Both make several boards, I’m sure improvements have been made. PBusardo did a review on the Taifun (Dicodes board, perhaps even Dicodes made, but I am speculating.). The measurements are quite impressive. Check it out.
TC-TCR Temperature Control TCR Value Solution for Different Coils/Mods
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Both make several boards, I’m sure improvements have been made. PBusardo did a review on the Taifun (Dicodes board, perhaps even Dicodes made, but I am speculating.). The measurements are quite impressive. Check it out.
I only know of the Dicodes BF60 & the FL80 ($125 each) boards available nowadays. What other boards do they have?
No idea. Do not know much about Dicodes. The Dani Box and Dani 25, to name a few, are single cell 80 watt devices. If I am reading the spec correctly, the FL80 is a 60 watt board when a single cell is used. But can be configured into a 80 watt if 2 cells are used. That does not seem to fit with the single cell Dani 25 and Box.
Nor will you.
So, with your special DNA200 approved copper plug, you are saying that you never just got ? instead of the resistance value? Interesting.
At any rate, I was a DNA advocate once.
Right until I got my first Dicodes.
I understand defending things you own. You may wish to move into 2020 or at least 2019 and the same cips though.
I do. This is what 2020 looks like.
RED: Temperature
BLUE: Battery voltage
PURPLE: Live resistance
GREEN: Watts
You think by 2030 Dicodes will move away from those old school menus which takes forever to go through? And only one feature can be enabled at a time, really?
Why does that Dicodes graph give me the fear?
A bad reference buried deep in my cerebral cortex, relating to my least favourite TC chipset, the YiHi, and rattlesnaking (or stuttering)...is that the equivalent of Yihi rattlesnaking, because if so, thats a fail over the DNA and colour me dissapointed. Rattlesnaking is why i was more than happy to send my SX Mini M class to a friend in France, so there was no chance i would run into ever again in my own country...terrible TC chip, i still heard it was still rattlesnaking the version before last...and they charge a premium for YiHi mods....
Do not own a YiHi device, no real interest in one. But the rattle snake noise is associated to the PFM (Pulse Frequency Modulation) circuit modulating power. PFM and PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) are common ways to modulate power for they can be extremely efficient over their linear counterparts. With the YiHi, the rattle snake noise is a trait due to design.
The Dicodes that was demonstrated is not a PFM or PWM - this is to have a linear output but in the case of the Dani and No 6, it fails to deliver. Do not know the reasons behind this fault, but it is dropping voltage much too far and for too long, thus the vast dips in output.
The Dicodes that was demonstrated is not a PFM or PWM - this is to have a linear output but in the case of the Dani and No 6, it fails to deliver. Do not know the reasons behind this fault, but it is dropping voltage much too far and for too long, thus the vast dips in output.
I don’t know about you guys, but here is my 2c.
After what you have seen in this thread and how far and wide those TC mods overshoot.
I will never again trust a TC mod set temperature without first testing it’s pre-configured profiles
For the material I am using. If it overshoots by 25F then I am happy.
This includes DNA, Dicodes, YiHi and whatever else anyone consider higher-end.
Do I appreciate them for being high-end and delivering sound products, sure.
Do I trust any of them 90%, absolutely not.
That 10% is for the fact that they are selling their chips to anyone who can put a box together.
FYI: the YiHi rattlesnake is annoying especially after you learn
“Like me” that all that noise does not mean accuracy.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
After what you have seen in this thread and how far and wide those TC mods overshoot.
I will never again trust a TC mod set temperature without first testing it’s pre-configured profiles
For the material I am using. If it overshoots by 25F then I am happy.
This includes DNA, Dicodes, YiHi and whatever else anyone consider higher-end.
Do I appreciate them for being high-end and delivering sound products, sure.
Do I trust any of them 90%, absolutely not.
That 10% is for the fact that they are selling their chips to anyone who can put a box together.
FYI: the YiHi rattlesnake is annoying especially after you learn
“Like me” that all that noise does not mean accuracy.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The question is, why is it overshooting? And is overshooting always the case – undershooting could also be an issue! If dealing with an incorrect TCR value, then you will never achieve accuracy. This is IMO one of the largest issues with vaping Temp Control. We are working with an unknown.
All metals that we use as a coil allow for a variance in materials. Some more than others. This variance means there is no single TCR value for SS316L, T1 or even Ni200. The later 2 (T1 and Ni200) allow for a much less variance over SS316L but it is still present.
It is not until we can confirm a metals true TCR value at a specific temperature can we then look at device deficiencies to determine whether they are over/under shooting the desired temp.
All metals that we use as a coil allow for a variance in materials. Some more than others. This variance means there is no single TCR value for SS316L, T1 or even Ni200. The later 2 (T1 and Ni200) allow for a much less variance over SS316L but it is still present.
It is not until we can confirm a metals true TCR value at a specific temperature can we then look at device deficiencies to determine whether they are over/under shooting the desired temp.
There are people in this very thread who are one million times more qualified to opine on the technical aspects of temperature control vaping than myself. I own that right off the bat.
That said, what matters to me is how good the vape is. I have just enough technical aptitude in researching tc to have assumed all along that the number I see on my screen is not strictly representative of the actual objectively measured temperature of the coils.
To me personally, "good tc" means it hits consistently throughout the pull and doesn't burn my wicking if it gets dry. Whether the actual coil temp matches the setting is almost irrelevant, though it would be a bonus.
