SXK Nebula Wine RTA

[DP2Raja]

Got mine today from FT. The gas came off with just slight resistance. Different batch?
Washed it up and had it coiled and wicked in about 3 minutes...love this time of deck. Put a 3mm ID, 26g Kanthal coil on. 0.65 ohm. vaping at 23w. Nice, but flavor is not there yet. Also, I do not like the noisy airflow. Put my finger over one air hole and it quieted down. Airflow is fine with one blocked. I did not get this for clouds, more for flavor. Hoping that will improve with a little vape time.

I had to break in my Wotofo Serpent too...halway through the second tank it kicked it. Excellent flavor now. Hope this does the same because I like the simplicity of this.

 

[zoiDman]

I think this SXK Wine is a Flavor Machine using a .95 Ohm 3mm ID coil of 28ga NiChrome 80 @ 15w and One Air Hole Blocked.

 

[Katya]

If any of you grab one of these, and don't mind a little modding of it you can cut 3mm of the bottom of the chamber and use Subtank Mini glass on it. Didn't really feel like spending the cash on IBT glass for it, and had some spares for the STM, pretty easy to reduce it by 3mm, and the STM glass fits perfectly, the reduction in the chamber makes the vape a little warmer, and seems to boost the flavor very slightly.

Easy for you to say...

Does using the Erlk's chimney and DT restrict the airflow somewhat? I have two useless Erlks nano in my Vapocalypse box; would be nice to be able to put them to work. Does it make the vape hot? I don't much care for hot.

 

[ccwaters]

I would say no to restricting the air flow, it is pretty close, if it changes it is not much. As for heat, I haven't tried them side by side, but the nano erl, and my Wine are pretty close to the same length, I removed 3mm from the bottom of my chamber. Made it a little warmer, but its still not hot, Chain it, then it will probably get hot.

 

[Katya]

I would say no to restricting the air flow, it is pretty close, if it changes it is not much. As for heat, I haven't tried them side by side, but the nano erl, and my Wine are pretty close to the same length, I removed 3mm from the bottom of my chamber. Made it a little warmer, but its still not hot, Chain it, then it will probably get hot.

Thanks, cc. Do you happen to know the diameter of that air port in the deck? It looks massive in the FT picture. I'm an MTL person, but I like some air--Kayfun 4-like or so. The Erlk is actually too constricted for me, so I'd say 2.25-2.5mm is ideal for me.

 

[zoiDman]

Thanks, cc. Do you happen to know the diameter of that air port in the deck? ...

It's 4mm.

 

[Katya]

It's 4mm.

Ouch... That's BIG...

 

[cobalt327]

Vape band w/one 3/16" hole to block one air intake or ebay for a $1.00 piece of Teflon tubing (4mm OD x 2mm ID) to put in the center post under the coil will restrict the draw sufficiently.

 

[Katya]

Teflon tubing (4mm OD x 2mm ID)

Can this be bought in a hardware store? And is Teflon safe for this application?

I wonder if there's a washer or grommet or some other metal piece that could be inserted there. I know that there's a tank that comes with an airflow restrictor, but I can't remember which one...

I can do 3mm, but not much more than that.

Funny this airflow business. I remember we used to stick toothpicks into our Evod bases because we felt that Evods were airy... It wasn't that long ago.

 

[ccwaters]

Yes, it is 4mm, however it is somewhat restricted by the lower portion of the center pin. which has 2x 1.8mm holes. It can be opened a fair bit by drilling that. Also what some are doing is inserting PTFE tube or similar in the deck hole to reduce the 4mm. I don't mind the open air so haven't bothered. Silicon band will work but certainly is not ideal. Another possibility is to find a longer 510 screw, or even slide a small tube of SS mesh in from the bottom.

wouldn't be hard to tighten up the airflow if needed.

 

[Katya]

SS mesh? I have some #500 and #400 ss mesh sheets. I could experiment with that. Thanks, cc.

 

[cobalt327]

Anything that reduces the cross section area of the air inlet will work to reduce the airiness- even your toothpick in the center post for that matter. Or screen/mesh. Or tape over one hole, just depends on how much appearances strains one's OCD. I liked blocking one hole w/a vape band (the hole nearest to facing me) because it also decreases the noise caused when taking a draw.

Agree a vape band isn't ideal, even though it works fine- it can get moved out of position fairly easily and doesn't help the looks. To that end I have made a set screw from a longer screw (FT probably sells them ready made), now all that's needed is to shorten the atty's 510 screw to allow for the set screw to be used like a Kayfun v4 AFC. I put screwdriver slots on both ends so I can adjust the airflow from the coil side or the 510 side.

BTW, if using the Teflon tubing (the tubing I was looking at is rated for 500 deg. F and yes- it should be available locally in the average community I would imagine), be sure there's some friction between the tubing OD and the air passage (center pin) ID to prevent the tubing from being drawn up into the coil during an inhale. Simply pinching the end of the tubing before pressing it into the center pin is sufficient. And press it down a few mm below the top of the center pin hole, away from the coil, just for good measure. This also lessens the noise of a draw a little, but not as much as closing one of the holes in the base.

 

[ThunderDan]

Have you guys figured out how to disassemble the base? I wanted to take the center pin out so I could file it open a bit more, but for the life of me couldn't figure out how to take apart the base.

 

[cobalt327]

IIRC the center pin is uber tight- as in an interferance press fit, not something that can be easily removed by hand. I would think that after removing the 510 screw, judicious pulling/twisting using pliers or etc. w/the jaws protected from marring the positive terminal block should remove it. Be careful though as I don't think there are spares for it yet (other than O-rings, screws and tanks).

 

[ThunderDan]

IIRC the center pin is uber tight- as in an interferance press fit, not something that can be easily removed by hand. I would think that after removing the 510 screw, judicious pulling/twisting using pliers or etc. w/the jaws protected from marring the positive terminal block should remove it. Be careful though as I don't think there are spares for it yet (other than O-rings, screws and tanks).

Yeah, that is what it seemed like. I did remove the adjustable 510 screw, then tried briefly to push it out with a screw driver, but it didn't budge for me, and I didn't feel like messing it up, so I just stopped.

 

[ccwaters]

This actually looks good :): FastTech Forums

 

[ThunderDan]

That worked for me @ccwaters. Thanks for the link.

 

[ThunderDan]

That friction fit center pin is so odd, I got it out, drilled / filed out the airflow a bit, then hammered it back into place. Now, the insulator at the bottom sticks out too far, I need to get it back around the center pin, but it doesn't want to cooperate.

 

[cobalt327]

Trim w/an exacto maybe?

 

[ccwaters]

You might also try pressing it back in place using the 510 on an old mod.