Taifun GT Discusion!

[anavidfan]

Something I noticed with mesh tubes, might be just my imagination, but I seem to get more consistent wicking when the mesh tubes "float" what I mean by this is when I roll my mesh they are loose enough that the act of expansion of the cotton can be enough to push them up. I always try to roll them for as nearly friction-less fit as possible. Tight enough that they seal the hole, but loose enough they slide easily.

I'll often push them in place, and when I refill the act of cotton expansion has pushed them up slightly. might be worth a shot.

Skarab has been on my list for a while now

I LOVE the Skarab, talk about "bad hand friendly" , easiest on me. Only thing that Im a bit leary about is how long it will last compared to a true mech. I have 2 of the first Skarabs,got them used for a great price. Im used to being able to do total breakdowns and service contacts etc. The Skarab has a small board to fire it up and a little green light when its "on", the other day it did not fire and the light was red. Of course first thing I thought was *hit, its dead, but replaced the battery and all is good. Guess it will only let the battery run down to about 2.8 volts. I was surprised because it was still performing great.

Oh back to the GSL, I just recoiled one with a 2.9mm coil and got to push more cotton in. I also noticed there was one mesh tube that was real tight while the other one was lightly loose like you described. Took it off and cut just a tad and then it slipped in but not too loose or tight like it was.

Thanks CC, crossing fingers that this make it perfect every time now.

Oh BTW, here are my Taifun Atties with my Skarabs

 

[ccwaters]

Sorry I must have missed this portion. What device are you using mesh in? I scrolled back but can't place the origin or an image if you posted one. I'm a fan of mesh and hair curious if it's the gt2 you used it in as I can't figure how mesh would work well in that.

Just discussing it being used as juice transport to the wicking media, for atties like GSII, FEV, ETC.

I LOVE the Skarab, talk about "bad hand friendly" , easiest on me. Only thing that Im a bit leary about is how long it will last compared to a true mech. I have 2 of the first Skarabs,got them used for a great price. Im used to being able to do total breakdowns and service contacts etc. The Skarab has a small board to fire it up and a little green light when its "on", the other day it did not fire and the light was red. Of course first thing I thought was *hit, its dead, but replaced the battery and all is good. Guess it will only let the battery run down to about 2.8 volts. I was surprised because it was still performing great.

Oh back to the GSL, I just recoiled one with a 2.9mm coil and got to push more cotton in. I also noticed there was one mesh tube that was real tight while the other one was lightly loose like you described. Took it off and cut just a tad and then it slipped in but not too loose or tight like it was.

Thanks CC, crossing fingers that this make it perfect every time now.

Oh BTW, here are my Taifun Atties with my Skarabs

Nice stuff, one of these days I'll run into someone selling one for a price I can live with. Judging by the light research I've done on it I believe the electronics in it are pretty hardy, and would guess failure rate is really low, unless doing something silly.

If you have any positive improvements post them up when you have time.

 

[anavidfan]

Just discussing it being used as juice transport to the wicking media, for atties like GSII, FEV, ETC.



Nice stuff, one of these days I'll run into someone selling one for a price I can live with. Judging by the light research I've done on it I believe the electronics in it are pretty hardy, and would guess failure rate is really low, unless doing something silly.

If you have any positive improvements post them up when you have time.

So far so good, CC.
Had to adjust the tubes because did not realize how low the voltage was on the Skarab, took battery out and it was 2.6. Im amazed how well it performs at that low on batteries. It was chugging clouds then realised it was a bit gurgly, then took a few more hits and green light went to red. After replacing the battery, took a hit and almost dry.

I re-adjusted the tubes down a bit more snug and so far so good. Taking big inhales and long ones too, and no gurgle nor dry hits.

 

[petemoss]

I can't remember where I saw it posted, so Help me out please, what size and where to get those PTFE air tube inserts for use in the Taifun. My memory is Gone, she's Gone, oh yeah.

Back a few pages (Feb 19) dwcraig1 (post#4277) has a link to some PTFE tubing. h00ligan then gave a link for some FEP tubing from Amazon. I bought the FEP tubing and it worked fine to reduce a 3mm hole to 2mm. The PTFE tubing is rated for 500F max and the FEP 400F.

 

[chanelvaps]

I have been using the insulator from old Kanger coils to do the same thing as the PTFE tube. I happen to have a lot of them that I never used. Fixed the airflow on my Cthulhu V2, my Crown RBA and my Nebula Wine. If you have any old coils, you should look at their insulators. Had to cut mine down depending on the atty.

you can buy just the insulators here: Resistance Coil Insulator 10 Pack RUBBER OR SILICONE (CE Type Atty's, eg. Protank, Evod,T3 etc.)

 

[52anddone]

Back a few pages (Feb 19) dwcraig1 (post#4277) has a link to some PTFE tubing. h00ligan then gave a link for some FEP tubing from Amazon. I bought the FEP tubing and it worked fine to reduce a 3mm hole to 2mm. The PTFE tubing is rated for 500F max and the FEP 400F.

Thank You Sir, I knew I saw it somewhere, I went back to page 130 and started again from there.

 

[chanelvaps]

I can't remember where I saw it posted, so Help me out please, what size and where to get those PTFE air tube inserts for use in the Taifun. My memory is Gone, she's Gone, oh yeah.

Dwcraig posted these a few days ago
PTFE Teflon Tubing Pipe ID2mm OD3mm For 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament

 

[52anddone]

Thank You All, I just ordered the tubing from Amazon, 2mm ID x 3mm OD and 2mm ID x 4mm OD (just so I can work on any of my RTA's to reduce the airflow).

