This is what happens when I forget to hit the "post quick reply" button at night and click it before my coffee in the morning. lol
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
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This is what happens when I forget to hit the "post quick reply" button at night and click it before my coffee in the morning. lol
Here's the super swamper way to make perfect tensioned contact micro coils every time. The video was made in my alter ego Rufus 
http://youtu.be/pY1Q99_dOFw
http://youtu.be/pY1Q99_dOFw
Here's the super swamper way to make perfect tensioned contact micro coils every time. The video was made in my alter ego Rufus
http://youtu.be/pY1Q99_dOFw
Doggonit supe…ya did it ag'in!
:'-)
Good luck all.
Centralized here from my original post Re: Tension with a coiler? Not.
Cannot. Rotation coilers bend the wire around the bit. It's external force and that's called forming in the mechanics of physics. Strain is stretch, the second way to shape things in nature is tension, a way to apply it. The advantage of using strain is that you pass the energy actually into the wire. That stored energy results in its wanting to keep it's shape. It will always want to be a coil.
Another advantage is that strain allows you to get the wire as close together as it can to adjacent turns. Compression (squeezing won't do that) as the wire wants to go back to the shape it was originally formed. Strain removes that imprint in the metal and tensioned turns want to go in the direction they were headed that is, towards the inside of the turn next to it. In other words, the turns always pull in towards each other after they reach adhesion (can't get any closer). Not the place where they were formed. It's a huge advantage when you pulse and oxidize them as you can't get tighter contact in nature. I'm afraid the coilers commonly available can't do that. But the coils they make can be pretty. They just don't function like a true uniformly oxidized microcoil.
The coiler would be a great solution if strain didn't exist and all we could do was compress. The problem there is that to complete a microcoil you must finish oxidizing it. We do this by firing the wire electrically. If the wire has imperfections like a previously carbonized surface the alumina oxidation will not form on its exterior. Alumina is conductive and radiates heat. Carbonation is also conductive of electricity and this will make the wind unstable without uniform oxidation (insulation), your wind will go hot (higher resistance).
So the definition of a microcoil is not merely it's shape but it's function, the most important part to us as vapers.
Use strain and you will see a big improvement in your coils and the resulting vape. What's more it's easy and repeatable. Something also on the down side for coilers particularly with thin wire which we're using more these days for variable builds and duals.
Good luck V.
Cannot. Rotation coilers bend the wire around the bit. It's external force and that's called forming in the mechanics of physics. Strain is stretch, the second way to shape things in nature is tension, a way to apply it. The advantage of using strain is that you pass the energy actually into the wire. That stored energy results in its wanting to keep it's shape. It will always want to be a coil.
Another advantage is that strain allows you to get the wire as close together as it can to adjacent turns. Compression (squeezing won't do that) as the wire wants to go back to the shape it was originally formed. Strain removes that imprint in the metal and tensioned turns want to go in the direction they were headed that is, towards the inside of the turn next to it. In other words, the turns always pull in towards each other after they reach adhesion (can't get any closer). Not the place where they were formed. It's a huge advantage when you pulse and oxidize them as you can't get tighter contact in nature. I'm afraid the coilers commonly available can't do that. But the coils they make can be pretty. They just don't function like a true uniformly oxidized microcoil.
The coiler would be a great solution if strain didn't exist and all we could do was compress. The problem there is that to complete a microcoil you must finish oxidizing it. We do this by firing the wire electrically. If the wire has imperfections like a previously carbonized surface the alumina oxidation will not form on its exterior. Alumina is conductive and radiates heat. Carbonation is also conductive of electricity and this will make the wind unstable without uniform oxidation (insulation), your wind will go hot (higher resistance).
So the definition of a microcoil is not merely it's shape but it's function, the most important part to us as vapers.
Use strain and you will see a big improvement in your coils and the resulting vape. What's more it's easy and repeatable. Something also on the down side for coilers particularly with thin wire which we're using more these days for variable builds and duals.
Good luck V.
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mac, I can appreciate how much your guidance has helped many others and I really don't mean to interrupt that or debate anything you say here just for the sake of debating, but it may be going just a little too far to say that the only way to get a perfect coil is by wrapping under tension.
again, not looking to debate or dispute, but even when you are wrapping under tension you are still only forming the wire, and the forming is only taking place at one very small area of the wire at a time, particularly right where it is being formed from a straight to a coil . I'll agree that it can be easier to control under tension, and the coiling jigs can be wonderful for anyone, especially if they are having problems but personally I've never tension wrapped a coil, I do all of my coils just by simply twisting a rod and forming the wire around the rod by just pinching the wire at the leading edge of where it starts to wrap around the rod and I can tell you that coils can be made just as perfect without necessarily having to be wrapped while under tension.
