Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
- Thread starter super_X_drifter
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Give the gift of life to those you care about — teach them to rebuild.
Put one of these…
Tensioned micro: 25/7/7 2.75mmØ=0.7995Ω
17.12-22.06W @ 3.7-4.2V (4.63-5.25A) 134-173 mW/mm²
in one of these…
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!
Good luck and Merry Christmas all.
[/QUOTE]
Put one of these…
17.12-22.06W @ 3.7-4.2V (4.63-5.25A) 134-173 mW/mm²
in one of these…
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!
Good luck and Merry Christmas all.
[/QUOTE]
Howdy, Cucco. RTD Vapor is gone, I'm afraid.
Mooch recommended vendors:
18650batterystore.com
illumn.com
imrbatteries.com
lionwholesale.com
orbtronic.com
Wow.. That rots.. I have been using them for years.. I wonder if I missed warning emails? So much has changed. Depressing. Thank you for the response!
Again, hugs to all!
Hang in there crew. You'll all be essential workers if you now how to strain wind.
Swivel Head Pin Vise with Wood Handle – Contenti
Good luck all.
Swivel Head Pin Vise with Wood Handle – Contenti
Good luck all.
Hang in there crew. You'll all be essential workers if you now how to strain wind.
View attachment 935909
Swivel Head Pin Vise with Wood Handle – Contenti
Good luck all.
I saw they use that tool to twist a wire but can't understand how it helps for tensioned coil.....we need a video on how to do it cause I tried once and made a coil with very much tension but I did it by hand with pliers....
I tighten the post screws carefully so it won't ruin the tension of the wraps and I was soo exicted I thought I would see the coil glow like the one in your pics..
But noooooooooo....it was glowing from center and actually not like a normal coil like it seemed to heat with more wraps at the same time but nooooooo way near as yours that heats all wraps at once...
FAAAAAAILED miserably
I am gonna try again ofc when I have time but I guess I will fail again cause I can't seem to understand what i did wrong....the wraps were veeeeeeery tight and nice and looked so good that for a moment I believed it would happen lol
I have been out of the loop here for a very long time. But, I have been wrapping tensioned coils for a very long time. Originally, by hand. Then, using a GREAT jig. After you wrapped your coil, did you rake it? I use a set of tweezers. I mount the coil. I put the tweezers in and around the coil and rotate a couple of times. Kind of lightly scrubbing the inner and outer of the coil? Fire it up. If the coil is not burning even, I do it a tad more, until it does burn even. Hope that helps!
I have been out of the loop here for a very long time. But, I have been wrapping tensioned coils for a very long time. Originally, by hand. Then, using a GREAT jig. After you wrapped your coil, did you rake it? I use a set of tweezers. I mount the coil. I put the tweezers in and around the coil and rotate a couple of times. Kind of lightly scrubbing the inner and outer of the coil? Fire it up. If the coil is not burning even, I do it a tad more, until it does burn even. Hope that helps!
Now that u say that I think i didn't even see hotspots sooo didn't even scratch it (it's being a week so I can't remember 100%) like we do when we want to get rid of hotspots just a little bit on the outer.....
For some reason I thought it would glow evenly at once since there is no hotspots...
I will definitely do as u say...
BTW do u need to pulse fire it many times until it glows evenly? I did it like 4 times and then I was disappointed..
Thanks for info tho I will try that for sure
@Superuser187, I don't know whether you're compressing the wraps together well?
As I do know that can be a bit of a pain.
As I do know that can be a bit of a pain.
I rake and fire until she fires even. If the coil was wrapped carefully with 'even' tension, it usually just takes a couple of rakes. Good luck!
Simply put, with lower gauge wire (≤23 for me), hold the spool in your left hand. insert wire and bit in tool and draw back the wire onto spool until the tool rests on the edge of the spool. As you wind with your right, pull slightly apart with both hands to lightly stretch the wire. Holding the tool on the edge throughout rotation provides some control and leverage. If you're left-handed, just the opposite.
It helps also to support the end of the bit with your index finger or knuckle. This helps also to maintain a more constant negative angle of attack for the wire. The wind itself is slightly diagonal on the wire you will notice. You want to actually angle the bit a degree or two so that the wire angles back towards the bit face adding a little bit to the compression. This helps to ensure good contact as you wind. This also helps to support the strain you must maintain on the wire as you release and relocate the pin vise in your right hand to continue winding. Tension should be maintained as evenly as possible or you may see gaps where strain is unevenly applied.
If you practice with a moderate gauge, spin a few with little or no tension the first few turns, then slightly increase the strain. You will see from the result if enough tension was uniformly achieved to fix the form. Turns will simply not unwind.
There is a point that we overcome the existing level of strain or form forcing enough energy into the wire to reshape it. That difference is the evidence of adequate strain or elongation. And it will be retained as long as a greater force is not again imparted to the wind, e.g. excessive heating.
