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I have had a few inquire about my hemp TGT build. So I finally remembered to take pictures this morning when I rewicked. I vary the number of stands depending on the air tube I'm using and my mood, but its usually 8-10 thru the coil and 18-20 total.
This build was on my authentic TGT with 1.2mm air tube.
29g Kanthal, 9 wraps around a 16g hypo needle (~1.6mm) for ~1.5ohms, 9 stands (3 of the 12 removed) thru the coil, 9 strands on top of each side of the coil
Good to go for several days of heavy use and takes very little time to setup
This build was on my authentic TGT with 1.2mm air tube.
29g Kanthal, 9 wraps around a 16g hypo needle (~1.6mm) for ~1.5ohms, 9 stands (3 of the 12 removed) thru the coil, 9 strands on top of each side of the coil
Good to go for several days of heavy use and takes very little time to setup
^^^Very cool!! I am very much loving running cotton in my TGT, but I think I'd like to 'branch out' a bit and try something new...maybe hemp fiber is what I'll try next! How would you compare the flavor to cotton if you don't mind me asking?
Much better then cotton IMO, as long as the hemp is good and cleaned. I never liked the flavor cotton added.
Bap, Y U no use vertical coils with that hemp? Have you tried them with the hemp fiber?
I have on a kayfun, and it was the best setup for me I found on a kayfun. But my above build is super quick and easy, plus easy to regulate the amount wick used. I have been meaning to try a vert build, but just haven't gotten around to it.
First off, a big thank you for the suggestion to invert my tank so that I'm threading metal against metal, not against that plastic tube that threaded like it was going to strip any time now. Bueno!
I finished my Coiler, the BMV 2.0 Coiler (named by State O'Flux):
Ok, added the fly reel to the coiler. Works like a champ. The drag on the fly reel was adjusted to just before the mandrel bent. 1/16" mandrel micro coil with 10 wraps of 28 gauge Kanthal A-1, 1.3 ohms, very tight. This coil does not need tweezing, compression, heat or anything else prior to installation on my topper. Makes a pretty good coil. YMMV. My two cents...
I finished my Coiler, the BMV 2.0 Coiler (named by State O'Flux):
Ok, added the fly reel to the coiler. Works like a champ. The drag on the fly reel was adjusted to just before the mandrel bent. 1/16" mandrel micro coil with 10 wraps of 28 gauge Kanthal A-1, 1.3 ohms, very tight. This coil does not need tweezing, compression, heat or anything else prior to installation on my topper. Makes a pretty good coil. YMMV. My two cents...
Except for the coils being pretty, is there any advantage of having a coil wrapping thingy? (Just curious)
We know that tension provides greater compression and adhesion, etc. We know that micro coils provide superior flavor and vapor. We know that a jig helps with my arthritis, etc. There are threads on ECF where the members are studying these jigs, these coils, etc. It's early, though, in the data department. However, a jig that allows for adjustable drag will also allow repeatable coil settings and data collection. We shall see.
Give it a try, cooler vape, just make sure to extend some or the fiber out the 2 channels for leak prevention
That for all the tips. I decided to switch from a mesh build to cotton micro-coil and I am really liking it. I was unhappy with the performance of the mesh and I didn't like the way my juice quickly oxidized (color change). I added some cotton filler to the sides of the gap to make a tighter juice seal and it's vaping really well. I didn't want to cover the coil so I just cut 2 small pieces of cotton to help plug each gap under the threaded cover. Could still probably do with a slightly looser draw. But it's rumbling like a Kayfun now. Very solid build.
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The easy-peasy way...
Finally, success ! 2nd time of trying on my FT-TGT
Not into coil winding yet, I used a 1.8ohm 4x1mm wicks from FT
$2.28 Pre-made Wires and Wicks for Atomizer (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 4-wick at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping with a 2mm silica tail in both slots but not over the coil,
after a false start - that warm and fuzzy feeling only it was my thumb feeling it - flood city - when I managed to twist the drop-down sleeve when re-assembling,
got it set-up and vaping RY4, darn, this thing is a hard-hitter compared with my PT2's.
Thanks all for the help, esp Bill's Magic Vapor for the flooding tips.
