I've used this on many many coils after buying one last week. My favorite so far is 4x twisted 28 kanthal. Usually a quad twisted it a bit more difficult to wrap a nice and tight cool with, but this thing make it literally a breeze. Not that it can't be done without it, because it certainly can, but the jig makes it ridiculously easy to pump out perfect coils every single time. I'm converted and I'll never go back.
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
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That's a great coil Mox. Curious though as I'm sure you wound it on a mandrel that it seems to have a taper in the pic.
You're absolutely right, regardless of the wick the amount of deflection or compression of the wick is critical. Some like Eko are very intolerant of too much pressure and choke. Nextel is awesome and allows a wide variation. KGD and rayon are sensitive to having a precise deflection or they don't perform. I personally haven't found either to flow well under power with light wicking. But both will definitely scorch and gunk freely if over-pressured. Cotton and similar are all difficult and why I recommend synthetics to newcomers. Frankly, even silica if you can wick it. Yep, I get those that are happy with silica and I'll go there if they'll try a proper electrical wind. Next step Eko and other stuff including rayon because I think it's important for us to try all these things. They all work to a greater or lesser degree with different juices and for different reasons.
Ok Mac - I finally logged on to the laptop to reply. Tapa-crap wasn't cutting it.
It does look like it has a taper in the pic, but it was really just tilted down on one side. I think I tapped it when I took the deck apart. Whoops....
As far as deflection goes - I like the flavor off the CCr wicking, but can't seem to consistently get the density correct. I switched back to Muji cotton pads and dropped a wrap on my coil to 5/64" 7 wrap 29gauge for ~1.3 ohms spun on the custom arm of the artist's coil jig. This is MUCH closer to what I like. I hardly ever get the brown snail trails anymore, and if I do, they're very light. The vape is cool, but not cold.
With 8 wraps it seemed to get cold once it gunked (about 2mls through the 4ml tank).
It gunks though, and fast. With 7 wraps, I can vape to the end of the tank without hating the flavor, but with Nicoticket juices, it needs to be re-wicked and dry-burned after every tank. I chain-vape like crazy though, mainly because I drive about 100miles/day. BIG smoking trigger for me. This really does not help with the gunking. I don't ever get fully dry hits, but occasionally I'll get an almost dry one from tooting too often.
I have noticed that small spaces between the wraps do stave off the gunking for quite a while longer, but the vape is no where near as good. It needs to be a fairly low resistance to make up for the spacing. I've found that in the KFL+, the vape changes drastically with small changes in resistance.
I didn't like ekowool, and have an S-load of Tencel, Rayon top, CCr, and Muji cotton pads for these builds. I need to uise up what I've got if only just to get rid of stuff before HRH complains.... louder.
Love this thread BTW. Thanks Super_X and MacTech. You guys are my kinda geeks.
And Happy Holidays to All of You!!!!
Ok Mac - I finally logged on to the laptop to reply. Tapa-crap wasn't cutting it.
It does look like it has a taper in the pic, but it was really just tilted down on one side. I think I tapped it when I took the deck apart. Whoops....
As far as deflection goes - I like the flavor off the CCr wicking, but can't seem to consistently get the density correct. I switched back to Muji cotton pads and dropped a wrap on my coil to 5/64" 7 wrap 29gauge for ~1.3 ohms spun on the custom arm of the artist's coil jig. This is MUCH closer to what I like. I hardly ever get the brown snail trails anymore, and if I do, they're very light. The vape is cool, but not cold.
With 8 wraps it seemed to get cold once it gunked (about 2mls through the 4ml tank).
It gunks though, and fast. With 7 wraps, I can vape to the end of the tank without hating the flavor, but with Nicoticket juices, it needs to be re-wicked and dry-burned after every tank. I chain-vape like crazy though, mainly because I drive about 100miles/day. BIG smoking trigger for me. This really does not help with the gunking. I don't ever get fully dry hits, but occasionally I'll get an almost dry one from tooting too often.
I have noticed that small spaces between the wraps do stave off the gunking for quite a while longer, but the vape is no where near as good. It needs to be a fairly low resistance to make up for the spacing. I've found that in the KFL+, the vape changes drastically with small changes in resistance.
