Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
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Yeah, I couldn't find it anywhere either...thanks for the reply!
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Good luck.
Dear Valued Customers,
In reaction to the coronavirus outbreak in China, national and local governments here have made certain decisions related to the shutdown of industrial production in the country. As of this writing, the decision to delay the resumption of work for individual companies may extend to February 20th, which could result in shipping delays of products.
Orders paid after 13:00, Jan 17 (Beijing Time) through Feb 20 will have to be shipped out after Feb 20. Then your packages will be shipped by fast international shipping service like DHL. We apologize for the inconvenience this may cause, and we do appreciate those that stay supportive for Wotofo under this situation. Thank you very much for your understanding!
Mail from China won't spread coronavirus, assured by international virus specialists. So, no panic on this. We will continue to monitor this situation and provide updates timely.
Best regards,
Wotofo Team
Good luck.
From the thread Tight Wicking for info on cotton comparisons see link just below…
Curious about your experiment and favor the idea of inner cotton feeding a protective and productive outer layer of rayon. However, my experience hasn't been great for rayon with flavor though. Also, the often discarded outer linear cotton pad surfaces of KGD are highly conducive of flow. Whereas the inner fluffy interior of the material saturates extremely well. I use primarily woven ceramic, Nextel 3mm but always have KGD in one thing or another, stripping one side of the padding off usually.
For me, I lightly roll sections with KGD's exterior padding in the center to feed the outer wetter fluffy exterior, stretch it to make the fluffy outside irregular surface as tightly linear as possible. Insert as much as the coil can handle and still permit some slight movement of the wick at its center. To do this and get as much volume of tails as possible, slight twisting and stretching of the wick (rolling) is needed to compress the wick going in. But un-rolling the center then leaves a tight surface of linear fiber within the coil. Tend not to thin tails but leave as much as possible for the deck area available and fluff them to improve permeability and retention. That's it. Works with rayon too.
I'd say, try that experiment using KGD padding and rayon outer fill.
Real care, as I'm sure you know, to not over-wick is needed regardless of material. Too much power for the available flow and you cook or char the juice. Less vapor, less flavor. More wick than needed chokes flow and prematurely clogs media with solids from under-vaporized liquid, i.e. stains and gunks.
A note here — length of tails determines the possible speed or flow. Short tails maximize flow and dry out or effuse quickly. Longer tails limit or constrain flow but increase availability and retention (less leaking, need to drip). The more coil power applied, the longer (or greater) the media needed…up to the limit of the coil Ø.
To sum up, I'd say just enough tight wicking is awesome for a productive balance of both flavor and volume.
Good luck.
Curious about your experiment and favor the idea of inner cotton feeding a protective and productive outer layer of rayon. However, my experience hasn't been great for rayon with flavor though. Also, the often discarded outer linear cotton pad surfaces of KGD are highly conducive of flow. Whereas the inner fluffy interior of the material saturates extremely well. I use primarily woven ceramic, Nextel 3mm but always have KGD in one thing or another, stripping one side of the padding off usually.
For me, I lightly roll sections with KGD's exterior padding in the center to feed the outer wetter fluffy exterior, stretch it to make the fluffy outside irregular surface as tightly linear as possible. Insert as much as the coil can handle and still permit some slight movement of the wick at its center. To do this and get as much volume of tails as possible, slight twisting and stretching of the wick (rolling) is needed to compress the wick going in. But un-rolling the center then leaves a tight surface of linear fiber within the coil. Tend not to thin tails but leave as much as possible for the deck area available and fluff them to improve permeability and retention. That's it. Works with rayon too.
I'd say, try that experiment using KGD padding and rayon outer fill.
Real care, as I'm sure you know, to not over-wick is needed regardless of material. Too much power for the available flow and you cook or char the juice. Less vapor, less flavor. More wick than needed chokes flow and prematurely clogs media with solids from under-vaporized liquid, i.e. stains and gunks.
A note here — length of tails determines the possible speed or flow. Short tails maximize flow and dry out or effuse quickly. Longer tails limit or constrain flow but increase availability and retention (less leaking, need to drip). The more coil power applied, the longer (or greater) the media needed…up to the limit of the coil Ø.
To sum up, I'd say just enough tight wicking is awesome for a productive balance of both flavor and volume.
