SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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Yozhik

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Well Gents and Ladies,,, Success!
Built the Lemo 2 with a 5/4 Wrap (spaced naturally by hand-wrapping on the Bit), 26 GA Ti, on 7/64" Bit (used that as it is 2.78 mm so figured after the "sping-back" increase in dia. would end up right at 3mm), which yielded 0.23 ohms. Actually it "dressed up" not bad and didn't ding my OCD much at all.
Wicked her up with some good ol' Organic Hellifino Cotton following the Tips and "How-Tos" on reviews from those who love the Lemo 2 and aren't whining about Dry Hits or Flooding or Leaking. Figured they were the ones who knew how to properly build and wick since they weren't crying and blaming the Device for their own shortcomings.
Loaded with Liquid, locked it to the SX, locked in the Resistance, set the SX to Ti Profile, 390* F, 25 J, and Lit 'er Up.
Very Nice. Very Nice indeed.
She purred along great and zero issues with Dry Hits or Flooding. Just nice warm flavorful Vapor.
I had seen where cranking the Top Cap down can lead to leaking issues by compressing the lower O-ring out and deformation. So just tightened to "Taut". Did leak a tad from the lower Glass to Bottom Cap joint. So tightened the Top Cap down another 1/2 turn and no leaking since then at all.

Now, it did work awesome for a couple hours. Let it sit for an hour or two, then fired it up and same Lethargic Vape and overall Performance no matter what J or Temp or Mode same as it did initially with the rda.
Switched to Ni200 Profile at 17.5J and 285* F and she Lit back up and is vaping Great and the TC is humming along beautifully. Again, same as with the RDA when first upgraded the Firmware (as I reported earlier in this Thread).
Since did the same Thing, on 2 different Devices, with 2 different Builds, and having gone through all the Steps properly; safe to assume the Ti TC Test Firmware (for whatever reason) just isn't functioning on my SX as it should and is for some others.

I may try a trick I saw on one Lemo TC review (some Russian Dude I think who seemed to really know his Shinola). He switched the Lemo bottom Pin out with a Copper Pin from a Herakles. Said made a TON of difference on maintaining Static Resistance. That, as was pointed out by the Ti Master Senseis earlier, could be the Culprit on my Ti Profile Issues.
But, since it is working fine on the Ni200 Profile, the probability is maybe 50/50 at best. There is a possibility that the Test Firmware is just that finicky and touchy though. So worth a try if I can locate and procure a Pin from a Herakles. Time to go hunting.

Anyways, Success on the Lemo 2 26 GA single Coil build and its Performance. Give 2 Thumbs up to it and really digging the way it works and is designed. Great in TC and would recommend it to anyone looking for a good all around RTA for their TC Mod.
Just wish it was Black to match. Sure as with their earlier Lemo Versions, they will have a black one soon. I got Aesthetics Issues.... real Badly.

Nice job. I noticed you went with the post holes rather than under the screws. That's my only complaint with the Lemo 2, because doing that with nickel ends up with hot legs galore. Best to always keep it short as possible. Maybe Ti is more forgiving, but I'll still build it that way once I get around to switching over. Unfortunately for my spool of Unkamen TI, I've gotten really good at building great nickel coils and haven't felt the urge yet to switch.
 

JimScotty0

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Well Gents and Ladies,,, Success!
Built the Lemo 2 with a 5/4 Wrap (spaced naturally by hand-wrapping on the Bit), 26 GA Ti, on 7/64" Bit (used that as it is 2.78 mm so figured after the "sping-back" increase in dia. would end up right at 3mm), which yielded 0.23 ohms. Actually it "dressed up" not bad and didn't ding my OCD much at all.
Wicked her up with some good ol' Organic Hellifino Cotton following the Tips and "How-Tos" on Reviews from those who love the Lemo 2 and aren't whining about Dry Hits or Flooding or Leaking. Figured they were the ones who knew how to properly build and wick since they weren't crying and blaming the Device for their own shortcomings.
Loaded with Liquid, locked it to the SX, locked in the Resistance, set the SX to Ti Profile, 390* F, 25 J, and Lit 'er Up.
Very Nice. Very Nice indeed.
She purred along great and zero issues with Dry Hits or Flooding. Just nice warm flavorful Vapor.
I had seen where cranking the Top Cap down can lead to leaking issues by compressing the lower O-ring out and deformation. So just tightened to "Taut". Did leak a tad from the lower Glass to Bottom Cap joint. So tightened the Top Cap down another 1/2 turn and no leaking since then at all.

