SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[Vlad1]

You did hit on something there Fir3bird, the mass ratio vs power seems to be a big key factor here with TC. If your mass is too low you may find that TC may jump around due to the lower mass. That is why my next build will be with 26ga so I can get more wraps and still keep the ohms down and have a greater mass than only using 5 wraps with the 28ga.

I'm not real big on the twisted idea but I may just try some twisted 28g later on today since that's all I have atm.

 

[JimScotty0]

[Moderated]
Ok, ha ha, got ya! That was a new one for me. I guess I missed that episode with IndoorSmokers! lol

 

[Bikenstein]

[Moderated]

 

[Fir3b1rd]

What diameter are you building? 8wraps 28g for me would be about .12Ω - .13Ω for me.

I build at 3mm with a curo coiler thingamajig

 

[jwat82]

I'm not a huge fan of twisting wire. I like to be able to go to steam engine and make sure the reading I'm getting is close to what it says I should. But, while I wait on my 26awg, in efforts of getting closer to that .065, I got the drill out and I'm having good luck with dual strand twisted 28awg and triple strand twisted 30awg. I've played more with the 28awg and 7 wraps round a 3.5mm rod is giving me a solid .062 and temps are staying in the ranges I'd expect at the wattages I'm running.

 

[Jonny5]

Thanks for your very informative post JimmyScott0. I just tried your method and was pleasantly surprised that I could get such a nice vape at 14J where I was previously vaping at 23J and above.

Following your approach I checked the temperature it settled at which was around 453 degrees for my stock OCC Sub tank coil. I set my temperature to 455 degrees. Vapes great but also wondering about the temperature being too high to avoid cotton burn when it drys out. I read in another post that the cotton will start to burn at 410 degrees. So won't using this method potentially take away from the non burn ability that temperature control provides? I'm talking about this type of case where the build and juice end up creating an above burn level temperature when it settles.

I have seen this behavior with even non-twisted 28ga NI200 at times. I have no idea why, but the much lower temperature setting works the same as it would if it were where I usually run it at around 420F or so. It is just lower for some reason maybe 1 out of 10 times with a build or new juice. I am guessing it may be the juice since I do go anywhere from 50/50 to 100% VG depending on my mood.

I have posted this a few times, but the way I set my temperature is working very nicely for me. YMMV. I have made some minor changes though. First I want to make sure my atty, wicking, juice is settled in. It may be a little erratic when you first build. Wicking is very important factor also. You want to ensure you have a very good connection and can test that by taking the atty on and off and you should get the same calculated resistance. It should be very close. I am usually within .001-.002 at most in variance. You MUST ensure that the atty and mod have settled in at ambient temperature before you set your baseline resistance. I can't stress this more. So many posts have come through this thread by those experiencing weird results because of this simple required process.

I usually set my temp at around 520F or so for me to calculate my desired temperature. Different juices, builds, etc. will require a different final temperature. I set my Joules at 14J and run my baselining in Standard mode. I used to use 8J but I am getting more consistent results at 14J which I find doesn't cause the SXM to cause too much PFM during firing and it is the Joules setting I end up using anyway. I hold down the fire button and watch the temperature rise and find the temp where it seems to settle down for the most part. I will take a hit every 5 seconds or so to ensure the wick is still wet. The temperature value does move around a bit at times, but you will find a number that it seems to be mostly settling in at. Then I change the temperature setting to whatever that temp value I found. Never lower, but sometimes a few degrees higher at most. You can then adjust the mode to Soft, Powerful, Powerful+, or just keep it on Standard which is probably the most consistent vape along with Soft which has a slower ramp up.

I have found that 14J or 18J, will give me a very pleasant and consistent vape with no PFM pulsing which you will get with the higher Joules. 18J also works fine, but will be slightly warmer. 14J is very nice for me anyway most of the time. I have tried going higher with the Joules all the way up to 50J, but I find that is just causing jittering, rattlesnaking, or whatever you want to cause it as the SXM just pushes too much power and the chip just needs to throttle down too rapidly to compensate for your temperature setting. If you are hearing that rattle then you your temp/Jules settings are just too high for the build.

