submarine cart??

[rver]

I want to purchase a couple of sub tanks from Pop but I have no idea where I can buy carts for that size. I use a provari and vape at 4.6 to 4.8V...that's my sweet spot...LOL. I will not use a LR and do not like dual coil. I need a cart that is in the range of 4.6 to 3.0 in order to vape correctly. I thought that perhaps someone out there can tell me where to buy the cart for the submarine tank...would appreciate some help.

 

[P0P]

The site should have the 3.0 in stock if you would like rver

 

[rver]

Thanks Pop...but would that be for the sub and not the mini?

 

[P0P]

The sub is larger and takes the 1.7 and the mini takes the 2.0 and the 3.0 everything should be in stock except the sub kits. I am waiting for more of them rver

Welcome to Mom and Pops

 

[pwyll]

Thanks Pop...but would that be for the sub and not the mini?

Yes, but the "Sub" is for the 1.7XL Ressurectors. The "Mini" is actually for regular sized cartos. If you are looking at having SR cartos in the XL size, the Sub kit will work fine, Mom & Pop just don't have any eXtra Large cartomizers in the standard or high resistance ratings...

 

[rver]

Thanks for the info pwyll...I'll look around

 

[pwyll]

No problem. It can get confusing with all the sizes of things now, anyway--but when one item's "mini" is another's "regular" it start's getting really hard to keep track. I haven't seen any HR/HV cartos in an XL size, but I don't really go looking for them--it helps in keeping track of the constantly changing and increasing options for the LR-SR stuff I use

Just out of curiosity, what's the deal with raising the resistance on atty's and cartos when you raise the voltage? How is 4 ohms at 4 volts different than 2 ohms at 3.7 volts? I vary my voltage from 3.7 to 6 volts, but I use DCC or 2 ohm hybrid atty's for everything. I know there is subtle mathematics involved to get specific watt and all, but math hurts my unfrozen-caveman brain. I just can't seem to figure out how increasing the ohms to compensate for increasing the voltage doesn't compensate for it and end up giving "the same for all practical purposes" experience. I know it has to be different somehow or there wouldn't be so many people doing it, but what is the difference?

If you don't mind me asking

 

[P0P]

I love vv i don't use all the power but its nice to know its there if i want, kinda like a v8 with that said I don't like looking at the walls while I'm taking a puff give it a little kiss and ya done lol

 

[rver]

pwyll...Well, about the only answere I can give you is that I am the worst person in the world as far as electronics goes...we don't seem to get along at all LOL. In fact, if I have electrical problems here at the house, I scream for one of my neighbors who is an electrical genius and let him fix it. When I bought my provari, I read all of the material on their website and what stuck in my lousy mind was when they said that when vaping at high voltage you should use high resistance. They said that using LR carts, at let's say 5.5 V is a no no. So anyway, when Pop gets his mini's back in stock I will get them and forget about dual coils etc etc...just to darn confusing for this 80 year old man...LOL In the morning when I'm having coffee and watching the news, I'll kick it up to 5.7 for a few drags...what a blast...my sweet spot is 4.6 however.

 

[pwyll]

Okay. I know the reason for not using normal LR at five or more volts is that it will likely pop the coil. But the dual coils are so popular because they are LR as far as vaping is concerned but are SR or HR as far as the batteries are concerned. I use the 1.6 DCC's at 6v (6.4 off the charger) all the time. I can see where you're coming from--you don't know anything about it so you follow the directions and find what works for you within that. Nothing wrong with that at all--the whole point is to find what works

I've just seen people who've supposedly experimented all across the spectrum and their choice is barely higher voltage with HR coils, which would seem to me be the same as normal voltage with LR coils. All I've got is LR attys and cartos--I'm curious, but I don't want to spend the money on HR coils if there's really no real-world difference in the experience...


