Squape Reloaded Clone

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cindycated

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I edited to put in the RIGHT link: X5 Pcs per Bid M2 6 thru M3 Slotted Cheese Head Machine Screw Zinc Metric | eBay
Too many windows open for the same thing.:laugh:
Wait, this is the one from Sacramento, right? :lol:
lol... true enough. I have 50 on the way. Of course, if they don't work, that doesn't do any of us any good. I should have them on Thursday or Friday. The ones you linked to look pretty good but they are ePacket from China so it'll be a bit before you see them.
 

roxynoodle

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However, after playing with it more, this is what I think:

1. The threads in the base for the 510 pin are poorly machined.

2. The pin is about 1mm too short.

Combine these 2 problems and the pin moves around too much, causing shorts and rising resistances. I don't think there is a fix that will keep it working correctly all the time. Really, we need new decks and new pins. I think the SqR requires high quality machining, which is undoubtedly present in the authentic, but not for most of the clones.

Cindy, even if you think yours is fixed, I would be very wary of putting this tank on a mech at any time. Now that's me, and you may feel differently :)
 

whtfang

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Hi Roxy:

I agree. I received my 2nd Squape R clone from FT yesterday. This one took more fiddling around than the one that I received from them a few days ago. Had one heck of a time getting those gaskets in the tank. At first I thought that everything was OK with my 510 pin (after I put in an extra small rubber grommet) but seems like the ohms change on their own. Must be Chuckie doing it!!

I don't trust either one of my FT clones to be used on a mech mod. I've been vaping them on a couple of my Vamo's & constantly checking the resistance. Sometimes the ohms jump from 1.6 to 1.8 or 1.9. I already had it jump to 2.1, but I tightened the Squape R a bit more on my Vamo & it went back to 1.6.

Would be a great atomizer if the 510 pin was better. This is not an atomizer that you can just take out of the box, put a build on & vape.

However, after playing with it more, this is what I think:

1. The threads in the base for the 510 pin are poorly machined.

2. The pin is about 1mm too short.

Combine these 2 problems and the pin moves around too much, causing shorts and rising resistances. I don't think there is a fix that will keep it working correctly all the time. Really, we need new decks and new pins. I think the SqR requires high quality machining, which is undoubtedly present in the authentic, but not for most of the clones.

Cindy, even if you think yours is fixed, I would be very wary of putting this tank on a mech at any time. Now that's me, and you may feel differently :)
 

cindycated

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However, after playing with it more, this is what I think:

1. The threads in the base for the 510 pin are poorly machined.

2. The pin is about 1mm too short.

Combine these 2 problems and the pin moves around too much, causing shorts and rising resistances. I don't think there is a fix that will keep it working correctly all the time. Really, we need new decks and new pins. I think the SqR requires high quality machining, which is undoubtedly present in the authentic, but not for most of the clones.

Cindy, even if you think yours is fixed, I would be very wary of putting this tank on a mech at any time. Now that's me, and you may feel differently :)

Yeah, I'm leaning more and more toward sending it back - there are a lot of other things I'd rather have now. But I have to try it at least once, even if just to shoot the damn photos for the ticket. :laugh: Still gathering parts...
 

Marc411

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I think the absence of a good rigid insulator is part of the problem also. The 510 pin floats to much with the O-rings and can pull through O-rings if it's not handled perfectly.

Mine worked today and just stopped. I tossed it on my desk when I got home in disgust and just picked it up again. Yes I am a stupid man. I should listen to a very wise woman and just trash the damn thing.

But I did notice the head of the pin was about 3/4 of the way through the first o-ring. It needs a solid stopper so I am trying to find some rigid insulators.

Again stupid man! When the tank works the flavor is really good so I keep trying.
 

inswva

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Inswva, I tried a PT2 insulator last nightit compresses because it is still a soft rubber. I found these but at $4.99 and at the rate I'm buying parts I will slowly creep up to the price of the authentic.

Patriot 510 Insulator

Looking for more but I like these but the opening looks a bit large.

Those look promising... are they rigid?

Did you try the PT2 insulator with the OEM pin? I think a bigger screw head could compress the fat end of the BVC insulator against the bottom of the 510 connector rather than pushing it into the connector. /shrug
 

inswva

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Fatdaddy Vapes has small Delrin blanks. Probably be easier to work with.

V0NziJy.png
 

cindycated

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We need a plastic piece of insulator we can mill down and drill ourselves. Does anyone sell solid blocks of it?

haha maybe if we're really, really nice to Drifter...:laugh:

We need something in delrin or teflon (rigid), that can slide inside the 4mm hole, and with a lip so it can sit on the edge of the connector. That's why I was thinking of the one from avidvapers (just don't use the pin). But the lip's a little thick, so it would have to get sanded down to a little thinner.
 
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cindycated

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Fatdaddy Vapes has small Delrin blanks. Probably be easier to work with.

V0NziJy.png
The 4mm would probably work, since it's long enough to run all the way up to the plate. Then you wouldn't have to deal with creating a lip. You'd just have to widen the bore to 3mm+. It would be really thin. Maybe just rethink the heat shrink tubing.
 
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