Taifun GT Discusion!

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CMD-Ky

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I would try a tad more wicking material. I use rayon and put just enough in the coil to feel the resistance but not move the coil when pulling the wick through. One writer on here called the resistance feel a "squeak", an odd term for feel rather than sound but describes perfectly what he was talking about.
I can think of no other reason for the Taifun to leak out the air hole after a short use.


I'm normally a dripper but I figured I'd go ahead and get an rba for a daily. I ended up buying the Taifun and I do love it. It looks great with my V3 Flip and feels good.

I am, however, having issues with it. I didn't do any crazy builds on it. Just running a 1.3 ohm build. I'm having trouble with the air hole. It'll hit fine for a handful of pulls and then it'll leak PROFUSELY out of the air hole. Leaking all over my hand and mod.

I didn't overfill the tank so I'm having trouvle figuring out the issue. Also occasionally it spits up at me through my drip tip.

Any thoughts?


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Bill's Magic Vapor

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I would try a tad more wicking material. I use rayon and put just enough in the coil to feel the resistance but not move the coil when pulling the wick through. One writer on here called the resistance feel a "squeak", an odd term for feel rather than sound but describes perfectly what he was talking about.
I can think of no other reason for the Taifun to leak out the air hole after a short use.
+1. More wicking material at the slits will fix your problem. I can duplicate your leaking very easily if I get too little material at the slots. In my case, I will either re-wick with thicker material (KGD), or add a touch just at the slot and NOT over the coil. Easy remedy unless you're in a car or something, which is where it always seems to happen to me.
 

jaketrash

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+1. More wicking material at the slits will fix your problem. I can duplicate your leaking very easily if I get too little material at the slots. In my case, I will either re-wick with thicker material (KGD), or add a touch just at the slot and NOT over the coil. Easy remedy unless you're in a car or something, which is where it always seems to happen to me.

Thanks guys! I'll give it a shot!


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we87

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Another thing I do is make sure the coil ID is roughly the same size as the wick channels, makes it a little easier to get them filled without leaking.

I just did this to mine. Moved from a 2mm precision screwdriver to a 2.5mm screwdriver to wrap my coil around. Seems to help a lot, but hasn't fixed my gurgling completely.


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Blackl1sted

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I just did this to mine. Moved from a 2mm precision screwdriver to a 2.5mm screwdriver to wrap my coil around. Seems to help a lot, but hasn't fixed my gurgling completely.


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I have drilled out my air hole and taken the air tube and insulator out of my TGT and I get a little gurgling but no leaking out the air hole. When I fill it I take the top cap off and try to dry the deck off the best I can and then refill. Sometimes it is a little annoying but I have learned to live with it. I am using the cellucotton on my build also.
 

Bill's Magic Vapor

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Another common problem, particularly with GT clones, is that you can easily push the chamber and cap down with the top cap tube upon screwing together. I check every time now, but without a proper seal at the top of the chamber cap, you'll have leaking, gurgling, and a generally impossible time making the GT work properly. I used to notice when I was driving and had prepared a new tank, only to discover that this cannot be easily remedied while driving, lol. The O-ring at the chamber cap can also become loose, or may be of poor quality to start with, causing leaking, as well. I generally have replaced all of my O-rings on the GT's to eliminate this problem. Another problem with O-rings is that they can be too loose at the bottom of the chamber and then turn as you screw the top cap and tube in place. This results in pulling on the coil and wick, generally unsettling the careful wick placement at the slots, again causing leaking. Again, replacement of the O-rings can fix this. They don't all do this, but I have two originals, two different clones (total of 5 GT's), and some are tight, others, not so tight. Anyway, I have had problems with all of these areas.

For me, the importance of a micro coil (an ID of 0.045 - 0.055 inches) is so important that I wouldn't change the ID to try to fix the wicks at the slots. I changed from cotton balls/rolls to KGD, which has a vastly superior compression, allowing me to put more wick through a smaller ID coil, providing greater "girth" at the slots. Since changing to KGD, I have not had any slot leaking problems, once I zeroed in the right wick width and size.

One last point, if the wicks are too long, the tubes can grab the sides, or the base tube threading, and pull the coil and wick out of place, again causing severe leaking. So, while it sounds like a lot can go wrong, and it can, a quick check of the mentioned four areas of potential leaking will allow a leak free vaping experience, in my experience. Prior to learning each of these points of "vulnerability," I had leaking through the air hole about 20% of the time. Also, as the juice in the tube decreases, once you lose the pressure seal, all bets are off. The negative pressure seal is what allows the juice, which sits above the open air chamber, to NOT leak out the hole. So, keep your tubes full of e-liquid to avoid this fifth possible problem. Two cents...
 

Texaslimo

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Bill, what is KGD?

