SPRING? . . . . .. what spring?

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ukeman

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Oh, I didn't mean like, "thread police". I meant to say this is thread where I just modded my REO and, thus-wise, I mean 36 Watts when I say 36 Watts. Talk about whatever. My neighbor's dog is like 13 yrs old, and he and she found each other when he used to go into Harlem to buy his schmack.
New Reo Grands will be sold with a new sub ohms pos pin and spring... standard procedure. just sayin.
Rob did say at least a month away.
Now to find the best spot to lurk from in the Reo sub forum.
 

ukeman

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too many Reo's out there to retro... DIY kits galore, but yes he's thinking about fitting them in all new (Grands at least). Some say it will give better batt life/protection even if not using sub ohms
You guys think Rob will be selling the kit separately as an upgrade package? Or would we have to send in our mods? Or worse buying an entirely new one?
 

ukeman

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hey guys. the fact that i've had to replace my standard spring have anything to do with sub ohms?

I use AW IMR 18650's (lengths vary)... so is it the pressure from the batts or does the .6 to .8 OHms have an effect on the spring?

I was limping along on a weak spring this last week; intermittent misfires.
It's about 6 months since i replaced it... and just got 2 new springs in...ahh relief.
 

SeaNap

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Turbo, That is one sexy lookin REO! I know it may be slim-to-none, but are you seeing any voltage discrepancy between what is displayed and what you see across the resistor? When are they coming out with a DNA 40Watt :) ?

I will admit, back when I was on my ego (1 month ago) I heard rumors of people that would vape more than 10Watts, and I thought that they MUST be insane, I just couldnt figure out how that owuld be enjoyable, i mean I was doing just fine pushing 7watts... Then I moved to REOville, my eyes have been open, after two full days of vaping at 21.6Watts, I am in heaven, I still think that 36watts is nuts but now I know that it actually can be enjoyed.

I am really curious as to why Rob chose to use a different type of spring, as opposed to a fuse solution. I would be Very interested in seeing the "trip" curves of the new springs.
 

MamaTried

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hey guys. the fact that i've had to replace my standard spring have anything to do with sub ohms?

I use AW IMR 18650's (lengths vary)... so is it the pressure from the batts or does the .6 to .8 OHms have an effect on the spring?

I was limping along on a weak spring this last week; intermittent misfires.
It's about 6 months since i replaced it... and just got 2 new springs in...ahh relief.

at my age, my battery's age, intermittent misfires ain't all that bad...
 

turbocad6

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ha, I don't doubt your at 36 watts if you say you really are and you metered it too, some people just look at a chart though and think that if the chart says 40 watts then there doing 40 watts but they don't take all the drops and losses into account, that's why I asked where you are getting that number from. I haven't taken any readings of the dna in use yet, only vaped with it a little bit so far, curious to see what kinds of numbers it gets


I do wish the dna went up to at least 30 watts, but a solid 20 watts isn't too bad really I guess, most other vv and vw stuff goes to only 15 watts, I've got one mod that only goes to 15 watts and another to just 11 (evic) so I'm ok with the 20 watts on this one really, I do want to get another reo and keep it mechanical but add all high grade guts and maybe use a magnetic switch setup. I've got a question, would a spring from a high end mod be a good replacement for the reo spring instead of a fuse? stuff like my poldiac for example has a silver plated brass spring, wouldn't that eliminate voltage drop and still protect? I don't know the limitations of a spring like that though, would it collapse too at high watts?


I used that reo yesterday and vaped with it for a while and it was good but not fully assembled and sealed up yet. tonight I tried to finish buttoning it up and I wasn't really liking the way the internal knob was fitting and I want to keep it waterproof too so I went back to thinking about external buttons again, then I decided to add a little bit more space so I can add up and down buttons to the face and also add an internal charging module to charge from usb. I'm thinking that I can make a dock in the car and a dock on my desk and a dock for the home nightstand and just dock it like a cell phone here and there. usb doesn't charge very fast but if I dock it here and there throughout the day it should extend battery life during the day too I think, a little extra juice added here and there can't hurt I guess, maybe I can avoid having to swap out batteries so much. I do love the jewelry type look of a finely crafted high end mod so I decided to go with naval brass as the insert on this thing, also want to make a nice brass trigger button for it now too :) I also shaved most of the drip well off so I can use any atty I want on it. hope to finish this thing tomorrow, winded up being a lot of work and I haven't been able to really use it most of the week. I like the james bond reference, works for me, def going for the high end look with it :)



 

SeaNap

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I've got a question, would a spring from a high end mod be a good replacement for the reo spring instead of a fuse? stuff like my poldiac for example has a silver plated brass spring, wouldn't that eliminate voltage drop and still protect? I don't know the limitations of a spring like that though, would it collapse too at high watts?