Back to the original topic: Both tanks are functionally identical except the Sub has a longer tube than the Mini. If you want to use the normal sized cartos but want a bigger tank than the Mini offers, you can get the Sub and simply shorten the tube (even sandpaper will work) to the lenght you want. You'd only have to take a millimeter or two off to make the tank be the same length as the cartos--that will give you maximum volume without having to find XL cartos in your preferred resistance range...

 

[rver]

Well now, after reading your info, I do believe I have been wrong about dual coils. I'm going to give it a shot based on what has worked for you. I would rather not shave down the tube on the submarine. Again, now that I have read your info, I believe I understand a lot better now. Many thanks for your help in getting this pounded into my head now...I'll start ordering shortly and will see how it goes. Thank God for this forum and people like you...now back to the football game...

 

[pwyll]

If there is a Provari thread, you might want to ask about the DCC's to make sure. I currently don't have a VV mod so my 6v vaping is via stacked batteries. I have heard of the DCC's tripping the protection circuitry on some VV chips because they do pull more amperage. It doesn't hurt the mod, the batteries or the coil--it just doesn't fire.

The DCC's work great at high voltage--but not necessarily on all VV's at high voltage. I don't think I've ever heard of one cutting out at under 5 or 5.5 volts, so you should be fine for your day-vape, it just may not work for your early-morning 5.7v vape

 

[P0P]

oh boy this is technical stuff thanks pwyll umm!! I come back later lol

 

[pwyll]

'Salright, you can come back now--I've reached the limit of my technical knowledge

 

[CritterBuddy]

Maybe the following link will help you guys... it is really all about watts or power. When you get into the discussion about why some people prefer HV, especially if you read older posts, you have to remember the technology available at that time. Used to be the lowest ohm atomizer, cartos, etc. you could get was around 3.0 - 3.2. I like many others tried, used, etc. HV to try and find the "perfect vape". As HV evolved standard 3.0 ohm whatevers had to go up to accommodate for the HV battery supply because we started blowing out our whatevers. Today with so many ohm options available you can dial into what your preferred wattage is by changing your whatever or adjust your VVPV to what you like at the moment. Small adjustments of your VVPV can also accommodate slight favor differences too especially with lighter flavored juices.

Ohm's Law Calculator

Plug in a few variables like ohms and volts and it will show you the wattage (power) to give you an idea of the range you like. For me because of the simplicity I prefer 3.7 volts with 2.0 or 1.7 ohm cartos or 6.8 - 8 watts. If I wanted to use my 5 volt regulated PV I'd need a about a 3.5 ohm whatever to simulate the same experience.

Hope this might make it a little easier to understand instead of having to do so much experimenting like I did.

Pops - Been looking at tanks now and really like your side fill valve. Looks much easier and less messy to refill. Compliments, Sir.

 

[pwyll]

Oh I know how to use the calculator to figure out ohms and amps. My problem is that I have seen "arguments" with people insisting that 5v @ 3ohm is a better vape than 3.7v @ 1.7 ohms. I realize the first will give you longer batter life because it's only pulling 1.6 amps as opposed to 2.2, but they both come up to 8 watts. According to the "Watts are everything" argument they should be basically indistinguishable, but I have seen conversation border on incivility over it.

Perhaps you can help me out with something, though. DCC have an effective resistance of 1.6 ohms as far as vaping goes, but 3.2 ohms as far as current draw goes. Does that mean they offer a 22.5 watt vaping "profile" while only pulling 1.9 amps, or is the "effective wattage" also 11.25? I don't understand enough about electronics to figure that out--that's why I prefer the experimentation/practical experience method I am curious about it, though.

 

[rver]

All that said...question is now...are dual coils wired in series or parallel. It seems to me that it will make a difference when applying voltage. This vaping business is getting out of hand LOL Someone on another thread said that they are in series and therefor the coils will blow at high voltage. I have no idea if he was correct or not. Perhaps one of you guys have an answere? By the way Shriner's, that ohm's calculator is very intresting. I'll have to spend some more time on it...perhaps some of it will stick in my dumb brain.

