SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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Fir3b1rd

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That # is based upon the "ideal" "recommended" build. Variate from that by going up to 0.15, 0.20, 0.30, 0.50 ohms builds and you will be even further off.
that word ideal and being stuck to one resistance is the point that, at least I was trying to make.
the freedom to use any Rt that the user finds best(within a range not 1 number) rather than focusing on what the mod says is where my issue with your argument is. I think you missed the entire point. Telling someone that just dropped a bunch of money on a device that is inarguably the most advanced on the market that they are doing it wrong at a 0.9 resistance because its not 0.065 is like the bratty older brother popping his sisters balloon. And I've see a few do just that, several of us are preferring the vape between 0.8-0.9 after trying the 0.65. And im not so sure about the majority but I really don't have a thermometer with me when I vape so long as the vape is consistent and smooth which this is, no ramp up like the dna40, or temperamental like the dna40.
if they happy with it, just let it be sheesh

oh and while I'm flattered about the hug... I was kidding, its not my thing; but thank you.
 
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peraspera

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Thanks for posting that peraspera I hadn't seen that post previously. I could easily see that degree of tolerance back in January while they were still in development. But we haven't seen anything or heard anything from the manufacture or anywhere else to substantiate any claims to accuracy or tolerance on the public release that I'm aware of.

Hopefully someone will answer your question on the other thread and if they do please link to it here as there seems to be some that will just randomly pick a number of 10%,15% or 20% depending on what post you read and claim it as fact.

For the purposes of troubleshooting, at this point, the 10% margin of error is the most credible number we have although there is no way to know for an absolute certainty if it is spec for the final product. There is no way to know if YiHi decided that was what they wished to use in balancing build/connection forgiveness with absolute temperature accuracy? I wish YiHi would provide temperature accuracy spec information but I've not had any luck getting any technical information from them aside from published specs.

I posted the question in the Varitube thread quite some time ago so I'm not expecting an answer. However, if I do get a reply I will definitely post the link and info in this thread.
 

PapaPro

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Guys, I don't get it. I talk to the MFGs all the time. Why don't you just write to YIHI and ask them how their system works and ask your OHMs questions while you are there? I talked to the head of Saft Lithium to find out about any advances. But I do work sometimes with these companies. But I have never been refussed any tech info from anyone. Waiting for Tesla to get back to me as we speak.

Just an idea. It would be really good if everyone understood what is going on. I don't know enough about this tech or I would do it or send one of my staff to YiHI office to find out. So write a polite and interesting email to YIHI and get some answers. Maybe even point them to this thread :) Simples people
 

HolmanGT

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Guys, I don't get it. I talk to the MFGs all the time. Why don't you just write to YIHI and ask them how their system works and ask your OHMs questions while you are there? I talked to the head of Saft Lithium to find out about any advances. But I do work sometimes with these companies. But I have never been refussed any tech info from anyone. Waiting for Tesla to get back to me as we speak.

Just an idea. It would be really good if everyone understood what is going on. I don't know enough about this tech or I would do it or send one of my staff to YiHI office to find out. So write a polite and interesting email to YIHI and get some answers. Maybe even point them to this thread :) Simples people

PapaPro,

Go to their office. Are you in China? Boy if I was in China I would have more mods in my possession than "VaporDNA" has. ;)

Anyway I agree with you completely about fishing in the pond of origin for answers. The problem I often have with that approach is you never know if you are getting answers from a Technical Expert or someone reading from a Q&A (FAQ) sheet. Sometime you just have to go by what you think is the most reasonable conclusion from the Mfg's. published data. I will say that their must be something magic about 0.065 ohms or they wouldn't have gone to the trouble to publish an updated spec. sheet with 0.065 replacing the mean value and it is also highlighted in the PDF file.

I don't know what the magic is but it could be as simple as with that load (impedance) the PFW circuit fires at a frequency you can't hear. There were a lots of people worried that their SX was malfunction because of the DC to DC converter buzz.

:2c:

PS - I use resistance values all over the spectrum and I get a great vape from the SX. And the couple of times I have tried to hit 0.065 just to see what magic might happen I have never even come close. OK fairly close but if you call 0.085 close. :)
 

PapaPro

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PapaPro,

Go to their office. Are you in China? Boy if I was in China I would have more mods in my possession than "VaporDNA" has. ;)

Anyway I agree with you completely about fishing in the pond of origin for answers. The problem I often have with that approach is you never know if you are getting answers from a Technical Expert or someone reading from a Q&A (FAQ) sheet. Sometime you just have to go by what you think is the most reasonable conclusion from the Mfg's. published data. I will say that their must be something magic about 0.065 ohms or they wouldn't have gone to the trouble to publish an updated spec. sheet with 0.065 replacing the mean value and it is also highlighted in the PDF file.

