SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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Just received this device today after punishing myself for too long by trying to resist the temptation to spend more money after only recently purchasing the rdna 40. It's beautiful and is everything I was hoping for and more.
Still, I think I'll still do my temperature controlled vaping on the vaporshark as I've been on a diet for the last 3 months and I'm concerned that all these joules flying about will undo all of my good work.
Still, I think I'll still do my temperature controlled vaping on the vaporshark as I've been on a diet for the last 3 months and I'm concerned that all these joules flying about will undo all of my good work.
For those in the UK. This is the best cell I have found so far. 29k on the first disccharge and 31k on the second. This cell seems to out perform all the cells I have tried so far. If more stable Joules gives better battery life then these Efest seem a perfect match for our M Class. Time will tell but I am very happy so far
Good stuff people
That's crazy battery life I have a few of these and a few Keep power 3200mAh which are probably the same as the rewrapped Efests? Panas of some sort? I tried one last week as I only used HE2,4,VTC,25Rs etc these cells are only rated at 10A constant and maybe 20A pulse they were fine in a parallel powered DNA40 Vaporflask and ATP 40 fitted with an evolv40.
They maybe OK at lowish Joules and Watts but noticed a fairly large sag on firing I dont think there good for the S and M class especially if you are vaping at more than the calculated current draw aswell as the efficiency loss of the 350 chipset.
I suspect problems with the board over time using underrated cells.
Very interesting and thank you for taking the time. I have not noticed any V Sag but will keep an eye on it. I am getting over 30k Joules so something sure is happening with these cells. Very interesting you think they are wraps. I have a fluke so maybe I should get it out and do some testing.
Good stuff and thanks again
that tempered wire is awesome!!!!
just have to get used to not dry burning
I use 26g at 8 wraps on my lemo 2 loves it!!!
its sitting between 0.08 and 0.09. 32j and 475 degrees
Finally caught up with this thread. This probably should be 3 posts but.....
Going back a few days, I think there were some great observations on how the device is regulating on top of PB's video.. FWIW, I got my EE back in the early 80s and haven't used much of it since '86 when I went all software... but every once in a while I find myself reminiscing.... If I were to guess, I'd say there's a Fourier transform involved here to keep the temperature constant- ... we probably won't get a full answer till yihi gives us an explanation.
I have been running 28ga for a few days (was all I could find locally) and was running 6 wraps on 3mm. The first part of my nickel order came through over the weekend (figured a full stock of 24-30 ga was in order) and last night, I built 24ga/13 wraps over 3mm for my Mutation X . I'll probably go up to 4mm for my next build to make it a bit shorter but what a difference. 1+ on the idea of going BIG.
Running at 435F and 35J right now.
The coolest thing I'm finding about this set up in temp mode is as you draw harder, it just keeps up. I'm finding this with the ports wide open or 2/3 closed- adjusting the air flow just changes the draw with minimal impact on the temperature.....In watts mode I would spend a lot more time fiddling around with the airflow and power settings to get both right- not the case with temp setting....it's much easier to dial in.
Also, initial observations, compared to using 24 or 26ga kanthal in power mode, there isn't much delay in getting the coil up to temp (running in standard mode). I'm getting plenty of dense tasty vapor on a short 3 second hit and it pulls consistent all the way through a 10 second lung hit .... Whether that's because of the Nickel vs Kanthal vs Nicrome or simply because of the way the M works... or both, doesn't matter to me...
RE batteries - I'm finding my VTC4's coming in around 18K J, Orbtronics ORB25's coming in around 22K J, and MXJO 35A's (whatever is inside) are coming in around 23K J.
I'm definitely going to need a wrap- already getting scuffs on the black sides. Saw comments about the vaporskinz adding edges . has anyone tried/compared to the jwraps?
Going back a few days, I think there were some great observations on how the device is regulating on top of PB's video.. FWIW, I got my EE back in the early 80s and haven't used much of it since '86 when I went all software... but every once in a while I find myself reminiscing.... If I were to guess, I'd say there's a Fourier transform involved here to keep the temperature constant- ... we probably won't get a full answer till yihi gives us an explanation.
I have been running 28ga for a few days (was all I could find locally) and was running 6 wraps on 3mm. The first part of my nickel order came through over the weekend (figured a full stock of 24-30 ga was in order) and last night, I built 24ga/13 wraps over 3mm for my Mutation X . I'll probably go up to 4mm for my next build to make it a bit shorter but what a difference. 1+ on the idea of going BIG.