 

[CritterBuddy]

Very good questions because remember Ohm's Law is theory and can not take into account equipment limitations. There are several factors probably not being utilized in the 5.0/3.0 and 3.7/1.7 discussion that can make a huge difference and why experimentation can result with such different results. Yes, experimentation has lead me to the following conclusions also.

First of all, all comparisons must be done on the the same PV, same battery brand/make, etc. for the following reasons.

All PVs have a different number of "touch" contacts or "solder" contacts in them. Each time there is a touch contact there is resistance. I had one PV (which I shall not name) that had so many "touch" contacts in it that I was losing upwards to 1 ohm in resistance. In other words, my 2.0 ohm carto now acted like a 3.0 ohm carto. Also, have you seen the expression "hot spring" on the board? The materials some springs are made out of are not as conductive as others. Normally not a problem but remember we are dealing with very minute electronics here and can make a huge difference.

Not all batteries are created equal. Basic 3.7 volt batteries are designed to provide about 1 amp of draw. There are some minor differences and I've had some batteries draw as much as 1.5 amps very well. But normally whenever you go over about 1.5 amps you really should be using high drain batteries in order to duplicate the same effect. Sure I've seen some people swear by this brand of battery but for the two setups we're talking about your really should be using high drains. I use 3.7/1.7 and 3.7/2.0 setups myself and I can see huge difference depending on which batteries I am using. The high drains will give you far more TH, vapor, flavor, etc.

Sorry, I couldn't think of an easy way to explain the theory behind DCCs. Just remember what they say about what the battery "sees" and that is how they will react. For me, I can't get a DCC to last more than 3-4 days and they do drain my normal batteries faster. I think because they actually don't run hot enough on each coil so they can self clean like a single coil will do.

 

[MikeJA]

Not sure if this will help. Nothing technical, just what is working for me...

I received a couple of Subs and one Minisub yesterday. I must say it's a great design at a very, very good price. I'm currently using the Sub on a Provari using a 2.5ohm XL Smoketech DC punched with two holes and it works very well. I find myself vaping in the high 4s with this setup. I threw the Minisub on an ego battery with a LR Boge and it's an awesome little setup when I want to take something smaller than the Provari.

 

[pwyll]

... Someone on another thread said that they are in series and therefor the coils will blow at high voltage. I have no idea if he was correct or not. ...

They are wired in series. They do not blow at 6.4 volts. I don't know what he considered "high voltage" but there are at least two of us that vape DCC's with stacked LiFePO's (and Hairball's vaping cojones are so big I wouldn't be surprised if she vaped at 7.4/8.4) with nary a problem.

...
First of all, all comparisons must be done on the the same PV, same battery brand/make, etc. for the following reasons.
...

Simply to be a fair comparison. All the reasons you gave are true--but even if there weren't the obvious electrical differences from one mod to another (let alone the possible differences between two "identical" mods), it's a matter of methodology. You don't do a DNA comparison on two different machines (in fact both/all samples ahould be run by the same technician), you don't do a taste test of sodas with one from a glass bottle and the other from an aluminum can, you don't compare electrical components using different devices...

...
Sorry, I couldn't think of an easy way to explain the theory behind DCCs. Just remember what they say about what the battery "sees" and that is how they will react. For me, I can't get a DCC to last more than 3-4 days and they do drain my normal batteries faster. I think because they actually don't run hot enough on each coil so they can self clean like a single coil will do.

And that's something that facinates me to no end. I can't say anything about the battery drain as I very rarely let my batteries "die." But I consider a DCC defective if it lasts less than a month--I consistently get 1 to 2 months off them, and I've had as many last 3 months as I've had go down in 2 weeks. I've been testing a 1.7 Resurrector for comparison and there was noticeable change in flavour after about two week--which I usually don't get with the DCC's until about the fourth week. I know everyone has a different vaping style--but the fact that some people expect an atty to die after a week or two while others have had the same attys for more than a year, and some people are happy if a carto lasts two weeks while others will complain to the seller if one dies after a month because they expect them to last six just befuddles me. Like math