I don't know what the magic is but it could be as simple as with that load (impedance) the PFW circuit fires at a frequency you can't hear. There were a lots of people worried that their SX was malfunction because of the DC to DC converter buzz.

:2c:

PS - I use resistance values all over the spectrum and I get a great vape from the SX. And the couple of times I have tried to hit 0.065 just to see what magic might happen I have never even come close. OK fairly close but if you call 0.085 close. :)

I am not in the far-east but I have people there. YIHI are a hi-tech company. They have intelegent people working there. Talk to them and I am sure you will be suprised. Most of these companies have skype and you can chat LIVE with them (not sure about yihi). It would be so easy for one of you youtube reviewers to arrange an interview or Q&A session with skype. Just take the simple approach and talk to the face so to speak.

The only reason I see you not getting a good enough repy from YIHI is if you are un reasonable. Just be pro with your approach and as inpartial as possible and you should be good. They want to promote their products. They send samples to reviewers right? I would have a lot of questions before I reviewed someones products. If the company will not talk, then they would not get a review from me. Not that I would ever review someones product. People review mine!

Youtube reviewers.....Lazy if you ask me... ;)
 

Vlad1

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Dude, The 10% was EXACTLY the number I had stated. It is also the number shown in the FLIR that PB used in his video in APRIL.

Yes you did state 10%.
There is a +/- degree of error in the device. It has been tested @ approx 10%.

As well as 15% - 20%
Fantastic? Your device is OFF at a minimum of up to 15%-20%.

But heck.... Nows its only me, PB, varitube and yihi. Guess you need more proof?
As for the empirical data you think you see in the FLIR on Pbusardo's video, I've already explained to you why that's only a representation.

And as for Varitube referencing a "Development" product in January?????? And Yihi that I've already dissected for you. I'm really at a loss of how you can misinterpret on such a high level. I've repeatedly requested you to point me to some conclusive information that substantiate your claims and you continue to direct me to either inaccurate, misinterpreted or outdated posts of "Development" products and even stating that your results are being measured from the same device you claim is inaccurate. "Wouldn't using a device that's inaccurate to measure itself be inaccurate to begin with?"

Yihi Statement you reference repeatedly. Again please point out what I'm overlooking that states anything at all to do with "calibration" or "error" that your referencing. I've dissected it in case English is not your primary language.
Let's dissect the statement you are referencing.

"Because the technology of M Class is the newest, and supports lower sub-ohm resistance, we suggest a 0.06-0.12 ohm base on Temco Ni-200. You can get the PERFECT experinces when you build the atomizer with the resistance 0.06ohm. However, if using the resistance above 0.3 ohm or Khanthal atomizers there will be variance and some unexpected behaviors may be observed in Joule mode.

1.) Suggest .06 - .12Ω Temco Ni-200
2.) You can get Perfect experience at .06Ω
3.) Don't build over device specs of .3Ω
4.) Don't use Kanthal in Joule mode
5.) You will see variance and unexpected behaviors if you build over spec of .3Ω or use unsupported wire "Kanthal" in Joule Mode.

So not one mention of +/- percent of accuracy or calibration of any type from what I can see. They do point out explicitly to use the appropriate type of wire and within the device specifications
. Now while I do know it's common to have +/- a percentage of tolerance in most electronic components I fail to see where you have provided any substantiating proof of your claims.

FYI.. I have not stated you are incorrect or correct only that you have not provided one piece of "Objective" data to substantiate your claims only your conclusion based on that inaccurate, misinterpreted or outdated information.
 

Vlad1

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Guys I need some help :(

So, I have six authentic Kayfun V4 decks and two tanks. All with the S kit with gold spring (my problem I think?). I have had nothing but trouble with every one. I am so fed-up to say the least. £500 it cost me. And now my vaping budget from Jan of this year is nearly 2k!!! All I wanted to do was stop smoking. Anyway, I am a little ...... off. I am also realising that MOST reviewers are talking BS. Such a lesson to learn.

So, my V4s were my way out. They are the only tanks I get a vape I like. But they seem floored. I ultrasonicly cleaned all my decks yesterday. Stripped them down and even cleaned the springs. Then did the OHMs test of building a deck and testing the OMS over time. The fluctuations are driving me nuts! I get anything between 0.250 to 0.068 with a six wrap coil using every wire known to man. I have everything. And I am certain it's the V4s and not the device.