I only say this so everyone reading doesn't have to think that this is the only way to do a good coil
again I say this not to discredit or debate you in any way, but just to say that tension is not an absolute requirement, it can be an aid and a really good aid at that, but it is not the only way possible...
all of my coils look like this ^^and there done without any tension on the wire, I just cut maybe 10" or so off from the spool before hand and then it just hangs freely as I wrap the coil, all tension and forming happens right at the exact point where the wire is transformed from a straight to a curve. I also get what you are calling adhesion by preloading the wire back on itself at this point of transition while pinching it just as you do by pulling the wire slightly back towards the coil .. regardless of tension or not, all forming is happening right where the wire transitions from straight to curved and no where else, no matter how much or little tension there is before this actual point of transition.
where tension aids is by really concentrating the reforming area to a very small area very sharply at this transition point and increases the forces and allows consistency with ease, all good things, no argument there at all, and it also helps with what you are calling adhesion by preloading the wire back on itself while winding so it is a great aid, just saying it's not the only way or absolutely required.
again, not looking to debate or dispute, but even when you are wrapping under tension you are still only forming the wire, and the forming is only taking place at one very small area of the wire at a time, particularly right where it is being formed from a straight to a coil . I'll agree that it can be easier to control under tension, and the coiling jigs can be wonderful for anyone, especially if they are having problems but personally I've never tension wrapped a coil, I do all of my coils just by simply twisting a rod and forming the wire around the rod by just pinching the wire at the leading edge of where it starts to wrap around the rod and I can tell you that coils can be made just as perfect without necessarily having to be wrapped while under tension.
I only say this so everyone reading doesn't have to think that this is the only way to do a good coil
again I say this not to discredit or debate you in any way, but just to say that tension is not an absolute requirement, it can be an aid and a really good aid at that, but it is not the only way possible...
all of my coils look like this ^^and there done without any tension on the wire, I just cut maybe 10" or so off from the spool before hand and then it just hangs freely as I wrap the coil, all tension and forming happens right at the exact point where the wire is transformed from a straight to a curve. I also get what you are calling adhesion by preloading the wire back on itself at this point of transition while pinching it just as you do by pulling the wire slightly back towards the coil .. regardless of tension or not, all forming is happening right where the wire transitions from straight to curved and no where else, no matter how much or little tension there is before this actual point of transition.
where tension aids is by really concentrating the reforming area to a very small area very sharply at this transition point and increases the forces and allows consistency with ease, all good things, no argument there at all, and it also helps with what you are calling adhesion by preloading the wire back on itself while winding so it is a great aid, just saying it's not the only way or absolutely required.
Centralized here from my original post Re: Tension with a coiler? Not.
Cannot. Rotation coilers bend the wire around the bit. It's external force and that's called forming in the mechanics of physics. Strain is stretch, the second way to shape things in nature is tension, a way to apply it. The advantage of using strain is that you pass the energy actually into the wire. That stored energy results in its wanting to keep it's shape. It will always want to be a coil.
Another advantage is that strain allows you to get the wire as close together as it can to adjacent turns. Compression (squeezing won't do that) as the wire wants to go back to the shape it was originally formed. Strain removes that imprint in the metal and tensioned turns want to go in the direction they were headed…that is, towards the inside of the turn next to it. In other words, the turns always pull in towards each other after they reach adhesion (can't get any closer). Not the place where they were formed. It's a huge advantage when you pulse and oxidize them as you can't get tighter contact in nature. I'm afraid the coilers commonly available can't do that. But the coils they make can be pretty. They just don't function like a true uniformly oxidized microcoil.
The coiler would be a great solution if strain didn't exist and all we could do was compress. The problem there is that to complete a microcoil you must finish oxidizing it. We do this by firing the wire electrically. If the wire has imperfections like a previously carbonized surface the alumina oxidation will not form on its exterior. Alumina is conductive and radiates heat. Carbonation is also conductive…of electricity…and this will make the wind unstable without uniform oxidation (insulation), your wind will go hot (higher resistance).