Good luck.
@gsmit, you should try and build a strained (tensioned) coil sometime, if you haven't. I'm particularly enjoying larger >2.5mmØ singles of late in single coil RDA/RTA. As I keep quite a few setups in operation it leaves more time to keep the dual-coil arrangements fresh.
Good luck.
p.s. If you can, pm me'n LMK what just happened in that other place, for cryin out loud.
Good luck.
p.s. If you can, pm me'n LMK what just happened in that other place, for cryin out loud.
Lifted from the thread Geek Vape Aegis Boost RBA coils | Post #8 for reference…
Thx M. I've never seen the wisdom of vaping mystery metal winds from even primary makers. Especially when it's so darn easy to strain a virtually perfect coil in seconds. Also, the advantage of then learning to pulse oxide such a Kanthal wind making it super durable far outweigh the imagined savings of using pre-made.
Happy to assist, as always.
Good luck.
Thx M. I've never seen the wisdom of vaping mystery metal winds from even primary makers. Especially when it's so darn easy to strain a virtually perfect coil in seconds. Also, the advantage of then learning to pulse oxide such a Kanthal wind making it super durable far outweigh the imagined savings of using pre-made.
Happy to assist, as always.
Good luck.
@MacTechVpr, I agree that you usually don't have any idea of the metal specifications used in premade coils.
Nevermind the manufacturing processes used.
I mean it's a minefield even just getting plain round wire to begin with, due to the variation in the specifications anyway.
Nevermind the manufacturing processes used.
I mean it's a minefield even just getting plain round wire to begin with, due to the variation in the specifications anyway.
Lifted from the thread 454 big block, Post #7 for your further enjoyment…
Yes but drilled out (a bit of a challenge) it's a great performer for flavor and vapor. It's one of my long time go-to's. Unfortunately, as they would be outstanding BF'er's, no BF pins for these. At the price, can't beat 'em and the fave of quite a few I've turned on to rebuilding. Good all the way down to 23AWGx7 with careful separation from the seating ring.
It takes a vertical which again is a bit of a challenge to wick with RxW but very well worth it. Being a tight installation for wicking it does tend to get a bit soiled in the deck with tobacco flavors. It's possible to lift RxW out and torch the ends to clean however. Typical water wash and dry-fire with a strained wind is short and sweet to return a flavor virtually indistinguishable from a clean install. You know I'm an advocate of ceramic weave.
Like I said for the price and guaranteed rate of return, a reliable investment.
Good luck.
Yes but drilled out (a bit of a challenge) it's a great performer for flavor and vapor. It's one of my long time go-to's. Unfortunately, as they would be outstanding BF'er's, no BF pins for these. At the price, can't beat 'em and the fave of quite a few I've turned on to rebuilding. Good all the way down to 23AWGx7 with careful separation from the seating ring.
It takes a vertical which again is a bit of a challenge to wick with RxW but very well worth it. Being a tight installation for wicking it does tend to get a bit soiled in the deck with tobacco flavors. It's possible to lift RxW out and torch the ends to clean however. Typical water wash and dry-fire with a strained wind is short and sweet to return a flavor virtually indistinguishable from a clean install. You know I'm an advocate of ceramic weave.
Like I said for the price and guaranteed rate of return, a reliable investment.
Good luck.
Borrowed from the thread Rebuildable worth the effort? | Post #6…
Don't think so much in terms of rebuilding being about convenience. Once you know how to rebuild you make your own ease of use. Rather consider why it is that you want to vape at all? In the end it's about taking control of what you put in your body, at long last. The enjoyment is the certain wonderful side benefit over the alternatives.
Good luck.
Don't think so much in terms of rebuilding being about convenience. Once you know how to rebuild you make your own ease of use. Rather consider why it is that you want to vape at all? In the end it's about taking control of what you put in your body, at long last. The enjoyment is the certain wonderful side benefit over the alternatives.
Good luck.
Borrowed from the thread Mesh strip giving random dry hits | #17…
A very very good postulate you allude to, i.e. uneven heat distribution as the cause of over or under-vaporization.
Just sayin.
Good luck.
A very very good postulate you allude to, i.e. uneven heat distribution as the cause of over or under-vaporization.
Just sayin.
Good luck.
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