Yesterday I ordered some Subtank coils. They arrived today. Testing they are giving me a consistant 0.15 OHMs every time. But I needed some more tanks to test to be sure so I got out my drippers. My Marque is giving me 0.068 as are my Vicious Ants (way cool drippers btw). So they are all working great. But none of them give me the same vape I get from my V4s when they work.

Not sure what to do. I have meetings all day so cannot bring a dripper into the room. But as I am the boss, I can vape where I like. My Subtanks leak. I need reliability. So I want to try and get my V4s working. But how? Is it a floored design? I had the same issues in regular watt mode with Kanthal. Very inconsistant readings. And I tried to blame the devices as I was told in every review how wonderful the V4s are.

Oh I am ...... off. I could rip someones head off right now with my bare hands. Grrrrrrrrrrrr.... Anyone have any advise? I really need some hope :(

Btw, you are all idiots. The M CLass uses Mexican Wave!!!!

Where do your Subtanks leak from? I have 2 Subtank mini and no leaks at all or for that matter even any condensation. I have heard some leaking but I'm not really sure where from? Coming from the Fogger's I always had to wipe down the device top due to condensation and spit back through the air channels. Not any with the Subtank mini's for me.
 
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PapaPro

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Where do your Subtanks leak from? I have 2 Subtank mini and no leaks at all or for that matter even any condensation. I have heard some leaking but I'm not really sure where from? Coming from the Fogger's I always had to wipe down the device top due to condensation and spit back through the air channels. Not any with the Subtank mini's for me.

I have three sub tanks all direct from Kangertech. I did have a little chat with them and it seems I have the early (first batch) of each. And there was a problem with the o rings not seated correctly. I have a new one in the box just arrived and will give it another try. I also now have some Kanger Ni200 coils (latest batch) but I am loathed to give up on my Kayfuns. So for now I will try the new spring thing and take it from there.

So pleased you all are enjoying your sub tanks. They are a wonderfully simplistic design. I do like that in a design. So I will take another look at some point. But first my V4s. Nothing comes close to the perfomance I want. So that is my plan for now. I like mouth to lung vapes. That maybe another issue I may run across with this new tech.

Much appreciated you all taking the time on me. I am getting there :)
 
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BNEAT

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I have three sub tanks all direct from Kangertech. I did have a little chat with them and it seems I have the early (first batch) of each. And there was a problem with the o rings not seated correctly. I have a new one in the box just arrived and will give it another try. I also now have some Kanger Ni200 coils (latest batch) but I am loathed to give up on my Kayfuns. So for now I will try the new spring thing and take it from there.

So pleased you all are enjoying your sub tanks. They are a wonderfully simplistic design. I do like that in a design. So I will take another look at some point. But first my V4s. Nothing comes close to the perfomance I want. So that is my plan for now. I like mouth to lung vapes. That maybe another issue I may run across with this new tech.

Much appreciated you all taking the time on me. I am getting there :)

Give this thread a look. (it's where all the cool kids hang out) :)
SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4 | E-Cigarette Forum
 

Vlad1

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I have three sub tanks all direct from Kangertech. I did have a little chat with them and it seems I have the early (first batch) of each. And there was a problem with the o rings not seated correctly. I have a new one in the box just arrived and will give it another try. I also now have some Kanger Ni200 coils (latest batch) but I am loathed to give up on my Kayfuns. So for now I will try the new spring thing and take it from there.

So pleased you all are enjoying your sub tanks. They are a wonderfully simplistic design. I do like that in a design. So I will take another look at some point. But first my V4s. Nothing comes close to the perfomance I want. So that is my plan for now. I like mouth to lung vapes. That maybe another issue I may run across with this new tech.

Much appreciated you all taking the time on me. I am getting there :)

Well if you cant get the V4's working to your liking I know the Subtank mini does have different afc base's. The second Subtank mini I received has a 4th air flow hole slightly smaller than all the rest which is pretty tight IMO, maybe a good mouth to lung?? The first one I purchased only had 3 air holes and 1 that was blocked. I do direct lung so I'm usually at either widest or second to widest openings.
 
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HolmanGT

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I am not in the far-east but I have people there. YIHI are a hi-tech company. They have intelegent people working there. Talk to them and I am sure you will be suprised. Most of these companies have skype and you can chat LIVE with them (not sure about yihi). It would be so easy for one of you youtube reviewers to arrange an interview or Q&A session with skype. Just take the simple approach and talk to the face so to speak.

The only reason I see you not getting a good enough repy from YIHI is if you are un reasonable. Just be pro with your approach and as inpartial as possible and you should be good. They want to promote their products. They send samples to reviewers right? I would have a lot of questions before I reviewed someones products. If the company will not talk, then they would not get a review from me. Not that I would ever review someones product. People review mine!

