SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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You can lock the screen rotation in the main menu under 'display' by selecting 'left' or 'right'. As stated on pbusardo's review on the s class, there's a bug where display keeps showing 'left' when it's actually 'auto'. Just ignore it and scroll thru the selection.
This will freeze the display to whichever setting you have selected. The accelerator will still work.
18.7A if it's hitting the full 33j. Max load on a SX350j in Joules mode should be dead on 20A at 40J at 0.1 ohm. That's all assuming a 1:1 correlation between Joules and Watts.
28.8A load at 40j on a 0.05 ohm load.
All within spec for the pulse rating of a 25r/HE2/HE4/VTC4/VTC5.
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This may be helpful:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/forum-how-tos/666330-xen-foro-tips-tricks.html
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So 25rs should be safe with any ni200 buid you throw at it on the SX Mini given its resistance range?
Got a response from Yihi 7 hours ago but was out and about with the wife....helping some still having issues due to the OKC Bombing of 1995.... but here is the jest of their reply re the noise/buzz....
They say the hum is normal and not to worry
and in Joule's mode , the chip is controlling the temp constantly, there is a slight hum the way it is working, and they say it is normal.
Response by Cari from Yihi....
They say the hum is normal and not to worry
and in Joule's mode , the chip is controlling the temp constantly, there is a slight hum the way it is working, and they say it is normal.
Response by Cari from Yihi....
The SX is by far the best mod I've purchased, the vapor sharks are sitting in the corner.........
Thanks for the info. So that means the people saying theirs doesn't make the noise are just unable to hear it.
Done the up/down reset.. Everything fine now!!
Thanx
Id was 3mm.. Too big also ;( now using id 2.5.
My response from Yihi about buzzing.
Under the Joule mold, the chip controling the temp constantly, there is a slight hum on the way working, this is normal no worry about it.
Would you pls kindly let me know the resistance of your wire, it is Ni-200 ?
Becauase the technology of M Class is the newest, which support the lower subohm. What we suggest is 0.06-0.12 ohm. You can get the perfect experinces when you build the atomizer with the resistance 0.06ohm. However, if using the resistance above 0.3 ohm or Khanthal atomizers. Because the chip will not match with them, will caused some unexpecation appearance like slight sounds...
Under the Joule mold, the chip controling the temp constantly, there is a slight hum on the way working, this is normal no worry about it.
Would you pls kindly let me know the resistance of your wire, it is Ni-200 ?
Becauase the technology of M Class is the newest, which support the lower subohm. What we suggest is 0.06-0.12 ohm. You can get the perfect experinces when you build the atomizer with the resistance 0.06ohm. However, if using the resistance above 0.3 ohm or Khanthal atomizers. Because the chip will not match with them, will caused some unexpecation appearance like slight sounds...
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I have had my M-Class for about a week now, so I felt compelled to post my experience. I absolutely love this mod! The TC, while not all the kinks are worked out, is lightyears ahead of the DNA40 in my Hana V4d. The set and forget resistance is brilliant, no more jumping resistance resulting in burnt hits. The screen is fantastic and the menu system is quick and intuative. I didn't think that I would like the gesture control, but that works well and you get the hang of it fast.
The build quality is fantastic. Solid, weighty and a pleasure to hold. There are a couple areas of minor fit issues around the C-frame, but nothing major as others have pointed out. Everything else is stellar.
The only negative has been battery life. I am using VTC4s since they meet the chips amperage requirements. They will last me about a half a day of heavy vaping. But this is a minor complaint.
All said and done, I wouldn't mine having 2 of these and getting rid of my other mods. Just a fantastic little device. I'm interested in my Busardo reports, but it won't change my opinion that this is a winner!
Here it is sitting with my UD Goblin on top. Great looker!
The build quality is fantastic. Solid, weighty and a pleasure to hold. There are a couple areas of minor fit issues around the C-frame, but nothing major as others have pointed out. Everything else is stellar.
The only negative has been battery life. I am using VTC4s since they meet the chips amperage requirements. They will last me about a half a day of heavy vaping. But this is a minor complaint.
All said and done, I wouldn't mine having 2 of these and getting rid of my other mods. Just a fantastic little device. I'm interested in my Busardo reports, but it won't change my opinion that this is a winner!
Here it is sitting with my UD Goblin on top. Great looker!
If you want to be 100% confident in the safety of your battery in the Mini go back to SteamEngine. Select the battery tab. Select your battery preset from the drop down menu. Select APV. Select voltage control. Input the base resistance that you locked in after attaching your atomizer. Fire your device and note the highest voltage that it outputs at your chosen joules level. Input this number into the volts window on the left side of the page. On the right side of the page input the lowest level you discharge your battery to before recharging in the volts window and check the results for amp headroom.
Yea I did that and it says it is using 27 amps and 72.9 watts under "Atomizer" and 22 amps with 12% headroom at 4.2V under "Amp Limit". How do I know this is accurate if I'm using Joules?
How is this using 72 watts? I know the DNA 40 is different, but I never go above 35watts on that.
The mini will limit the output in single battery mode to 60 watts with a Kanthal build and 50 joules on Ni200. If you go down on the left hand voltage number until you hit 60 watts at the atomizer, you know the device will limit the amp draw to the corresponding result at maximum output. As far as I know, there isn't a calculator that is currently configured to work with joules and I would be hesitant to assume that joules equal watts. When I run the numbers for AW 2200 mAh and Sony VTC4s and the settings I use on my device I end up with plenty of headroom. Ultimately, I feel comfortable using 20 amp batteries at moderate settings and safer still using 35 amp batteries at higher settings.
Agreed. That's exactly why I said in the previous post that I don't think it is accurate due to the way it is setup (watts not joules). I'm using .1ohm at 33J with 25rs. I have VTC4 as well that I have been using, but I got the 25rs today to see how much better battery life I can get out of it. I know 25rs can pulse to 35amps.
Hopefully the math is figured out on this or YiHi can release some type of calculator so we know. They do recommend not using anything under 25amps, so maybe that is the limit.
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