I've been doing a direct comparison between my K5 and TGTII, glad I got some of those K5 drip tips as it makes it easier.
The TGTII looks best on my 2380. I find them really comparable but darn that Taifun just seems "right".
Yep, I saw that coming.
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See you just time warped.... Comparing a KFL to a Taifun GT, night and day imho. The taifun (imho) was way better than the KFL.
Saying that doesn't make the KFL a bad tank, because it wasn't (isn't?) but the taifun was just better.... So I agree.
I got in on the vapor bank 5 $ Kayfun 4 tanks and bought 5 of them. They are sitting in abox for later. Still loving my Taifun GT II from Hotcig, thanks for the recommendations guys, got 15 of these for the prohibition with 10 steel tanks and various hardware for them. I think I am all set.
I got 2 of the 10's and 4 of the 5's, they make great PIF's. I still have a couple boxed ones yet.
I mostly vape at low watts. Bought a couple of aromanizers (?) (preparing for vapocalypse) too and just not my gig
I know I couldnt resist, didnt even really want one. I have a feeling their is going to be some really good sales in the future, sad but true.
For those who were talking about spaced coils and are really ..... The parallel wrap the. Single remove is the fastest easiest way to get perfect uniform spaced coils. Here's my example Of One. Took one minute or so. If that.
There were a couple of things that I learned while at work last night.
One, on the Hotcig TGTII S, don't be putting little pieces of copper wire into the hole on it's base where the 510 screw screws in. It is not a blind hole and will short against the bottom of the deck. (I wanted it to stick out a bit more and still be tight).
And two, don't be trying to talk battery safety to a guy that buys Soshine 18650's 2 for $3
One, on the Hotcig TGTII S, don't be putting little pieces of copper wire into the hole on it's base where the 510 screw screws in. It is not a blind hole and will short against the bottom of the deck. (I wanted it to stick out a bit more and still be tight).
And two, don't be trying to talk battery safety to a guy that buys Soshine 18650's 2 for $3
I just now replaced the spring on the 510 screw with a short piece of the sleeve from the deck's negative post. I had bought a Taifun service kit quite some time ago and used the screws and sleeves on my friend's TGT clone but kept all the old pieces of the clone. Resistance dropped way down to what it should be.
It looks like my 510's insulator could use a good soaking.
Here is what I did to the 510, the sleeve replaces the spring which is there to keep the screw where you put it (it does a terrible job of it).
My resistance on a DNA mod was 0.51Ω with the spring and 0.39Ω with the sleeve in place of the spring. With TC this is a huge difference, even in power mode it's substantial.
With a spring loaded 510 in the mod there is no reason for the atty's 510 to be adjustable. In fact it usually spells trouble.
Here is what I did to the 510, the sleeve replaces the spring which is there to keep the screw where you put it (it does a terrible job of it).
My resistance on a DNA mod was 0.51Ω with the spring and 0.39Ω with the sleeve in place of the spring. With TC this is a huge difference, even in power mode it's substantial.
With a spring loaded 510 in the mod there is no reason for the atty's 510 to be adjustable. In fact it usually spells trouble.
Interesting. I have a few old Taifuns that are stripped that I saved for parts. Might try this with the one that is shorting out. So the springs can be tossed as long as this plastic thing will hold the screw in?
The plastic thing is the existing insulator, the sleeve (stainless steel) lets the screw be tight.
I see. So the plastic thing is in there already. I just have to pull out the metal sleeve from the negative post and put it in. Does it have to be the negative post?
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