So the definition of a microcoil is not merely it's shape but it's function, the most important part to us as vapers.
Use strain and you will see a big improvement in your coils and the resulting vape. What's more it's easy and repeatable. Something also on the down side for coilers particularly with thin wire which we're using more these days for variable builds and duals.
Good luck V.
View attachment 411443 View attachment 411444 View attachment 411445
I have a coiler that makes great tensioned micro coils, Mac. Of course, I don't even know what a Kuro coiler is ATM, so maybe that's something different, or perhaps I'm not understanding your point. Personally, I find it quite hard to beat mechanical advantage in my coils. Just seeking clarification, my friend!
mac, I can appreciate how much your guidance has helped many others and I really don't mean to interrupt that or debate anything you say here just for the sake of debating, but it may be going just a little too far to say that the only way to get a perfect coil is by wrapping under tension.
again, not looking to debate or dispute, but even when you are wrapping under tension you are still only forming the wire, and the forming is only taking place at one very small area of the wire at a time, particularly right where it is being formed from a straight to a coil . I'll agree that it can be easier to control under tension, and the coiling jigs can be wonderful for anyone, especially if they are having problems but personally I've never tension wrapped a coil, I do all of my coils just by simply twisting a rod and forming the wire around the rod by just pinching the wire at the leading edge of where it starts to wrap around the rod and I can tell you that coils can be made just as perfect without necessarily having to be wrapped while under tension.
I only say this so everyone reading doesn't have to think that this is the only way to do a good coil
again I say this not to discredit or debate you in any way, but just to say that tension is not an absolute requirement, it can be an aid and a really good aid at that, but it is not the only way possible...
all of my coils look like this ^^and there done without any tension on the wire, I just cut maybe 10" or so off from the spool before hand and then it just hangs freely as I wrap the coil, all tension and forming happens right at the exact point where the wire is transformed from a straight to a curve. I also get what you are calling adhesion by preloading the wire back on itself at this point of transition while pinching it just as you do by pulling the wire slightly back towards the coil .. regardless of tension or not, all forming is happening right where the wire transitions from straight to curved and no where else, no matter how much or little tension there is before this actual point of transition.
where tension aids is by really concentrating the reforming area to a very small area very sharply at this transition point and increases the forces and allows consistency with ease, all good things, no argument there at all, and it also helps with what you are calling adhesion by preloading the wire back on itself while winding so it is a great aid, just saying it's not the only way or absolutely required.
Turbo is one who can pull this off. I've seen his method (tried it too but it tore my girl fingers up) and while it doesn't apply a whole lot of tension, it does make for a very uniform element. IMO uniform forming (turbos method) is a hell of a lot better than grabbing wire and wrapping it around something. I also say that the way he can precisely regulate the pressure with his finger is far superior to those Koilers / masters. They are just sketchy the way you have to work em and wonder what's gonna be there when you're done turning the deal.
First and foremost Brilliant discussions, teaching aids and explanations by all. Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!
I just started using the coil gizmo and thanks to Russ's videos, I also went ahead and got a Reo Grand LP Silver Hammetone with an RM2 three weeks ago. Now looking to get the Odin, but of course they are still not out so just today went with the RM4. Thanks Russ Supa X for doing all those vids, saved me a whole lot of time and money and got me on the right path on my vaping journey.
Questions by a coil wrapping newb, that would be me, as far as the dynamics of coil functionality as it pertains to even heating/longevity/etccc....
What I mean is:
I have seen coils wrapped all different ways, jigs, gizmos, tools, bits, toothpicks, cotton stubs etccc......
I have seen people heating and not heating the wire before wrapping
Now I am using the coil gizmo, hand holding the A1 kanthal G29 spool (Thanks Russ) , obviously not an even tension, but some tension, non-heat treated micro contact wraps.
What would be the difference should I now go out and buy Super Swamper's fishing rod, flywheel, heating hose bypass cap and heat the wire before wrapping?
I am missing the above four ingredients in my vaping journey and was wondering how or what vape change will be had by adding consistent tension and using pre-heat treated wire?
This Thread Rocks by the way! Glad I came upon it
I just started using the coil gizmo and thanks to Russ's videos, I also went ahead and got a Reo Grand LP Silver Hammetone with an RM2 three weeks ago. Now looking to get the Odin, but of course they are still not out so just today went with the RM4. Thanks Russ Supa X for doing all those vids, saved me a whole lot of time and money and got me on the right path on my vaping journey.
