technical help needed

[hammerdin]

as u all know, I got a atomo mod (clone). using the 18650 3.7V battery (Grey Trustfire). And using IGO RDA. This IGA RDA has 2 coils, in series (I presume its call series because there are 3 post for 2 coils)

Need some help from technical folks. I am quite dumb on these. I

am having problems on 2 counts:

Issue 1.
use 30Awg with 10 coils (about 1.5mm), doesn't get hot. (cant vap)
use 30Awg with 5 coils ,(about 1.5mm) the coil get burnt and break (cant even put cotton)
use 26Awg with 5 coils, 8 Coils and 10 coils (about 1.5mm), the vap is horrible (too much unburn juices goes into my mouth and very miserable clouds. Everything taste very rough)

Q: Should I use 28Awg with 8 coils to get best vaping results? smooth and lots of clouds?

Issue 2.
My atomo with the IGA does not fire every time I pressed the button. I do not have another extra tank to test with. Even when battery is at full batt. Only when I press the corners (skirting) of the button, then it fires. But not the middle portion. But regardless, Misfire still happens. I have clean the connectors and also make sure that they are tight together.

Q: What could be the problem?

This is getting disappointing due to both problem. Can some kind souls please provide some insights? TIA

 

[Neok]

Q: Should I use 28Awg with 8 coils to get best vaping results? smooth and lots of clouds?

just change last night... after arrival and full charge of aw batt..... song song vaping since
dual 28awg/10wraps/coils/1.4mm, placed coils slightly upwards near the tip of screw
on 50/50.. warm vape n TH... clouds so so...
think 30/70 if want more clouds...

 

[hellsing-girl]

Just wondering-
1. I think you might need an ohms meter. The first combination looks like the resistance is too high, that's why can't heat up. As for why the 26awg with 5 wraps behaved like that, that because it's hot and the juices are getting fried. Check your airflow?
2. You may want to change the battery sometime soon, there are a lot of Trustfire horror stories.
3. Try 2mm or 2.5mm diameter. Don't oversaturate the cotton. Don't put too much cotton either.
I personally use 28awg with 6-7 wraps both sides, 2mm - that I think gives me about 0.5 ohms. Before you put your cotton on, make sure both your coils light up evenly at the same timing.

 

[Jarmun]

Hmm. Not sure if I'm reading this right... Assuming you are using dual coil config, in 2) dual 30awg 5 wraps you get 1.5ohms? The coils must be pretty big.

If it's a standard micro-coil, you are probably going much lower than your readings. But 30awg usually don't pop even when subbing, unless you over tightened or had a hotspot not sorted out.

Perhaps can share your coil diameter?

Edit: ah, read wrongly, thought I saw ohm rather than mm. I blame my phone font size.

Still, the tightening n hotspots may be a prob. Dual 10wraps take abit longer to heat up but should fire. check mech mod.

 

[hammerdin]

Just wondering-
1. I think you might need an ohms meter. The first combination looks like the resistance is too high, that's why can't heat up. As for why the 26awg with 5 wraps behaved like that, that because it's hot and the juices are getting fried. Check your airflow?
2. You may want to change the battery sometime soon, there are a lot of Trustfire horror stories.
3. Try 2mm or 2.5mm diameter. Don't oversaturate the cotton. Don't put too much cotton either.
I personally use 28awg with 6-7 wraps both sides, 2mm - that I think gives me about 0.5 ohms. Before you put your cotton on, make sure both your coils light up evenly at the same timing.

yes, I do have Ohm Meter.
1, For the 30awg, am getting at least 2ohms for whichever set up.
2, For 26 awg, its less than 0.7 - 0.5 ohms for whichever setup (and the juice becomes too juicy in my mouth, if u get what I mean)

airflow fully open because the IGO RDA does not have any control for the airflow. tsk tsk.

oh, another thing, no matter how I adjust, both coils does not light up at the same time. any thing I should take note?

 

[hammerdin]

Hmm. Not sure if I'm reading this right... Assuming you are using dual coil config, in 2) dual 30awg 5 wraps you get 1.5ohms? The coils must be pretty big.

If it's a standard micro-coil, you are probably going much lower than your readings. But 30awg usually don't pop even when subbing, unless you over tightened or had a hotspot not sorted out.

Perhaps can share your coil diameter?

Edit: ah, read wrongly, thought I saw ohm rather than mm. I blame my phone font size.

Still, the tightening n hotspots may be a prob. Dual 10wraps take abit longer to heat up but should fire. check mech mod.

the 30awg does not light up.... even if it does, it takes forever....

mech mod, is my other question. y pressing the button have misfire often? what to keep a lookout for?

