SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[JimScotty0]

Has anyone got the 0.007/0.006 OHMs error? Just wondering what it means.

Just to clarify. It happens to me a lot when setting the RES. If it shows that reading, it freezes. I have to three click to lock and then three click to unlock to get the M Class back to normal.

I am nearly 90% sure it's the M Class 510 pin and my kayfun V4 pin that has an issue. So frustrating as all my decks are not working again I hate beta testing while trying to stop smoking

It is a minor bug. I find that if you set the baseline resistance a few times repeatedly it will do that. It has nothing to do with the atty or the actual resistance. Powering it off and then on will easily clear it. Hopefully they will fix that at the next firmware update. it happens to me about once every several days or more. Not often.

 

[PapaPro]

Thanks Jim and all,

I am getting it several times per day. And it's getting worse. I can vape around 1ml and then it burns. This is at 13 Joules and 320f. So I know I am not over doing things. Strange as twice I got at least 10ml with this juice before it I tasted burning. It's so frustrating Jim I can tell ya. I wonder if I damaged my M using the USB and vaping at the same time? I also notice my V4 heats up to really hot very fast. I mean you cannot touch it.

Something is very wrong with my setup. I am sending it all to Cloud 9 to test and see what they can find. It has been so very helpfull having you guys helping out. Hope to return the favour one day!

 

[derogg]

Thanks Jim and all,

I am getting it several times per day. And it's getting worse. I can vape around 1ml and then it burns. This is at 13 Joules and 320f. So I know I am not over doing things. Strange as twice I got at least 10ml with this juice before it I tasted burning. It's so frustrating Jim I can tell ya. I wonder if I damaged my M using the USB and vaping at the same time? I also notice my V4 heats up to really hot very fast. I mean you cannot touch it.

Something is very wrong with my setup. I am sending it all to Cloud 9 to test and see what they can find. It has been so very helpfull having you guys helping out. Hope to return the favour one day!

Maybe post a picture of your coil set up? Maybe we can help you out. Have you tried something other then the KF4 and had the same issue?

 

[PapaPro]

That's a great idea Derogg! I will test my Marque later and see if it is indeed my V4s! Why did I not think of this???? I was so caught up with building six V4 decks (an hour to do) and then testing each one at a time, I forgot to try another tank.

Good stuff and tanks again!

 

[derogg]

That's a great idea Derogg! I will test my Marque later and see if it is indeed my V4s! Why did I not think of this???? I was so caught up with building six V4 decks (an hour to do) and then testing each one at a time, I forgot to try another tank.

Good stuff and tanks again!

Love the Marquis! I use mine daul coil Kanthal on a mech.
I think that is a great idea for you. Something simple ( single coil) so you can eliminate any variable and hopefully figure out if it is the SX, the atty or maybe something with your build that is giving you problems. Good luck and keep the questions coming so we can help you be succesful.
- Dirk

 

[Vlad1]

Has anyone got the 0.007/0.006 OHMs error? Just wondering what it means.

Just to clarify. It happens to me a lot when setting the RES. If it shows that reading, it freezes. I have to three click to lock and then three click to unlock to get the M Class back to normal.

I am nearly 90% sure it's the M Class 510 pin and my Kayfun V4 pin that has an issue. So frustrating as all my decks are not working again I hate beta testing while trying to stop smoking

Someone else was reporting this earlier in the thread that it was happening to them fairly frequent. I've only had it occur a couple times and don't know how to reproduce it. You might look back through the thread to see if you can find their post and if they found the cause and resolution.

 

[Vlad1]

Thanks Jim and all,

I am getting it several times per day. And it's getting worse. I can vape around 1ml and then it burns. This is at 13 Joules and 320f. So I know I am not over doing things. Strange as twice I got at least 10ml with this juice before it I tasted burning. It's so frustrating Jim I can tell ya. I wonder if I damaged my M using the USB and vaping at the same time? I also notice my V4 heats up to really hot very fast. I mean you cannot touch it.

Something is very wrong with my setup. I am sending it all to Cloud 9 to test and see what they can find. It has been so very helpfull having you guys helping out. Hope to return the favour one day!

The only time I've ever had a burning flavor was when I either had bad connections or hot spots on my coils. If connections are all good and there are no hot spots and atty is synced at ambient temperature with the device you should be good. With all the problems I've read with the K4 and nickle builds I'd be looking at those with a fine toothed comb. You might try the water test mentioned earlier in the thread as well. It might help put you in the right direction.