Edit: I got (1) FT. of each size, that should last me a while.

 

[h00ligan]

Back a few pages (Feb 19) dwcraig1 (post#4277) has a link to some PTFE tubing. h00ligan then gave a link for some FEP tubing from Amazon. I bought the FEP tubing and it worked fine to reduce a 3mm hole to 2mm. The PTFE tubing is rated for 500F max and the FEP 400F.

Oh nice job finding that. I didn't realize that I linked a different material. I'd have preferred to get the higher rates but assuming I don't issue some super dry hit for ten seconds I wouldn't imagine the tube in the hole will surpass 400F. I've been using the tubing I linked to a while now in a heron v2 (makes the heron s much better vape reducing to two mm)

Where did you find that temp info - just materials research? I saw it's basically something used for 3D printing. My approach was simple. I put it in. Fired a bare coil a fair bit and checked for dogs of degradation from the heat. When I didn't see it I ran it - I've noticed no degradation in a couple weeks or so and no flavor differences in don't feel the material is adding anything. Ideally I'd like to find some that is available and ptfe. Or something else with higher temp just for added safety but I feel I've used it enough to know its not breaking down and winding up in my vape. Fortunately the heat dissipates pretty quickly once off coil and I have been running the coil w little higher now to avoid potential issues.

I think I'm ready to Move on from The gt2 now. I don't see the Gs air being for me. But I'm sure w good clone will come out and I'll try one.

 

[h00ligan]

Dwcraig posted these a few days ago
PTFE Teflon Tubing Pipe ID2mm OD3mm For 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament

Thanks for reposting. I've gone ahead and ordered the ptfe to replace the fep. They're probably basically identical but if ptfe is rated 100 degrees higher I'll spend five bucks for peace of mind.

 

[alexmot]

Your coil/wick looks very anemic.

Increase your coil size to a minimum of 2.5mm, 3mm is better, but 2.5 works alright. The larger coil allows for enough wick material, instead of running your tails through the slots fold them in and under so the tails contact the deck, use the shoulders to dam up the wick slots.

Simple, quick, easy wicking, no leaks, keeps up even at higher wattage with full saturation. My current build is Parallel 26g .5 ohms running it @ 30 watts. As an added bonus this wicking method will scavenge off the deck and keep it dry as well. I've never had any leaking using this method.

I gave that a shot. Leaking is almost 100% gone now. I can handle blowing a drop or two out of the air holes every time I refill. It's about what I expect.

I ended up with 28G SS, 3mm ID at around 1.5 ohms. 12-13 watts. I may try to tweak the last few drops out of it.

Thanks again!

 

[chanelvaps]

I gave that a shot. Leaking is almost 100% gone now. I can handle blowing a drop or two out of the air holes every time I refill. It's about what I expect.

I ended up with 28G SS, 3mm ID at around 1.5 ohms. 12-13 watts. I may try to tweak the last few drops out of it.

Thanks again!

After reading that post I re did my 'anemic' coils/wicks. I used 28 gauge and a 2.5, did 6 wraps and came out to a beautiful 1.1ohm, lots more cotton than I usually use. Had to raise coil up higher than I usually do but working great.

 

[ccwaters]

Just so everyone knows, the "anemic" remark was not intended as a slight in any way. I just couldn't think of a better word to describe it at the time

 

[chanelvaps]

Just so everyone knows, the "anemic" remark was not intended as a slight in any way. I just couldn't think of a better word to describe it at the time

I did not think it was offensive. Actually a good term for it

 

[Phone Guy]

Does anyone have any build pictures of the GSL or GS2? Like the ones @ccwaters posted for building his gt2?

I'm just curious to see other build styles.

 

[anavidfan]

Does anyone have any build pictures of the GSL or GS2? Like the ones @ccwaters posted for building his gt2?

I'm just curious to see other build styles.

Here is how I do my GSL. WOrks great, only different thing I do now , is that I do a 2.9mm coil instead of what is in the photo (2.4) I also trim the wicks a bit so that when I put the section that goes on top , I can tuck the wicks right on top of the screws and just a tad down against the walls.

I hope others post their GSL set ups.

I set up my slimmer GS2 the basic way as shown in most how to's .

 

[petemoss]

Does anyone have any build pictures of the GSL or GS2? Like the ones @ccwaters posted for building his gt2?

I'm just curious to see other build styles.

I posted a build last Sept. for my GS2-22 using aluminum foil to fill the deep juice wells. Taifun GT Discusion! If this "permalink" doesn't work, it was post #3566.

 

[anavidfan]

I posted a build last Sept. for my GS2-22 using aluminum foil to fill the deep juice wells. Taifun GT Discusion! If this "permalink" doesn't work, it was post #3566.

Thats kinda how I do my GS ( slim one) except instead of foil I took some mesh , rolled it and tucked in snug in the wells with some space near the walls so my cotton can sort of rest there.

I think thats the photo that gave me the idea of the ss mesh rolled pretty much the same size as ( bit longer so they fit snug and dont drop off) the mesh tubes used to feed the wicks.

I thought about how many times when I use foil in baking meats, that it gets oxidized where it meets the gravy on the meat.

 

[dwcraig1]

I have put rayon in my wells before.

 

[anavidfan]

I have put rayon in my wells before.

I do put a bit of cotton, but try not to put too much or any these days. Now, I dont know if maybe I put too much, but the times I did it, I had some dry-ish experiences, not real dry but felt like the cotton was drawing the liquid down into the well and when it gets full it does go back to normal feeding. Again might have been the tails were too long and instead of feeding it was drawing it down to the well.