That's how I started, the wick was touching the glass slightly though and every time I refilled the glass moved the wick and caused a bit of flooding, I had to spin it around a bit more so the wick wasn't touching the glass..
So did Iwell...as the sxk xeta is $20.95 with MAP at the moment i went for it.
I'm not sure what you guys mean by rotating the "insert."
When I hear the word "insert," I think of the little round things you insert into the deck or chimney to adjust the airflow. I always think of the holes for the wicking as "ports."I thought he was talking about the whole Xeta bridge ?.. When I first built mine I had the wicks off-center front to back in the boro so when I lay it down the juice would soak into the rear wick so there's less chance of dry hits when the tank level is getting low.. Then I discovered if the wick is touching the glass when you slide the glass up it pushes the wick up and causes a bit of flooding, so I had to turn the xeta around a bit more so the wick doesn't touch the glass, it's now at about 45 degrees in the boro, wicks pointing to the corners of the boro... I seem to be able to suck the tank dry like that with no issues..
Hope that makes sense..
had finally built the vapeshell to my liking and had been using it for the last few days. half way through today and it's check atomizer time. everything was good and tight. removed the boro and it was pretty wet around the bb pin. concerned that the innards have been effected
There's a tutorial elsewhere online with lots of pics , if you google the phrase below you will find it:
Tutorial - Sealing Connection Pin SXK BB USB Version
I was happy to pull my covers off because I was inquisitive to have a look inside and make sure it actually had a DNA60 in it, and I wanted to check out the build quality... If you're not game to take the covers off you "may" be able to lift the pin insulator up enough to seal it with a pin/needle or tiny screwdriver poked under the edge of the insulator, then put sealant around it and poke it back down...
My insulator was a loose fit but the positive pin was firmly stuck in the insulator and I didn't want to risk breaking it trying to force it out to seal it, I suspect the pin was melted into the insulator when the wire was soldered on, so I put sealant around the insulator then poked it back into the housing, and then put a bit of sealant around the bottom of the pin where the wire connects just in case juice managed to go between the pin and insulator, I don't think that was really necessary because the pin was so firm in the insulator, but I'd like to get many years use out of it... (others may be different)
also, I like silicon sealant because if you ever need to get it apart it breaks away quite easy, unlike most other glues and such... You can get "natural cure" silicons that don't stink...
Photo stolen from the tutorial:
View attachment 835839
Hey Flick, I'm going to give this a crack when mine arrives before I start using it. Are these the types of sealants you used?
Selleys 80g All Clear Multipurpose Sealant
Parfix 40g Clear All Purpose Silicone
Hey Flick, I'm going to give this a crack when mine arrives before I start using it. Are these the types of sealants you used?
Selleys 80g All Clear Multipurpose Sealant
Parfix 40g Clear All Purpose Silicone
Actually, that Parfix is natural cure also, for some reason I thought it was acid cure.... That being the case I would go for that... I use a lot of that exact stuff and it's pretty good, I carry a tube in my campervan and on my motorbike for odd emergency repairs, my motorbike has so much on it, it could be a rolling advertisement for it, lol... (maybe they've changed from acid to neutral over the years and I hadn't noticed)
With the SXK Vapeshell you have to put the cap on with the logos one on each side or it'll leak. If you set it up with the top and bottom engravings on the same side it'll leak. No lie. I tested this myself. I saw somebody else say it and they were right.had finally built the vapeshell to my liking and had been using it for the last few days. half way through today and it's check atomizer time. everything was good and tight. removed the boro and it was pretty wet around the bb pin. concerned that the innards have been effected
Update on the Xeta: It also leaves the smallest amount of condensation of any BB RBA I've tried. I've got most of them (except the Crossbow and the Flow) and the Xeta leaves the back of the Boro basically bone dry. After 2 days of no cleaning I've found a few tiny beads of condensation around the positive pin but much less than others. Not using a condensation plug either.I have run mine down to the bottom without a problem. (Xeta, right?)
Note that the one corner of the upper half (right upper corner) is cut out more than the other side where it clears the peak insulator of the bottom halves positive post.With the SXK Vapeshell you have to put the cap on with the logos one on each side or it'll leak. If you set it up with the top and bottom engravings on the same side it'll leak. No lie. I tested this myself. I saw somebody else say it and they were right.
AHA!!! Thanks.Note that the one corner of the upper half (right upper corner) is cut out more than the other side where it clears the peak insulator of the bottom halves positive post.
View attachment 845977
The one area is longer than the other.