Thats a very good question. With out seeing any technical specs, or data sheets, on the spring it is hard to say for sure. Now this spring from a high end mod, is it used as the only means of protection, or is there circuitry that protects it from shorts? We were looking up the data sheets on all different types of fuses, and we found that the 15A had almost half the resistance as the 10A car fuse, and when looking at the trip curves the 15A fuse took more current per sec to trip. So by nature having a lower resistance will mean a longer trip time, weather or not the longer time will still save the battery I have no idea with out some hard data. But thanks to pdib sacrificing some 10A and 15A fuses, we learned that just 5A was a difference between an almost instant blow with the 10A to a 1.3sec blow with the 15A. Thats why I'm so curious about Robs new spring.
 

UKPaul

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ha, I don't doubt your at 36 watts if you say you really are and you metered it too, some people just look at a chart though and think that if the chart says 40 watts then there doing 40 watts but they don't take all the drops and losses into account, that's why I asked where you are getting that number from. I haven't taken any readings of the dna in use yet, only vaped with it a little bit so far, curious to see what kinds of numbers it gets


I do wish the dna went up to at least 30 watts, but a solid 20 watts isn't too bad really I guess, most other vv and vw stuff goes to only 15 watts, I've got one mod that only goes to 15 watts and another to just 11 (evic) so I'm ok with the 20 watts on this one really, I do want to get another reo and keep it mechanical but add all high grade guts and maybe use a magnetic switch setup. I've got a question, would a spring from a high end mod be a good replacement for the reo spring instead of a fuse? stuff like my poldiac for example has a silver plated brass spring, wouldn't that eliminate voltage drop and still protect? I don't know the limitations of a spring like that though, would it collapse too at high watts?


I used that reo yesterday and vaped with it for a while and it was good but not fully assembled and sealed up yet. tonight I tried to finish buttoning it up and I wasn't really liking the way the internal knob was fitting and I want to keep it waterproof too so I went back to thinking about external buttons again, then I decided to add a little bit more space so I can add up and down buttons to the face and also add an internal charging module to charge from usb. I'm thinking that I can make a dock in the car and a dock on my desk and a dock for the home nightstand and just dock it like a cell phone here and there. usb doesn't charge very fast but if I dock it here and there throughout the day it should extend battery life during the day too I think, a little extra juice added here and there can't hurt I guess, maybe I can avoid having to swap out batteries so much. I do love the jewelry type look of a finely crafted high end mod so I decided to go with naval brass as the insert on this thing, also want to make a nice brass trigger button for it now too :) I also shaved most of the drip well off so I can use any atty I want on it. hope to finish this thing tomorrow, winded up being a lot of work and I haven't been able to really use it most of the week. I like the james bond reference, works for me, def going for the high end look with it :)




That is one cool looking piece of kit.

Is it me or does the door not go to the bottom of the reo ?
 

pdib

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Turbocad, it's looking beautiful! I would never be able to get one (were they production units); because, as a rule, first thing I do when I get a new REO, is throw it in the dirt and pee on it. I might fry the chip! You should definitely look into these batteries . . . (samsung INR1865020-R) .. . if you're looking for longer use time and very good performance (.04Ω internal resistance). I'm still on the first cycle of my new ones. 2nd battery (day two) gave me ~18hrs (26hrs - 8hrs sleep). With my V-drop reductions, I ended up vaping it down to 3.61V before noticing a drop off (other than the one after the initial 5 toot wallup).