Now, it did work awesome for a couple hours. Let it sit for an hour or two, then fired it up and same Lethargic Vape and overall Performance no matter what J or Temp or Mode same as it did initially with the RDA.
Switched to Ni200 Profile at 17.5J and 285* F and she Lit back up and is Vaping Great and the TC is humming along beautifully. Again, same as with the RDA when first upgraded the Firmware (as I reported earlier in this Thread).
Since did the same Thing, on 2 different Devices, with 2 different Builds, and having gone through all the Steps properly; safe to assume the Ti TC Test Firmware (for whatever reason) just isn't functioning on my SX as it should and is for some others.

I may try a trick I saw on one Lemo TC review (some Russian Dude I think who seemed to really know his Shinola). He switched the Lemo bottom Pin out with a Copper Pin from a Herakles. Said made a TON of difference on maintaining Static Resistance. That, as was pointed out by the Ti Master Senseis earlier, could be the Culprit on my Ti Profile Issues.
But, since it is working fine on the Ni200 Profile, the probability is maybe 50/50 at best. There is a possibility that the Test Firmware is just that finicky and touchy though. So worth a try if I can locate and procure a Pin from a Herakles. Time to go hunting.

Anyways, Success on the Lemo 2 26 GA single Coil build and its Performance. Give 2 Thumbs up to it and really digging the way it works and is designed. Great in TC and would recommend it to anyone looking for a good all around RTA for their TC Mod.
Just wish it was Black to match. Sure as with their earlier Lemo Versions, they will have a black one soon. I got Aesthetics Issues.... real Badly.

I realize this isn't the "Lemo 2" Thread but thought maybe someone ay be interested in these Pics:
View attachment 470956View attachment 470949 View attachment 470950 View attachment 470951 View attachment 470952 View attachment 470953 View attachment 470954 View attachment 470957
Sounds like you did your homework! I would suggest that you use the screws instead of the post holes or you will have long hot legs. I changed out the screws too with cheeseheads to make that easier as others here have suggested. Big difference using the screws instead although my first builds I wanted to use the post holes. It just makes the legs too long.

As far as Ti on the SXM, I haven't yet built it on my Lemo 2 but it is rocking solid with similar temp control on my dual coil Zephyrus. Probably try it soon on the Lemo 2 but I still have some time left on that coil so I will leave it for a while. Tomorrow I will do dual Ti on my new Mutation X v4 dripper. My first dripper and with all the room I will probably go for around a 4mm coil to see how all that wicking does with it.

Here is a link where I got my screws: 18-8 Stainless Steel Machine Screw, Plain Finish, Cheese Head, Slotted Drive, Meets DIN 84, Right Hand Threads, Metric: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

The Lemo 2 I think is a great tank and I have only used it for TC for about 2 months steady now. Enjoy! :smokie:
 
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ThunderDan

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I don't understand how you guys are so satisfied with such a terrible tank. The airflow implied by the wide bore chimney is so deceiving, it should be considered false advertising(although much worse on the og lemo, that was a literal slap to the face insult). That, combined with the wide bore drip tip, .5ohm stock wire, peek insulator, and their marketing, one would think its the RTA equivalent of a subohm tank, but its no where close. I guess I'm just not as forgiving as y'all.
 

Yozhik

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Imo...the Lemo 2 isn't a terrible tank. It's not the best but it's a good 'single coil' tank for the price range.

Agreed. I'll probably be retiring it soon in favor of my costly authentics, but it had a decent run. For the price, no big complaints and decent flavor.
 
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Brian Fleming

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Cool, thanks for the comparison. Less airflow than the lemo 2? That'd be pretty aenemic. Thanks for saving me $35. ;)
The billow v2 is by no means anemic. Smoothest airflow ive come across yet. However, after buying 10 to 15 different sub tanks, and not liking most of them, I would say stick to what you like, and are comfortable with. Im sure in a week or two, there will be a lemo 3, billow 3, or zeph 2 to spend the 35 bucks on! o_O
 

mr.fabe

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Okay. I'm use to the evolv DNA 40 Temp control. I bought a pack of ni200 kanger coils. They work fine with evol. The sx mini burns. Same Temp. Any thoughts?

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Did you lock the initial resistance? If so, lower the settings to suit your tastes. Different chipsets, different temp settings.
 
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JimScotty0

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Okay. I'm use to the evolv DNA 40 Temp control. I bought a pack of ni200 kanger coils. They work fine with evol. The sx mini burns. Same Temp. Any thoughts?

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
I only use the one I got with the tank and it worked just fine on the SXM. I know others have also. Did you calibrate the resistance on it when it settled down at room temperature?
 
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JimScotty0

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I'm betting I didn't seeing I'm new to Yihi

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
It is a very common mistake and I bet everyone has done it at least once with their SXM. You have to treat it like a manual transmission and not an automatic and you will love the way it works. If you forget, well you know the rest of the story. lol :ohmy:
 
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Haylon357

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It is a very common mistake and I bet everyone has done it at least once with their SXM. You have to treat it like a manual transmission and not an automatic and you will love the way it works. If you forget, well you know the rest of the story. lol :ohmy:
I don't have the paper work for the device. I won't ask you to take the time to explain. Is this explained earlier in this thread?

