Some time this month I may attempt my first single-coil build to use solely in TC mode. But I don't know how to start apply Ohm's Law to a coil build used for TC mode. I don't even know which gauge wire to choose.
SS Coil Build For Sub Ohm in TC Mode
- Thread starter Herrick
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I use temp control exclusively. My set up is in the signiture area below. I do mouth to lung, not looking for big clouds. I care about nic, throat hit, and texture. 28 guage is the place to start. You can use an onllne calculator to figure out how to wrap the coil to get to the resistance you want. Coil wrapping I build 1.3-1.4 ohm single coils. The max resistance allowed by most TC mods is 1.5 ohm. Resistance (ohm value) go down if you are using multiple coils otherwise I believe higher ohms turns watts into heat more efficiently.
I finally did a SS fused clapton with 2-28ga wrapped with 40ga wow!!!, it will be hard to get me off this coil. Seven wraps around a 2.5mm comes out about 0.53Ω
I found a good chart at advancedvapesupply.com also they have youtube videos and other info to help you out
Well just thought I'd update this thread. My first coil build was a failure. The coil itself seemed to come out ok but I got burnt cotton taste every time. Can't post any pictures now because I'm at work.
Maybe it wasn't so much the Coil but a Problem with the Wicking?
Happy Holidays.
Now that I think about it, the coil wasn't glowing evenly. In fact, the only part that glowed was one of the ends that was connected to the one of the post holes.
I put enough cotton through the coil where it slid through easily but not too easily. I put a generous amount of juice on it but I still got the burnt taste. When I pulled the old cotton out, the middle part that was in the coil wasn't nearly as saturated with juice as the rest of the cotton. What if I put the juice on the middle part of the cotton before I actually put it through the coil? Do you think that would help?
One more hour of work, then I can go home and try again!
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That sounds like a Classic "Hot Legs". And not the Good Kind.
Make sure you coils Screws are Snug. But Not so Tight that they might Sever the Coil Wire. And "Pring-ing" the Coil with the Tip of a Small Blue Screwdriver can Help.
You'll get it. Just takes a Few Tries sometimes.
What's pringing?
I was screwing those screws pretty tightly. I'll try to ease up on that next time.
Edit: I'm going to look through the bigass Merlin RTA thread too to see what else I can learn.
I was screwing those screws pretty tightly. I'll try to ease up on that next time.
Edit: I'm going to look through the bigass Merlin RTA thread too to see what else I can learn.
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Before you put the Cotton in, and when you check (Dry Burning) the Coil to see if it is Heating Evenly from the Center of the Coil outward, if it Isn't, sometimes it Helps to Strum the Coil with the tip of Something Small like the Tip of a Blue Screwdriver.
When you strum the Coil, it will go "Pring". So some people call it "Pring-ing" the Coil.
BTW - Always use Low Wattage like 10 Watts or so when you Dry Burn a Coil.
Perhaps this coil building business isn't for me My Ohm meter read the coil around .5 and the mod did too. Then I added the wick which made the ohm reading fluctuate wildly. Now my mod won't even register that there's a coil attached to it. The mod is a Halo Reactor Mega 80.
Edit: Now the mod is reading the coil at .7 but the temperature protection comes on all the time.
Edit 2: Mod is now showing "atomizer short" while the Ohm meter reads the coil at .15. I put my old tank back on with a premade coil that was vaping just fine earlier today and the mod shows "no atomizer". Perhaps I need a new mod?
My Ohm meter read the coil around .5 and the mod did too. Then I added the wick which made the ohm reading fluctuate wildly. Now my mod won't even register that there's a coil attached to it. The mod is a Halo Reactor Mega 80.Edit: Now the mod is reading the coil at .7 but the temperature protection comes on all the time.
Edit 2: Mod is now showing "atomizer short" while the Ohm meter reads the coil at .15. I put my old tank back on with a premade coil that was vaping just fine earlier today and the mod shows "no atomizer". Perhaps I need a new mod?
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Something is very Funky on this Fine Christmas Mourning.
OK... Let's start from Scratch.
You are using a Halo Reactor Mega 80 with a Merlin RTA. Right?
