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Had to use a 9/64" bit to countersink the fuse a hair
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
There you go! Love it! "give a man a fish, teach a man to order bacon on his burger".. . . whatever. Nice job, Orangutan!
I will continue to post the following .. .. as I was about to do. Although . .. . the timing . . .. oh, well, such is life . . .. . .
As I revamp my REOs for my new flat buttontops, I need to adjust the size of my fuse inserts. Rather than fiddle with the old ones, I decided to make some nice new ones. These have the advantage of my knowing exactly what I'm after before I start. (the previous were experimental, and I discovered fabrication issues as I went along.)
Here's my specs, in case anyone wants to build the only fuse mod deemed "safe" by the "deemers".
And here's my finished version.
HEY, I just realized, my list doesn't include the following. I cut little sections out of 8-32 brass machine screws for this (and sawed cute little driver slots and everything). I predrilled with 9/64" bit; and yes . . . . I even tapped the screw holes with an 8-32 tap. The only reason the holes go all the way through, is cause I needed room for the tip of the tap. Electrically, I'm sure they're fine (the holes); but I taped them to keep dust and moisture out.
KAY . . .. . . here ya go.
Materials are Richlite scraps and 2 layers of faux credit card mailer plastic (superglued into the unused slot portion)
I will continue to post the following .. .. as I was about to do. Although . .. . the timing . . .. oh, well, such is life . . .. . .
As I revamp my REOs for my new flat buttontops, I need to adjust the size of my fuse inserts. Rather than fiddle with the old ones, I decided to make some nice new ones. These have the advantage of my knowing exactly what I'm after before I start. (the previous were experimental, and I discovered fabrication issues as I went along.)
Here's my specs, in case anyone wants to build the only fuse mod deemed "safe" by the "deemers".
And here's my finished version.
HEY, I just realized, my list doesn't include the following. I cut little sections out of 8-32 brass machine screws for this (and sawed cute little driver slots and everything). I predrilled with 9/64" bit; and yes . . . . I even tapped the screw holes with an 8-32 tap. The only reason the holes go all the way through, is cause I needed room for the tip of the tap. Electrically, I'm sure they're fine (the holes); but I taped them to keep dust and moisture out.
KAY . . .. . . here ya go.
Materials are Richlite scraps and 2 layers of faux credit card mailer plastic (superglued into the unused slot portion)
Ok, so with the brassed pin, my horrible first edition ptfe block, and a 1.1ohm R41 xobedriver
Initial battery charge 4.15v yielded 3.8v under load.
Had to sidestep some build mistakes, so I think it will improve, but not upset with the results!
Vapes like it's a .6-.7ish coil
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
Initial battery charge 4.15v yielded 3.8v under load.
Had to sidestep some build mistakes, so I think it will improve, but not upset with the results!
Vapes like it's a .6-.7ish coil
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
Dude, that PTFE fuse holder is 100% Gold Star McGuyver! You made that with nothing but a spoon, a can of hairspray and the lint from your navel! You rocked it!
p.s. I made mine with a drill press, a 12" disc sander, a chopsaw, a 14" bandsaw w/ fence, a tap and die set, Brad point bit set, scribe, miniature hacksaw, specialty files, etc. . . . .. . . . so. . . .. hat's off to you, Ape.
p.s. I made mine with a drill press, a 12" disc sander, a chopsaw, a 14" bandsaw w/ fence, a tap and die set, Brad point bit set, scribe, miniature hacksaw, specialty files, etc. . . . .. . . . so. . . .. hat's off to you, Ape.
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I replaced my spring with a solid brass contact, and used an electronic module to protect it instead of a fuse 
I replaced my spring with a solid brass contact, and used an electronic module to protect it instead of a fuse
Very innovative
You wouldn't happen to have a pic w/ the module in it and it firing would you?
I've been using it, works great, here's a few more shots, I'll put up it's own thread when I button it up, don't mean to crap all over this thread
This sort of reminds me of a mod I did a while back using high wattage:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/303291-not-sure-what-expect-but-should-awesome.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/303291-not-sure-what-expect-but-should-awesome.html
I've been using it, works great, here's a few more shots, I'll put up it's own thread when I button it up, don't mean to crap all over this thread
"crap all over this thread"? . .. . no, sir! This is all about different ways to screw the pooch! Ideas and their execution is the point.
Speaking of pooch screwing, I'm doing mine @ 36 watts . . . . . .. what does that "20.0W" on your gizmo mean?
btw: really, really sweet mod, turbocad!