Youtube reviewers.....Lazy if you ask me... ;)

PapaPro,

Now you really have peaked my interest in whom the person behind your screen name is. I would willing accept a PM if you don't want to say publicly. :) I mean "I have people in Asia" and "people usually review my products" that should be enough to stir anyone's curiosity.

Oh - and again I have no argument with what you are saying. At my age I learned a long time ago not to give Company Reps a bad time even if I am mad as He!!. That tact never ever worked for me. ;)

Oh by the way I agree about a lot of the YouTube reviews when I guy/gal gives a review and doesn't know how the devices works it just makes me say Hmmm...

Also I have absolutely no complaints with the SX-M and/or YiHi. (Knock on wood).

Now I am off to see what company I can find your Avatar pic associated with. My worst enemy - CURIOSTY.
 

PapaPro

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PapaPro,

Now you really have peaked my interest in whom the person behind your screen name is. I would willing accept a PM if you don't want to say publicly. :) I mean "I have people in Asia" and "people usually review my products" that should be enough to stir anyone's curiosity.

Oh - and again I have no argument with what you are saying. At my age I learned a long time ago not to give Company Reps a bad time even if I am mad as He!!. That tact never ever worked for me. ;)

Oh by the way I agree about a lot of the YouTube reviews when I guy/gal gives a review and doesn't know how the devices works it just makes me say Hmmm...

Also I have absolutely no complaints with the SX-M and/or YiHi. (Knock on wood).

Now I am off to see what company I can find your Avatar pic associated with. My worst enemy - CURIOSTY.

My name is Richard Papa. No secret there. One of the best products I was involved with was Optibike. I was the UK distributor. Now I design, produce and supply flying machines. Nothing remotely related to this tech. So best we not go too off-topic.

I am just someone who desperately wants to give up smoking. So bad I am posting on this forum :)
 
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dannyben

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that word ideal and being stuck to one resistance is the point that, at least I was trying to make.
the freedom to use any Rt that the user finds best(within a range not 1 number) rather than focusing on what the mod says is where my issue with your argument is. I think you missed the entire point. Telling someone that just dropped a bunch of money on a device that is inarguably the most advanced on the market that they are doing it wrong at a 0.9 resistance because its not 0.065 is like the bratty older brother popping his sisters balloon. And I've see a few do just that, several of us are preferring the vape between 0.8-0.9 after trying the 0.65. And im not so sure about the majority but I really don't have a thermometer with me when I vape so long as the vape is consistent and smooth which this is, no ramp up like the dna40, or temperamental like the dna40.
if they happy with it, just let it be sheesh

oh and while I'm flattered about the hug... I was kidding, its not my thing; but thank you.

LOL. I didn't say one MUST use the device at and only at 0.065. Only that that is where the device is MOST accurate. Thats is where it the device's algorithms are based. You will have (to 99% at least of the people) a perfect good and close "enough" experience building between 0.06 - 0.09.

My reason again for this post was soley for the pages of people/posts wondering why their device was acting "funny" at build 0.015 and higher. But if they are happy with their vape at those numbers, well GREAT. If they aren't well, follow the manufacturers directions.

Yes you did state 10%.


As well as 15% - 20%

No... Perhaps this is your problem and you can't understand the English you say that i cant. I said the device is accurate within 10%. That is when you have the unit with a 0.065 build and calibrated. Run the device with a 0.15, 0.20, 0.30, 0.50ohm build and that percentage will increase and increase the further you go from YIHI'S recommended build.

As for the empirical data you think you see in the FLIR on Pbusardo's video, I've already explained to you why that's only a representation.

And because you said it and I read it on the internet, it's true! See the moon/planet. Silly me. Despite all the evidence pointing to the contrary.

For the last time, since you refuse to read..... My source is from CONTACTING yihi directly. It is all backed up by the FLIR results too (no matter how many excuses you want to make for why your WISH is more accurate then MULTIPLE FLIR tests, by MULTIPLE people) as well as by simply LOOKING at your device and SEEING the temperature readout RISE to OVER your SET LIMIT (not to forget higher ohms builds never even getting to the set limit). I quoted and sent you directly to yihi's site to see their "advice", but you still want to say they are wrong.

If you don;t want to believe the information I RECEIVED from YIHI then ask them YOURSELF....like i did. Or don't. But stop telling people their units are working perfectly and accurately with 0.20ohm builds when they are not and there are pages and pages or posts here from people asking for help because they can't get those builds to work.

