Zephyrus deck and chimney are tighter for space than billow v2. Requires a little more "surgical skill" to fit a decent build in zephyrus. Other than that, just subjective factors really.
The Billow v2!
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Zephyrus deck and chimney are tighter for space than billow v2. Requires a little more "surgical skill" to fit a decent build in zephyrus. Other than that, just subjective factors really.
OK, I just finished my second build on the BV2. I used 26 AWG K1, 7 wraps on 2.5 mm mandrel. Works out to .47 OHMS after the build. Again wicked with KGD using methods you all say work best. It was a real challenge getting those coils to fit the build deck and get the lower chimney section installed without interference.
Well, now I have to reconsider my comment that the Cthulhu has better flavor. The new build started to deliver some awesome flavor about a half tank in. I am really impressed with vapor production as well. I will still say the Cthulhu throws a slightly bigger cloud at lower wattages.
Also, so far, Not a single leak from the BV2, the main reason I benched the Cthulhu.
Well, now I have to reconsider my comment that the Cthulhu has better flavor. The new build started to deliver some awesome flavor about a half tank in. I am really impressed with vapor production as well. I will still say the Cthulhu throws a slightly bigger cloud at lower wattages.
Also, so far, Not a single leak from the BV2, the main reason I benched the Cthulhu.
I can wick my Billow v2 fine but I've been getting a really weird taste from all my juices with it, so much so it over powers the juices. I've tried both rayon, KGB and rebuilding to no avail. Each time my hands have been washed very well and I know the tank is clean so not sure what the issue is. Been using the Starre while I wait for the Goliath v2 to be released.
I need help from the Billow V2 fans. I have purchased 6 V2 and have tossed my Lemos and Lemo Drops in the junk drawer. The only con I have with the V2 is the deck post phillips head screws, fine them hard to tighten and real wire cutters. I would like to replace with better phillips head, grub screws or maybe cheesehead screw. Before I order I want to be clear on size. I contacted Eciggity for help and was advised they were M2x3.4mm. That said I don't think that is a real size I think M2 - 0.4 X 3mm is correct or M2 -0.4 X4mm. Does anyone know wether grub screws would work if so the correct size?
How low have you guys managed to build on your billow without getting dry hits or burning the insulator? Or should I ask: how high of a wattage have you pushed it where the wick still keeps up?
I'm beginning to wonder if I'm getting the occasional dry hits because I'm building down to 0.2 ohms and hitting it at 55 watts or on a mech. But if a 0.2 ohm Arctic coil head can keep up, then the billow v2 should certainly do the same right? I know I still haven't got the wicking mastered on this thing. I get wonderful flavor and vapor but I'm still getting the occasional dry hit every 3 hits or so. Using at least 60/40 juice as well.
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I'm beginning to wonder if I'm getting the occasional dry hits because I'm building down to 0.2 ohms and hitting it at 55 watts or on a mech. But if a 0.2 ohm Arctic coil head can keep up, then the billow v2 should certainly do the same right? I know I still haven't got the wicking mastered on this thing. I get wonderful flavor and vapor but I'm still getting the occasional dry hit every 3 hits or so. Using at least 60/40 juice as well.
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I had that happen to me about a week after I had mine. At 1st it was heaven. Then all of a sudden it tasted nasty. I ended up taking it apart. Even the screws on the deck and the o rings were removed. Soaked everything is white vinegar and rinsed the components with hot water. After that it was alright.
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That's so weird. I have two billow v2s and they both came spotless and oil-free. I gave them a quick soak and wash in dawn+hot water and been vaping them with no tainted flavor since.
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Around 40 Watts does it for me and that's higher than I would use for any extended period of time. At a certain point it's like trying to breath underwater rather than vaping lol.
Right now the highest I can go is 50 anyway.
With now my second build, I am able to go up to 50 watts w/o a dry hit. I normally vape it around 30 watts though, as I like a cooler vape.
Before I moved them both to Temp service (best 2 tanks, so ...), I as regularly building at .2. Fired on my mechs, I calculate that as 80+ watts. No troubles after I learned to wick my builds for my 20pg 80vg ADV. Hate supporting the Trip'n Ripster, but his video on pancake wicking was what lead me to simple, consistent wicks that really keep up with high vg juices.
my Billow V2 running nickel build at 0.12ohm (read from the MOD) 400 to 450F, set to 50W for preheat, no problem at all. no dry hit or burn taste.
So are you saying you achieved this by using the pancake method in the billow v2?
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To be honest, I'm not as deliberate or careful as the Tripster. But yes. Note that the wick does touch the chamber walls, and I am careful to ensure no wick trails impede the airflow holes in the base.
I'm gonna try that. I have no idea why the most mentioned method in this thread is suddenly not working for me. I have the wicks trimmed just enough so that the tiny ends are just barely going into the juice notch cut-outs and using 70/30 vg juice but I'm getting dry hits at 42 watts on a 0.28 ohm tiger coil.
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Is there room for air to make it past the wick ends and into the tank?
I think so. Should there be? I don't know what's going on with my most recent build/wick job but I keep getting dry hits and it leaks huge drops out of the afc when I tilt it. How do I get dry hits and leaking at the same time...
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Leaking and dry hits... Clearly whichcraft at work
Air needs to be able to get into the tank to keep the negative pressure (-P) at the right level. When the air can't get into the tank -P builds up and once the pressure gets low enough the tank will suck a big bubble of air, then since the pressure is no longer negative the wick will flood.
Leaking and dry hits... Clearly whichcraft at work
Air needs to be able to get into the tank to keep the negative pressure (-P) at the right level. When the air can't get into the tank -P builds up and once the pressure gets low enough the tank will suck a big bubble of air, then since the pressure is no longer negative the wick will flood.
A fine explanation sir. Thank you.
OK. So make sure not to stuff the notches and it should be fine right?Leaking and dry hits... Clearly whichcraft at work
Air needs to be able to get into the tank to keep the negative pressure (-P) at the right level. When the air can't get into the tank -P builds up and once the pressure gets low enough the tank will suck a big bubble of air, then since the pressure is no longer negative the wick will flood.
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