SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[JimScotty0]

I am trying the Lemo, but the Lemo is power hungry. Tempered NI200 - 28awg - 9/8 wrap - 3mm ID - 0.101 Ω - 45J- 480º. I can hear the rattlesnake when firing.


View attachment 457722

I love building vertical chimney coils on Kanthal, but that long negative leg will be a hot one and draw lots of power away from the coil along with increasing the resistance in the wrong place. Unfortunately when self building nickel coils there will be issues with power consumption, long ramp ups, and hot legs.

 

[ramrod]

NICE!!!!! Due to come out by the end of May from Yihi. I'll be all over that black one.

View attachment 457149

Are they producing a case for the S class? Which could really use one, considering the sharper edges & date of build.

 

[Braddahbill]

I love building vertical chimney coils on Kanthal, but that long negative leg will be a hot one and draw lots of power away from the coil along with increasing the resistance in the wrong place. Unfortunately when self building nickel coils there will be issues with power consumption, long ramp ups, and hot legs.

Do you think it would make a difference if I put the long leg on the positive side next time? Steam Engine said with a 9/8 wrap it should come out to 0.121 Ω but mine came out to 0.101 Ω.

Sorry This is a Delta 2

 

[dannyben]

I am trying the Delta 2, but the Delta 2 is power hungry. Tempered NI200 - 28awg - 9/8 wrap - 3mm ID - 0.101 Ω - 45J- 480º. I can hear the rattlesnake when firing.

Hearing the "rattlesnake" is a GOOD thing. It means your device is hitting the set temperature and WORKING to keep your units at that set temperature. You have your joules set very high. Yes, that will get you to your temp faster -- and maybe needed with that long leg, but will also magnify that rattlesnake sound. Try lowering your joules to the point it ramps up quick enough for you. The lower the joules the less rapid the rattlesnake or heart beat will be.

 

[Jbryant705]

Hearing the "rattlesnake" is a GOOD thing. It means your device is hitting the set temperature and WORKING to keep your units at that set temperature. You have your joules set very high. Yes, that will get you to your temp faster -- and maybe needed with that long leg, but will also magnify that rattlesnake sound. Try lowering your joules to the point it ramps up quick enough for you. The lower the joules the less rapid the rattlesnake or heart beat will be.

I only experienced the rattlesnake sound my first few builds. When I got a build that worked better even when hitting temp there was no rattlesnake. Or if there was it was way quieter and unnoticeable.

 

[JimScotty0]

I don't think it would matter.

 

[JimScotty0]

I have heard the rattlesnake when putting too much power to the coil thus the mod tying to pulse the power to keep the temperature in limit. Increase the temperature or lower the joules to reduce the rattlesnake.

 

[WideO]

Boring update: so far every coil I made works on the Mini. I'm not very adventurous with only using 28g, but it's nice to not have to worry too much. Just a couple of wraps, set resistance, vape. I need more drama!

Did do a Riptrippers though; suddenly the Lemo started leaking like a firehose. Lesson learned: close fill port after filling.

Battery cap seems to loosen up a bit, meaning it gets a lot easier to remove/put on. That only leaves the paint for me as a negative.

Anyone know how to fit a 350J in a Flask?

 

[Vlad1]

Boring update: so far every coil I made works on the Mini. I'm not very adventurous with only using 28g, but it's nice to not have to worry too much. Just a couple of wraps, set resistance, vape. I need more drama!

Did do a Riptrippers though; suddenly the Lemo started leaking like a firehose. Lesson learned: close fill port after filling.

Battery cap seems to loosen up a bit, meaning it gets a lot easier to remove/put on. That only leaves the paint for me as a negative.

Anyone know how to fit a 350J in a Flask?

Well it would depend on how handy you are. Podunk Steam has done a very nice Flask style mod using a Battery bank.
Step by Step guide here.
This is for the birds! | E-Cigarette Forum

Edit: On a side note if your paint is really bad and you don't want to warranty it the self adhesive Monokote trim I used to cover mine seems to be holding up very well so far. And as far as I'm concerned looks very good. Only thing missing is the SXmini logo.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL) | Page 195 | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[wrice4]

The name of this sub-forum should be changed to the "TC/spaced coil" section.

Contact coils just don't work

I have contact coils, 10 wraps, in my lemo 2 and atlantis 2 rba. The lemo 2 has worked flawless. Yesterday they atlantis wouldn't fire on the sx mini, and still won't today. It's saying dry wick, no liquid. I took the entire thing apart and checked lose connections and screws, both are fine.

