SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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JimScotty0

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Not recommended, @JimScotty0.

I run dual coils exclusively now (4 Aromamzers). 26 awg is the lowest I go having initially thought 24 awg a possibility.
I have 2 Aromamizers too and would use it on them as well as other attys too. How about their 25ga? Is the reason you use the 26ga due to the total resistance being too low or another reason?
 

jazzvaper

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I have 2 Aromamizers too and would use it on them as well as other attys too. How about their 25ga? Is the reason you use the 26ga due to the total resistance being too low or another reason?
I use 27awg and 26 awg in my Aromamizers for duals, and, in single coil K4's, SqRs's, and GEM.

It gets a bit tricky with 26 awg. 27 awg is a BEAUTIFUL compromise between 26 @ 28 awg. I now use 26 awg only when I want (for whatever strange reason [emoji41]) to get low resistance, down at 0.13 Ω.
 

Landman

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I have 2 Aromamizers too and would use it on them as well as other attys too. How about their 25ga? Is the reason you use the 26ga due to the total resistance being too low or another reason?
I've got 25 & 27 awg and for all our 'mizers, I use 27 awg. In the Serpents and Bachelors, I use 25 awg for a single coil. I've made some dual's with 25 awg and at 3 mm 9.5 wraps, it comes in at ~0.16 ohms so it's not too low. Wrapping on a #/32 bolt leaves the coils spaced too far apart. I found a 3.5M bolt that leaves the ID of a coil right around 2.8-3 mm and the wrap spacing is very close - about .25 mm. Using that, I can fit another wrap or two in and keep the ohms up with 25 awg. But really, anything lower than 26 awg starts taking a bit too long to cool off for my liking. I'll be getting some 26 awg for the single coil tanks soon.
 

h00ligan

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24ga seems to be my sweetspot with Ti. Have you used their NiFe48 with 24ga for dual coil attys?

I don't run dual coil all that often and when I do it's squonking or dripping. Not typically in temp
Mode. I'm usually mtl vaper so I typically stick
To either 28,26, twisted 38, or Clapton wire. That said the nife48 in 26 running dual would work
Fine. As it would in 24 if it's offered. The resistance is more than high enough to handle it. And he curve is great. So I don't really see what the issue is.

I find the curve of titanium not to be great and I personally don't like the flavor. I don't find ti to vape evenly nor do I think the temp is accurate using the built in setting for titanium. My numbers are way different than when j use other wires which seem much more in line with expectations.


Not recommended, @JimScotty0.

I run dual coils exclusively now (4 Aromamzers). 26 awg is the lowest I go having initially thought 24 awg a possibility.

You're talking specifically about NiFe48 from zipif rift jazz? Why wouldn't you run dual 24? I mean if the resistance stays above minimum
With a build - take too long to heat?

I use some 24/32 Claptons in my aromamizer squonk here and there without issue so why would it be an issue? The downside of The Clapton is it takes a while to heat but the flavor is good. The upside is man they last forever. I don't see a fundamental issue with dual coil 24
Gauge build at all - but I'll defer to your expertise as I said I don't vape lung hits much. Sometimes do dual Coil it's in my Aqua v2 authentic but due to deck and vape style it's just dual 28.

Overall the zipif nife48 resistance is lower than titanium on the same build but it's quite high enough for dual coil builds down to 24 gauge id think. Given the minimum resistance of .05 ohm. So I'm curious. I didn't quite catch if you were totaling about wire in general or specifically the wire I mentioned that I took he was specifically asking about.
 
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h00ligan

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I split this off as its a second and third question.


Has a final Firmware been released for the m class with manual tcr? I'm Running what I think
Is the latest beta and it's a mess. I rely on manual entries for almost everything now that I use regularly in temp Control so I can't revert to a firmware without it. I don't have this issue on my boxer running the same beta firmware same chip. I hope this isn't an issue with my device.

Symptom

I very often get the backwards screen thing going. Which for those who haven't seen it looks like this (orientation is right side up. As you'd typically vape - shot in the dark for a clearer view. It's freaking weird)

545b333877a31760972de71e2bd4a97d.jpg


Edit. I did receive a confirmation for the end cap order. My bad
 
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JimScotty0

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I split this off as its a second and third question.


Has a final Firmware been released for the m class with manual tcr? I'm Running what I think
Is the latest beta and it's a mess. I rely on manual entries for almost everything now that I use regularly in temp Control so I can't revert to a firmware without it. I don't have this issue on my boxer running the same beta firmware same chip. I hope this isn't an issue with my device.