I didn't like ekowool, and have an S-load of Tencel, Rayon top, CCr, and Muji cotton pads for these builds. I need to uise up what I've got if only just to get rid of stuff before HRH complains.... louder.
Love this thread BTW. Thanks Super_X and MacTech. You guys are my kinda geeks.
And Happy Holidays to All of You!!!!
First your right on point. This thread's going to be about using tension to better our vape. I'm not a detractor of open winds. I never thought Russ's madcap idea would work. I favored screw winds. There is a time and place for everything. The idea is to get there effectively, consistently and repeatably using the most efficient means possible.
I'm with you on the spacing. Work out the math. Go to one of the coil resistance websites. If we do the homework we can see that spacing reduces the amount of surface area and consequently effective power to the wick. No biggie. My take is not about style or wind, it's about the science. As you say build the energy output you need. But crickey let's build a proper electrical coil. For me that means a consistent known winding diameter and you need an instrument for that.
Some great exchanges on this subject of gunk, efficient winds, jigs, pin vises and the great vape on the REO RxW thread today. We need more of that from those of us that are getting that great vape. They can have it all if they want regardless what you like in power, wind or wick.
As for gunk, it's the field of battle that we're on. And it's muddy with densely pigmented juices. So it becomes finding the balance between power output (more gunk) and the density of vapor/flavor we can deal with in our vape. I believe the most efficient wind possible is the best of all worlds as it's going to run more uniformly in temperature. And it's going to be repeatable. This is very, very hard to do with unmetered eccentric open spaced winds. One thing is clouds and you want the thrill of that, I do, you've got to sacrifice some energy to diffusion. Even so you can build to the res target for that density with a crack precisioned tension wind and get it all. Either with a tensioned symmetrical wind on screw or jig or a pin vise.
That's my story and I'm stickin to it moxie. I just wanna show folks how it can be done. And you guys are doin' a fine job!
Happy Holidays.
super_x please when you do the winding the way the guys are saying, post a new vid. I didn't get what you were doing wrong and probably wouldn't without one of your awesome videos
My man, I wind with a coil gizmo. That's the only way I fly. I had a special coil winder made (two identical ones actually) and I don't like it. There is nothing I've tried that's in the same league as a hacked gizmo. I will be doing a new vid detailing an addition I made to it that keeps consistent tension in the wire though
Thank you brother flavored
Planning to shoot that vid, an updated KGD vid and the REOmizer 4, 5 and 6 walkthrus and build tutorials late tonight . Gonna be a long night and I highly doubt they'll all post tonight but I will prioritize the KGD and the gizmo
I was thinking of adding a spring and a washer to the gizmo to help keep the coil tight on my "custom" 5/64" arm....
Whoot whoooot. I'm waiting for the upload!Thank you brother flavored
My love- Kawa Reo LP w/ TRA SL door & LokiLab Odin.. Mmm Mmm
Do it and post a picture. I'd like to see what you mean bro.
My love- Kawa Reo LP w/ TRA SL door & LokiLab Odin.. Mmm Mmm
That's exactly what I did with my homemade 5/64" mandrel. Works brilliantly!
[emoji1]
And as for wicking, here is the fresh way to prepare them KGD pads and a foolproof way to know when you are using the correct amount of wick:
http://youtu.be/lfOEoLumeR0
http://youtu.be/lfOEoLumeR0
Superx I meant how this guy described it. But i see you have done it in your last video. The fishing reel is a great idea too. Nice one man.
Anyone work with Nickel yet? I'm gonig to give it a shot tonight, and also watch these vids. Can't right now, working.
Yeah, Mac pointed me in this direction some time ago to use a source to produce consistent tension, heck I think he even suggested a reel. But you know how us young punks are - we gotta go around our Ayusses to get to our heads
I really like it and it'll hold a mile of Kanthal. Since I only use one gauge, I only need one reel. The slightly more involved initial setup is worth it in spades when you bang out 6 I-freakin-dentical coils in about 10 minutes.
I don't like what I've read about nickel content
Titanium then?
Also... if you take a look at the $0.50 device I made/posted earlier... it had a tensioner in the form of multiple screws the kanthal had to pass through... served to remove the initial bend some and give it all the same uniform bend... also had the kanthal on a bobbin. I think it's a good idea no matter how you go about it.
Great vids, Sup. I think they'll prove to be very useful to a lot of people.
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