 

[Vlad1]

Well I was reading back through the thread to see if I could find cause or resolution for you PapaPro, I didn't but did find some stated if you set the resistance 3 times in a row you might get that. Not the case for me, I just sync'd resistance 9 times straight and all it did was set my resistance to .087Ω each time so IDK. It would be nice if they would publish the V1.4 firmware build so folks could at least re-flash if there was a bug in their device that was causing this more frequently than others.

 

[PapaPro]

You really did not need to do that Vlad. Thank you ever so much. I will test my dripper tonight so that should tell a story I hope. I really should have done that first. My bad.

You all are wonderful. Sending some good energy out your way

 

[Shel]

Tried to search through this thread, but it's gotten too long, and I'm too lazy....

I just put a TC Kanger OCC coil on my Sub tank Mini. Resistance is 0.14, 70-30 vg/pg.

Set the temp to 400, joules to 20j and the vape was way too weak. Upped the temp to 425, joules to 23J, getting better.

I then bumped temp to 450, and joules to 25J. The temp, when I hit the fire button goes right to 440-450, bounces around slightly above 450, and stays there.

I figure that I'm not actually getting the 25J, as the temp control should reduce power when temp gets above 450, so I reduced my Joules down to 23J. Still jumping up to the 450 degree area, bouncing around slightly above it....

How high can you set the temp before the cotton burns? Should I continue to increase the temp, then increase joules, until I find a sweet spot?

Just increased temp to 475, with Joules still at 23J. Temp now jumps up to 475, slightly above, and stays there... I'm now getting a much warmer vape... but am I wasting battery power?

I would think that ther's SOME temperature where the cotton will burn, correct?

 

[druckle]

Tried to search through this thread, but it's gotten too long, and I'm too lazy....

I just put a TC Kanger OCC coil on my Sub tank Mini.

Set the temp to 400, joules to 20j and the vape was way too weak. Upped the temp to 425, joules to 23J, getting better.

I then bumped temp to 450, and joules to 25J. The temp, when I hit the fire button goes right to 440-450, bounces around slightly above 450, and stays there.

I figure that I'm not actually getting the 25J, as the temp control should reduce power when temp gets above 450, so I reduced my Joules down to 23J. Still jumping up to the 450 degree area, bouncing around slightly above it....

How high can you set the temp before the cotton burns? Should I continue to increase the temp, then increase joules, until I find a sweet spot?

Just increased temp to 475, with Joules still at 23J. Temp now jumps up to 475, slightly above, and stays there... I'm now getting a much warmer vape... but am I wasting battery power?

I would think that ther's SOME temperature where the cotton will burn, correct?

I've had really bad luck with the Kanger Nickel 200 OCC coils. The problem seems to be associated with poor/variable contact of the positive and negative leads and the long wire leads which often give hot legs. I've gotten maybe one in five heads which last for a while but often the first few puffs are ok and then vapor production falls off dramatically and apparent temp has to be increased. I don't like these things. Can you tell?

 

[dannyben]

Tried to search through this thread, but it's gotten too long, and I'm too lazy....

I just put a TC Kanger OCC coil on my Sub tank Mini. Resistance is 0.14, 70-30 vg/pg.

Set the temp to 400, joules to 20j and the vape was way too weak. Upped the temp to 425, joules to 23J, getting better.

I then bumped temp to 450, and joules to 25J. The temp, when I hit the fire button goes right to 440-450, bounces around slightly above 450, and stays there.

I figure that I'm not actually getting the 25J, as the temp control should reduce power when temp gets above 450, so I reduced my Joules down to 23J. Still jumping up to the 450 degree area, bouncing around slightly above it....

How high can you set the temp before the cotton burns? Should I continue to increase the temp, then increase joules, until I find a sweet spot?

Just increased temp to 475, with Joules still at 23J. Temp now jumps up to 475, slightly above, and stays there... I'm now getting a much warmer vape... but am I wasting battery power?

I would think that ther's SOME temperature where the cotton will burn, correct?

Cotton will start to "char" at 410 degrees.
Your device sounds like it is working perfectly. It will hover at right around the temp setting you selected. The joules (as well as the 4 power modes) is pretty irrelevant with temp control. As long as you have it set high enough to reach your entered temp all else will just tell it how fast to get to that temperature.

Your "sweet spot" should basically be the temperature vape where your prefer most. The joules and power modes just for if you want that hot burst instantly or slowly getting to the temp you like.

 

[Shel]

I've gotten maybe one in five heads which last for a while but often the first few puffs are ok and then vapor production falls off dramatically I don't like these things. Can you tell?

