I know not CDO, is there a drug to cure that? Or, is CDO a good thing?
Stock pile?
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I know not CDO, is there a drug to cure that? Or, is CDO a good thing?
I'm working on the assumption that degradation is linear over time, and given that most reports from people who've had it that long are something to the effect of "no noticeable degradation" over 5-6 years, I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't go 15-20 or even 30 years.
Well, my own lifetime supply fits handily in a 2.1 cubic foot under-counter freezer, and my wife's chest freezer isJust a thought before people start converting spare bedrooms into walk in freezers
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It's a great feeling every once in a while seeing that dust-covered cigarette pack sitting on my desk with that one lonely cig in there. When I decided to try quitting, I told myself "Self....if you want it, smoke it". And there it sits, over a year and a half later. Must be really gross by now, but it's nice knowing it's there and that I don't have ANY desire to touch it!Wow, really? That's awesome. I decided when I started this vaping journey that I was not going to beat myself up if I still smoked. I actually didn't think it was going to work. I am just floored at how well I am taking to this and enjoying it too. I hope to be cig free soon.
Both VG and PG are sold for other purposes in substantial quantities, so I don't foresee them becoming all that difficult to get, or subject to "sin taxes".
That said, I do have a doomsday stash of them. 4 gallons (3VG, 1PG) that came in 1-gallon plastic bottles. I've rebottled it all into quart-sized amber glass Boston round style bottles and keep it at room temperature. 4-gallons is by no means a lifetime supply for me -- it's probably only about 7 years worth. All-in cost: Right around $100. Cheap insurance.
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I'd rather have too much, than not enough.
If it goes bad, it will be good for pesticide.
We go through a lot of that in Florida.
If it goes bad, it will be good for pesticide.
We go through a lot of that in Florida.
I have mine (2 gallon bottles) in a de-humidified basement that rarely gets over 70 degrees even in the in the summer. It is about one cement block over ground level and nine feet underground. I left mine in the plastic bottles, original packaging. The caps are sealed. I don't have PG, I don't react well and so I use de-ionized water. For the water, I use about 1/4 of what others use of PG for dilution.
Wow, really? That's awesome. I decided when I started this vaping journey that I was not going to beat myself up if I still smoked. I actually didn't think it was going to work. I am just floored at how well I am taking to this and enjoying it too. I hope to be cig free soon.
That's the best way, Bonnie, and you will!
My vapocalypse topper plan is mostly drippers because they are simple, can be cheap, and there are fewer parts to fail. I like Provari 2.5's because they are very reliable and can be had new for $75-79 direct from Provape. I'd rather vape a P3 or Radius but they are expensive to back up.
For a good dripper on a Provari P2.5 it is important to get one designed for single coiling (the air flow cap will have 3 slots, and can be positioned sp that one of the usually two coil positions can be blocked off).
I started by buying 3 or 4 Troll drippers, and they can be had (authentic) for under $20. Then I started to like Royal Hunters and bought three of them, then I decided I like Royal Hunter Minis so I'm accumulating a few of them. When I find something I like, and is cheap, I buy 3 or 4 total.
I have a KFL+ clone that is the least favorite of all my toppers. Just not enough air flow. And the V4 is way too complex for a vapocalypse solution. I like Kanger Sub-tank Minis, and spare RBA decks can be bought for about $6 each. I think the RBA deck is the most failure prone part (and I have killed one or two already). It's an easy build, with lots of room on the deck. I'm happy with the results at 14W or less on a Provari 2.5. I like my Kabuki better at 14W or less but it isn't rebuildable.
I don't worry about stockpiling Kanthal coil wire. That is an industrial item that can be bought outside of vape shops. Like here: Kanthal A1. Same with cotton.
I think @Bonnie C needs to concentrate on deciding on a final source for nic. It can take a couple of months to get comfortable enough with 100mg concentrate and comfortable with a particular supplier. Then fill the freezer
A lot of tax schemes that have been proposed or implemented would easily tax a liter of concentrated nic at $1000, and if concentrated nic is taken off the market then the tax rises to as much as $30,000 or more (I'll be happy to run sample numbers).