Finally, success ! 2nd time of trying on my FT-TGT
Not into coil winding yet, I used a 1.8ohm 4x1mm wicks from FT
$2.28 Pre-made Wires and Wicks for Atomizer (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 4-wick at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping with a 2mm silica tail in both slots but not over the coil,
after a false start - that warm and fuzzy feeling only it was my thumb feeling it - flood city - when I managed to twist the drop-down sleeve when re-assembling,
got it set-up and vaping RY4, darn, this thing is a hard-hitter compared with my PT2's.
Thanks all for the help, esp Bill's Magic Vapor for the flooding tips.
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although you can get a damn fine vape out of a PT with a good wick coil, its sure not in the same league as the Taifun or Kayfun!
glad things are going your way....
Any idea why my taifun gt is slowly leaking juice through the 510 connection? It just started out of nowhere and I'm not having any flooding issues. Any help or ideas on a fix would be appreciated
Hmm, not sure on that one...I have not fully dissassembled the base on my GT so I don't know whether there is a straight path thru the air hole to the 510 connection...could it be leaking down thru the gap in between the collapsible sleeve and the base?
Anyway I am interested to hear why this could be happening, so I know to look out for it on my GT!!
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I've had the same thing happen. I believe its wicking even when not in use :what: cause even on my atty stand it does it. There is no "direct" route to the 510 pin/screw but it filters down past the brass disk in there and out the screw hole :banghead:
Sent from Gallifrey using a Sonic Screwdriver via Tardis #5 :what:
No. I've had it dribble out a little from the air hole on occasion. Several reasons for this, all related to either over-wicking, and/or improper assembly, and/or any of a dozen reasons that can cause a break in the pressure seal. I have assembled the Taifun and not noticed that the chamber was "too low" to thread into the air tube. This'll cause a pretty quick mess, with instant flooding and leaking out the air hole. I didn't know that juice could get out the 510 connection. That's surprising. Thank you el Cruz for that explanation. I have not banged my base apart.....yet....and hopefully won't have to, to see what's going on down there. Clearly, there's room on the 510 screw to place an O-ring, and likely stop that leaking out the 510. Of course, if the chamber were not flooding, it wouldn't happen either.
For those that aren't up to speed on the fluid dynamics of our little tanks (Bernoulli's Principle), I recommend both blogs from State O'Flux, as follows:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rs-new-vapists-how-they-work.html#comment9688, and
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-kayfun-air-vent-leaking-thread-response.html.
Any time there is a break in the pressure seal at the chamber/air hole, then gravity and positive pressure can work together quickly to empty the tank all over you. The only thing that keeps the tanks from leaking in the first place is negative pressure, anyway. Break the pressure seal, with too much or too little air flow, too much heat, wrong viscosity, outside pressure or temperature, too little juice in the tank, etc., then leaky, leaky. Generally, a quick mop up with a pipe cleaner, and a couple of quick draws with a finger covering the air hole (to create negative pressure), will create a restoral of the pressure seal. Filling the tank and re-assembly will also generally re-create the pressure seal, provided the flooding is attended to. This could mean a new wick, a swabbing with QTip or pipe cleaner, or all the above. Good luck and Vape Strong!
These are the guts of the base courtesy of Bapgood :thumbup:
Thanks again, Bapgood!
Sent from Gallifrey using a Sonic Screwdriver via Tardis #5 :what:
Quick question.
Where can I get new insulators for my TGT?
I have an authentic one, but I'm getting some slight leaking out of my 510 connection (around the positive screw pin). From what I've read, this is because of the insulators..?
I know I can get them from smokerstore, but to get the service set and the oring set...it costs $35 to ship here, which seems a bit silly to me for a parts kit. Anywhere in the US I can get these things? Or at least cheaper? Or is there anything I can do to fix my issue without these parts? Its not much of a leak, like 1 or 2 drops by the end of the day, but I'd rather that not happen at all for a $175 atomizer..
Thanks!
Where can I get new insulators for my TGT?
I have an authentic one, but I'm getting some slight leaking out of my 510 connection (around the positive screw pin). From what I've read, this is because of the insulators..?
I know I can get them from smokerstore, but to get the service set and the oring set...it costs $35 to ship here, which seems a bit silly to me for a parts kit. Anywhere in the US I can get these things? Or at least cheaper? Or is there anything I can do to fix my issue without these parts? Its not much of a leak, like 1 or 2 drops by the end of the day, but I'd rather that not happen at all for a $175 atomizer..
Thanks!
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