You mean I waved at Jimi and he really wasn't there ??Those were all fakes..Photoshopped in for visual enhancement..
SplitFire Back In Stock - Now With Stainless Ming 510 Drip Tip
- Thread starter dannoman
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Ohhh..Jimi only comes out to play for special venues...He's special, ya know...
Darn it. Where is Wally when I need him? Does he not know I'm working nights now? He is supposed to be up at 1:00am with me....
I cant find his "splitfire modding post"...
I'm too simple minded to mod this myself....
I cant find his "splitfire modding post"...
I'm too simple minded to mod this myself....
is this the one you were looking for?
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...eads-tubes-various-colors-98.html#post8697462
just in case anybody else is looking for help with these..........when I posted the splitfire in the GV encyclopedia I linked to the old discussion thread
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yiddle, your resourcefulness never ceases to amaze me..That's it !!!
Also, in case anybody is trying to adjust the center post depth by trying to unscrew or screw it. Don't bother, it's simply pressed in. You just push or pull on it. With the slot in it, your tempted to try and do some screwing.
Ok, this is where Monkey Momma chimes in....
Keeping it fresh Wally:
"I make the slots in the coil cups wider and deeper with a Dremel cutting wheel. No need for the narrow slots on this style. When I am done the coil is basically just lying there unrestricted. And since the slot is deeper also it is very close to the air inlet. If you go too deep the coil will touch the post and you will short. I also opened up the holes a touch on the mounting plate as much as I could without cutting into the threads and chamfered the holes a touch with a small center drill. Recoiled with 3mm silica wick. With the wider slot the wicks flow very good.
I have three more waiting to be butchered. If I remember I'll take notes and pictures when I do them. Are they that much better? I think so. Although they sure do suck up the juice now."
Also, in case anybody is trying to adjust the center post depth by trying to unscrew or screw it. Don't bother, it's simply pressed in. You just push or pull on it. With the slot in it, your tempted to try and do some screwing.
Ok, this is where Monkey Momma chimes in....
Keeping it fresh Wally:
"I make the slots in the coil cups wider and deeper with a Dremel cutting wheel. No need for the narrow slots on this style. When I am done the coil is basically just lying there unrestricted. And since the slot is deeper also it is very close to the air inlet. If you go too deep the coil will touch the post and you will short. I also opened up the holes a touch on the mounting plate as much as I could without cutting into the threads and chamfered the holes a touch with a small center drill. Recoiled with 3mm silica wick. With the wider slot the wicks flow very good.
I have three more waiting to be butchered. If I remember I'll take notes and pictures when I do them. Are they that much better? I think so. Although they sure do suck up the juice now."
I'm going to carve mine up this weekend. The slots do aid when screwing that coil head down though, so I must plan accordingly..
Looking at this closer, I'm not going to wack the top of the slots off at all, just deepen them a little. In fact, if I were TempestTek, I would have taken a cue from Vision's Stardust, and made the airtube coming off of the coil head, a tad bit longer and incorporated a silicon seal so it mates up with the tank top. By sealing the air tube against it, the vapor does not have a chance to escape while taking a draw. The only way I can achieve this now, would be to shorten the tank body a few mm, and increase the thread depth the same. I may try and rape some seals from something else, to try...
A little chamfering on the wick holes, both topside and underside, is defiantly in order..
Looking at this closer, I'm not going to wack the top of the slots off at all, just deepen them a little. In fact, if I were TempestTek, I would have taken a cue from Vision's Stardust, and made the airtube coming off of the coil head, a tad bit longer and incorporated a silicon seal so it mates up with the tank top. By sealing the air tube against it, the vapor does not have a chance to escape while taking a draw. The only way I can achieve this now, would be to shorten the tank body a few mm, and increase the thread depth the same. I may try and rape some seals from something else, to try...
A little chamfering on the wick holes, both topside and underside, is defiantly in order..
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we're all here here trying to help each other out 
I have not had a chance to do another yet Zip. But just take a look at the Drunker or X6 tank heads. Both of those have wide slots and get the coil closer to the air hole. That's basically all I mimicked besides opening up the wick holes as much as I could without getting into the threading. I was so hoping that the ceramic cup drunker heads would work in the Splitfire but they are much bigger in diameter.
For sure smooth out the cup edges after grinding. I'm getting pretty tired of wicks getting chopped up from sharp slots on a variety of different heads including the vivi's.
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