From the couple of photos it almost looks like too little heat so you've had to apply the soldering iron for way too long and the heat has then heated up the whole wire, track, and such, the solder hasn't flowed too well...
I'm no expert and I'm a bit rough but I've done plenty of soldering over the years, the best method for me seems to be:
-have the soldering iron fairly hot.
-wipe the tip on a damp cotton rag to clean off any crud. (or a proper cleaning sponge if you have one)
-melt some solder onto the tip, then wipe it off again, then melt a little more solder onto the tip again, you want it looking nice and clean and it needs a little solder on it to help transfer the heat and so there's some fresh flux on the tip... Clean the tip frequently as you go, you dont want cruddy bits of burnt flux or dull looking melted solder on there, it should always look nice and shiny...
-then, with the fire button type connections where the wire isn't going
through a hole, "tin" the pad on the circuit board and tin the wire... i.e. touch the soldering iron tip which has a little fresh solder on it onto the pad, and poke your solder in so it contacts the tip and the pad at the same time, the solder should melt almost instantly and flow across the pad so you should get a nice little coating of solder on the pad, dont add too much solder, just enough to cover the copper pad, this all needs to be done fairly fast so the heat doesn't travel and so you dont burn the pads off the board, it should only take a second.... Then do much the same with the wire, clean the tip, add a little solder to the tip, sit the tip on the wire and feed in the solder and let it wick along the wire so it ends up kinda encased in solder.. Then to join the wire to the pad, rest the tinned wire on the tinned pad, have it all held securely, and put the freshly cleaned soldering iron tip on top on the wire, the solder that you previously applied to the wire should melt then in turn melt the solder on the pad, and you should end up with a nice joint, often you dont need to add in anymore solder to the joint, it depends how much solder is on the pad and wire, but have the solder in hand to feed in if it needs it, again, it should be a fairly fast process, only a couple of seconds..
With the pads that you need to poke the wire through you're better off not tinning the pad or the wire first, if you do you probably wont get the wire through the hole... So, twist the wire and poke it through the hole, clean the tip, add a little solder to the tip, rest the tip into the joint so it's in contact with the copper pad and the wire, then feed in the solder, the solder will flow where the heat is so it's important to have the tip in contact with the pad and the wire, again this needs to be done fairly fast and in one go, you don't want to be having multiple goes at the same joint...
It's important to have everything held firmly because you usually have the soldering iron in one hand and the solder in the other, so with tinning the wires sit them on the edge of a bench and sit something heavy on the wire to hold it steady, or with the switch, sit it on a bench and put a weight on it to hold it down, then sit the tinned wire on the tinned pad and sit a weight on the wire so it all stays there, you dont want the wire lifting up as you take the soldering iron away or such... With the wires through the holes you just want everything kinda secure so things aren't moving around as you touch it with the soldering iron.. You can get those dedicated clamp setups with a couple of alligator clamps on them to help hold things but you can usually make do with propping stuff up on, or weighing things down odd tools or such..
There is a knack to soldering and it takes practice to get good... No doubt there are lots of youtube videos around also, it may be worth watching a few...
and sorry if you know all this, I know soldering is a bit of a pain at times, I have to be in the mood for it, and low grade chinese wire and modern lead-free solder makes life hard also...
