They've been doing it for quite a while. Yihi used to offer custom logo's I believe and some folks hacked in to change it but if they find out it's been hacked that's grounds to void the warranty.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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They've been doing it for quite a while. Yihi used to offer custom logo's I believe and some folks hacked in to change it but if they find out it's been hacked that's grounds to void the warranty.
Vlad try another. Is that where you got yours? Occasionally I don't get an answer but most of the time I do. I know if you start a conversation he doesn't like it when you start a new one just go to the old one and add another reply. I would send him another though if you have one of the ones he was talking about.
This is so true! Guide rods make building dual coils a breeze. And I noticed that the coils don't get gunky as fast. I have mine setup at 28ga/6wraps/4mm ID/0.052/415F/50J/Standard, and it vapes like a dream!Marquis dripper. Hands down. Ni200 duals are pain on any atty (for me at least), but the included building rods that lock into place ensure that you don't have long legs and both builds are consistent. I still prefer single coils for ease and a bit cooler vape, but this build never went above 450° at 40j with the airflow wide open (2.5mm, same as the widest on the Origen v3). I believe it ohmed at .068.
So Vlad what do you think of getting some 26awg from temco instead of stealth. I figure I can hit that .065 with 7 wraps and have plenty of the wick covered and see if the .065 makes that big a diff. I hate to get 100' if I don't like it but the price per foot goes down considerably with that much. I have plenty of 28. Anybody what do you think of regular NI200 compared to tempered. I know it made a big diff on the coils I tried to build on the DNA which I never really succeeded at but on this one I have one on regular one on tempered and they were both easy to build.
I know that 26 takes a little more poop to heat up then 28 or at least it does with Kanthal
Not sure. Haven't tried any stealth I'm using 28g from Temco and like it fine. Personally I'm liking it more up around the .09Ω - .13Ω better. I think there's a lot of hoopla about the .065Ω personally. Would the device be more efficient there? Probably / possibly idk but my vapor is better to me at a bit higher resistance than that. I think it has to do with the amount of surface contact of wick to coil area but idk for sure I just like it better there.
I'm with you on that. That's why I was thinking of the 26 plenty of wick covered and you could still hit the .065 but the .9 with 28 has a better flavor to me.Not sure. Haven't tried any stealth I'm using 28g from Temco and like it fine. Personally I'm liking it more up around the .09Ω - .13Ω better. I think there's a lot of hoopla about the .065Ω personally. Would the device be more efficient there? Probably / possibly idk but my vapor is better to me at a bit higher resistance than that. I think it has to do with the amount of surface contact of wick to coil area but idk for sure I just like it better there.
Hi any tips for the wicking part? Sometimes I tend to get a slight dry hit when I take a long draw..
I fully open the afc and it's already pretty airy.. If I use the S kit won't it get more airy still ?
I just tried this and it was sitting right between 175-185° until it started drying out. Seems pretty low doesn't it?
ima have to play with it this weekend.. I'm feeling rebellious..lol
Come on, we hack our phones on almost a daily basis, it can't be that hard with that board
okay. my s the paint flew off. my m is fine. lets be honest here. even though this totl. china is known more than anything else for poor qc! I really don't know about my coil. the fact it takes only .065 and they do not mention this in bold type tells me this is a typical Chinese botch job. it does not matter how much we spent. look at the pages of a myriad of issues here. look at a provari thread in comparison. I think this thing was under cooked. I hate to be the one to come to this conclusion but read the last 60 pages and you tell me. in all fairness the dna40 is none the better. perhaps tc(and the paint job) were not ready for prime time. there will be many that disagree with me but stop a moment and look what is going on here. I do not doubt my coil is to blame and my paint is fine. however I think this thing has definite issues. can any one really deny this? maybe you got tc working and your paint is fine. count yourself very lucky then! I am sorry to be the one to come up with this revelation. I wonder how this will be received about to find out.......
For wicking I have been combing very slightly and gently each side of the wick. Also, I try to make my wick sit flush with the deck. I am still playing around but that is what I have been trying. It's worked very well so far. But every now and then i get a bad build. No idea why. All seems perfect but the coild will burn. So we need more info from others to find the best method of wick. Anyone else want to chime in here?
As for the S kit, you don't really need it unless you are doing high temps. The standard V4 has a screw for the AFC. This can be removed and I suggest you try this. It will open the airflow a little. Plus you can always pot the screw back in if you don't like it. The s kit is only .2mm bigger so you can decide if you really need it. I got the kit for the gold spring and the insulator. Lots of youtube out there on that.
I did try on the Kayfun thread to get some info but nothing came of it. So here is where I am looking for some more kayfun M CLass info too.
Good luck and let us know how you get on
Papa Pro I can't believe your Kangers leak. I have 5 of them and have had them quite a while and never had a leak not even a drop. Weird
Yeah it's a shame as I liked the tank's. Flavour is nice too. But they leak. All of them. Kanga tech sent me new o rings too but after the tank was filled I get leaks. Two originals and a mini. I have £200 worth of new coils sent from China too! I will find a home for them.
well you got me there. kanger does not leak a drop on any sx. leaks profusely on any dna40 device. perhaps I am all wrong. this thing might be magic haha.
speaking of which juice tends to kill any finish go figure. so try to keep juice off the finish!
speaking of which juice tends to kill any finish go figure. so try to keep juice off the finish!
Come on, we hack our phones on almost a daily basis, it can't be that hard with that board
Probably not but you know it only takes 1 bit to be in the wrong place and you could be up the creek without a paddle.
Hmmm, maybe Dam718 can chime in on that.
I am really beginning to think you may have to look at the SX Mini itself. With all the coils you have built and still not getting the results you are looking for, I would rule out the mod. Do you know anyone that also has a SX Mini M or maybe a B&M store where you could do a set resistance then wait 15 minutes and do another set resistance on a second SX Mini to see if the mods agree.
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