36 watts measured how? if you are assuming 36 watts just by doing the math then you may be surprised to know that what you think is 36 watts can in reality actually be quite a bit less. just doing the math calculating voltage of a fully charged battery doesn't take into account voltage drop of the mod and voltage drop of the battery as it discharges too, so a lot of times guys who think there vaping at 36 watts may be very surprised to find out that what they thought was 36 watts winds up being closer to maybe 25 watts in the real world once these losses come into play, and goes down from there as the battery discharges. the losses become greater the higher you go, so if by math alone you arrive at 18 watts you may actually be hitting 14 or 15, but at 36 the losses are usually quite a bit higher.
the dna20 is limited to 20 watts, but the dna has very low voltage drop and this is a lot closer to delivering an actual 20 watts real world, and the good part is that it will maintain this level of delivery all through the batteries usable capacity, so as an example, right now I'm running a .8 ohm coil at ~4.1v regulated, so it's equal to a .8 ohm coil with a just off the charger battery in a high end mod with very little voltage drop, but, unlike the high end mod that is going to slowly go down and down in power as the battery is used up, this one instead will maintain this level of power delivery throughout almost the whole batteries capacity, so you get the vape of a high end mod with very low voltage drop with .8 ohm coil on a freshly charged battery even as the battery depletes, none of that stronger vape right of the charger and then dropping a bit, and then having to swap out half dead batteries to regain a strong vape, it's regulated to give you that same fresh off the charger vape throughout the whole cycle, from fully charged to almost dead
so in reality my 20watt setting may only be at 80-85% the real world power level potential you may achieve with a fresh battery, but will maintain this throughout it's whole batteries cycle where yours will slowly drop down to, and then eventually below the level this mod can deliver by the time your battery drops below half way. numbers and watts all sound great on paper but real world delivery can deviate quite a bit from just what the math alone shows you, the dna 20 is rock solid stable regulated, yeah only 20 watts but that's about all a regulated mod can deliver at this time and believe me, it's not as far below where you are at as you may think. this mod has 2 tight solid brass contacts directly to the battery and the electronic switch inside is more efficient than even most of the highest end mods, don't let that 20 watts thing fool ya, this thing hits hard all the way from a fully charged to almost dead battery and in doing so really extends the usable range between charges, so a 15-20% less power potential at the very peak isn't so much of a bad tradeoff considering what it does bring to the equation overall.
the dna20 is limited to 20 watts, but the dna has very low voltage drop and this is a lot closer to delivering an actual 20 watts real world, and the good part is that it will maintain this level of delivery all through the batteries usable capacity, so as an example, right now I'm running a .8 ohm coil at ~4.1v regulated, so it's equal to a .8 ohm coil with a just off the charger battery in a high end mod with very little voltage drop, but, unlike the high end mod that is going to slowly go down and down in power as the battery is used up, this one instead will maintain this level of power delivery throughout almost the whole batteries capacity, so you get the vape of a high end mod with very low voltage drop with .8 ohm coil on a freshly charged battery even as the battery depletes, none of that stronger vape right of the charger and then dropping a bit, and then having to swap out half dead batteries to regain a strong vape, it's regulated to give you that same fresh off the charger vape throughout the whole cycle, from fully charged to almost dead
so in reality my 20watt setting may only be at 80-85% the real world power level potential you may achieve with a fresh battery, but will maintain this throughout it's whole batteries cycle where yours will slowly drop down to, and then eventually below the level this mod can deliver by the time your battery drops below half way. numbers and watts all sound great on paper but real world delivery can deviate quite a bit from just what the math alone shows you, the dna 20 is rock solid stable regulated, yeah only 20 watts but that's about all a regulated mod can deliver at this time and believe me, it's not as far below where you are at as you may think. this mod has 2 tight solid brass contacts directly to the battery and the electronic switch inside is more efficient than even most of the highest end mods, don't let that 20 watts thing fool ya, this thing hits hard all the way from a fully charged to almost dead battery and in doing so really extends the usable range between charges, so a 15-20% less power potential at the very peak isn't so much of a bad tradeoff considering what it does bring to the equation overall.
I use a DNA20 box mod... at anywhere from 10 to 16w ... with strictly sub ohms coil atomizers. It has a pass thru charger function and thank goodness because I can't vape it for more than say 45 min. and the 18650 IMR batt inside is done and needing recharge.
hmm; would i be better off with a P batt?
anyway, to keep it w/in the OP, just saying I don't get the batt time using sub ohms/ dna20 that I'd need otherwise...
hmm; would i be better off with a P batt?
anyway, to keep it w/in the OP, just saying I don't get the batt time using sub ohms/ dna20 that I'd need otherwise...
Real watts or not, a DNA20 extension to a Reo? And a bad ..., James Bond-sharp looking one at that? Winner.
Oh, I didn't mean like, "thread police". I meant to say this is the thread where I just modded my REO and, thus-wise, I mean 36 Watts when I say 36 Watts. Talk about whatever. My neighbor's dog is like 13 yrs old, and he and she found each other when he used to go into Harlem to buy his schmack.
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