That may be a low bar, but it works for me and I prefer it in most cases with regulated devices over straight power. There IS a noticeable difference.
i love my DNA devices. They do great tc (by my above standard) and replay actually works as advertised in my experience. How it does that will probably continue to be debated and I LOVE those discussions, but in the meantime, I just know that it does
I also have a few YIHI devices, including an SX Mini G-Class, which I also love. I have found that the "rattlesnaking" on YIHI boards can be almost completely eliminated, even with their budget chips, with some tweaking, though the J series is clearly superior.
I haven't made up my mind about whether I think this is because Evolv circuits are just more accurate or if maybe it's because YIHI circuits are actually more accurate and thus display more sensitivity to the fine properties of the specific wire they see at the moment. I do understand that Evolv and YIHI use different methods of achieving their regulation of the wattage sent to the coils in tc.
Dicodes is just WAAAAAY outta my price range. It's not a matter of being a cheapskate, I don't have it. Unless some unfortunate soul were trying to dump one stupid cheap, I'll never own one.
EDIT: I thought I should throw in here that I have never paid retail price for the nicer stuff I own. Some may rightly say to themselves:
I pride myself on being a patient and frugal shopper, mostly because I don't have any choice.
That said, what matters to me is how good the vape is. I have just enough technical aptitude in researching tc to have assumed all along that the number I see on my screen is not strictly representative of the actual objectively measured temperature of the coils.
To me personally, "good tc" means it hits consistently throughout the pull and doesn't burn my wicking if it gets dry. Whether the actual coil temp matches the setting is almost irrelevant, though it would be a bonus.
That may be a low bar, but it works for me and I prefer it in most cases with regulated devices over straight power. There IS a noticeable difference.
i love my DNA devices. They do great tc (by my above standard) and replay actually works as advertised in my experience. How it does that will probably continue to be debated and I LOVE those discussions, but in the meantime, I just know that it does
I also have a few YIHI devices, including an SX Mini G-Class, which I also love. I have found that the "rattlesnaking" on YIHI boards can be almost completely eliminated, even with their budget chips, with some tweaking, though the J series is clearly superior.
I haven't made up my mind about whether I think this is because Evolv circuits are just more accurate or if maybe it's because YIHI circuits are actually more accurate and thus display more sensitivity to the fine properties of the specific wire they see at the moment. I do understand that Evolv and YIHI use different methods of achieving their regulation of the wattage sent to the coils in tc.
Dicodes is just WAAAAAY outta my price range. It's not a matter of being a cheapskate, I don't have it. Unless some unfortunate soul were trying to dump one stupid cheap, I'll never own one.
EDIT: I thought I should throw in here that I have never paid retail price for the nicer stuff I own. Some may rightly say to themselves:
That's true, but I paid 80 bucks each for my Paranormal 250C and SX Mini G-Class for instance. Both in practically new condition and that was pushin it.
I pride myself on being a patient and frugal shopper, mostly because I don't have any choice.
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@Punk In Drublic
More and more I am suspecting the rattle noise is related to dry coil detection more than modulating power, not sure if both are related,
But after swapping multiple coils because of different “Mass”, what ends up happening is this:
Say you want more mass “more wraps” 12+ wraps on a T1 coil. The YiHi seems to think the coil is dry and won’t fire no matter how much I literally flood the chamber with eliquid it still thinks the coil is dry.
If I take that massive T1-12 wrapped coil and swap it with 10-wraps of T1 or less, then YiHi fires normally and is detecting liquid being present.
Not sure of the logic behind this as it seems counterintuitive since I am using TC mode anyway. [emoji848]
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There is no dry coil detection within these devices. As a coil drys, it's resistance begins to rise, the device then modulates power to prevent that rise in resistance. Or we can say the device maintains a goal resistance that is calculated based on your TCR settings.
YiHi uses Pulse Frequency Modulation to modulate power. Where a DNA will adjust voltage in a linear fashion to modulate power, PFM applies a set voltage, but rapidly turns on and of that voltage to create a SUM of power. The longer the duration between on and off, the lower the SUM of the output will be. It is the rapid on/off state that sounds like a rattle snake. I'm sure the sounds of juice vaporizing during the on state adds to this.
Screen shot from DJLsb displays this. At the beginning of this vape (wet coil) the voltage is more on then it is off. This gradually changes as the coil begins to dry.
No explanation as to why the YiHi did not fire a 12 wrap Ti coil. There is nothing within the device that can detect coil mass. All it is doing is reading resistance. 12 wraps does have more mass than 10 wraps, but for a 28 awg Ti wire around a 3mm ID, the difference between 12 and 10 wraps is only like 10mg of mass. That is so minuscule and would only require a slight change in output to heat that 12 wraps coil to the same temperature within the same duration as the 10 wraps Ti coil. I'll half hazard a guess of +3 to 5 watts (or Joules as YiHi incorrectly uses).
A 10 wrap SS316L coil of 28 awg around a 3mm ID would be +40 mg of mass over the 10 wrap Ti coil.
Btw hope everyone is well and keeping their devices clean and disinfected!
Thanks for the explanation @Punk In Drublic
I still don't know why it is detecting 12 wraps as a dry coil although the
chamber is flooded with liquid some times. device error or build error or both?
The difference between a 28ga 3mm 10 wrap Ti coil versus a 12 wrap is only 0.14Ω+/-.
When a YiHi device reports dry coil/no liquid on a known saturated coil. It's either the wrong cold resistance, hot spots on a contact coil, a loose or cut coil leg (28ga was notorious for that) or even a loose post. The resistance rises too quickly or can even go lower than the set cold resistance due to mechanical connection failure on the coil. Those problems can cause that error as well the obvious dry wick, insufficient wick density or juice feed issues.
I gave up on 28ga years ago because it was too fragile and don't go any lower than 26ga. Twisted 28ga works very nicely if you have a supply of 28ga that you need to use up.
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