Otherwise the lemo 2 with my 10 wrap contact coil is working great.

 

[WideO]

Ta, I saw that earlier, and I think I'm going for that solution. The device works fine so I'm just not wanting to ship it off and wait for a new one. With the luck I had the last 6 months I'm kinda glad I have a good working mod, and I don't want to jinx it...

 

[aldenf]

I have contact coils, 10 wraps, in my lemo 2 and atlantis 2 rba. The lemo 2 has worked flawless. Yesterday they atlantis wouldn't fire on the sx mini, and still won't today. It's saying dry wick, no liquid. I took the entire thing apart and checked lose connections and screws, both are fine.

Otherwise the lemo 2 with my 10 wrap contact coil is working great.

Chances are the microcoil is shorting. Ni200 doesn't make for the best contact coils at all. Often you can get them to work when first wrapped. But most will fail sooner or later. Have you paired the SX witht he atomizer when both are at room temp? What resistance is the SX reading when it displays "dry wick"?

 

[wrice4]

Chances are the microcoil is shorting. Ni200 doesn't make for the best contact coils at all. Often you can get them to work when first wrapped. But most will fail sooner or later...

Ya I figured. Good thing it's on the atlantis and I don't have to drain it to rebuild.

 

[The Yeti]

OK guys, I guess I just don't get the whole TC thing......

I got my SX Mini about a week ago, and some Vapor Shark Atlantis coils for my Starre tank a few days ago. Besides the fact that I can draw on the TC atties indefinitely without it burning, I can't really notice a difference.

With all the fiddling I've been reading about in these threads about getting a TC coil to work correctly, I just don't understand what all the fuss is about? I mean, I can make a good Kanthal coil, have it mounted, wicked and vaping perfectly in about 5 minutes....why would I want to fuss with the nickel coils to get basically the same vape??

FWIW, I did try to build a TC coil on my Goliath with some old Ni200, 30awg I had laying around but the Goliath screws kept cutting the leads so I gave up.

I've been vaping for 6 years and building for most of that time and I've got it down to almost zero "fiddling" with Kanthal micro-coils...there just doesn't seem to be enough reward with the TC coils to merit all the fiddling to me. Tell me what I'm missing!

 

[aldenf]

OK guys, I guess I just don't get the whole TC thing......

I got my SX Mini about a week ago, and some Vapor Shark Atlantis coils for my Starre tank a few days ago. Besides the fact that I can draw on the TC atties indefinitely without it burning, I can't really notice a difference.

With all the fiddling I've been reading about in these threads about getting a TC coil to work correctly, I just don't understand what all the fuss is about? I mean, I can make a good Kanthal coil, have it mounted, wicked and vaping perfectly in about 5 minutes....why would I want to fuss with the nickel coils to get basically the same vape??

FWIW, I did try to build a TC coil on my Goliath with some old Ni200, 30awg I had laying around but the Goliath screws kept cutting the leads so I gave up.

I've been vaping for 6 years and building for most of that time and I've got it down to almost zero "fiddling" with Kanthal micro-coils...there just doesn't seem to be enough reward with the TC coils to merit all the fiddling to me. Tell me what I'm missing!

Many see the situation the same as you. Given the current state of TP, many who have been perfectly happy with their kanthal builds are holding off until the tech is more plug & play. However, for $200, the SXMini M Class is a kick-.... VW mod with the possibilities of future firmware updates for TP.

 

[beez0527]

OK guys, I guess I just don't get the whole TC thing......

I got my SX Mini about a week ago, and some Vapor Shark Atlantis coils for my Starre tank a few days ago. Besides the fact that I can draw on the TC atties indefinitely without it burning, I can't really notice a difference.

With all the fiddling I've been reading about in these threads about getting a TC coil to work correctly, I just don't understand what all the fuss is about? I mean, I can make a good Kanthal coil, have it mounted, wicked and vaping perfectly in about 5 minutes....why would I want to fuss with the nickel coils to get basically the same vape??

FWIW, I did try to build a TC coil on my Goliath with some old Ni200, 30awg I had laying around but the Goliath screws kept cutting the leads so I gave up.

I've been vaping for 6 years and building for most of that time and I've got it down to almost zero "fiddling" with Kanthal micro-coils...there just doesn't seem to be enough reward with the TC coils to merit all the fiddling to me. Tell me what I'm missing!

People have different tastes and i would say if you dont get a better vape with TC then just stick with kanthal, but i have to say i have never had a better vape than i get on my sx in TC mode and i never have to worry about getting that nasty burnt cotton taste again.