As to springs. I will very soon be testing a super sweet spring and pin (- & +) setup, and we shall know! ;)













(pssssst, beryllium copper)
 

Kanj.nguyen

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ha, I don't doubt your at 36 watts if you say you really are and you metered it too, some people just look at a chart though and think that if the chart says 40 watts then there doing 40 watts but they don't take all the drops and losses into account, that's why I asked where you are getting that number from. I haven't taken any readings of the dna in use yet, only vaped with it a little bit so far, curious to see what kinds of numbers it gets


I do wish the dna went up to at least 30 watts, but a solid 20 watts isn't too bad really I guess, most other vv and vw stuff goes to only 15 watts, I've got one mod that only goes to 15 watts and another to just 11 (evic) so I'm ok with the 20 watts on this one really, I do want to get another reo and keep it mechanical but add all high grade guts and maybe use a magnetic switch setup. I've got a question, would a spring from a high end mod be a good replacement for the reo spring instead of a fuse? stuff like my poldiac for example has a silver plated brass spring, wouldn't that eliminate voltage drop and still protect? I don't know the limitations of a spring like that though, would it collapse too at high watts?


I used that reo yesterday and vaped with it for a while and it was good but not fully assembled and sealed up yet. tonight I tried to finish buttoning it up and I wasn't really liking the way the internal knob was fitting and I want to keep it waterproof too so I went back to thinking about external buttons again, then I decided to add a little bit more space so I can add up and down buttons to the face and also add an internal charging module to charge from usb. I'm thinking that I can make a dock in the car and a dock on my desk and a dock for the home nightstand and just dock it like a cell phone here and there. usb doesn't charge very fast but if I dock it here and there throughout the day it should extend battery life during the day too I think, a little extra juice added here and there can't hurt I guess, maybe I can avoid having to swap out batteries so much. I do love the jewelry type look of a finely crafted high end mod so I decided to go with naval brass as the insert on this thing, also want to make a nice brass trigger button for it now too :) I also shaved most of the drip well off so I can use any atty I want on it. hope to finish this thing tomorrow, winded up being a lot of work and I haven't been able to really use it most of the week. I like the james bond reference, works for me, def going for the high end look with it :)




That rig looks like it belongs inside a Bond aston martin or on the Batmans utility belt. Sweet lookin' piece sir; you got skills.
 

turbocad6

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ha, thanks kanj and thanks pdib, I sometimes get carried away when it comes to custom stuff and go off the deep end, you should see my car projects :blush: past few months I've been on a serious bender trying to find the perfect vape machine, I've bought german mods, greek mods, italian mods and everything inbetween, all kinds of crap but nothing really felt 100%. I decided to build my own bottom feeder from scratch but haven't really had the time and really wanted something great that would hold me over until I get around to really building my vision of what I ultimately want, but I think this one will come close to really doing it for me until I build my own. I will make it waterproof but no, I won't pee on it even though you tell me that's the thing to do here :) this one will still be waterproof and durable enough to kick the crap out of it and trust me, I will be kicking the crap out of it at work anyway, but just because it'll see some abuse don't mean it can't look nice doing it :)

at first I really didn't like the look of the reo but this changes the look quite a bit, from a utilitarian roughly finished box to something that looks a bit more polished and high end. one good thing is the way I built this even if it gets abused I can just sand it down a little and polish it up again, the whole bottom electronics module will be sealed up and this thing should last me years, when the dna30 or dna40 comes out hopefully I'll be able to retrofit that inside this thing and upgrade it too if it's not much larger. the bottom cap is 316ss and marine grade brass, should be more durable than even the main reo body, so this should be as durable as a reo should be. actually the aluminum doesn't hold up too well being polished, it's so soft that it scratches pretty easily, i might leave the aluminum main body as a brushed finish. I did go a little nuts with this thing, didn't set out to do that, just one thing lead to another, then another, and now I'm bent on making this into a finely crafted high end hand made mod. now I need another reo to play with too though, really want to build a full mech with high end low loss guts for the next one, I wanna try stuff like your 36 watt build :)

I think I may use my poldiac spring in this one, think I may have a spare. since it's limited to 20 watts anyway that should be fine here I think. i really want to try and complete this thing tonight, all week without using the reo is torture, especially since I only got to use it for like the first day I had it before I tore it apart for this :) too many hours into this thing, gotta be the most expensive reo ever at this point :blush:
 
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