SS DiD Clone help?

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Tfarc

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Dec 18, 2012
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OK a month, better part of a square foot of mesh, untold amounts of youtube and googling I finally feel like I'm starting to have a measure of success.

The first and possibly obvious problem I have been dealing with is hot spots on the top wrap of my coil. Saw a video with JC West talking about the same issue on an AGA-T and how decreasing the distance between the top wrap and the post helped him with this issue. I also found a thread talking about taking your time breaking in the coil and wick on low power while keeping it wet with juice. Before I was firing it dry starting it on about 4-5 watts and trying to reposition the coils to work out the hot spots. So between the two I have been having a lot more success. Would love to claim victory but until I get a few more wicks behind me the jury is out lol.

So now I'm starting to think more about wicking issues. I am trying to play around with using less and more material to see if one works better than the other for me. I have been working with 400 and just got some 500. I use heavier juices usually 20/80. So far it seems like the 500 is wicking better but I'm having to take out the fill screw. Sooo the question I have is.....If I get this thing set up right will I be able to keep the fill screw in and get good wicking during heavy vaping using 80% VG juices? If so please share a few tips :)
 

PepNYC

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Wish I could help you. I'm in the same boat but a bit further behind you. I just received my DiD clone yesterday. Watched a few vidz, read a poop load of posts and so far no good. Got the wick all nice and oxidized and coiled her up but I get nothing but dry burnt hits. I tried for about 2 hours and had to walk away. Besides my throat being all jacked up from the harsh hits, my frustration level got to an uncomfortable point so I figured it be best to just leave it for a while. I'll be back at it today most likley but the clone only came with 2 tiny pieces of mesh so I've just ordered a 12 x 12 sheet of 400 to play with. I hope I can get good at wicking these things as I hear they are amazing when you finally do get them working properly. Good luck!!
 

PepNYC

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So a little prodding, probing, and playing with my wick and coils I was able to make it work. Somewhat.

Minimized the dry, burnt hits but still can't chain vape. However, I did find a big difference with wicking and draw with the fill screw removed.

Screw in = Tighter draw, less wicking
Screw out = Loose, airy draw, better wicking

I personally like a tighter draw but not at the cost of dry hits. My poor litte throat can't take no more!!!

Screw out for me.....for now anyway.
 

PepNYC

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Another thing for dry hits or the harsh throat hit would be to make sure your air hole is lined up directly in front of your wick. You may have done that already but just thought I would mention it just in case. Good luck!

Yes sir. Believe it or not, my air hole lines up perfectly with the wick when tightened all the way down. They must have fixed that after all the negative feedback on that issue.

Thank you for the tip though. Glad I didn't have to sand the darn thing.
 

Tfarc

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Dec 18, 2012
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United States
Wish I could help you. I'm in the same boat but a bit further behind you. I just received my DiD clone yesterday. Watched a few vidz, read a poop load of posts and so far no good. Got the wick all nice and oxidized and coiled her up but I get nothing but dry burnt hits. I tried for about 2 hours and had to walk away. Besides my throat being all jacked up from the harsh hits, my frustration level got to an uncomfortable point so I figured it be best to just leave it for a while. I'll be back at it today most likley but the clone only came with 2 tiny pieces of mesh so I've just ordered a 12 x 12 sheet of 400 to play with. I hope I can get good at wicking these things as I hear they are amazing when you finally do get them working properly. Good luck!!

LOL yeah I have had many nerd rage moments. But when everything is working good they are lovely. Hopefully I will become better at it as time goes by as I am definitely not one of the people who has had amazing success at my first attempt...lol Wish I could get it to work better with the fill screw in as it would make it more portable but it's cool as an around the house fiddle toy lol.
 

04stinugget

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On my aga I found that leaving the fill screw loose 1/4 turn fixes the slightly slow wicking. It also makes it possible to unscrew it with just the tip fo your finger or any object small enough to grab a notch in the screw. might work for you as well. also when you notice it starting to dry out put your finger over the airhole and give a few short light pulls on it with the device slightly tilted. these little things have all allowed me to chain vape my aga without any issues.
 

PepNYC

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Another member enlightened me to this. (Thank you Junior)

28 and 30 gauge wire are much easier to work with and are less prone to hotspots. I gave up on the 32 gauge for now and I'm using 28 gauge with no problems what so ever. The only caveat I've found is the resistance is so low with 28 you have to use a mechanical mod. I have received the 30 gauge yet but I'm sure you can get it to work on a provari or vamo or zmax or whatever with the higher resistance 30 gauge wire.

Bottom line: If you are struggling with your RBA and using 32 gauge, try 28, then 30. You will be amazed at the difference. Good luck.
 
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