Totally agree about the 360. Just the only way to do it without being a pain haha. As far as the STM, I find it easier since there it that recessed area around the screw to let the wire "sit" inside and trap without any difficulties.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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Totally agree about the 360. Just the only way to do it without being a pain haha. As far as the STM, I find it easier since there it that recessed area around the screw to let the wire "sit" inside and trap without any difficulties.
No, no. 360 is a bad idea. Trust me, been there, done that. It works on kanthal builds where you can crank down the screw like no tomorrow but with nickel builds you will either snap the wire at the crossing of wire around the screw or worse, you will fracture it making it appear solid when in fact you now have connection issue with floating resistance.
I wrap my coil legs at 180 degrees so that the screw head presses uniformity on the wire. No more problems
Tony
I have no idea. But when I was constantly "wetting" my wick earlier, it finally started to glow after a bit of testing. At the time I believe the coil was .068? 5 wraps at 2.4mm generously spaced.
I like what you are doing and need to get myself some 30ga NI200.
Give this video a look, this guy really seems to know the Lemo 2 and how to make a great build. A big focus on wicking. I am about to try this myself in a few mins...
I have been vaping my sx mini m series:
Lemo 2, spaced single coil, @ .13, with my still good real VTC5's @ around 25,000-26,000J's @ 300F, 35J's.
Same exact setup, same everything except with my Samsung 25R's, I am still getting 22-23,000J's.
Now I just need to record what I get when I am using my rda since I run a different build and at different temp, joules, and see what I get. I find out my temp by testing it out on cotton to see what I run it up to without so much as leaving a mark on the dry cotton, then I vape at that temp, which for the lemo seems to be 300F. Any more and for me at least, it started to leave some brown, not much but a tiny but, now I truly would never let my cotton get all the way dry, so maybe a more accurate test would be to test on cotton till it gets semi dry without burning? I don't know if I am doing it right, but then I adjust my joules till I see that the temp while hitting it, is coming in at around 300F maybe a little over, like 5-10 but I feel anymore would be pointless. That's how I do it at least, because if I go higher in joules, its just forcing the mod to regulate down more than it needs to, or should I say in the case of the sx mini, to regulate the pulses further apart for no reason.
Lemo 2, spaced single coil, @ .13, with my still good real VTC5's @ around 25,000-26,000J's @ 300F, 35J's.
Same exact setup, same everything except with my Samsung 25R's, I am still getting 22-23,000J's.
Now I just need to record what I get when I am using my rda since I run a different build and at different temp, joules, and see what I get. I find out my temp by testing it out on cotton to see what I run it up to without so much as leaving a mark on the dry cotton, then I vape at that temp, which for the lemo seems to be 300F. Any more and for me at least, it started to leave some brown, not much but a tiny but, now I truly would never let my cotton get all the way dry, so maybe a more accurate test would be to test on cotton till it gets semi dry without burning? I don't know if I am doing it right, but then I adjust my joules till I see that the temp while hitting it, is coming in at around 300F maybe a little over, like 5-10 but I feel anymore would be pointless. That's how I do it at least, because if I go higher in joules, its just forcing the mod to regulate down more than it needs to, or should I say in the case of the sx mini, to regulate the pulses further apart for no reason.
I used the screw heads and my resistance has been rock solid stable.
So far I've vaped the sub tank with nickel OCC's for a few days and an Omertà dripper at .082 single coil, 28 g, 6 wraps. Both vapes have been great. The single coil build on the Omertà worked perfectly right from my first build attempt. Vaping at 23 Joules ,430 temp, mostly Powerful mode. I notice the dripper is really enhancing the flavor compared the the sub tank but that is to be expected normally. I've also noticed the dripper is drying out very fast as compared to dripping on kanthal. I really appreciate the no dry burn factor. Vaping it down to the "dry coil" warning often. When I check the wick it's virtually white fresh. Very happy with the experience.
I was considering getting a Lemo 2 from what a few of you had stated. But after looking at them closer today I think I'll stick with the Subtanks. I think it would be a lot better if the positive post block had a bit of a notch in the center allowing easier placement of the coil more similar to the Subatank Mini. Don't really care for the wrap around block post holes for kanthal or nickle.