Symptom

I very often get the backwards screen thing going. Which for those who haven't seen it looks like this (orientation is right side up. As you'd typically vape - shot in the dark for a clearer view. It's freaking weird)

545b333877a31760972de71e2bd4a97d.jpg


Edit. I did receive a confirmation for the end cap order. My bad
@h00ligan this is the latest firmware for the M class but the screen image you posted is something that we are seeing on the ML class with the v2.206 firmware. I have never heard of that being reported on the M class.

For M-Class-75W-English-V2.32-TCR&Temp Compensate&SS wire-20151010

I would doubt there would be any further versions than this one for the M class.
 

h00ligan

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@h00ligan this is the latest firmware for the M class but the screen image you posted is something that we are seeing on the ML class with the v2.206 firmware. I have never heard of that being reported on the M class.

For M-Class-75W-English-V2.32-TCR&Temp Compensate&SS wire-20151010

I would doubt there would be any further versions than this one for the M class.
Yah that's the one I grabbed I believe. Thank you. I'll go look up the key combo and edit this to confirm but I'm 99%. Anyway yes it's a m class not ml. I believe the m class and boxer and point for point identical internally. I also know there's a firmware for any mod using the chip 1 somewhere on that page. In going to report this issue with the m class as well. If there's a way to. Also
Disappointing they won't restore the properly power and give the features. I don't understand why they reduced the power output for this firmware tbh. If they squash it with the ml and see the same issue with m class. Then maybe the'll update.

Any idea if there's a direct support email listed specific to the beta feedback?
 

Vlad1

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Yah that's the one I grabbed I believe. Thank you. I'll go look up the key combo and edit this to confirm but I'm 99%. Anyway yes it's a m class not ml. I believe the m class and boxer and point for point identical internally. I also know there's a firmware for any mod using the chip 1 somewhere on that page. In going to report this issue with the m class as well. If there's a way to. Also
Disappointing they won't restore the properly power and give the features. I don't understand why they reduced the power output for this firmware tbh. If they squash it with the ml and see the same issue with m class. Then maybe the'll update.

Any idea if there's a direct support email listed specific to the beta feedback?

If your running the test version of firmware they asked for feedback to be sent to admin@yihisxmini.com you could cc to cservice@yihisxmini.com as well, I've had reply's to both. With your correspondence be clear on what device your using or having a problem with as the firmware versions are slightly different. If it's a Boxer, Ginger may be modifying the firmware for their logo I'm not for sure.

upload_2016-2-13_11-22-13.png
 
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h00ligan

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Thanks id missed that. I mailed the typical brill resend to the admin address. Im sorry for a series of questions I should have had the answers to.


There's a general firmware with no logo and ginger version. Fwiw.

I'm worried there's more than a logo difference though. Worried or brick the m class by using general firmware. I may try to go down again then upgrade. See if maybe flashing has something tondo with it. Doubtful. But if nobody else with the m class has this something has to be going on.
 

h00ligan

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By the way this is the other kind of screen corruption I get. I can't make it through more than half a battery without seeing one or the other. Why is this bets firmware so bad on mine? Surely others with the k class running bets firmware must be having issues like this. They're all the same hardware

Similar to the backwards but more corruption

3ab50a0b77c4e6bd48362609f29f92ac.jpg
 

Vlad1

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By the way this is the other kind of screen corruption I get. I can't make it through more than half a battery without seeing one or the other. Why is this bets firmware so bad on mine? Surely others with the k class running bets firmware must be having issues like this. They're all the same hardware

Similar to the backwards but more corruption

3ab50a0b77c4e6bd48362609f29f92ac.jpg

There were some reports early on with the M class with displays similar to what your showing. The reports were there was 1 out of 100k devices that would do that and was a result of corrupt firmware if I recall correctly. The fix was to update the firmware. If yours is doing that after updating your firmware I'd suggest you get with your vendor and warranty it before you run out of the warranty period. What exactly is "bets firmware"?
 

h00ligan

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There were some reports early on with the M class with displays similar to what your showing. The reports were there was 1 out of 100k devices that would do that and was a result of corrupt firmware if I recall correctly. The fix was to update the firmware. If yours is doing that after updating your firmware I'd suggest you get with your vendor and warranty it before you run out of the warranty period. What exactly is "bets firmware"?
Sorry. Typo. Sometimes iOS corrects things that would really be better off just left with a mild typo. Probably time to reset learned keyboard stuff. Recovering from double spine surgery so the hands are improving but not great. Can't use a computer right now.

Thanks for the info. I'll try a downgrade and then upgrade.
 

2legsshrt

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I don't run dual coil all that often and when I do it's squonking or dripping. Not typically in temp
Mode. I'm usually mtl vaper so I typically stick
To either 28,26, twisted 38, or Clapton wire. That said the nife48 in 26 running dual would work
Fine. As it would in 24 if it's offered. The resistance is more than high enough to handle it. And he curve is great. So I don't really see what the issue is.