Running at 435F and 35J right now.
The coolest thing I'm finding about this set up in temp mode is as you draw harder, it just keeps up. I'm finding this with the ports wide open or 2/3 closed- adjusting the air flow just changes the draw with minimal impact on the temperature.....In watts mode I would spend a lot more time fiddling around with the airflow and power settings to get both right- not the case with temp setting....it's much easier to dial in.
Also, initial observations, compared to using 24 or 26ga kanthal in power mode, there isn't much delay in getting the coil up to temp (running in standard mode). I'm getting plenty of dense tasty vapor on a short 3 second hit and it pulls consistent all the way through a 10 second lung hit .... Whether that's because of the Nickel vs Kanthal vs Nicrome or simply because of the way the M works... or both, doesn't matter to me...
RE batteries - I'm finding my VTC4's coming in around 18K J, Orbtronics ORB25's coming in around 22K J, and MXJO 35A's (whatever is inside) are coming in around 23K J.
I'm definitely going to need a wrap- already getting scuffs on the black sides. Saw comments about the vaporskinz adding edges . has anyone tried/compared to the jwraps?
Yes indded folks. Those Efest 3100 don't look legit.
These look like the best we can get at the moment http://www.efestpower.com/Product/3425914113.html
I will try and order some
They maybe the best for our SX's
These look like the best we can get at the moment http://www.efestpower.com/Product/3425914113.html
I will try and order some
They maybe the best for our SX'sSo Im still having the same issues with my Lemo 2 as before. Starting it out low (something like 13j at .065-.068 ohms) and watching the temp and it consistently goes up and hovers to whatever my set temp is like it should. Had it at 24J and 465. Then it slowly starts to die off, and the temp does not rise. Just jumps up to its set point and starts going bonkers. IM almost positive it's the wicking. I cannot seem to get it right and I've tried everything. Just to make sure I'm not crazy I did the same build on a subtank mini, and it's working just as it should consistently. Disappointing I can't get it right because Im not the biggest fan of the airflow/flavor the STM puts out and those first few draws on the Lemo are perfect.
Few folks in this thread that can suggest what to do with the Lemo 2. I don't have one but looking at your comment it appears to me your wick is running dry to fast causing temp limiting to kick in. You might try a larger diameter coil / wick and make sure you juice channels aren't a bottleneck. Just a thought IDK perhaps a Lemo 2 guru will chime in.
I am finding my best results with wicking is to comb your wick. Can't remember who posted a link but there is one a few pages back. It's a pain to do but worth the effort.
So I have tried diameters of 2.4-3.5 all spaced of course. I also have tried fanning out and combing the wick to fluff it up a bit and have it just barely hitting the deck. I've tried it lower temps as well. Even if I set it to something like 380-400 it's still going bonkers on the temp reading. I'm sure I'll get it one of these days. Taking a break from it and just enjoying the STM. Will probably try again in a bit. And as far as the so called "sweet spot" being at .065....I can say it's been working fantastic and very accurate.
No insult intended but just to rule it out, ... are you sure you are calibrating your device to your coil properly?
I by no means think I have the lemo mastered I'm still on my first build
26g at 8 wraps 3mm its sitting between 0.08 and 0.09. 32j and 475 degrees
one thing I do is wick it just snug enough to pull through with a little resistance against the coil then cut it long ways to make is half as thin inside the chamber but still thick through the coil, then run the flathead screwdriver through the wick to comb it a little.
also I make sure that I'm not blocking the juice channel at all with the wick rather I have the channel clear and the wick next to it allowing the juice flow freely
when I was first trying the TC builds i figured out through trial and error that seemed to be the best way to get a lock solid connection and it appears to solve alot of problems.
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No offense taken. Yes I am. I've been letting it sit around 10-15 and get .064-.069. Trying to figure out how to upload photos from my phone.
What size wire are you using in that Lemo 2? I was having a similar issue to yours and it was because I was getting a hot leg. I don't know how or why I was getting a hot leg. I went from 30 to a twisted 30 build and no longer get the hot leg. I must have done 20 different 30awg coils and got a hot leg every time
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I'm using 28 which is all I have at the moment.
6wraps 2.4mm screwdriver. Currently reading .067
6wraps 2.4mm screwdriver. Currently reading .067
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