My theory here is to let the temperature setting determine the correct value for all the variables such as atty resistance, coil resistance, wicking, juice, and all the possible things that cause one build to be different than the next. When the temperature settles down comfortably without a high Joules setting causing pulsations in temp, that seems to be the value that I want to use. With that setting I find the juice is vaporizing just what it wants and not excessively heating it so that it wastes juice by turning it into gas at the higher temperatures which it just doesn't need. So if your temperature is jumping all over the place you are not taking advantage of TC within the limits of the SXM. You may get what you believe to be a good vape, but it could be better, much better.

I have been shooting for around .007 resistance in my builds and right now I have it at .078, 14J, and 429F, using a 50/50 PG/VG juice. I have been running this all day with a few tank refills on my Lemo 2 and having some of the best vaping I have ever experienced with awesome flavor and nice clouds. I have my airflow about 80% open which gives me a great flavor and keeps the wicks saturated. I have also reduced down the drip tip on the Lemo 2 because I don't like such a wide tip that it comes with and I feel I get more flavor.

If anyone has some other method to set your values and get consistent results I would enjoy giving that a try also to compare results. Of course, you could just by magic find a magic set of numbers and get great results but what about tomorrow or the next build. Would it also work? Maybe I am being too scientific here, but that is just the way I operate and I like predictability which I think I am finding for the most part. Not 100% of the time, but maybe around 97% of the time.

I just love my SXM and all the tinkering you can do with it to find your sweet spot. But I feel this is not a mod for a newbie and will require some skills to make it work very well for you in TC mode.

 

[JimScotty0]

Thanks for your very informative post JimmyScott0. I just tried your method and was pleasantly surprised that I could get such a nice vape at 14J where I was previously vaping at 23J and above.

Following your approach I checked the temperature it settled at which was around 453 degrees for my stock OCC Sub Tank coil. I set my temperature to 455 degrees. Vapes great but also wondering about the temperature being too high to avoid cotton burn when it drys out. I read in another post that the cotton will start to burn at 410 degrees. So won't using this method potentially take away from the non burn ability that temperature control provides? I'm talking about this type of case where the build and juice end up creating an above burn level temperature when it settles.

Jonny5, I think you will find that with the Kanger OCC prebuilt coils have somewhere around .15 ohms resistance which will require more temperature I have found. I still use the same formula with those coils and have never had a cotton burn. With the higher resistance I think the temperature may be slightly higher than reality but that is just my opinion. I also run those coils at around 14J. What PG/VG juice ratio are you running? If VG, you will need about 15% more temp and maybe 18J.

 

[dam718]

I could reset a scale, set it to zero, get on it and be pretty accurate. But then bring it to the moon. zero it there and then be off about 84%. Because the resistance (gravity) is different there and the scale is not programed to sense that difference.

You're pretty much confirming what we've all been telling you... In order for this device to perform as you're suggesting, you would have to alter the laws of physics. In this scenario you've described you are altering the laws of gravity by literally putting the scale on another planet.

The physical properties of Ni200 do not change if it is wound into a coil that has an ambient temp resistance of .05, .065, or .30 ohms. You are distorting reality.

Let's take your scale example above...

Have you ever heard of the concept of taring? You have a scale with nothing on it, and it indicates zero pounds. You put something on it like, say, A SEMI TRUCK, and now it indicates 25,000 pounds (or more). OH MY! So we set it back to zero WITH THE SEMI TRUCK ON THE SCALE. So now it reads zero again. And we put 500 pounds of stuff inside the truck. Now it only reads 500 pounds, not 25,500...

By setting the resistance at ambient temp, we are effectively taring the scale. Just like a weight scale, it knows how much 1 pound is, regardless of how many pounds are already loaded onto the scale. The SXmini knows how much resistance change 1 degree is, regardless of the resistance it starts out at.