Another common problem, particularly with GT clones, is that you can easily push the chamber and cap down with the top cap tube upon screwing together. I check every time now, but without a proper seal at the top of the chamber cap, you'll have leaking, gurgling, and a generally impossible time making the GT work properly. I used to notice when I was driving and had prepared a new tank, only to discover that this cannot be easily remedied while driving, lol. The O-ring at the chamber cap can also become loose, or may be of poor quality to start with, causing leaking, as well. I generally have replaced all of my O-rings on the GT's to eliminate this problem. Another problem with O-rings is that they can be too loose at the bottom of the chamber and then turn as you screw the top cap and tube in place. This results in pulling on the coil and wick, generally unsettling the careful wick placement at the slots, again causing leaking. Again, replacement of the O-rings can fix this. They don't all do this, but I have two originals, two different clones (total of 5 GT's), and some are tight, others, not so tight. Anyway, I have had problems with all of these areas.

For me, the importance of a micro coil (an ID of 0.045 - 0.055 inches) is so important that I wouldn't change the ID to try to fix the wicks at the slots. I changed from cotton balls/rolls to KGD, which has a vastly superior compression, allowing me to put more wick through a smaller ID coil, providing greater "girth" at the slots. Since changing to KGD, I have not had any slot leaking problems, once I zeroed in the right wick width and size.

One last point, if the wicks are too long, the tubes can grab the sides, or the base tube threading, and pull the coil and wick out of place, again causing severe leaking. So, while it sounds like a lot can go wrong, and it can, a quick check of the mentioned four areas of potential leaking will allow a leak free vaping experience, in my experience. Prior to learning each of these points of "vulnerability," I had leaking through the air hole about 20% of the time. Also, as the juice in the tube decreases, once you lose the pressure seal, all bets are off. The negative pressure seal is what allows the juice, which sits above the open air chamber, to NOT leak out the hole. So, keep your tubes full of e-liquid to avoid this fifth possible problem. Two cents...
 

Bill's Magic Vapor

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KGD is Ken Gen Do (google their website). Essentially, 60 cotton pads of pure chemical free Japanese organic cotton. Cut into strips. Highly compressible and wicks phenomenally. Only $12 a box. Last a year or more. Imho, best wicking material available (organic/natural fibers), and a big improvement over cotton balls/coils.
 

Hoopie

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Oh, just finished my first build on my new Taifun GT clone from FastTech. This must be one of those rare times when ignorance is bliss. I would have been so worried if I read these posts before I did my build, lol. But I do have some experience with my KFL+V2, KFL clones, Russian 91%, Smok RSBT and UD AGA-T5

Just made a 30g 6 wrap micro on a #0 screwdriver, pulled some cotton thru and cut it off past the holes. Kept everything as fluffy as possible. I must say WOW, this atty works great! Very impressed with the feel, threading and ease of building on it. Granted, I've only been using it for a good 30 minutes but so far, so good! Taste is amazing, nice warmth and a nice working amount of vapor. I can see this atty as a go to atty for traveling and work. Enjoyable vape and discreet cloudiness :)
 

Bill's Magic Vapor

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Oh, just finished my first build on my new Taifun GT clone from FastTech. This must be one of those rare times when ignorance is bliss. I would have been so worried if I read these posts before I did my build, lol. But I do have some experience with my KFL+V2, KFL clones, Russian 91%, Smok RSBT and UD AGA-T5

Just made a 30g 6 wrap micro on a #0 screwdriver, pulled some cotton thru and cut it off past the holes. Kept everything as fluffy as possible. I must say WOW, this atty works great! Very impressed with the feel, threading and ease of building on it. Granted, I've only been using it for a good 30 minutes but so far, so good! Taste is amazing, nice warmth and a nice working amount of vapor. I can see this atty as a go to atty for traveling and work. Enjoyable vape and discreet cloudiness :)
Welcome to the Fold!

Yes, they do vape great. If your preference is an RTA, as is mine, the Taifun GT is hard to beat. And, Yes, you can read these posts and worry, but knowing how to fix any issues is important, and is required on all of these devices. And, again, once you know how to tweak any issues, you can expect years of great use, at a very modest price (clones). Compared to clearomizers, or even cartomizers, it's night and day, so I think these are a great evolution to one's vaping journey. They have been for mine. Once I got to RTA's and really good APV's, I was finally able to stop spending, searching for the next best thing. Turns out the best gear, was the best gear all along....go figure...Please let us know how it works out for over the next little while. Good luck!
 

Hoopie

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Thanks. The only time I touch my drippers now is to taste test new juices. One thing I was interested in the Taifun GT was that I saw photos of ss mesh wicks being used. So, is the chamber sleeve non-conductive? Always have to be careful trying ss mesh wicks in my other RTA's. The idea of having the clean tase of a mesh wick like in my genny's in an RTA would be sweet!
 

Bill's Magic Vapor

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Thanks. The only time I touch my drippers now is to taste test new juices. One thing I was interested in the Taifun GT was that I saw photos of ss mesh wicks being used. So, is the chamber sleeve non-conductive? Always have to be careful trying ss mesh wicks in my other RTA's. The idea of having the clean tase of a mesh wick like in my genny's in an RTA would be sweet!

I've used mesh in the GT. It sits off the deck and in the slots, which are separated from the deck by the o-ring at the base. I thought it was just ok. I know that Busardo really liked his setup with mesh, and that setup lasted for months for him. Good luck to you.
 
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