Got a Lemo 2 today and I have to say it's the best RTA I've owned. Can't wait til my nickel gets here to try the TC out.
Whoa....wow!!
I have been building on my Lemo (all 3) tanks since I got my SX Mini 2 weeks ago and have been getting good results at 0.11 Ω to 0.19 Ω - 24J - 410º to 420º.
I decided to give my Sub Tank Mini a try with the RBA base. My first coil ended up at 0.13 Ω and I had to turn it down to 18J - 400º with a thick warm vape. Anml Carnage 70VG/30PG no dry hits and wicking is keeping up like a champ.
This SX Mini has been taking everything I have been throwing at it, and it has been blowing off the doors. Yihi, you did an awesome job!!!
So the big question is, if I lost it today would I buy another? Hell, I didn't even loose it.... and I want to buy another one.
I have been building on my Lemo (all 3) tanks since I got my SX Mini 2 weeks ago and have been getting good results at 0.11 Ω to 0.19 Ω - 24J - 410º to 420º.
I decided to give my Sub Tank Mini a try with the RBA base. My first coil ended up at 0.13 Ω and I had to turn it down to 18J - 400º with a thick warm vape. Anml Carnage 70VG/30PG no dry hits and wicking is keeping up like a champ.
This SX Mini has been taking everything I have been throwing at it, and it has been blowing off the doors. Yihi, you did an awesome job!!!
So the big question is, if I lost it today would I buy another? Hell, I didn't even loose it.... and I want to buy another one.
Whoa....wow!!
I have been building on my Lemo (all 3) tanks since I got my SX Mini 2 weeks ago and have been getting good results at 0.11 Ω to 0.19 Ω - 24J - 410º to 420º.
I decided to give my Sub Tank Mini a try with the RBA base. My first coil ended up at 0.13 Ω and I had to turn it down to 18J - 400º with a thick warm vape. Anml Carnage 70VG/30PG no dry hits and wicking is keeping up like a champ.
This SX Mini has been taking everything I have been throwing at it, and it has been blowing off the doors. Yihi, you did an awesome job!!!
So the big question is, if I lost it today would I buy another? Hell, I didn't even loose it.... and I want to buy another one.
Out of interest what is the build on the ST RBA at 0.13ohms - guage, diameter, wraps etc??
28awg - Tempered NI200 from Stealth Vapes UK - 7wrap SPACED, but tight - 3MM ID - Japanese Cotton, Muji brand.
This was the first build on the ST RBA so I checked the build base - I stuck a small screw driver in the the bottom air hole and gave it a little twist to tighten it up and then screwed it back on to the atomizer base. I also checked for atty conductivity, I took my multi meter and tested the top positive post to the 510 pin, then the top negative post to the atty base screw, and last the positive top post to the negative top post. Everything checked out as it should.
I really like the Sub Tank Mini, my only problem now is I have too many nickel builds and only 1 atty left for Kanthal builds.
I don't see the problem.
when I was with the dna40s I had tanks on ni200 and drippers on kanthal now I have 2 drippers with a dual parallel.build for cloud chasing fun and everything else is on ni200
I don't see the problem.
when I was with the dna40s I had tanks on ni200 and drippers on kanthal now I have 2 drippers with a dual parallel.build for cloud chasing fun and everything else is on ni200
I guess I'm just looking for an excuse to buy another Sub Tank.
Thanks for that. Isnt 0.13 a little high for that build? should be closer to 0.10. Close enough I suppose. If it were kanthal we wouldnt be worrying about a 0.03ohm discrepancy lol!!
The reaseon I asked is that I am running a 0.13ohm build which is 6 wraps of 30 guage around 2.5. Now I am runnig that at 18J and 450F which actually gives a nice but rather cool vape. Its really interesting how subtle the differences are between these builds and their performance. I guess wicking contributes a lot also!
I guess I'm just looking for an excuse to buy another Sub Tank.
I got hold of a spare base and two RBA's so I can have a couple of new builds 'on deck' so to speak, but I could really use another tank also!! Actually I have a spare glass tube so all I need is the top cap and Im good to go but I dont think anyone sells them as a spare!!
cheers
steve
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