I've found that most of the time it's not a failure to apply enough tension that's a problem but finding the comfortable body mechanics, i.e. the hand/bit hold, that varies from person to person. It shouldn't be heavy or forced as this may affect consistency. Remember to relax, focus and breathe.
Once singles become reliable, as you can duplicate oxidizing them, then (twisted-lead) parallels (as above) are possible. These winds on single-coil decks, large or small, are truly remarkably stable, long-lasting and incredibly flavorful due to the increased surface contact relative to the mass or net gauge resistance. They fire quickly and are thirsty but vape cool for the power applied. Trust me when I tell you that the effort is well worth it if for nothing else than the amazing longevity of dependable performance for these winds.
A TMC is a powerful tool for surviving this nonsense. So I really hope many of you will continue to teach others to rebuild, strain or not. And remember its ultimately about the control and choice as to what we put in our bodies. So repeatable results matter.
Good luck all.
It helps also to support the end of the bit with your index finger or knuckle. This helps also to maintain a more constant negative angle of attack for the wire. The wind itself is slightly diagonal on the wire you will notice. You want to actually angle the bit a degree or two so that the wire angles back towards the bit face adding a little bit to the compression. This helps to ensure good contact as you wind. This also helps to support the strain you must maintain on the wire as you release and relocate the pin vise in your right hand to continue winding. Tension should be maintained as evenly as possible or you may see gaps where strain is unevenly applied.
If you practice with a moderate gauge, spin a few with little or no tension the first few turns, then slightly increase the strain. You will see from the result if enough tension was uniformly achieved to fix the form. Turns will simply not unwind.
There is a point that we overcome the existing level of strain or form forcing enough energy into the wire to reshape it. That difference is the evidence of adequate strain or elongation. And it will be retained as long as a greater force is not again imparted to the wind, e.g. excessive heating.
I've found that most of the time it's not a failure to apply enough tension that's a problem but finding the comfortable body mechanics, i.e. the hand/bit hold, that varies from person to person. It shouldn't be heavy or forced as this may affect consistency. Remember to relax, focus and breathe.
Once singles become reliable, as you can duplicate oxidizing them, then (twisted-lead) parallels (as above) are possible. These winds on single-coil decks, large or small, are truly remarkably stable, long-lasting and incredibly flavorful due to the increased surface contact relative to the mass or net gauge resistance. They fire quickly and are thirsty but vape cool for the power applied. Trust me when I tell you that the effort is well worth it if for nothing else than the amazing longevity of dependable performance for these winds.
A TMC is a powerful tool for surviving this nonsense. So I really hope many of you will continue to teach others to rebuild, strain or not. And remember its ultimately about the control and choice as to what we put in our bodies. So repeatable results matter.
Good luck all.
Last edited:
I rake and fire until she fires even. If the coil was wrapped carefully with 'even' tension, it usually just takes a couple of rakes. Good luck!
That's a good point, but don't blame your wind necessarily. Wire is pretty consistent but there may be minute variations of wire thickness even in short sections. If you've wound consistently, it's typical for there to be no hot spots. So raking shouldn't be required at all. Buttt…aha, those nasty imperfections. I usually can those that need anything more than a slight compression while oxidizing. The latter is what really cures them in any case. No sense in having to suffer less than the perfect vape you can wind because of a few pennies of wire.
Enjoy the vape and…
Good luck.
p.s. My biggest mistake most often is making sure wire is clean. Remarkable all the junk that can get on a wire spool you just put there yesterday.
Last edited:
From what I read now it seems that I wasn't consistent cause I was putting tooooooo much tension and it's hard to control muscles and be consistent when u wind by hand so hard...
I used a 24ga kanthal wire and it felt like it would snap cause I did it with as much tension I could...
At least it seems I was doing few things right as to how to wind it lol.
I think I got the info I need now to be successful and I will try as many times until I get it right...I guess it wasn't that easy to get it first try for me...
I will try thicker wires also..
I am excited cause I feel like when I get this right it's gonna be the only wire I use...with the way it's heating it must perform great and no need to use anything else...plus it's future proof cause u will always be able to find round wire..
I am excited....I can feel the tension in the air right now...
I used a 24ga kanthal wire and it felt like it would snap cause I did it with as much tension I could...
At least it seems I was doing few things right as to how to wind it lol.
I think I got the info I need now to be successful and I will try as many times until I get it right...I guess it wasn't that easy to get it first try for me...
I will try thicker wires also..
I am excited cause I feel like when I get this right it's gonna be the only wire I use...with the way it's heating it must perform great and no need to use anything else...plus it's future proof cause u will always be able to find round wire..
I am excited....I can feel the tension in the air right now...
These pros here on this thread, got me wrapping tensioned micros years ago. Kind of seems like a lifetime ago now. I wrap 24ga Kanthal A1 to a precise .42 ohms every time. I am a tad senile these days, so I sometimes forget how many wraps I need. So, I have to count them. But, my eyes are failing, so that is easier said than done. But, I manage!
I really do need to remember to write down my number of wraps! I keep saying that! There is that tad of senility again! - Status
Similar threads
- Locked
