SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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chia

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Hi
Using a GT2.. At 0.07 build at around 20J.. Everything is fine initially, sync ok vapes fine, but sometime I get a 'dry coil' , even though the tank is half or full.. Sometimes I remove the batt and it resets and vapes fine, sometimes it persist.. Anyone had this problem b4? I suspect it to be a atty connection issue, but I'm not sure as it fires ok on other mods..,
 

Yozhik

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Hi
Using a GT2.. At 0.07 build at around 20J.. Everything is fine initially, sync ok vapes fine, but sometime I get a 'dry coil' , even though the tank is half or full.. Sometimes I remove the batt and it resets and vapes fine, sometimes it persist.. Anyone had this problem b4? I suspect it to be a atty connection issue, but I'm not sure as it fires ok on other mods..,

Could be a 510 pin problem, in which case a rubber mallet can be handy. Otherwise, it could also be a wicking issue, as TC is much more unforgiving about bad wicking. If the wick's tails are too long, the wick is too thick, etc., this can choke the juice flow thus invoking a dry coil warning.

If your resistance is staying the same, but your dry coil warning goes away after waiting awhile, that likely indicates a wicking problem, not a 510 connection issue.
 

chia

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Could be a 510 pin problem, in which case a rubber mallet can be handy. Otherwise, it could also be a wicking issue, as TC is much more unforgiving about bad wicking. If the wick's tails are too long, the wick is too thick, etc., this can choke the juice flow thus invoking a dry coil warning.

If your resistance is staying the same, but your dry coil warning goes away after waiting awhile, that likely indicates a wicking problem, not a 510 connection issue.

Rubber mallet?
I did take apart the gt2 to chk the wicking, and it's quite wet so most likely it's the 510 connector?
 

Yozhik

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Rubber mallet?
I did take apart the gt2 to chk the wicking, and it's quite wet so most likely it's the 510 connector?

As I discovered with the Lemo 2, sometimes the insulator on the 510 pin of the atomizer base is strong enough to resist a good connection against the 510 spring connector of the SX Mini. By applying the rubber mallet to the 510 pin of the atomizer base, I was able to reset the pin such that the connection has been fine since. Another way to test whether the 510 pin is an issue is to use an ego adapter, as that eliminates the 510 spring connector as a possible concern. If that works, bring out the mallet. ;)
 

Braddahbill

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I tried something a little different tonight on my Sub Tank Mini RBA, Tempered - 28awg - 9/8 wrap - 3mm ID. It came in at 0.121 Ω - 24J - 400º. The wicking was a little tricky but the flavor is outstanding. I think I will try to perfect this type of chimney build and try it on the Lemo 2.




Screen Shot 2015-05-15 at 00.20.12.png
 
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Just wanted some advice on the sx mini temp controlled function. I've been using the device primarily in the temp control function with my Lemo 2 and or subtank mini rba with nickel. I've been building 2.5-3mm Id coils ohming in at 0.065 - 0.08 with 26g ni200. Vapes great for the first few tanks then I notice the coil starts to blacken and become quite "gunked up". Been running it at 35-40 joules @ 400-450F and usually set to standard or powerful mode. Anyone else having this problem? Just from watching reviews and such it seems the nickel usually looks as good after a few tanks as it did when first installed... Not the case with mine... Just want to make sure it's something I can change or is it the device itself... Any help is appreciated... Thanks
 

ChrisCanal

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Just wanted some advice on the sx mini temp controlled function. I've been using the device primarily in the temp control function with my Lemo 2 and or subtank mini rba with nickel. I've been building 2.5-3mm Id coils ohming in at 0.065 - 0.08 with 26g ni200. Vapes great for the first few tanks then I notice the coil starts to blacken and become quite "gunked up". Been running it at 35-40 joules @ 400-450F and usually set to standard or powerful mode. Anyone else having this problem? Just from watching reviews and such it seems the nickel usually looks as good after a few tanks as it did when first installed... Not the case with mine... Just want to make sure it's something I can change or is it the device itself... Any help is appreciated... Thanks

Might be a bit hot? I personally in those two tanks stay more around 375-400F, and around 23-25J. Or it could just be your juice.
 

derogg

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I tried something a little different tonight on my Sub Tank Mini RBA, Tempered - 28awg - 9/8 wrap - 3mm ID. It came in at 0.121 Ω - 24J - 400º. The wicking was a little tricky but the flavor is outstanding. I think I will try to perfect this type of chimney build and try it on the Lemo 2.




View attachment 457142
looks great! No issues with the longer legs? That would be my only concern. How are you wicking it? Around the coil? I have tried chimney coils with kanthal in the Kayfun, but never could get them to vape very well.
- Dirk
 

Yozhik

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NICE!!!!! Due to come out by the end of May from Yihi. I'll be all over that black one. :banana:

View attachment 457149

Those look like silicone cases, not painted mods. Look at the 510 connector base above the fire button and the fire button itself. It looks like those are flush with the case.
 

Vlad1

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So in watt mode at 15w, you are only pulling 3 amps. I want to see that in Joules. I joined that FB group. Looks cool

Current "amps" is dependent on resistance and voltage and power setting. So in your example 15w, 3A would need to have a 1.66Ω coil in power mode. Lower or raise that resistance of the coil and you will have different current "amps" at the same power setting.

Watts/Volts/Amps/Ohms conversion calculator

Edit: I think I just realized what you were looking at. Yihisxmini facebook page?

If so:
That's not 15W it's 150W
And it's not 3A it's 29.5A
with a resistance of .17Ω
and 4.95V
 
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