I hear you...

I was vaping Muffin Man in my Sub Tank mini, with the standard .5 ohm head, and kept getting burnt taste. Decided to pull out one of my TC coils that I purchased about a month ago, and give that a shot.

Really love this juice, but even the occasional burnt hit ruins the experience!

Anyways, I've now set my tank, with the TC coil, to 475 degrees, 23J, and I'm getting excellent flavor and clouds... wish it was a *little* warmer, but right now, it tastes great. May bump the temp up and see what happens after a short while.

i'll let you know if I experience what you did... working for a few puffs, then a drop in vapor production. Right now, it's working very well, if a slightly cooler vape.

 

[Vlad1]

I hear you...

I was vaping Muffin Man in my Sub Tank mini, with the standard .5 ohm head, and kept getting burnt taste. Decided to pull out one of my TC coils that I purchased about a month ago, and give that a shot.

Really love this juice, but even the occasional burnt hit ruins the experience!

Anyways, I've now set my tank, with the TC coil, to 475 degrees, 23J, and I'm getting excellent flavor and clouds... wish it was a *little* warmer, but right now, it tastes great. May bump the temp up and see what happens after a short while.

i'll let you know if I experience what you did... working for a few puffs, then a drop in vapor production. Right now, it's working very well, if a slightly cooler vape.

I have had great success with the RBA deck on the Subtank mini. I wouldn't really consider using nickle OCC unless it was an emergency situation due to the inconsistencies I see being reported. Typically attributed to the rubber grommet contact points or long legs of the coils. But using the deck has been pretty fantastic for me.

 

[2legsshrt]

Well I have something strange. I love the Kanger STM with the first ones that have only 3 air selections I go 7 wraps 3mm and get .088 but with 7 wraps on the new ones that have 4 air selections I get .098 I had to go down to 6 wraps with 28 awg to get in the same range with the new ones came out .085. I tried about 5 different builds and the same results. Must be something different in the new ones. I don't have the newest ones with dual air flow but these are different from the first ones they came out with. Why do they have to change things when they work good in the first place. So I will just need to do 7 wraps with the old ones and 6 with the newer ones.

 

[2legsshrt]

Well according to steam engine that is right on.

 

[Vlad1]

Well I have something strange. I love the Kanger STM with the first ones that have only 3 air selections I go 7 wraps 3mm and get .088 but with 7 wraps on the new ones that have 4 air selections I get .098 I had to go down to 6 wraps with 28 awg to get in the same range with the new ones came out .085. I tried about 5 different builds and the same results. Must be something different in the new ones. I don't have the newest ones with dual air flow but these are different from the first ones they came out with. Why do they have to change things when they work good in the first place. So I will just need to do 7 wraps with the old ones and 6 with the newer ones.

I have a 3 hole and a 4 hole, The 4 hole has a smaller large opening in the AFC ring by a couple mm. I'm not sure if your 4 hole is the same as mine but I don't get a difference in resistance between the two, I'm usually always pretty close to .085Ω on a 6 wrap 3.15mm mandrel. You might clean the threads where the positive post attaches to the deck and re-tighten them. I actually just had the center post come slightly loose and I started getting some flaky vapor after a few tanks had gone through it, thought it was the coil but after taking it apart and the post was finger loose I think it was actually that.

 

[2legsshrt]

I have a 3 hole and a 4 hole, The 4 hole has a smaller large opening in the AFC ring by a couple mm. I'm not sure if your 4 hole is the same as mine but I don't get a difference in resistance between the two, I'm usually always pretty close to .085Ω on a 6 wrap 3.15mm mandrel. You might clean the threads where the positive post attaches to the deck and re-tighten them. I actually just had the center post come slightly loose and I started getting some flaky vapor after a few tanks had gone through it, thought it was the coil but after taking it apart and the post was finger loose I think it was actually that.

Yep I notice the wide open is not as open as the old ones. I don't like it as well. I am going to use the 2 new ones for the kanthal and use my 4 old ones for the nickel. I checked the post and it was tight. That was the first thing I though of.

 

[2legsshrt]

The newest ones have 2 air channels correct?

 

[Vlad1]

Yep I notice the wide open is not as open as the old ones. I don't like it as well. I am going to use the 2 new ones for the kanthal and use my 4 old ones for the nickel. I checked the post and it was tight. That was the first thing I though of.

IDK then, only other thing I can think you could try would be to pull the brass center pins and swap them. Wouldn't think they would have that much static resistance but???