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
 

Yozhik

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I don't have the paper work for the device. I won't ask you to take the time to explain. Is this explained earlier in this thread?

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Press both of the lower buttons simultaneously to set the resistance in Joules mode. Atty and Mod should be cool (i.e., not fired within the last 10 minutes).
 
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Hitcat44

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Thanks for reminding me of Common Sense Jim. Sometimes I get lost in the Design and don't think and apply the Basics to my implementation. I stupidly forgot the KISS Principle in Coil Legs (Keep It Short Stupid). I knew better but again just got blinded by the Design.
I usually do a re-build after the initial one on new Devices after a day of use and contemplating how to improve on what I did on the first after putting it into Play. Looking at the Pics, I see some improvements that can be done in the way I wicked it. Also, the Spacing is probably too far apart. Want to decrease the Gaps by 1/2. So had already planned to break it down, clean, and rewick this afternoon. Plus wanted to inspect the Coil to see how she looked after 3-4 Tanks worth of usage. About 1/2 way through the 3rd now and be drained enough to do so right after the usual Sunday after Lunch NASCAR Nap (51 yrs old and really love my weekly Nap Routine :thumbs:). Will just re-Coil it at the same time and go direct to Screws.
Thanks for the Link to the better Screws as well.

Dan, I get it... ya just can't stand the Lemo. It's cool.
I don't understand why you can't anymore than you don't understand why I and others do. Imagine That....
But it's cool. To each their own. No Harm-No Foul.
Suppose it may be in large part that I have a realistic Realizations, Perceptions, and Expectations that No Device is going to be an Idyllic Panacea. Just gotta weigh and consider all the Facets of what It Is. Then decide if It will "Suit" my personal Needs and Desires. Not meet and provide all my individual Demands cause that ain't Never gonna happen. Never. Not regarding RTAs/Tanks anyways. RDAs much much closer.
Again, to each His Own and it's All Good.
Personally, I really Really want an Authentic Erl Konigin. I don't particularly like or desire a bottom Fill & Air Intake. But,,,, I can and will live with it as I truly like everything else about it. Except the Price of course.
However, It Is what It Is and as such, just gonna get over it, acquire, implement, and I'm sure come to love it for what It Is.
Was one here in the Classifieds but some lucky Soul snatched it up before I could get a couple of things sold so my loss. There will be others. Or just pay $129 for a new one. No Biggie.

Besides, we can't all be Fans and avid Proponents of the same Stuff. How boring and bland would that be?
 
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ThunderDan

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Thanks for reminding me of Common Sense Jim. Sometimes I get lost in the Design and don't think and apply the Basics to my implementation. I stupidly forgot the KISS Principle in Coil Legs (Keep It Short Stupid). I knew better but again just got blinded by the Design.
I usually do a re-build after the initial one on new Devices after a day of use and contemplating how to improve on what I did on the first after putting it into Play. Looking at the Pics, I see some improvements that can be done in the way I wicked it. Also, the Spacing is probably too far apart. Want to decrease the Gaps by 1/2. So had already planned to break it down, clean, and rewick this afternoon. Plus wanted to inspect the Coil to see how she looked after 3-4 Tanks worth of usage. About 1/2 way through the 3rd now and be drained enough to do so right after the usual Sunday after Lunch NASCAR Nap (51 yrs old and really love my weekly Nap Routine :thumbs:). Will just re-Coil it at the same time and go direct to Screws.
Thanks for the Link to the better Screws as well.

Dan, I get it... ya just can't stand the Lemo. It's cool.
I don't understand why you can't anymore than you don't understand why I and others do. Imagine That....
But it's cool. To each their own. No Harm-No Foul.
Suppose it may be in large part that I have a realistic Realizations, Perceptions, and Expectations that No Device is going to be an Idyllic Panacea. Just gotta weigh and consider all the Facets of what It Is. Then decide if It will "Suit" my personal Needs and Desires. Not meet and provide all my individual Demands cause that ain't Never gonna happen. Never. Not regarding RTAs/Tanks anyways. RDAs much much closer.
Again, to each His Own and it's All Good.
Personally, I really Really want an Authentic Erl Konigin. I don't particularly like or desire a bottom Fill & Air Intake. But,,,, I can and will live with it as I truly like everything else about it. Except the Price of course.
However, It Is what It Is and as such, just gonna get over it, acquire, implement, and I'm sure come to love it for what It Is.
Was one here in the Classifieds but some lucky Soul snatched it up before I could get a couple of things sold so my loss. There will be others. Or just pay $129 for a new one. No Biggie.

