SXmini mod ... Yihi

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nic_fix

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I just mentioned that like 4-5 pages back. mine looks shoddy. babied it. I got one of the first ones in us though. had it a while.
I said that powder and haii is a tossup. haiii is much better. $$$ and only comes in black. they should just do bare al or titanium. this is a very light powder though. thicker would not have looked nice in the metal flake. now knowing the quality I would have paid $100 more for a titanium or carbon fiber edition. in fact.... I have access to a machine shop maybe I can make a new shell. since of course the main chassis is stainless and solid. or just get a wrap. my haiii flashlights and firearms get the snot beat out of them and hold up. still, al is not a luxury metal. could have gone all stainless and weighed 5lbs. plus many including myself mentioned the fascia was not attached great. gaps. overall though the finish is 9/10. as good as most top usa manufacturers produce. hana is anodized and faired no better. while they worked.
 

Technonut

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Hmmmmm... I saw this pic over at the French forum, and noticed that the temperature setting has taken the place of the resistance reading on the display when in Joules mode.. I wonder how one will check resistance without needing to go into the wattage mode?

8611346212.jpg
 

Technonut

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The battery indicator looks a bit high for 3.84V. Am I reading that correctly? I would have expected it to be down around 50%.

Edit: If I could overcome my bottom feeder addiction, I'd buy an SXmini in a heartbeat :)

The cut-off is @ 3.3v, so you're reading it correctly. Vapor Flask is coming out with a bottom-feeder version in the near future which may interest you. ;) My REO is never too far away from me.. Variety is the spice of life.. ;)
 

erieboyz

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I just mentioned that like 4-5 pages back. mine looks shoddy. babied it. I got one of the first ones in us though. had it a while.
I said that powder and haii is a tossup. haiii is much better. $$$ and only comes in black. they should just do bare al or titanium. this is a very light powder though. thicker would not have looked nice in the metal flake. now knowing the quality I would have paid $100 more for a titanium or carbon fiber edition. in fact.... I have access to a machine shop maybe I can make a new shell. since of course the main chassis is stainless and solid. or just get a wrap. my haiii flashlights and firearms get the snot beat out of them and hold up. still, al is not a luxury metal. could have gone all stainless and weighed 5lbs. plus many including myself mentioned the fascia was not attached great. gaps. overall though the finish is 9/10. as good as most top usa manufacturers produce. hana is anodized and faired no better. while they worked.
Makes sense. I do have to say, even though I have a few scratches after a few weeks of heavy use, it is still holding up better than my vaporshark. Darn thing was flaking after a few days of owning it. Lol.
 

Technonut

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Hmmmmm... I saw this pic over at the French forum, and noticed that the temperature setting has taken the place of the resistance reading on the display when in Joules mode.. I wonder how one will check resistance without needing to go into the wattage mode?

I just received an answer to this from a Varitube rep (They have a close relationship with YiHi).. Forum rules state I can't directly copy e-mails / PM's, but here's the info:

When in Joules mode, holding the 2 up / down buttons down will provide a 3 decimal place resistance reading of the coil. This must be done when switching to Joules mode. The coil needs to be cool.. hold down the up / down buttons.. the resistance is taken, and the board is now calibrated to limit the temperature set-point.

Some additional info:

The Joules should be thought of as a power setting and independent from temperature. To explain, one can run full power and limit the temperature. Joules and Temperature need to be set, or just max out Joules and forget it. But with the combination you actually have true variable temperature, which is different than what's currently available. At the same time, the Joules must be set at least high enough to reach the temperature setting too. But, the SX350 J will not limit power at the expense of temperature. It limits the temperature, so on the display, the Joules setting never varies, while the temperature setting is always flickering around the set point.

Sounds interesting.. :2cool: I'm happy to have an SXminiJ M Class on pre-order, despite the fact that I hate pre-orders, and usually avoid them. ;)
 
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Technonut

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I wish they would have rounded the rear on the bottom. It looks like they're using the exact same body, judging by the pictures on Varitube. Not a game changer for me by any stretch but a few cosmetic changes would have been nice.

There have been some cosmetic changes.. :) You can see that the corners are more rounded in this pic:

pOSHT31.jpg



EDIT:

From another thread: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ssion/646920-sxmini-m-class-temp-control.html

Besides the obviously new chip/board...

The 510 base ring is now polished, as well as the body being a brighter (less anodized) Silver.
The edges are all smoother and more rounded
The fire button is also rounded on the edges
2 New Colors -- Rose/Silver & Silver/Black


10978592_769173336505237_1466782124692848496_n.jpg
 
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Ian444

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Some additional info:

The Joules should be thought of as a power setting and independent from temperature. To explain, one can run full power and limit the temperature. Joules and Temperature need to be set, or just max out Joules and forget it. But with the combination you actually have true variable temperature, which is different than what's currently available. At the same time, the Joules must be set at least high enough to reach the temperature setting too. But, the SX350 J will not limit power at the expense of temperature. It limits the temperature, so on the display, the Joules setting never varies, while the temperature setting is always flickering around the set point.

True variable temperature, as in the electronics are designed to run the coil at a preset temperature, as opposed to some sort of temperature protection kicking in? Sounds good. Does that mean no temp protection warnings? That would be good too.
 

Technonut

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True variable temperature, as in the electronics are designed to run the coil at a preset temperature, as opposed to some sort of temperature protection kicking in? Sounds good. Does that mean no temp protection warnings? That would be good too.

It would seem so since the temp setting on the display is flickering while in temp mode, making adjustments.. As for no temp protection warnings, I'm not entirely sure.. I just re-wrote what was sent to me as closely as possible to comply with forum rules.. ;)

I've been impressed with YiHi's accuracy in their flagship SX350 series for awhile now, and have no doubt that their Joules solution will be good, especially since it was tested as accurate and consistent using a $10,000 FLIR recently in Vegas.. :)

EDIT: Yep, that's about the jist of it.. From a Varitube rep posting on the subject in another thread:

Its definitely a different scheme from what I can tell. Basically the chip has 2 modes ... Power or Joule. Power is normal of course. When you switch to Joule you have 2 controls: Joule (think of as power as debated here earlier in the week), then you have Temp.

So if you set one out of range of the other such as low joule and high temp its never going to get there temp-wise. For example I set it to 10 Joules and 500F and it never exceeded 300F. On the other hand I set it to 50 joules and 400F and temp control kicked in.

The scheme is within 10% I believe of the set temp. Refinements are yet to be made via software but we spent considerable time with $10k FLIR and firing it and its accurate.

What you see when it tries to exceed the temp is the actual temp reading fluctuating and not the power setting. Whats actually happening is its rapidly chopping the power to maintain temp. Confirmed through discussion and many scratch pad sketches. Its still DC-DC but based on coil temp it will cycle the power as needed to hold the temp. They just chose to display actual temp readings.
 
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Impulso

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It would seem so since the temp setting on the display is flickering while in temp mode, making adjustments.. As for no temp protection warnings, I'm not entirely sure.. I just re-wrote what was sent to me as closely as possible to comply with forum rules.. ;)

I've been impressed with YiHi's accuracy in their flagship SX350 series for awhile now, and have no doubt that their Joules solution will be good, especially since it was tested as accurate and consistent using a $10,000 FLIR recently in Vegas.. :)

EDIT: Yep, that's about the jist of it.. From a Varitube rep posting on the subject in another thread:

This sounds like what the DNA40 does(power cycle to maintain temperature). What am I missing on how it's different? Regardless I'm glad this is coming out. Competition is always good!


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