Questions by a coil wrapping newb, that would be me, as far as the dynamics of coil functionality as it pertains to even heating/longevity/etccc....
What I mean is:
I have seen coils wrapped all different ways, jigs, gizmos, tools, bits, toothpicks, cotton stubs etccc......
I have seen people heating and not heating the wire before wrapping
Now I am using the coil gizmo, hand holding the A1 kanthal G29 spool (Thanks Russ) , obviously not an even tension, but some tension, non-heat treated micro contact wraps.
What would be the difference should I now go out and buy Super Swamper's fishing rod, flywheel, heating hose bypass cap and heat the wire before wrapping?
I am missing the above four ingredients in my vaping journey and was wondering how or what vape change will be had by adding consistent tension and using pre-heat treated wire?
This Thread Rocks by the way! Glad I came upon it
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Couple of comments and no arguments just looking for education. First even though the Loki site states sold out it's really under maintenance if you call or email Craig with your order he can invoice and ship your products. Second again not arguing it would be like disputing Bill on juice making (he is the master). If I understand and I'm just starting to look and educate myself on tensioned coils so please correct me. If I took a kuro koiler and left the wire on the spool while running the end through the mandrel handle. I've tried bending the wire to hold it but I'm thinking a small hose clamp to hold it would work better. Then turned the handle while using tension then I'm thinking it's similar to a pin vise. I've also tried one where I used the screws in the top cap as rollers but my wire broke so still thinking on this method. True it's not the way the koiler was designed to be used but I think there is a tensioned coil here somewhere.
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Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
If the entire coiler turned with the wire straight and under tension with a forming pin merely acting as a guide…you could achieve strain.
Me, I can't make anything but pancakes with it using anything thinner than 24 AWG. Then it starts to resemble a coil.
<shrug>
I'd welcome any tool that just works for most of us.
Good luck.
mac, I can appreciate how much your guidance has helped many others and I really don't mean to interrupt that or debate anything you say here just for the sake of debating, but it may be going just a little too far to say that the only way to get a perfect coil is by wrapping under tension.
again, not looking to debate or dispute, but even when you are wrapping under tension you are still only forming the wire, and the forming is only taking place at one very small area of the wire at a time, particularly right where it is being formed from a straight to a coil . I'll agree that it can be easier to control under tension, and the coiling jigs can be wonderful for anyone, especially if they are having problems but personally I've never tension wrapped a coil, I do all of my coils just by simply twisting a rod and forming the wire around the rod by just pinching the wire at the leading edge of where it starts to wrap around the rod and I can tell you that coils can be made just as perfect without necessarily having to be wrapped while under tension.
I only say this so everyone reading doesn't have to think that this is the only way to do a good coil
again I say this not to discredit or debate you in any way, but just to say that tension is not an absolute requirement, it can be an aid and a really good aid at that, but it is not the only way possible...
all of my coils look like this ^^and there done without any tension on the wire, I just cut maybe 10" or so off from the spool before hand and then it just hangs freely as I wrap the coil, all tension and forming happens right at the exact point where the wire is transformed from a straight to a curve. I also get what you are calling adhesion by preloading the wire back on itself at this point of transition while pinching it just as you do by pulling the wire slightly back towards the coil .. regardless of tension or not, all forming is happening right where the wire transitions from straight to curved and no where else, no matter how much or little tension there is before this actual point of transition.
where tension aids is by really concentrating the reforming area to a very small area very sharply at this transition point and increases the forces and allows consistency with ease, all good things, no argument there at all, and it also helps with what you are calling adhesion by preloading the wire back on itself while winding so it is a great aid, just saying it's not the only way or absolutely required.
Hey turbo, nice to see ya. That's a beautiful wind bro.
My very first explorations were forming thin gauge micro's on screwdrivers and screws exactly as you suggest, finger pressure. I'd add that I kept on doing hand wound open coils for quite some time for comparison including ways to thread 'em with wicks. Because it's just not about the coil or resistance but utility. I'd agree that micro's, as in small, are not for everybody.
I don't recall either ever sayin' tensioned microcoils were perfect. That's impossible. I do disagree tho that a tension wind is forming. Forming is not tension, the latter is stretch. Two different physical forces. And they each convey different attributes to the wire specifically Kanthal as a benefit of alumina oxidation, for vaporization.
