Springiness of SS and Ti

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Hoggy

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Aug 6, 2013
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WI, USA
Hi,

I can't seem to find the right search terms for this..

But is there any way to reduce the springiness of SS an Ti wires?

I first got 316L around spools, which weren't springy at all, but then I got some 304 that's not on a spool (with more 500-ft winds on the way) and have just got around to trying it.. And it's so springy, it's almost unusable.

For the wire not on plastic spools, might it be possible to put it in the oven to reduce its springiness? With massive quantities coming, I'd rather do it all at once, replacing the plastic 'bands' holding it together with wire. Besides that, my lighter (a Zippo BLU) is starting to act up. I know I could send it in, but don't really want to go through with all that at this time.

And then what could be done about the Ti wire on a plastic spool? That stuff really is completely unworkable.. But I read that torching it is a no-no.

Thanks.
 

Hoggy

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Aug 6, 2013
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WI, USA
Yeah, I'll make sure a listing says 'annealed' in the future. (Well, WAY in the future considering all the wire I've been getting lately - including 1000ft of 316 SS that was already annealed :) I found the 304 at such low prices though, that I couldn't pass it up. I guess one gets what they pay for.. However, the Ti came from a vape shop (Vape Supply) via Ebay, which is what's puzzling about that not coming pre-annealed.

And, yeah... I was afraid I'd have to torch it before use rather than some mass-treatment. Looks like I'll have to send my Zippo Blu torch-lighter in for repair, after all. Or maybe finally get a decent true butane torch from fasttech. Or I'm also thinking of modifying an ancient & now-deprecated rda for easy wire insertion and firing a piece on an old now-unused Vamo. (Just ordered a cheap center punch for drilling post holes.)
OR.. Just do all three! :)
 

DangVape

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Jul 9, 2015
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Montreal, QC, Canada
I just started using 316L SS, First couple of build were very difficult to setup since I did twisted wire and it's super springy very hard to property install and keep them tight without the end product opening up and getting all skewed.

Now after the twisting I micro torch burn them. Hold a twisted wire strait vertically with plier then micro torch burn till orange glow from top to bottom. Let it cool now it's much much much easier to work with.
 

Hoggy

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 6, 2013
394
1,077
WI, USA
Now after the twisting I micro torch burn them. Hold a twisted wire strait vertically with plier then micro torch burn till orange glow from top to bottom. Let it cool now it's much much much easier to work with.

Hmm.. I hadn't thought of torching it vertically - would solve the problem of it bending, and do it more quickly. I thought that SS shouldn't be heavily overheated.. Wouldn't the bottom become overheated past it's 'safe' level? I'd imagine that would be dangerous with Ti though..

I'm starting to do twisting as well, but more with a higher-resistance kanthal - to use up my 'warehouse' of kanthal, and hopefully get a bit of clapton-esque action going while retaining TC benefits. .... Or mixing kanthal with a wire or 2 of 34ga nickel-200 to strengthen it, which I stupidly got 500 feet of before finding out it was really hard to work with that small of a nickel gauge (steam engine numbers looked ok). :facepalm:

... Geez, do you think I might have a hoarding problem?!? I also saw a good deal on either 500 or 1000 feet of Ni-200 28-gauge that I kinda want to find again. But at least I know first-hand that 28ga Ni-200 isn't that bad to work with - I actually found it kinda nice in a few builds I've tried with it so far, straight 1-strand Ni-28g.

Nah, I don't have a hoarding problem. <hides closet stuffed with wire>

Now if only I could think of uses for the ~160ft of silica I bought from Fasttech, before discovering Rayon - in a 3lb box. :blink:
 
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