Besides, we can't all be Fans and avid Proponents of the same Stuff. How boring and bland would that be?
It's all good sir, different strokes for different folks. If it makes you feel any better the Erlkonigin sucks too IMO. ;)

I don't have the paper work for the device. I won't ask you to take the time to explain. Is this explained earlier in this thread?

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Lock your resistance, and run the temp lower than a dna40 with the kanger coils. I haven't used them in a couple months, but IIRC, around 380-390F was pretty good on them, for me, with my SX M and STMini, YMMV.
 
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Hitcat44

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It's all good sir, different strokes for different folks. If it makes you feel any better the Erlkonigin sucks too IMO. ;)

HA! Awesome Retort :lol:
It's Nap-Time for us Old "Suck-Tankers" ;) after a few inferior toots of Vapor of course....
Cheers!
 

JimScotty0

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Thanks for reminding me of Common Sense Jim. Sometimes I get lost in the Design and don't think and apply the Basics to my implementation. I stupidly forgot the KISS Principle in Coil Legs (Keep It Short Stupid). I knew better but again just got blinded by the Design.
I usually do a re-build after the initial one on new Devices after a day of use and contemplating how to improve on what I did on the first after putting it into Play. Looking at the Pics, I see some improvements that can be done in the way I wicked it. Also, the Spacing is probably too far apart. Want to decrease the Gaps by 1/2. So had already planned to break it down, clean, and rewick this afternoon. Plus wanted to inspect the Coil to see how she looked after 3-4 Tanks worth of usage. About 1/2 way through the 3rd now and be drained enough to do so right after the usual Sunday after Lunch NASCAR Nap (51 yrs old and really love my weekly Nap Routine :thumbs:). Will just re-Coil it at the same time and go direct to Screws.
Thanks for the Link to the better Screws as well.
Hitcat, the problem with Ti and the Yihi chip is that compared to NI200 your wire resistance is much higher so if you want to get your resistance between .1 to .2 ohms for which is where I am shooting, it is more of a challenge. Therefore that means less wraps and then as a result less coil available for the ejuice to vaporize. Your build with a 5/4 wrap is probably about as best as you can do with 26ga Ti and that only brings down the resistance to .23 as you stated. You could try going for a 2mm coil and get an additional wrap to see how that works.

As far as the wicking, I have tried just about everything myself and like you went through all the reviews on it. I use high VG ejuice so that even poses an additional challenge for the L2. My wrap spacing is about the thickness of the wire between each wrap. You need to ensure that you don't tighten the tank glass down too tight so that the rubber gasket doesn't squeeze too much and reduce the juice channels. That area is very slim so you don't want any restrictions. Too loose and you will take a ejuice bath. The wicking should just touch the bottom of the deck and not fold over into it. Less may be more in regards to wicking with the L2. I make the wick tight in the coil but still enough to easily pull it back and forth and then fan out the fibers to loosen them up. Then I either do the fan method where the wick is in a 360 degree pattern or trim it more on the bottom to ensure there isn't too much wick on the small deck area that you have and choke up the ejuice flow. Then like I see in your photo you use a fine rod or something to ensure you have a pathway for the ejuice from the channel to the opening.

Since I am only 2 days old with Ti which makes me quite an amateur with that wire, my experience with Ti is quite shallow so take this with a grain of salt. I am finding that dual Ti coils which will then cut the resistance in half is the way to go. That in itself will pose additional challenges having to make 2 identical coils but it certainly can be done. Since I do have decent experience with the L2 and NI200 with great results, only time will tell for me how the L2 will work out for Ti since it is a single coil design.

So my final thoughts are Ti may work best for dual coils and NI200 for single coils on the SXM. I still need to have experience with coil longevity, wick longevity, coil or wick gunkyness which I think is bad with NI200, flavor comparisons, vapor seems similar, etc. I actually like working with NI200 building but find it much more difficult with Ti due to the springy factor of the SpiderSilk 26ga wire I have. My thoughts are that 28ga or 30ga may be a better wire size to get more wraps perhaps? Maybe try some 30ga Ti twisted with 30ga Kanthal A1? Spaced coils or not? I prefer the non-spaced so little need to pulse the coils and no worries with space due to the limited wraps anyway.

Thoughts or comments anyone as we venture down this path?
 

JimScotty0

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I have to wind the tp up to 480f , then works a treat mate
Quantum, I gave that a try and yep, the flavors just punched out. I even brought it up to 490F with my dual coil build and even better. I am noticing that my battery life has gone to sh..t with dual Ti with .121 ohms. Probably about half of what I was getting with a much lower resistance of .07 using NI200. My Joules setting also went from 22J to 26J.
 
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