. I've lost one top cap already. Just sort of bumped it on something in a crowded bar and who knows where it rolled to
I thought it was quite like Persis' design but using the SS threaded rod all the way through, but now I'm not sure. Quite doable though. Bolting on the mouthpiece (for me it is anyway) seems like extra work to open it up, which I like to do rather often.
Just saw the well hidden pics
Glad you like it!
The wire is actually soldered to the switch lead so there is no need to solder the wire for the battery contact lead. I just push the battery contact lead in, it snaps in place nicely and the pressure of the battery spring keeps it together nice and tight.
The switch is held by the bolts though, the positive lead is attached with a small wire formed around the rod and soldered to the switch. The whole thing comes apart in about a minute
I might take a bunch of pics when I take it apart to clean...one of these days soon. The best part of having it this way is the durability. My mini is very tough now. The only thing that could make it even more durable would veto replace the acrylic tank with lexan.
The top nut you would just spin on barely finger tight (no need to seal). It's just that I don't have a screw on top piece so I can't carry it in my pocket or anything because any leverage on the drip tip will pull off the top cap or at least loosen it to where it's about to fall off. I've lost one top cap already. Just sort of bumped it on something in a crowded bar and who knows where it rolled to
I can carry mine OK, except for the switch at this point. It is too easy to activate. I'll be taking care of that with a touch switch soon
Ok I changed it. With the way my outer tube is set up I have plenty of extra tube past the top cap. The terminals should be about .014" from the mesh allowing for about .008" of clearance between the kanthal and the terminal. I took out the bottom O ring and saved .125" on the design. It is about 1.85" end to end. So probably like 2.35" with a drip tip. Not bad, not great. I hope it works
.Apparently my buddy didn't get my emails... I sent him another so maybe now I can do it there. If not I found a shop with a going rate of 75$ per hour. I hope I don't have to go through them but if I do I think it will be made on a CNC mill. We will see what happens.
Edit: Sorry for the polygonal circle, I forgot to regenerate the image before I printed to jpg.
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I have been wanting to experiment with a small change to the drip tips used in a genisis. So that a small tube built to the tip would pick up the vapor from the coil way down there at the side of the coil. along with a tube inserted into the air hole that would tunnel the incoming air to the other side of the coil rather than just into the top chamber. I may draw it up if you guys don't understand what I mean.
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Ok I changed it. With the way my outer tube is set up I have plenty of extra tube past the top cap. The terminals should be about .014" from the mesh allowing for about .008" of clearance between the kanthal and the terminal. I took out the bottom O ring and saved .125" on the design. It is about 1.85" end to end. So probably like 2.35" with a drip tip. Not bad, not great. I hope it works
Apparently my buddy didn't get my emails... I sent him another so maybe now I can do it there. If not I found a shop with a going rate of 75$ per hour. I hope I don't have to go through them but if I do I think it will be made on a CNC mill. We will see what happens.
Edit: Sorry for the polygonal circle, I forgot to regenerate the image before I printed to jpg.
Ok I have recreated your design in emachineshop and found a few discrepencies.
1. The holes should be deeper than 1/16 of an inch for the bolts, I would recommend atleast .25
2. The gap between the two o-rings is going to be a problem with only 1/16 of an inch between poly tubes. The problem is that the poly tube needs to be beveled on the inside to allow the oring to compress when slid on. If it isnt then it tends to cut or push the oring out of position. I would recommend 1/8 inch gap between the two top o-rings.
3. The bottom does not have any room for a 510 connector to fit in, most 510 connectors require approx .25" to be pressed into. You only have approx 1/8 of an inch of realestate for the connector to go in, remember drills leave a taper so you lose 1/16" if it is drilled. I recommend increaseing the bottom piece after the o-ring to 1/8".
4. If you are putting in 510 connector the hole size on the bottom need to be approx 8.75mm, this leaves you approx .016" wall of material between the bottom o-ring groove and the connector. Very thin wall, not much you can do about it except increase the length of the bottom so the connector stops short of the o-ring groove.
It looks good, I already have a similar version that I am working on that is 1/2" in dia. Not flamming, just trying to help so you dont find out after the part is tooled that you need to redesign it.
Hope this helps,
Dan
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Is this an attempt for warmer vapor? I like warm vapor myself.
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