It's not how I "think" it works... This is really what is happening. This is physics, and regardless of what you "think" you can't will it into changing, at least on this planet. The rest of us understand this. You are the only one here disputing the science.

And you see pages and pages of posts here all from people stating things like, their device doesnt ever hit the temp they set it for, they are fooling their device and setting temps 100 degree lower, the vape feels much hotter then the actual reading, etc....

Physics also explains why it never gets to the temp they set it to. Can water boil hotter than 212 degrees? Not without changing the pressure... So, for most of us, you can't get liquid water open to the atmosphere above 212 degrees. It is scientifically impossible. I'm not suggesting the device is perfect, or that the coil is always completely surrounded by liquid, or that the wick is 100% efficient, but when you take airflow, wicking, the cooling properties of the liquid, and the boiling point of the liquid into consideration, it starts to make sense. Would a coil that is covered in water, with cool air flowing over the top, and a cotton core wick saturated with water ever get over 212 degrees? Even if we set it to 500? It will only make it to that temp once enough juice has vaporized that the wick and juice contained within have lost its cooling properties and the coil will start to rise in temp above the boiling point of the liquid. Dry wick!

Physics and vaping... Beautiful!

 

[Sgt. Pepper]

I have seen this behavior with even non-twisted 28ga NI200 at times. I have no idea why, but the much lower temperature setting works the same as it would if it were where I usually run it at around 420F or so. It is just lower for some reason maybe 1 out of 10 times with a build or new juice. I am guessing it may be the juice since I do go anywhere from 50/50 to 100% VG depending on my mood.

I have posted this a few times, but the way I set my temperature is working very nicely for me. YMMV. I have made some minor changes though. First I want to make sure my atty, wicking, juice is settled in. It may be a little erratic when you first build. Wicking is very important factor also. You want to ensure you have a very good connection and can test that by taking the atty on and off and you should get the same calculated resistance. It should be very close. I am usually within .001-.002 at most in variance. You MUST ensure that the atty and mod have settled in at ambient temperature before you set your baseline resistance. I can't stress this more. So many posts have come through this thread by those experiencing weird results because of this simple required process.

I usually set my temp at around 520F or so for me to calculate my desired temperature. Different juices, builds, etc. will require a different final temperature. I set my Joules at 14J and run my baselining in Standard mode. I used to use 8J but I am getting more consistent results at 14J which I find doesn't cause the SXM to cause too much PFM during firing and it is the Joules setting I end up using anyway. I hold down the fire button and watch the temperature rise and find the temp where it seems to settle down for the most part. I will take a hit every 5 seconds or so to ensure the wick is still wet. The temperature value does move around a bit at times, but you will find a number that it seems to be mostly settling in at. Then I change the temperature setting to whatever that temp value I found. Never lower, but sometimes a few degrees higher at most. You can then adjust the mode to Soft, Powerful, Powerful+, or just keep it on Standard which is probably the most consistent vape along with Soft which has a slower ramp up.

I have found that 14J or 18J, will give me a very pleasant and consistent vape with no PFM pulsing which you will get with the higher Joules. 18J also works fine, but will be slightly warmer. 14J is very nice for me anyway most of the time. I have tried going higher with the Joules all the way up to 50J, but I find that is just causing jittering, rattlesnaking, or whatever you want to cause it as the SXM just pushes too much power and the chip just needs to throttle down too rapidly to compensate for your temperature setting. If you are hearing that rattle then you your temp/Jules settings are just too high for the build.

My theory here is to let the temperature setting determine the correct value for all the variables such as atty resistance, coil resistance, wicking, juice, and all the possible things that cause one build to be different than the next. When the temperature settles down comfortably without a high Joules setting causing pulsations in temp, that seems to be the value that I want to use. With that setting I find the juice is vaporizing just what it wants and not excessively heating it so that it wastes juice by turning it into gas at the higher temperatures which it just doesn't need. So if your temperature is jumping all over the place you are not taking advantage of TC within the limits of the SXM. You may get what you believe to be a good vape, but it could be better, much better.

