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No, no kinks. It wicks, just wicks slow, so I get dry hits a lot. My buddy Kyle made a smaller one today and same thing. Slow wicking, glowing coils, and hacking coughs.
Any suggestions would be great.
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Well....
What battery? that kind of looks like an Omega, Li-Ion 18650?
The wick should be rolled pretty snug and should be snug in the hole -- not tight. maybe even slightly loose. Can you get a close up of the wick? side and end?
Does your coil heat up pretty much evenly? or are there a hot spot or two that just heat up glowing hot immediately.
What battery? that kind of looks like an Omega, Li-Ion 18650?
The wick should be rolled pretty snug and should be snug in the hole -- not tight. maybe even slightly loose. Can you get a close up of the wick? side and end?
Does your coil heat up pretty much evenly? or are there a hot spot or two that just heat up glowing hot immediately.
Direct the airflow right onto the coil and tighten the draw slightly. That should get more juice to the coil and help cool down the dry hits. This has been my experience so far anyway 
Ok. The wick is rolled to just about 1.5mm. It moves in the hole pretty easily and I have the center still hollow.
Maybe my air hole is too big? It's about 0.8mm.
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.8mm is still small. And more airflow means more cooling-- too much and it whistles. And is the hole aimed low at the coil?
Have you got 5mm+ of mesh above the coil? This can help act as a reserve for juice and avoid drying out. Also important to know is how many wraps and what resistance you have got there.
Have you got 5mm+ of mesh above the coil? This can help act as a reserve for juice and avoid drying out. Also important to know is how many wraps and what resistance you have got there.
ummm... can't see much in the pics... it looks like your wick is inside some sort of tube
I roll my wicks as tight as I can with my fingers. Almost no hole in the center. There is a tiny hole but it's only because I can't start the roll with mesh any smaller than that. I have rolled looser wicks as well with more of a hole (still smaller than a needle) and they performed about as well. I end up with a roll that's 2 mm diameter. The capilary action takes place on the mesh surface -- surface of each strand that forms the mesh. There is an optimum cell size (mesh number) where capilary action from the strands on each side of the cell is enough that juice "fills" the cell. Too small of a mesh and you aren't wicking as much as you could. Too large of a mesh and you aren't wicking as much as you could. A hole in the center of the roll is just that. You aren't wicking any juice up the hole. A tighter roll/less hole and you've increased the wicking capability of a wick that has the same outside diameter. You're also holding more juice in a given cross section which give you a larger "instant" reservoir. You're not moving enough volume at a rate to worry about returning air to the tank. There is plenty of ways for plenty of air to get into the tank through the wire lead holes, down the side of the wick hole, etc.
In short, I would try a more solidly rolled wick of a larger diameter.
Air hole? lol, mine is about 1.5 mm but I direct inhale (like one would do off a ....). Wick keeps up no problem. What lorderos was talking about is mainly where your air hole is located. If it's up at the top of the chamber the air stream sort of goes into the chamber and straight up the tip/mouthpiece. You get more vapor if the incoming air stream goes straight onto the coil.
by the way, I vape very thick VG juice (motor oil consistency). Contrary to popular belief, I think that wicks better than thinner juice...
I roll my wicks as tight as I can with my fingers. Almost no hole in the center. There is a tiny hole but it's only because I can't start the roll with mesh any smaller than that. I have rolled looser wicks as well with more of a hole (still smaller than a needle) and they performed about as well. I end up with a roll that's 2 mm diameter. The capilary action takes place on the mesh surface -- surface of each strand that forms the mesh. There is an optimum cell size (mesh number) where capilary action from the strands on each side of the cell is enough that juice "fills" the cell. Too small of a mesh and you aren't wicking as much as you could. Too large of a mesh and you aren't wicking as much as you could. A hole in the center of the roll is just that. You aren't wicking any juice up the hole. A tighter roll/less hole and you've increased the wicking capability of a wick that has the same outside diameter. You're also holding more juice in a given cross section which give you a larger "instant" reservoir. You're not moving enough volume at a rate to worry about returning air to the tank. There is plenty of ways for plenty of air to get into the tank through the wire lead holes, down the side of the wick hole, etc.