Is the Mod right now in TC Mod or is it in VW Mode? If it is in TC, what happens when you put the Mod in VW Mode? Do you still get the "No Atomizer" error? If not, are the Ohms reading what your Ohm Reader said they should be?
OK... Let's start from Scratch.
You are using a Halo Reactor Mega 80 with a Merlin RTA. Right?
Is the Mod right now in TC Mod or is it in VW Mode? If it is in TC, what happens when you put the Mod in VW Mode? Do you still get the "No Atomizer" error? If not, are the Ohms reading what your Ohm Reader said they should be?
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Something is very Funky on this Fine Christmas Mourning.
OK... Let's start from Scratch.
You are using a Halo Reactor Mega 80 with a Merlin RTA. Right?
Is the Mod right now in TC Mod or is it in VW Mode? If it is in TC, what happens when you put the Mod in VW Mode? Do you still get the "No Atomizer" error? If not, are the Ohms reading what your Ohm Reader said they should be?
Hi zoiDman. Thanks for the reply. I'll see what happens when I put the mod in VW mode with the coil I made. I'll also try to upload a picture.
Right now the mod is back to TC mode and set for Ni200 coils. It's reading the premade coil but a couple times it was unable to read it.
So I'm not a regular poster but I been into TC using SS316 wire ever since I got my first DNA 200 and I'll never go back to kanthal.
I do my coils just like kanthal.
My typical build is a dual coil using two 26g twisted together until the wire breaks from the drill. My preference is 2.5m rod to wrap on because it seems to fit and function well in my various rda/rdta/rta'.
Once mounted and everything's tightened I glow them, strum them, compress and tweak them until they glow nice and even.
Then I wick them. If you get a dry/burnt hit you need to rewick, happens sometimes. Once you figure out what your specific tank/RDA "wants" then you can replicate that for next time.
My builds I usually aim for .1-.2 for a dual and .3-.5 for a single.
When I first started with SS I found some people saying don't glow them, and some saying to glow them. But logic would dictate that to make sure they're going to work ok you have to glow them.
Tried Ni200, didn't hit or work like i wanted it to.
Ive been doing this build for about 9 months now and loving it. Even on my older mods that don't have TC just VW they work great.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I do my coils just like kanthal.
My typical build is a dual coil using two 26g twisted together until the wire breaks from the drill. My preference is 2.5m rod to wrap on because it seems to fit and function well in my various rda/rdta/rta'.
Once mounted and everything's tightened I glow them, strum them, compress and tweak them until they glow nice and even.
Then I wick them. If you get a dry/burnt hit you need to rewick, happens sometimes. Once you figure out what your specific tank/RDA "wants" then you can replicate that for next time.
My builds I usually aim for .1-.2 for a dual and .3-.5 for a single.
When I first started with SS I found some people saying don't glow them, and some saying to glow them. But logic would dictate that to make sure they're going to work ok you have to glow them.
Tried Ni200, didn't hit or work like i wanted it to.
Ive been doing this build for about 9 months now and loving it. Even on my older mods that don't have TC just VW they work great.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I forgot, about 6 wraps usually, and I use steam-engine.org for a "rough" estimate on my coils.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'll reply back in a few days. I'm not going to take any more risks with my Halo Reactor mod because it's the only one I have I ordered an Eleaf iPower. When that comes in the mail, I'll give this coil wrapping business another try.
I ordered an Eleaf iPower. When that comes in the mail, I'll give this coil wrapping business another try.I'll reply back in a few days. I'm not going to take any more risks with my Halo Reactor mod because it's the only one I have
Always a Good Idea to have a Backup.
Let us know when you give things Another Try. Or if you get Stuck on something.
if u are using ss in tc mode u should never get a dry/burnt hit IME, but I use rayon which might make a difference. I get way more life out of rayon since switching from cotton. I re-wick about once a month for my 5 mods in heavy rotation, which is about 100 - 150 ml per rta/rda/rdta. The RTA (boreas and billow v3+) I run in VW mode currently and never get dry hits. If I ever run out of pre-built coils or spools of kanthal I will start using SS in TC mode in my RTA again but since I hate wasting money/goods I am using those items up in the tanks that are less likely to run dry versus the rda/rdta.
or 10 or 20......
Ni200 mode is for nickel coils. If you're using stainless steel you need to set the mod to ss (or vw) mode.
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