I have been shooting for around .007 resistance in my builds and right now I have it at .078, 14J, and 429F, using a 50/50 PG/VG juice. I have been running this all day with a few tank refills on my Lemo 2 and having some of the best vaping I have ever experienced with awesome flavor and nice clouds. I have my airflow about 80% open which gives me a great flavor and keeps the wicks saturated. I have also reduced down the drip tip on the Lemo 2 because I don't like such a wide tip that it comes with and I feel I get more flavor.

If anyone has some other method to set your values and get consistent results I would enjoy giving that a try also to compare results. Of course, you could just by magic find a magic set of numbers and get great results but what about tomorrow or the next build. Would it also work? Maybe I am being too scientific here, but that is just the way I operate and I like predictability which I think I am finding for the most part. Not 100% of the time, but maybe around 97% of the time.

I just love my SXM and all the tinkering you can do with it to find your sweet spot. But I feel this is not a mod for a newbie and will require some skills to make it work very well for you in TC mode.

Very nicely said. Thanks for sharing. I'm going to give it a whirl.

 

[JimScotty0]

For all of us that use the Kanger OCC coils and like a high VG ratio, this trick may assist with the wicking. I haven't given it a try yet but maybe on my next Kanger go around.

 

[Fir3b1rd]

You're pretty much confirming what we've all been telling you... In order for this device to perform as you're suggesting, you would have to alter the laws of physics. In this scenario you've described you are altering the laws of gravity by literally putting the scale on another planet.

The physical properties of Ni200 do not change if it is wound into a coil that has an ambient temp resistance of .05, .065, or .30 ohms. You are distorting reality.

Let's take your scale example above...

Have you ever heard of the concept of taring? You have a scale with nothing on it, and it indicates zero pounds. You put something on it like, say, A SEMI TRUCK, and now it indicates 25,000 pounds (or more). OH MY! So we set it back to zero WITH THE SEMI TRUCK ON THE SCALE. So now it reads zero again. And we put 500 pounds of stuff inside the truck. Now it only reads 500 pounds, not 25,500...

By setting the resistance at ambient temp, we are effectively taring the scale. Just like a weight scale, it knows how much 1 pound is, regardless of how many pounds are already loaded onto the scale. The SXmini knows how much resistance change 1 degree is, regardless of the resistance it starts out at.

It's not how I "think" it works... This is really what is happening. This is physics, and regardless of what you "think" you can't will it into changing, at least on this planet. The rest of us understand this. You are the only one here disputing the science.



Physics also explains why it never gets to the temp they set it to. Can water boil hotter than 212 degrees? Not without changing the pressure... So, for most of us, you can't get liquid water open to the atmosphere above 212 degrees. It is scientifically impossible. I'm not suggesting the device is perfect, or that the coil is always completely surrounded by liquid, or that the wick is 100% efficient, but when you take airflow, wicking, the cooling properties of the liquid, and the boiling point of the liquid into consideration, it starts to make sense. Would a coil that is covered in water, with cool air flowing over the top, and a cotton core wick saturated with water ever get over 212 degrees? Even if we set it to 500? It will only make it to that temp once enough juice has vaporized that the wick and juice contained within have lost its cooling properties and the coil will start to rise in temp above the boiling point of the liquid. Dry wick!

Physics and vaping... Beautiful!

My nomination for post of the year

 

[Jonny5]

Jonny5, I think you will find that with the Kanger OCC prebuilt coils have somewhere around .15 ohms resistance which will require more temperature I have found. I still use the same formula with those coils and have never had a cotton burn. With the higher resistance I think the temperature may be slightly higher than reality but that is just my opinion. I also run those coils at around 14J. What PG/VG juice ratio are you running? If VG, you will need about 15% more temp and maybe 18J.

Interesting JimScotty0. It's actually a 70% VG but I'm getting great flavor at 14J.