 

[Jarmun]

the 30awg does not light up.... even if it does, it takes forever....

mech mod, is my other question. y pressing the button have misfire often? what to keep a lookout for?

Sounds more like mod problem (or even batt prob) than coil problem to me. Unless that "forever" is half a second or so. Different mech, due to their diff construct, have differing issues. But it usually boils down to contact (or the lack thereof).

I dun use atomo, but i would suggest checking after sitting the atty on the top cap, the mod's telescopic pin is adjusted to touch the atty's pin. Then check if the battery rattles, if it does, the misfire may be due to the throw (adjust from bottom contact after setting your atty on the top cap). If both have been set and the battery dun rattle, but misfiring continue, check for switch defect. ..... and, before all that, you did check your atty and mod does not come with dead short, right?

Good luck troubleshooting, its part of the fun.

 

[Darkangel]

It might be the battery problem, personally I had a couple of trustfire batteries during my early vaping days. Trustfire batteries are not good for mech mod. Change you battery to AW 18650 or Sony VTC4

As I did a 0.8ohm on drip tank on Astro using a grey trustfire, initially was ok but prolong usage the battery became weak and till one day it doesn't fire like when battery was new. I change to AW and was good till today.

Try changing your battery and have a good clean up on your mod. Mech mod after long usage there is a carbon build up on the internals wall of your mod.

 

[gabriel06]

Show us a picture of your coils.

My guess would be uneven heating.

And for the cotton wick. do not over twist. less is more.

 

[hammerdin]

Sounds more like mod problem (or even batt prob) than coil problem to me. Unless that "forever" is half a second or so. Different mech, due to their diff construct, have differing issues. But it usually boils down to contact (or the lack thereof).

I dun use atomo, but i would suggest checking after sitting the atty on the top cap, the mod's telescopic pin is adjusted to touch the atty's pin. Then check if the battery rattles, if it does, the misfire may be due to the throw (adjust from bottom contact after setting your atty on the top cap). If both have been set and the battery dun rattle, but misfiring continue, check for switch defect. ..... and, before all that, you did check your atty and mod does not come with dead short, right?

Good luck troubleshooting, its part of the fun.

bro, few questions need more help from u...
1. My IGO and Atomo or any other mod with tank, how do I see if their contact point touches each other? coz they are in the middle of the circle, so cannot visually see. (I hope u know what I mean from my lousy explanation). I really think this would be useful for me to check, but I really dunno how to do it.

2. how to check if atty and mod short dead and what it actually means?

Pardon me for the Noob questions.

 

[hammerdin]

It might be the battery problem, personally I had a couple of trustfire batteries during my early vaping days. Trustfire batteries are not good for mech mod. Change you battery to AW 18650 or Sony VTC4

As I did a 0.8ohm on drip tank on Astro using a grey trustfire, initially was ok but prolong usage the battery became weak and till one day it doesn't fire like when battery was new. I change to AW and was good till today.

Try changing your battery and have a good clean up on your mod. Mech mod after long usage there is a carbon build up on the internals wall of your mod.

will try changing batt..... mod is relatively new thou.... about 2 weeks....

 

[hammerdin]

Show us a picture of your coils.

My guess would be uneven heating.

And for the cotton wick. do not over twist. less is more.

noted with thanks.....

actually now tried 28awg, make sure even heating, and less twist of the wick, and also surprise me: I change the tip of the IGO.... from a small hole to a bigger hole

viola, the vaping is back to normal!!!!

but the firing of the mod still intermitten..... awaiting for Jarmun to advice and I can check where is the fault....

 

[Jarmun]

1. My IGO and Atomo or any other mod with tank, how do I see if their contact point touches each other? coz they are in the middle of the circle, so cannot visually see.

2. how to check if atty and mod short dead and what it actually means?

For 1, iirc the atomo has telescopic 510 pin. Which means you can loosen the 510 pin on the mod top cap, screw the atty in fully, then screw the mod's top cap's 510 pin in fully until it touches the atty (you'll feel it cant go in anymore, but careful not to over-tighten). This will create a good connection from atty to batt.

For 2, you'll need a multimeter with continuity test (even a $5 cheapo version will do). After cleaning off the machine oil, removed any unwanted bits and pieces leftover from machining (and poor worksmanship, which is usually needed for clones we use), dry it and then do a continuity test from the atty's 510 pin and thread (without coils). The meter should show no continuity (no shorts), usually by showing a "1" on screen. If it beeps or do any other funny stuff (as stated in its manual) to indicate there's a short, you'll have to find out where it's shorting from and rectify it before using the atty, or you'll get really undesirable results.

Same goes for mods, but usually it will be very rare it happens (lesser parts to screw up), and it's usually rather noticeable. No harm checking though, it's a good practice to incorporate into our welcoming ritual for new toys.