I find the curve of titanium not to be great and I personally don't like the flavor. I don't find ti to vape evenly nor do I think the temp is accurate using the built in setting for titanium. My numbers are way different than when j use other wires which seem much more in line with expectations.




You're talking specifically about NiFe48 from zipif rift jazz? Why wouldn't you run dual 24? I mean if the resistance stays above minimum
With a build - take too long to heat?

I use some 24/32 Claptons in my aromamizer squonk here and there without issue so why would it be an issue? The downside of The Clapton is it takes a while to heat but the flavor is good. The upside is man they last forever. I don't see a fundamental issue with dual coil 24
Gauge build at all - but I'll defer to your expertise as I said I don't vape lung hits much. Sometimes do dual Coil it's in my Aqua v2 authentic but due to deck and vape style it's just dual 28.

Overall the zipif nife48 resistance is lower than titanium on the same build but it's quite high enough for dual coil builds down to 24 gauge id think. Given the minimum resistance of .05 ohm. So I'm curious. I didn't quite catch if you were totaling about wire in general or specifically the wire I mentioned that I took he was specifically asking about.
I see Vape Mesh is carrying it now, got an email the other day. That is the NiFe 52 or 48 however you want to say it.
 

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Hi Guys, and Gals,
I picked up the Kooper Plus a week ago and found it reasonable for the price but the battery cover rattles and needs to be tighter. Today I received my Wismec Reuleaux 200 with their own board not the DNA 200 version which I also tried and found that it chewed up 40A continious discharge batteries a lot quicker than the Wismec board and the Reuleaux DNA 200 was a heck of a lot more expensive. I only paid $75AUD for my Reuleaux and I would honestly venture an opinion that the Reuleaux 200 by Wismec is far superior to the Kooper Plus. No rattles in the magnetic cover, 3x 18650 batteries as opposed to 2 in the Kooper Plus, and great additional features like being able in TC mode to set your maximum wattage for its ramp up power. Sure you can do the same in the Kooper plus with its "Min, Normal and Max ramp up modes but I find the Reuleaux a lot more user friendly and easier to use. As I write this now, I am running a Griffin RBA tank with twin home made clapton coils @ .22 ohms and the taste and cloud is fantastic. I would recommend the Reuleaux 200 as opposed to the Reuleaux DNA 200. I was also at my vape store today and even the manager of the store showed me his Reuleaux DNA 200 and he bought it as a test mod and said he would not bother stocking them as the Reuleaux 200 was a damn side cheaper and performs a lot better. I note on some FB pages the DNA 200 is now being sold off as new but I certainly would not pay their asking price.

Just my 2c worth. Vape and be happy.

Acer 50
 

Vlad1

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Sorry. Typo. Sometimes iOS corrects things that would really be better off just left with a mild typo. Probably time to reset learned keyboard stuff. Recovering from double spine surgery so the hands are improving but not great. Can't use a computer right now.

Thanks for the info. I'll try a downgrade and then upgrade.

Ahh I understand now. :) Hope your recovery goes quickly for you.
 

Hitcat44

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Hi Guys, and Gals,
I picked up the Kooper Plus a week ago and found it reasonable for the price but the battery cover rattles and needs to be tighter. Today I received my Wismec Reuleaux 200 with their own board not the DNA 200 version which I also tried and found that it chewed up 40A continious discharge batteries a lot quicker than the Wismec board and the Reuleaux DNA 200 was a heck of a lot more expensive. I only paid $75AUD for my Reuleaux and I would honestly venture an opinion that the Reuleaux 200 by Wismec is far superior to the Kooper Plus. No rattles in the magnetic cover, 3x 18650 batteries as opposed to 2 in the Kooper Plus, and great additional features like being able in TC mode to set your maximum wattage for its ramp up power. Sure you can do the same in the Kooper plus with its "Min, Normal and Max ramp up modes but I find the Reuleaux a lot more user friendly and easier to use. As I write this now, I am running a Griffin RBA tank with twin home made clapton coils @ .22 ohms and the taste and cloud is fantastic. I would recommend the Reuleaux 200 as opposed to the Reuleaux DNA 200. I was also at my vape store today and even the manager of the store showed me his Reuleaux DNA 200 and he bought it as a test mod and said he would not bother stocking them as the Reuleaux 200 was a damn side cheaper and performs a lot better. I note on some FB pages the DNA 200 is now being sold off as new but I certainly would not pay their asking price.

Just my 2c worth. Vape and be happy.

Acer 50

:?:
 
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