 

[dannyben]

In order for this device to perform as you're suggesting, you would have to alter the laws of physics. In this scenario you've described you are altering the laws of gravity by literally putting the scale on another planet.

How has my example altered physics? Im not changing the gravity on the moon. that example USES the laws of science to prove YOU altering them does NOT work.

The physical properties of Ni200 do not change if it is wound into a coil that has an ambient temp resistance of .05, .065, or .30 ohms. You are distorting reality.

Really. So a 0.30ohm coil will be just as accurate on this device as a 0.065? And despite Yihi's caveat of not going over 0.30, please explain why (actually no need to), according to you, I could use a 60-wrap 0.50ohm build and it will also be just as accurate.

Have you ever heard of the concept of taring? You have a scale with nothing on it, and it indicates zero pounds. You put something on it like, say, A SEMI TRUCK, and now it indicates 25,000 pounds (or more). OH MY! So we set it back to zero WITH THE SEMI TRUCK ON THE SCALE. So now it reads zero again. And we put 500 pounds of stuff inside the truck. Now it only reads 500 pounds, not 25,500...

And all you've done is FOOL the scale to show a reading of 500 pounds! Just like you're suggesting to fool the sxmini. Go off that scale and drive that 25,500 pound truck over a bridge that says a 6,000 pound max capacity. Let me know how that works out for you too.

It's not how I "think" it works... This is really what is happening. This is physics, and regardless of what you "think" you can't will it into changing, at least on this planet. The rest of us understand this. You are the only one here disputing the science.

This is funny. It doesn't matter how many times I explain that this isn't my findings or my "theory". This is DIRECTLY from yihi. THE MANUFACTURER. But what do they know. Its not like they made this device. Oh wait, they did!

Physics also explains why it never gets to the temp they set it to. Can water boil hotter than 212 degrees? Not without changing the pressure... So, for most of us, you can't get liquid water open to the atmosphere above 212 degrees. It is scientifically impossible. I'm not suggesting the device is perfect, or that the coil is always completely surrounded by liquid, or that the wick is 100% efficient, but when you take airflow, wicking, the cooling properties of the liquid, and the boiling point of the liquid into consideration, it starts to make sense. Would a coil that is covered in water, with cool air flowing over the top, and a cotton core wick saturated with water ever get over 212 degrees? Even if we set it to 500? It will only make it to that temp once enough juice has vaporized that the wick and juice contained within have lost its cooling properties and the coil will start to rise in temp above the boiling point of the liquid. Dry wick!

What does boiling water have to do with setting my device to 410 degrees with a 0.20ohm build and it never getting hotter then 340 degrees? But yet when ANYONE uses a build of between 0.06 - 0.09 they have never experienced this issue!?!?!? You want to mess with the MANUFACTURERS instructions of use and then come up with reasons/excuses of why it doesn't work, but yet when you follow their instructions it works PERFECTLY. Why not just follow them!

... by literally putting the scale on another planet.

My last response to this nonsense. Believe what you want and tell as many people as you'd like. For the people who want to know why they are experiencing issues with higher builds, i have passed on Yihi's words and explained it.

I have bigger issues right now. I need to find my grade school science teacher to yell at him for not teaching me that the moon was a planet.



p.s. And what do i really know?!?! But... just do a search of my posts. I was the one who first informed people of the issue of the original S class with the notched 510 pin and not to turn it. days later yihi redesigned it and issued a non-warranty disclaimer about it. I was the one who informed people in February, when i noticed on vendors sites, NOT to order the M class in Gold the rose and black combination -- that these were just prototypes and yihi had no plans to EVER produce them. I was the one that wrote that the pics posted here of the silver and black combination (in a high gloss finish) was also a prototype and the real ones were a matte black finish and I was the one who posted when they would be starting to ship them despite others saying they've been shelved for weeks/months. Boy, Ive gotten lucky.

 

[JimScotty0]

Interesting JimScotty0. It's actually a 70% VG but I'm getting great flavor at 14J.

Stick with the 14J then. That is my go to setting for about 95% of the time on the SXM.