Edit: Oh, dead shorts means there's actually a short circuit somewhere which creates a "no resistance" path for electricity, rendering the atty/mod inoperative coz the currents dun travel to where you want it to go. Usually occurs with poor insulation, unwanted debris, poor set up of coils (for example touching top cap/walls) or poor machining.

Edit2: oh, coils touching any part of the atty other than the posts (such as the deck, etc) is a no-no too.

 

[Jarmun]

Blah, i'm disorganised when trying to explain troubleshooting.

Forgot to add that for 1, you can also verify (for the rare event whereby the mod's 510 pin is actually too short for a deep threadwell, which screws in fully without touching the atty) by using multimeter (in continuity mode) to touch both the mod's 510 pin from below (where it's supposed to touch battery) and the atty's positive post. But really, it's only for troubleshooting, no mods i know of has such a goondu design.

 

[hammerdin]

bro, I bought a multimeter.... and this is exactly what happen.

First I fire the atomo without the tank and tested the voltage. gd 4.2V.
this happen every time I fire, meaning there is no short.

then I tested the tank on another mod. It works perfectly as well. meaning tank is ok also.

lastly, I took out the top cap. look at the first pic in this link https://www.fasttech.com/forums/1542600/t/1133712/atomo-breakdown
on the left is the top cap, then followed by the black O-ring, which has screws in it. followed by the next screw, which can only be inserted into the black O-ring (this is the top firing pin), and then the last screw on the right, which goes into the top firing pin (this link to the battery). see this link on the 2 screws ATOMO V2 TOP CAP CONTACT PIN

then when all are inserted, it will look something like in this link for the top cap Hands on with Nemesis & Atomo clone - Vaping Wern

that's where the problem lies. The top pin is too short! and there is no way to push it up further because of the black 0-ring. and the black O-ring is needed due to the threads.

Is there anyway to lengthen the middle top pin?

I tried with 2 tanks, both not working due to the top pin too short....

this is really goodu.....#$%^&*((*&

 

[EU6EN3]

firstly... lim peh ting dao tao gong gong... My fren that is not an O-ring.. It is a insulator/Delin washer/Spacer whatever but not o-ring.

Ok back to the topic, you are saying the top pin is too short.. Are you talking about the "Top CAP" pin or "Bottom Cap" pin?

1) If it is the top cap pin.. if i am not wrong. It is a double screw pin. which mean to say in this pic TOP CAP< http://www.fasttech.com/forums/1542600/t/1133712/atomo-breakdown> second screw from the right (SS screw) have a hole for the copper pin(first pin on the right). you can adjust the copper pin for contacting point with battery by screwing all the way in or half way in.

2) If you are talking about the bottom cap pin. (sometime the bottom washer/O-ring is too thick) by adding an o-ring (those you find on a drip tip) or just windin up some wire as washer to the copper pin make the pin higher thus better contacts.

 

[hammerdin]

kindly please do not use "lim peh". it is not very nice....

it's actually (1).

Yes, the second screw from the right (SS screw) already all the way in and cannot go up anymore. anyway else to do it?

TIA

 

[Outdated]

When using thicker wire like 26AWG, you probably want to use 2mm or 2.4mm screwdriver to build your coil. Try to do 5 loops dual coil on 2.4mm screwdriver, this IMO gives a good vapor and flavor. Also make sure you have enough airholes on the igo cap, start with 2mm each. If you over wick you will tend to get spit back (juice in mouth).

For me, 1.5mm inner diameter is only suitable for 28AWG or above, else your cotton will burn before you can get a good drag.

 

[Outdated]

kindly please do not use "lim peh". it is not very nice....

it's actually (1).

Yes, the second screw from the right (SS screw) already all the way in and cannot go up anymore. anyway else to do it?

TIA

You can try, make sure that the black part (delrin insulator) is fully and tightly screwed in, then you put the first screw. If this dont work means your tank 510 connector is too short, which is very rare. I dont know about atomo, this design is similar to Chi You but my chi you has no such issue because the positive pin goes all the way in it has 4mm clearance before touching the atty. 1 thing you can do is to sand off the wider part of the delrin insulator (not all the way, else may lead to shorting), this way you can screw it in more.

 

[hammerdin]

You can try, make sure that the black part (delrin insulator) is fully and tightly screwed in, then you put the first screw. If this dont work means your tank 510 connector is too short, which is very rare. I dont know about atomo, this design is similar to Chi You but my chi you has no such issue because the positive pin goes all the way in it has 4mm clearance before touching the atty. 1 thing you can do is to sand off the wider part of the delrin insulator (not all the way, else may lead to shorting), this way you can screw it in more.

already tried to screw in the black part max, both IGO and KF. but 501 still no contact....
guess I have to sand.