You are right about less to go wrong with a dripper and lack of airflow in a Kayfun Lite
However things do go wrong in drippers.
I hate the burned cotton, and sometimes the O rings fail and they leak like crazy.
I just don't like the flavor of burning cotton with my vape.
I chose RTAs. I have two or three Kayfun Lite Plus. I will replace them with Kayfun Monster bases next time I order from fasttech, and sell the Lite Plus on eBay
I also have three Silverplay in my drawer.
I wouldn't say that. The barrel around the RBA is thin andcflimsy. I turned the round barrel into an oval trying to get the top off.
If you are going Subtank Mini with RBA you should consider buying a few spare RBAs.
Down to 2 a day. It's that morning one with coffee, and after dinner one. I'm getting there.
Bonnie...Congratulations!....soon you should sense how repulsive that cigarette really is...it's just a matter of time.
Being a betting guy, I'd wager a short amount of time....
While some here are talking about laying in 20-30 year supplies, as a bare minimum, plus leaving legacies to the kids (and soon grandkids, knowing this crowd) I think it is worth mentioning that no one here has any experience or knowledge of the actual lifespan of nic stored in a freezer. One member here, Kurt, our resident chemist, has some that is 6 years old and not yet degraded. But can it go 15-20 years?
Just a thought before people start converting spare bedrooms into walk in freezers
There are many factors and hard to tell.
The freezing and thawing, the light getting to it when the door is open, the defrost cycles, the plastic bottles the nic is stored in. Some plastics become brittle when frozen.
If it was me I would get an opaque box for the nic. I would re bottle the nic in 4 oz bottles of #1 plastic.
The box will block the light, and reduce the harm of the defrost cycles.
#1 plastic can deal with freezing temperatures. I have some Prickly Pear juice that has been in the freezer for a year and a half and the bottle is as good as ever
Why smaller bottles? If you have a liter bottle you have to take the bottle our and let it tgaw. With 4 or 8 ounce bottles; reach in the freezer take a bottle out put the lid on and you have a lot less nic being exposed to light and heat degradation.
On second thought I would probably line the bottom and walls if the box with thin Styrofoam to reduce the damage of defrost cycles even more.
I'm working on the assumption that degradation is linear over time, and given that most reports from people who've had it that long are something to the effect of "no noticeable degradation" over 5-6 years, I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't go 15-20 or even 30 years.
Well, my own lifetime supply fits handily in a 2.1 cubic foot under-counter freezer, and my wife's chest freezer is 25 cubic feet. So I think a walk-in would be overkill. However, if I a younger man and was planning for 50+ years, I might consider a 2-stage "cryogenic" freezer than can get cold enough to actually freeze nic base solid.
I can think of plenty reasons why it wouldn't. Defrost cycles are very damaging to things in the freezer.
I wrote another message explaining how to reduce that degradation.
Right. That's why a dedicated freezer that isn't "frost free" is a better choice for long-term storage than the freezer section of a typical kitchen refrigerator.
There are plenty of RTAs.
Someone recommended Kayfun 4. That is the LAST THING I would recommend. Too many moving parts and too many things to go wrong.
I would recommend the Billow V2. It is like a simplified version of the Kayfun V4.
Aqua V2 is another with a solid chimney.
I love the heck out of my little Silverplay Nano. The magic happens with the Bell cap. Not the glass tank. Screw the chimney into the Bell cap tightly and they stay together. I pull my build all the time for re wicking. I even bottom fill the Silverplay without needing a tool for the fill port. I also plug two of the juice wells with cotton and wet them with juice. The cotton plugs stay in in the wells until I get the base screwed on. I prefer a single coil.
Another great thing about the Silverplay Nano is the O ring on the base is the same size as the O rings for the base of the Kayfun and Orchid. I know because I pulled out the flat silicone O ring and put in a Kayfun O ring and put it back together. After 12 hours the Silverplay had not leaked at all. You can get 20 of those O rings on Fasttech for about 80 cents.
That is why Silverplays are in my SHTF drawer. Should you have loose threads at the chimney a little locktite on the threads and that us NOT coming apart. Besides you need locktite in the SHTF drawer anyway.
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