It's quite simple.... Use a build under 0.10ohms and you'll be quite pleased with the results. Build it even closer to 0.065 and you'll get the most accurate experience from your mini. PERIOD.
 

peraspera

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Guys, I don't get it. I talk to the MFGs all the time. Why don't you just write to YIHI and ask them how their system works and ask your OHMs questions while you are there? I talked to the head of Saft Lithium to find out about any advances. But I do work sometimes with these companies. But I have never been refussed any tech info from anyone. Waiting for Tesla to get back to me as we speak.

Just an idea. It would be really good if everyone understood what is going on. I don't know enough about this tech or I would do it or send one of my staff to YiHI office to find out. So write a polite and interesting email to YIHI and get some answers. Maybe even point them to this thread :) Simples people

It would be very helpful for troubleshooting purposes to have temperature accuracy specs from YiHi for at least their recommended oHm build range. Specifics as to what they mean by "some unexpected behaviors" for 3+ oHm builds would also be useful to know. Since you have staff on the ground it would be a welcome contribution to the community if you could have them get at least that bit of information.

YiHi's owner/lead engineer does not speak any English. All of YiHi's large manufacturing customers who would need technical information are Chinese. The people doing YiHi's communication in English are sales people not techs.
 
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HolmanGT

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My name is Richard Papa. No secret there. One of the best products I was involved with was Optibike. I was the UK distributor. Now I design, produce and supply flying machines. Nothing remotely related to this tech. So best we not go too off-topic.

I am just someone who desperately wants to give up smoking. So bad I am posting on this forum :)

OK PapaPro,

I had vision of someone like the guy behind ProVape or Zen Pro... ;)

Are you smoke free now or still the occasional cig? In any case for me it took maybe as much as a month to switch completely. I didn't make any special effort Vaping just took over the cigs on it's own. One night I was out of cigs and thought darn I'll have to run to the store and then found myself saying well I have my Mod and I can wait till morning. That was the last time I bought any cigarettes - Thank God, because I had tried everything else imaginable.
 
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Vlad1

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LOL. I didn't say one MUST use the device at and only at 0.065. Only that that is where the device is MOST accurate. Thats is where it the device's algorithms are based. You will have (to 99% at least of the people) a perfect good and close "enough" experience building between 0.06 - 0.09.

My reason again for this post was soley for the pages of people/posts wondering why their device was acting "funny" at build 0.015 and higher. But if they are happy with their vape at those numbers, well GREAT. If they aren't well, follow the manufacturers directions.



No... Perhaps this is your problem and you can't understand the English you say that i cant. I said the device is accurate within 10%. That is when you have the unit with a 0.065 build and calibrated. Run the device with a 0.15, 0.20, 0.30, 0.50ohm build and that percentage will increase and increase the further you go from YIHI'S recommended build.



And because you said it and I read it on the internet, it's true! See the moon/planet. Silly me. Despite all the evidence pointing to the contrary.

For the last time, since you refuse to read..... My source is from CONTACTING yihi directly. It is all backed up by the FLIR results too (no matter how many excuses you want to make for why your WISH is more accurate then MULTIPLE FLIR tests, by MULTIPLE people) as well as by simply LOOKING at your device and SEEING the temperature readout RISE to OVER your SET LIMIT (not to forget higher ohms builds never even getting to the set limit). I quoted and sent you directly to yihi's site to see their "advice", but you still want to say they are wrong.

If you don;t want to believe the information I RECEIVED from YIHI then ask them YOURSELF....like i did. Or don't. But stop telling people their units are working perfectly and accurately with 0.20ohm builds when they are not and there are pages and pages or posts here from people asking for help because they can't get those builds to work.

It's quite simple.... Use a build under 0.10ohms and you'll be quite pleased with the results. Build it even closer to 0.065 and you'll get the most accurate experience from your mini. PERIOD.

And again you have not answered my specific questions. I've shown you at least 3 times what Yihi Site states but for whatever reason you have some inclination to misinterpret it into your own thinking.

Here it is in short explanation. "DO NOT USE KANTHAL OR BUILD OVER SPECIFICATIONS OF .3Ω WHEN IN JOULE MODE"

However, if using the resistance above 0.3 ohm or Khanthal atomizers there will be variance and some unexpected behaviors may be observed in Joule mode.

1.) Suggest .06 - .12Ω Temco Ni-200
2.) You can get Perfect experience at .06Ω
3.) Don't build over device specs of .3Ω
4.) Don't use Kanthal in Joule mode
5.) You will see variance and unexpected behaviors if you build over spec of .3Ω or use unsupported wire "Kanthal" in Joule Mode.

I'm done asking you to provide substantiating information in support of your claims that you clearly do not have.
 
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