In short, I would try a more solidly rolled wick of a larger diameter.
Air hole? lol, mine is about 1.5 mm but I direct inhale (like one would do off a ....
). Wick keeps up no problem. What lorderos was talking about is mainly where your air hole is located. If it's up at the top of the chamber the air stream sort of goes into the chamber and straight up the tip/mouthpiece. You get more vapor if the incoming air stream goes straight onto the coil.by the way, I vape very thick VG juice (motor oil consistency). Contrary to popular belief, I think that wicks better than thinner juice...
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1.5?? I thought your's were bigger Quick, I do 1.5 except for 1.3 on the micro-g at 3.7v that slowness is acceptable taking longer drags anyway.
I think my problem was the air hole. I made a new mouthpiece and made the hole as small as I could and still get airflow. This is effectively causing juice to come up the wick when I draw on it(siphoning). No more dry hits now. Thanks for the help. When I change out the wick and coil I'll roll a tighter one. I rolled this one on piece of 22 ga. wire, so it's got a good size hole in the center. I'll also start with 20mm or so width of mesh next time(instead of 14mm).
Thanks again, you've given me some things to think about.
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Thanks again, you've given me some things to think about.
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3 wraps of 36ga nichrome. 2.7ohms. For the record, I'll never use 36ga. again. 32ga. all the way from now on.
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Quick1, I agree 100%. I have never made a wick with an intentional hole. Don't use needle or paper clip, just my fingers and I roll as tight as I can. Also I read some with a tight coil others with a loose coil, I put 7 to 8 wraps of 32 kanthal for 2.2 ohm wrapped snug on wick. One inch of 32 kanthal 1.1 ohm and I get 4 wraps per inch on a 1.5mm wick, don't know how so many get 1.7 ohm with 3 or 4 wraps of 32.
I hear you on going with 32ga. I use 32ga kantha grade a-1. It's tough as nails and allows you to get some really low resistances with 3 - 5 coils. The only drawback is that you have to get the mesh right or with that much heat spread that far you can quickly and easily run the wick dry. Having a tight draw facilitates the siphoning effect you are seeing and will be a big help when you want to chain vape these beasts
Yes he does, I do almost exactly the same thing when I make mesh rolls and coils these days, except that I still do the heat/quench cycles 3-5 times. It may to be necessary, but I enjoy doing it this way
.As he said in his video, it's simple and not all that scientific. Once this is done successfully a few times, you figure out the process that works best for you. Not you specifically, WillB, I mean everyone who uses Genisis mods
.Dang... I'm going to have to go measure? I drilled these a year ago. On one cap I was experimenting and I've got 5 holes in it. On the other cap I've got one larger hole. Both work out to about the same. I can inhale through a drip tip with just a little resistance. That's "inhale" as in draw a deep breath straight into the lungs. Takes about 3 seconds max to take a full, deep breath.
That could be part of your problem right there. I use 32 gauge and 3 wraps (3.75 from power to ground?) for 1.6Ω measured at the 510 connector. but I like it hotter than most.
According to my experiments, these big atomizers need more power to work and yet produce less steam because of their big surface. Condensat collects on the surface, so you lose power. Better to make something miniature. I mean - miniature combustion chamber.
These big atomiizers are much easier to make and maimtain, but work worse. Sorry, it's just my opinion.
These big atomiizers are much easier to make and maimtain, but work worse. Sorry, it's just my opinion.
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I have used the Zenesis and let me tell you there is no loss of vapor just because its bigger. Might be with the things you have tried but your gonna have to exclude the Zenesis PV.
CaminoDiablo, if your experience shows different, no problem. Show please your system. Hope it will be useful.
Zenesis - something special?
Zenesis - something special?
I've found the exact opposite to be true! I built a HUGE version which is 1 1/4" in diameter and it's a fog machine... yes there are condensation issues that need to be addressed, but I have had condensation issues with miniature versions as well, and they are more problematic because of the limited area... they fill with condensation FAST! With the bigger attys, all you have to do is build in a condensate drain back into the tank it solves the issue. Works like a charm.
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