 

[Yozhik]

it doesnt really matter whether its linear or a sine wave, as long as it is reproducible and the chip has the correct lookup table!

Yep, that's correct, except that a sine wave is unrealistic and would actually be highly problematic.

the problem is not with his build in the tanks.
the problem is between him not knowing or being fluid enough with TL and the tanks themselves.
busardo is just a dude, like any other dude, he is fallable. I like the guy, as a person he's a great guy, but, his word
is not gospel. The kf4 spring that rubs between the 510 and the positive post inheritnly can cause serious issues; and is a terrible choice. The ematel(whatchamacallit) on the sqr is also terrible. The dripper however ran great?
why? Its just a coil in an atty, the mod doesn't care if its an RDA or an RTA, the mod is just getting readings off what's on top. Using those to tanks to test was a terrible idea.

He admitted in his post-review that the problem was with non-nickel resistance in the tanks he was using, not the mod. So he did follow up on his mistake. TC has a learning curve for everyone, even pbusardo.

 

[Fir3b1rd]

How has my example altered physics? Im not changing the gravity on the moon. that example USES the laws of science to prove YOU altering them does NOT work.



Really. So a 0.30ohm coil will be just as accurate on this device as a 0.065? And despite Yihi's caveat of not going over 0.30, please explain why (actually no need to), according to you, I could use a 60-wrap 0.50ohm build and it will also be just as accurate.




And all you've done is FOOL the scale to show a reading of 500 pounds! Just like you're suggesting to fool the sxmini. Go off that scale and drive that 25,500 pound truck over a bridge that says a 6,000 pound max capacity. Let me know how that works out for you too.



This is funny. It doesn't matter how many times I explain that this isn't my findings or my "theory". This is DIRECTLY from yihi. THE MANUFACTURER. But what do they know. Its not like they made this device. Oh wait, they did!




What does boiling water have to do with setting my device to 410 degrees with a 0.20ohm build and it never getting hotter then 340 degrees? But yet when ANYONE uses a build of between 0.06 - 0.09 they have never experienced this issue!?!?!? You want to mess with the MANUFACTURERS instructions of use and then come up with reasons/excuses of why it doesn't work, but yet when you follow their instructions it works PERFECTLY. Why not just follow them!




My last response to this nonsense. Believe what you want and tell as many people as you'd like. For the people who want to know why they are experiencing issues with higher builds, i have passed on Yihi's words and explained it.

I have bigger issues right now. I need to find my grade school science teacher to yell at him for not teaching me that the moon was a planet.



p.s. And what do i really know?!?! But... just do a search of my posts. I was the one who first informed people of the issue of the original S class with the notched 510 pin and not to turn it. days later yihi redesigned it and issued a non-warranty disclaimer about it. I was the one who informed people in February, when i noticed on vendors sites, NOT to order the M class in Gold the rose and black combination -- that these were just prototypes and yihi had no plans to EVER produce them. I was the one that wrote that the pics posted here of the silver and black combination (in a high gloss finish) was also a prototype and the real ones were a matte black finish and I was the one who posted when they would be starting to ship them despite others saying they've been shelved for weeks/months. Boy, Ive gotten lucky.

Somebody needs a hug.
dude, we've got what you are saying; its ok to disagree with us.

 

[Yozhik]

Really. So a 0.30ohm coil will be just as accurate on this device as a 0.065? And despite Yihi's caveat of not going over 0.30, please explain why (actually no need to), according to you, I could use a 60-wrap 0.50ohm build and it will also be just as accurate.

If a .3 ohm coil at temperature T1 is a .6 ohm coil at temperature T2, then a .065 ohm coil at T1 will be at .13 ohm coil at T2. This is due to the material properties of nickel, which is not dependent on initial resistance, the device being used, or so on. Thus, the resistance of the coil in itself is not the cause of inaccuracy, because it is a function solely of its physical nature. Rather, the likely reason as to why a TC algorithm's can degrade above or below certain ohm limits is because the device has finite power and finite bandwidth to manage the required adjustments.

