SXK Billet box...

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badinfluence357

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This is how I now seal my Bbs to prevent pooling and flooding damage...

first step, I use a little bit of thin or medium cyanoacrylate glue around the lines of positive pin, let dry for a day. Then I use a little clear gorrila glue going around the lines of the positive pin creating a small bubble, let dry for a day. Last step, I use clear nail polish to seal it all up, let dry.

Then I just scrape the center of the positive pin just a little in a circular motion to create the bullseye, done.

I have flooded my mod when removing the negative nut pulling off the attys whatever its called, cant remember right now. But yeah you guys get the picture...seal that positive up and your mod will live a long life...
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dwcraig1

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I just finished polishing my battery positive contacts on both SXK's then applied a tiny amount of Noalox to both. I rarely ever remove the battery except to clean the positive contact. I didn't get much improvement in the way of voltage drop as they were recently cleaned. Maybe now they will stay good for longer.
Thank @Fredman1 for the reminder.
Screenshot 2022-03-28 180907.png

Standing voltage here is 4.17 volts on Samsung 20S firing at 45 watts, then 35. The voltage drop is 3.75 volts.
 
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Ccplol

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Feb 13, 2022
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A little boxxer love today. I need that smooth draw and flavor after todays day at work..View attachment 971719

Sent from the killa custard in the tank!

Is that a clone? Just asking because I thought that was defective? I'm interested in a very airy open bridge but don't want to invest into a faulty one. Let me know. Thanks.
 
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badinfluence357

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Is that a clone? Just asking because I thought that was defective? I'm interested in a very airy open bridge but don't want to invest into a faulty one. Let me know. Thanks.
All of the Boxxers leak, v1, v1.2, v2, clones and authentics...

All the answers regarding leaks tips and tricks are all in this thread, I just dont remember the page. I have an oring around the deck and still have to remove the tank every two days to dry things up..

I recommend that all BB users seal the positive post to avoid damage to their mods. If you look on Facebook you will see that a ton of BB users have leaks, even with the newest attys.

I think its a combination of user wicking errors, chimney designs, condensation, and negative contact seeping that contributes to the leaking..
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AtmoMarios

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I have like a half a dozen spare SXK panels (2 are clear) and none of them have ever cracked. Maybe it is rare, I don't know. I also have some Skully panels that are thicker and cutouts for the screen and juice level. And thanks for the tip about MK mods panels. I've seen them for the Pulse AIO too.

By the way, I ordered panels by Vandy Vape for their Pulse AIO and they included 8 spare magnets with each set. I thought that was generous and unusual. Not that I think I'll ever need them, unless I manufacture my own panels.
Where did you get the Skully panels from? Thanks
 
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badinfluence357

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Took a day off, enjoying the life out of the Zeta and Atom on this rainy day.
I cant believe how well this black borro tank line's up with the condensation plug. I can actually slide the glass all the way down to fill it with the condensation plug installed..
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diagrammatiks

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read all 175 pages of this thread. You guys really fell off around 2022 huh. So much new stuff is coming out now.

Rabbit hole time.

Had this stuff for about 2.5 weeks now.
IMG_6116.jpg


2022 Silver SXK BB
sxk Delro
pulse aio
sxk bantam box Revision

Bridges:
RPM Bridge
VVC Pulse Bridge
Vessel
Mobb Mini
BP Pioneer
Kanger type RBA
520 bridge
Kanger type RBA
520 bridge
520 PNP bridge
VWM dope
Bridg'd v2


Thoughts on devices.

Sxk BB - Finish quality is pretty good. The screws are trash. I stripped 2 already. Juice spills are a bit scary since everything is below the tank.

Delro - Very nice device but the finish quality on mine is trash. You can see it in the photo above...only 1500 puffs on board. Inside color is coming off just from cleaning juice. The outside is getting completely scratched just from being in my pocket. Disappointing. I'm still glad I have one over another SXK BB tho. Front airflow is good for some things.

Bantam box - It's kinda cool. Battery life is kinda bad though.

Pulse AIO - Love it. It's light. The battery is big. Quality of the panels is not great tho. My black doors are already getting discolored.

Bridges - The included RPM bridge is really bad. Leaks like a sieve through the bottom of the coil. It's a drag because the rpm coils are by far the easiest to rebuild. But it's not safe to use at all on anything other then the bantam box.


520/PNP - The 520 is probably the best value. The pnp sxk bridge is out of stock everywhere. The only problem is that the adapters only fit in the 520 tank so you have to choose what to put in the tank.

Vessel - I love the design of this. It's modern and not as fiddly as the older style bridges.

Mobb Mini - Airflow is really nice.

Everything else is pretty ok.


Should have some more things coming in a few weeks.
 

Pigs

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Delro - Very nice device but the finish quality on mine is trash. You can see it in the photo above...only 1500 puffs on board. Inside color is coming off just from cleaning juice. The outside is getting completely scratched just from being in my pocket. Disappointing. I'm still glad I have one over another SXK BB tho. Front airflow is good for some things.
I've heard that about the grey and silver finishes.
Of my two aluminium delros, both are the blue colour and have no visible scratches after months of daily use.
 

Pigs

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I don't think you need one Pigs. Just move the wires from one board to another. Make a drawing or take a few pics beforehand in case you get confused along the way.

Say what happened with the original DNA60, may I ask?
Thanks @BillW50 . That sounds like a good approach but I'd still like to see it done in case there are some little tips or tricks, or traps to avoid.
One thing I'm confused about for starters is how to remove the delrin block that houses the positive battery contact. I can only get it out so far before the brass(?) positive pin stops it from going any further.

The original DNA60 started flashing and wouldn't stay on. I cleaned all contacts - there was no juice in the board or screen housing - but this didn't help. Then under a magnifying glass I noticed one of the thin black wires connecting the board to the up/down buttons has what looks like heat damage to the insulation and has exposed the wires inside.
I think this happened when I had an autofire issue a few weeks ago that was caused by the extended button sticking. It fired long enough to burn the cotton black and got hot enough to deform the clapton coil and empty most of the remaining juice out the af holes (not all over the screen thankfully).

The exposed wire was probably shorting against the body after this heat damage. Now the screen flashes and I can hear a buzzing from the board when I hit the fire button. This happens even though the exposed wiring is free from any contact with the body or other metal.
 
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