Also adhesion as I've expressed it is merely not contact but the closest possible contact. Squeezing wire together only approaches it unless heat and pressure are applied, like torching, or compression during pulsing.
What I've claimed is that strain helps us accomplish the closest wire turn proximity. Formed wire tends to want to resume that state in which it was wound. It requires compression to get it tight. Compression can slightly deform wire creating greater pressure at some points, less in others. Deviations in dia., outright gaps and lack of roundness of the wire itself whether present in the metal or created by handling all potentially result in both changes in resistance across the wind and incomplete oxidation. Both factors that affect the uniformity of thermal output of the wind. Tension provides a quick simple means to achieve oxidation even with absolute beginners. That's the goal. Function, stable resistance and output.
Letting mother nature multiply the force we apply to get proximity we stand the best chance at uniform oxidation. That's what I've concluded. And I've also discovered that many folks using various means of winding can and do, often inadvertently, build with strain alongside forming. As was and is the case with many using jigs. My purpose there is to make those users aware as to why they're seeing the results and can replicate them.
Now why do I make that claim? I can form any wire into any thing. I'm concerned about the guy whose about to get hung for smokin' in the house. Or the gal whose job depends on her being able to quit smoking. The person who needs a solution today as their health demands it. And 2 weeks or 2 months in a factory coil's just not doing it for them. Bro been there and saw it comin'. But they're not going to necessarily be concerned with all this science. They just want it work out of the chute.
It's for them that a simple technique to get them to that result…the result you and I can get with our eyes closed…in a few minutes, and repeat it consistently, makes all the difference in the world. And once they get that great vape they can count on they can use that as the reliable measure for anything else they want to enjoy in the vaping universe. They know what precise is and what getting close to theoretical wire resistance can bring. They just did it, and can figure it out with time reading up on how.
But you're right there's lots of ways to make a coil. Apart from the science, and it's substantial, it's true that it's still a choice. A choice that gets the average user to the functional result faster. And I didn't come to that conclusion in a hurry but by a significant number of clearo builds alongside real world users to see...what worked for them. Had compression and torching proved the straightest kick between the goal posts in terms of time, consistency and understanding I'd be buying stock in Burnz-O-Matic. So I'm pleased to be here making the case for strain by demonstration. I'm confident new vapers are perfectly capable of deciding for themselves if it works or not because I witness it routinely. I also know not everyone will or can. True that.
I'm not insisting on one way, one coil or one build. I'm insisting that there is another means. Another way to apply force whatever or however we wind. You and I, well we wind what we want, and get it. I say let's get 'em the vape that works right now. But turbo if they never get the chance to test this principle for themselves, to see if it really accelerates a result for them because they're convinced that there's other ways to wind; well, they'll likely just eat with their fork and never get there's a knife. It's that simple.
Thanks for giving me the opportunity to explain.
Good luck turbo. May all your winds be that beautiful (and maybe tensioned, somewhat, just a little?).
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First and foremost Brilliant discussions, teaching aids and explanations by all. Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!
I just started using the coil gizmo and thanks to Russ's videos, I also went ahead and got a Reo Grand LP Silver Hammetone with an RM2 three weeks ago. Now looking to get the Odin, but of course they are still not out so just today went with the RM4. Thanks Russ Supa X for doing all those vids, saved me a whole lot of time and money and got me on the right path on my vaping journey.
View attachment 411685
Questions by a coil wrapping newb, that would be me, as far as the dynamics of coil functionality as it pertains to even heating/longevity/etccc....
What I mean is:
I have seen coils wrapped all different ways, jigs, gizmos, tools, bits, toothpicks, cotton stubs etccc......
I have seen people heating and not heating the wire before wrapping
Now I am using the coil gizmo, hand holding the A1 kanthal G29 spool (Thanks Russ) , obviously not an even tension, but some tension, non-heat treated micro contact wraps.
What would be the difference should I now go out and buy Super Swamper's fishing rod, flywheel, heating hose bypass cap and heat the wire before wrapping?
I am missing the above four ingredients in my vaping journey and was wondering how or what vape change will be had by adding consistent tension and using pre-heat treated wire?
This Thread Rocks by the way! Glad I came upon it
Congrats on your REO bro. And thank you. I got pretty darn good coils with just the gizmo and gauging tension but I get the most kick ayuss and consistent tension using that rod and reel. It also makes it "hands free" while you fix the wire in the nuts when you have the contraption wedged between yourself and the gizmo.