 

[PapaPro]

Guys I need some help

So, I have six authentic Kayfun V4 decks and two tanks. All with the S kit with gold spring (my problem I think?). I have had nothing but trouble with every one. I am so fed-up to say the least. £500 it cost me. And now my vaping budget from Jan of this year is nearly 2k!!! All I wanted to do was stop smoking. Anyway, I am a little ...... off. I am also realising that MOST reviewers are talking BS. Such a lesson to learn.

So, my V4s were my way out. They are the only tanks I get a vape I like. But they seem floored. I ultrasonicly cleaned all my decks yesterday. Stripped them down and even cleaned the springs. Then did the OHMs test of building a deck and testing the OMS over time. The fluctuations are driving me nuts! I get anything between 0.250 to 0.068 with a six wrap coil using every wire known to man. I have everything. And I am certain it's the V4s and not the device.

Yesterday I ordered some Subtank coils. They arrived today. Testing they are giving me a consistant 0.15 OHMs every time. But I needed some more tanks to test to be sure so I got out my drippers. My Marque is giving me 0.068 as are my Vicious Ants (way cool drippers btw). So they are all working great. But none of them give me the same vape I get from my V4s when they work.

Not sure what to do. I have meetings all day so cannot bring a dripper into the room. But as I am the boss, I can vape where I like. My Subtanks leak. I need reliability. So I want to try and get my V4s working. But how? Is it a floored design? I had the same issues in regular watt mode with Kanthal. Very inconsistant readings. And I tried to blame the devices as I was told in every review how wonderful the V4s are.

Oh I am ...... off. I could rip someones head off right now with my bare hands. Grrrrrrrrrrrr.... Anyone have any advise? I really need some hope

Btw, you are all idiots. The M CLass uses Mexican Wave!!!!

 

[Fir3b1rd]

I don't own a kf4, but the lemo2 are fantastic...i know that doesn't help you.
But, from what I've read the svoe spring was causing issues with TL, and svoemesto put out a new spring that is "supposed' to help solve the problems.

What's a Mexican wave? Is that like a taco?

 

[Croak]

Guys I need some help

So, I have six authentic Kayfun V4 decks and two tanks. All with the S kit with gold spring (my problem I think?). I have had nothing but trouble with every one. I am so fed-up to say the least. £500 it cost me. And now my vaping budget from Jan of this year is nearly 2k!!! All I wanted to do was stop smoking. Anyway, I am a little ...... off. I am also realising that MOST reviewers are talking BS. Such a lesson to learn.

So, my V4s were my way out. They are the only tanks I get a vape I like. But they seem floored. I ultrasonicly cleaned all my decks yesterday. Stripped them down and even cleaned the springs. Then did the OHMs test of building a deck and testing the OMS over time. The fluctuations are driving me nuts! I get anything between 0.250 to 0.068 with a six wrap coil using every wire known to man. I have everything. And I am certain it's the V4s and not the device.

Yesterday I ordered some Subtank coils. They arrived today. Testing they are giving me a consistant 0.15 OHMs every time. But I needed some more tanks to test to be sure so I got out my drippers. My Marque is giving me 0.068 as are my Vicious Ants (way cool drippers btw). So they are all working great. But none of them give me the same vape I get from my V4s when they work.

Not sure what to do. I have meetings all day so cannot bring a dripper into the room. But as I am the boss, I can vape where I like. My Subtanks leak. I need reliability. So I want to try and get my V4s working. But how? Is it a floored design? I had the same issues in regular watt mode with Kanthal. Very inconsistant readings. And I tried to blame the devices as I was told in every review how wonderful the V4s are.

Oh I am ...... off. I could rip someones head off right now with my bare hands. Grrrrrrrrrrrr.... Anyone have any advise? I really need some hope

Btw, you are all idiots. The M CLass uses Mexican Wave!!!!

This replaces the nut #11:

Kayfun V4 "Spring Update" - Accessories - SteamTuners P.C.