 

[Vlad1]

OK guys, I guess I just don't get the whole TC thing......

I got my SX Mini about a week ago, and some Vapor Shark Atlantis coils for my Starre tank a few days ago. Besides the fact that I can draw on the TC atties indefinitely without it burning, I can't really notice a difference.

With all the fiddling I've been reading about in these threads about getting a TC coil to work correctly, I just don't understand what all the fuss is about? I mean, I can make a good Kanthal coil, have it mounted, wicked and vaping perfectly in about 5 minutes....why would I want to fuss with the nickel coils to get basically the same vape??

FWIW, I did try to build a TC coil on my Goliath with some old Ni200, 30awg I had laying around but the Goliath screws kept cutting the leads so I gave up.

I've been vaping for 6 years and building for most of that time and I've got it down to almost zero "fiddling" with Kanthal micro-coils...there just doesn't seem to be enough reward with the TC coils to merit all the fiddling to me. Tell me what I'm missing!

Temp limiting is not necessarily for everyone. But there are some things you just cant achieve with a vv/vw or mechanical device that you can with temp limiting.

For example:
Setting the temperature to a specific point for whatever juice ratio & flavor you have. Fine tuning with temp limiting does allow you to get subtle flavor differences
Prevent overheating the wick / juice and receiving the nasty stuff everyone warns about.
Prevent the dreaded dry hit when your wick isn't wicking correctly or you run out of juice and aren't paying attention

IMO it's more consistent and takes some of the potential problems out of the equation.

It's like a car, a driver can get from point a to b with a manual transmision but an automatic will be slightly easier and less involved for the driver.

Edit: I had read earlier on folks were having more problems with the thinner 30g wire "hot legs" etc.. they ended up twisting the 30g until they received larger 28g I believe. I've only used 28g and there is no difference in the amount of time it takes me to build ni200 than it does kanthal.

 

[BNEAT]

OK guys, I guess I just don't get the whole TC thing......

I got my SX Mini about a week ago, and some Vapor Shark Atlantis coils for my Starre tank a few days ago. Besides the fact that I can draw on the TC atties indefinitely without it burning, I can't really notice a difference.

With all the fiddling I've been reading about in these threads about getting a TC coil to work correctly, I just don't understand what all the fuss is about? I mean, I can make a good Kanthal coil, have it mounted, wicked and vaping perfectly in about 5 minutes....why would I want to fuss with the nickel coils to get basically the same vape??

FWIW, I did try to build a TC coil on my Goliath with some old Ni200, 30awg I had laying around but the Goliath screws kept cutting the leads so I gave up.

I've been vaping for 6 years and building for most of that time and I've got it down to almost zero "fiddling" with Kanthal micro-coils...there just doesn't seem to be enough reward with the TC coils to merit all the fiddling to me. Tell me what I'm missing!

I've been vaping TC since December, and I've only had to install 4 new coils in my number one ADV atty, and 1 new coil in the last 2+ months. To say I'm past the fiddling part would be an understatement. (roughly 6-8ml/day at 28-30watts, dry-burn and re-wick about once a week, or 40-50ml)

edit: it actually takes me less time to build a Nickel coil than it does a Kanthal coil because I don't torch my Ni wire first

 

[tchavei]

Temp limiting is not necessarily for everyone. But there are some things you just cant achieve with a vv/vw or mechanical device that you can with temp limiting.

For example:
Setting the temperature to a specific point for whatever juice ratio & flavor you have. Fine tuning with temp limiting does allow you to get subtle flavor differences
Prevent overheating the wick / juice and receiving the nasty stuff everyone warns about.
Prevent the dreaded dry hit when your wick isn't wicking correctly or you run out of juice and aren't paying attention

IMO it's more consistent and takes some of the potential problems out of the equation.

It's like a car, a driver can get from point a to b with a manual transmision but an automatic will be slightly easier and less involved for the driver.

Edit: I had read earlier on folks were having more problems with the thinner 30g wire "hot legs" etc.. they ended up twisting the 30g until they received larger 28g I believe. I've only used 28g and there is no difference in the amount of time it takes me to build ni200 than it does kanthal.

I don't agree on the car example

I can't imagine myself driving an automatic transmission car. It's so awkward [emoji14]

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[Vlad1]

I don't agree on the car example

I can't imagine myself driving an automatic transmission car. It's so awkward [emoji14]

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

I should have used unicycle vs bicycle in the analogy.