I get the EXACT amount of tension every coil, every moment I wind the coil and every step of the way when setting up the legs.
On a single coil it's awesome. On duals it straight kills to have two IDENTICALLY tensioned coils in the atty. KILLS.
I am back to a light annealing before winding because I find (just watch the wire when you anneal) that I want that dosey-doe the wire does done before it gets wound and installed
Directed at SxD, what resistance do you tend to get on your winds? FWIW I have been sucked in by you and went out and got hopefully a decent setup; coil gizmo from hobbylobby, rod and reel from local sports shop, and the hack materials for the gizmo.
I will be messing around with the gizmo and my Kanthal to figure out the optimum wind for my Kanger Subtank heads, but I do tend to run higher resistance coils on my Erlkonigin mini 1.2-1.5. I had some leaking issues that needed to be dealt with and I think I have that sorted out now.
Tomorrow I will be cutting the ice rod (about to experience a serious deep freeze where I'm at) that my reel came attached to, and hope the reel is sturdy enough to handle the tension of the wire. Not sure if I should run my 30g or 25g first (may have to get another reel).
Thanks to you and MacTech and everyone else, I've been reading these threads for over a year and have tried implementing your ideas during that time. Anyway looking forward to joining the consistent tmc club. Where do I pay the membership dues?
PS; I love your vids SxD
PSS; I still vote to see MacTech on camera showing us how the magic is performed.
I will be messing around with the gizmo and my Kanthal to figure out the optimum wind for my Kanger Subtank heads, but I do tend to run higher resistance coils on my Erlkonigin mini 1.2-1.5. I had some leaking issues that needed to be dealt with and I think I have that sorted out now.
Tomorrow I will be cutting the ice rod (about to experience a serious deep freeze where I'm at) that my reel came attached to, and hope the reel is sturdy enough to handle the tension of the wire. Not sure if I should run my 30g or 25g first (may have to get another reel).
Thanks to you and MacTech and everyone else, I've been reading these threads for over a year and have tried implementing your ideas during that time. Anyway looking forward to joining the consistent tmc club. Where do I pay the membership dues?
PS; I love your vids SxD
PSS; I still vote to see MacTech on camera showing us how the magic is performed.
Thank you
membership dues are nonexistent in this here fraternity (cost of entry is just some cool tools and there are CEU's required but you can get them easy by watching a vid like that one by ol Rufus there with CC turned on) but rewards points are paid back to you in the sense of satisfaction you get when you vape from a setup you know is gonna keep vaping like that for a good while with just a wick change as required. And double reward points are paid when you think "I feel like reproducing this exact setup today" and you actually do. Exact setup. Zero deviations. Unless you want to deviate. Not because you couldn't match it. I run 29 ga and the coils, when mounted in dual parallel in the attys I run (accounting for legs - n- all) net anywhere from .57 to . 67. So each coil would be roughly an ohm to 1.2 ohms if mounted all by itself in the same atty.
There is a pretty good deal of force needed on 29 before it breaks so a 20 dollar (inexpensive) reel may be needed.
Having the drag set to 2 clicks below wire break will also help you sniff out any possible bad spots on a spool cause it'll break prematurely (I had a bad spot on that same spool of 29 ga earlier in its life) when you're mid wind.
Rock on my man
Thank you
I run 29 ga and the coils, when mounted in dual parallel in the attys I run (accounting for legs - n- all) net anywhere from .57 to . 67. So each coil would be roughly an ohm to 1.2 ohms if mounted all by itself in the same atty.
There is a pretty good deal of force needed on 29 before it breaks so a 20 dollar (inexpensive) reel may be needed.
Having the drag set to 2 clicks below wire break will also help you sniff out any possible bad spots on a spool cause it'll break prematurely (I had a bad spot on that same spool of 29 ga earlier in its life) when you're mid wind.
Rock on my man
Good point sup. About the cheapest item we use is wire. And I always say if it's suspect toss it. But right you are we don't need to take it to the breaking point. Get it to "sticky" (where it's pullin' in on itself) is all you need. We all have to work on finding that spot. Developing the muscle memory as part of the technique. It varies with wire, kit and tensioning approach but it's right in the middle of hot on both sides. Small moves and a little practice gets ya there.
Good luck all.
For reference purposes from the thread post...Dewinding tensioned coils, the basics...
If nothing else you need to eliminate the section of the wire anchored at the collet and usually a half turn or more. Try this…
° With the coil still on the bit, flip the bit with the last wound turn against the collet face;
° Using your fingers (thumb and index) tweeze the starting turn wire with light tension (like gift ribbon);
° Notice that the grip of the turn on the bit is relaxed depending on how much tension you used;
° With practice you can apply tension to remove quarter, half or full turns; until,
° You arrive at your desired wind count. Voila!
An alternative which helps with thicker gauges is to use a light needle nose. Worshop tools won't afford you the control you need even with thick wire. Some users believe the heavier tools will let them apply tension. That's not the case. Adding more tension at the end turn or turns than originally input may destabilize the entire coil and you'll get uneven heat distribution or even a hot coil and/or leads. If that happens during dewinding best not to fiddle with it. It takes seconds to wind another and you deserve a better vape.
However, again with a bit of practice you can lightly tension off end turns as above with a forceps or light needle nose. This is helpful in balancing the end turn tension which may be required with thicker wire.
Always support the spine or back of the coil, opposite the leads, as you make any adjustment. This will help preserve adhesion of turns, their relationship to each other, which if altered breaks the wind. It will retain the altered shape.
Small moves vj. You gals have a huge advantage over us guys with the precision fine finger motion control you have. Outshoot us at the range every day of the week, for one. Add a smidgeon of patience and you'll have one fine looking and functional coil.
Good luck and just nudge as you did if you need a hand.
If nothing else you need to eliminate the section of the wire anchored at the collet and usually a half turn or more. Try this…
° With the coil still on the bit, flip the bit with the last wound turn against the collet face;
° Using your fingers (thumb and index) tweeze the starting turn wire with light tension (like gift ribbon);
° Notice that the grip of the turn on the bit is relaxed depending on how much tension you used;
° With practice you can apply tension to remove quarter, half or full turns; until,
° You arrive at your desired wind count. Voila!
An alternative which helps with thicker gauges is to use a light needle nose. Worshop tools won't afford you the control you need even with thick wire. Some users believe the heavier tools will let them apply tension. That's not the case. Adding more tension at the end turn or turns than originally input may destabilize the entire coil and you'll get uneven heat distribution or even a hot coil and/or leads. If that happens during dewinding best not to fiddle with it. It takes seconds to wind another and you deserve a better vape.
However, again with a bit of practice you can lightly tension off end turns as above with a forceps or light needle nose. This is helpful in balancing the end turn tension which may be required with thicker wire.
Always support the spine or back of the coil, opposite the leads, as you make any adjustment. This will help preserve adhesion of turns, their relationship to each other, which if altered breaks the wind. It will retain the altered shape.
Small moves vj. You gals have a huge advantage over us guys with the precision fine finger motion control you have. Outshoot us at the range every day of the week, for one. Add a smidgeon of patience and you'll have one fine looking and functional coil.
Good luck and just nudge as you did if you need a hand.
I can't recall having seen chimney coil setups in this thread. Is there any reason why you would not want a ctmc ?
I assume it's also atty dependent, but let's say we're building on eg a Marquis.
I assume it's also atty dependent, but let's say we're building on eg a Marquis.
Bought a small enough hose clamp so I'll be testing the k koiler idea today. If its a fail I've already got a pin vice in my amazon cart waiting to go which brings me to my question. In the above pic a few posts ago, what are you using for a rod with the pin vice Mac? It looks possibly like a rc car axle rod? If it is what dimmensions and if so did you get from amazon or a local to you shop? Also thinking maybe cutting some length off an Artistic Wire Coiling Gizmo rod. Super X what did you use to cut it?
Hey Jim
I used a pair of pliers with a cutter portion- that's why I lightly buff the ends of the rods with some fine grit - to remove the imperfections caused by cutting it
I have been looking at the artistic coilers; generic, basic, deluxe & professional and have only found one with a 3mm rod. I primarily use 2.5mm & 3.0mm I.D. coils for my builds and was wondering if anyone has tried other rods that haven't come with the coiler. I have looked at piano wire, rc car stainless steel axles and plane wing struts as possible alternatives. Is there enough "give" in the diameter of the holes on the coilers to accommodate rods of sizes that didn't come with the coiler?
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