The Crown Variable Wattage/Voltage Module
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Well I just ordered the Crown. I can't wait to try it.
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Probably too thick for that. Probably have to run the 26500 then the magnet on the top and then the Crown on the magnet (the crown comes with an extra magnet spacer).
I just got my Crown today. So far I really like it. It fits in my Drawtube perfect. I like being able to change settings without opening mech mod. Vapes strong good connection to mod sidewall.
I recommend it.
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I recommend it.
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I thought it would take a while to learn the menu for the Crown. It only took couple of hours. Love it. Works very good.
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As soon as Snork gives me his feedback on the Crown...I will order one if he likes it.....Glod plated power pin....that sounds like a winner.
I haven't had any trouble with my Kicks,I like the Crown just as well.
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This is excellent news! I was looking into 14500 mods and saw the Crown link. It said that is was VV/VW but when I looked at the manual link it still mentioned VV or VW. I asked for the VW one when ordering. I had been looking for a Crown, but couldn't find them in stock any where until I found it at Super T. I had no idea there was a version 2.0, although I did note the insulating wrap was blue. It should be here tomorrow.
Very preliminary report - yes.
First I put it in a P+ 18500 with an older 18350 battery of unknown resting charge. It had been sitting in my box for quite awhile. I used the 3ohm HH357 901 and set the Crown to 8 or 9 watts (I kept switching back and forth getting the lay of the menu). I figured this would be a good test on that little battery. I hit it HARD HARD (new toy, you know) for about 45 minutes...around that time the Crown seemed to cut out with a clicky clicky clicky. Babied it for a bit longer then switched. I was quite pleased with the abuse it took for 45 minutes! The magnets on both the Crown and the fuse are amazingly robust. Solid.
Then I put it in a P+ 18650 with an 18500 battery. On both the P+18500 and P+18350 no o-ring adjustments were necessary, but the button throw could have used a little tweaking. I vaped the 18650 for just a little while with no issues, then switched to ShockWave because I was eager!
Now this, I'm going to have to play around with a bit. Since the SW uses the spacer, you have to reconfigure the arrangement of the fuse upside down under the Crown and insert the works into the aluminum spacer. I've been having a slight issue of misfires but I think I know what the deal is. I think the assembled length of the Crown and fuse are just a wee bit too short - if you crank the SW switch in you can feel it bottom out, and there might be just the tiniest bit of play up there where the plunger meets the Crown. If this is the case it might be easily overcome by either giving the SW's interior bottom firing pin a slight crank counterclockwise (upwards) or finding some thin spacer to give the Crown/fuse a tad more length. But tolerences may vary and it could be just my units. Right now it's vaping very well though...we'll see if it continues.
The menu system is great. Takes less time than a ProVari to master. I have it set right now on volts (I'm really a volts man rather than a watts
) 3.9 on a 2 ohm coil in my Spheroid.I'll write more later. I'm making myself nic sick.
This afternoon I'm still having some issues with the Crown in the ShockWave. A little frustrating compounded by the fact that a couple days ago I lost my phone and have spent the afternoon configuring a new one.
During my futzing around with the Crown the magnet which is attached to the fuse became unattached. Still works, though I can see an opportunity to lose the magnet. I also heard some mysterious new beeps which I assume were errors (I was trying things, little bits of aluminum foil, you don't wanna know).
I'll have a fresh outlook tomorrow, 'bout had it today with techno stuff.
During my futzing around with the Crown the magnet which is attached to the fuse became unattached. Still works, though I can see an opportunity to lose the magnet. I also heard some mysterious new beeps which I assume were errors (I was trying things, little bits of aluminum foil, you don't wanna know).
I'll have a fresh outlook tomorrow, 'bout had it today with techno stuff.
Unfortunately Gold falls below Copper in conductivity, with Silver the best of all metals.
A "All Copper" Mech with Silver plated contacts would be awesome IMO..I would think voltage drop would be nil to nothing.
I understand voltage loss is a concern, but with VV/VW you can account for this by raising the power/voltage as needed to compensate.
Also, silver and copper tarnish - whereas gold does not. For this application I think gold is the superior choice over either copper or silver.
I think people get hung up on silver and copper (silver in particular lately) but in a real world application the conductivity of silver wouldn't justify the real world performance drop as it tarnishes. Unless you clean it religiously. Remember, even if you can't see the oxidation, it's already there, affecting performance.
Also, silver and copper tarnish - whereas gold does not. For this application I think gold is the superior choice over either copper or silver.
I think people get hung up on silver and copper (silver in particular lately) but in a real world application the conductivity of silver wouldn't justify the real world performance drop as it tarnishes. Unless you clean it religiously. Remember, even if you can't see the oxidation, it's already there, affecting performance.
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For years now, i've seen a lot of mis-information about conductivity and materials.
The biggest mistake i see made is looking at a conductivity chart and saying, "hey such and such material has the highest conductivity, it must be the best!"
Two Problems with that:
1. People misread conductivity charts, not realizing that the specs listed on conductivity charts are based upon a given distance electricity has to pass through said material. So if you take platings for example: Gold, Rhodium, Silver, Palladium etc that are only applied in under thousandths of inch thick, their effective resistance are all equal to begin with (see #2). The electricity passes through the platings and the bulk of the current is carried by the base material to which the plating has been applied to.
2. I said "to begin with" because in the case of silver, silver has a high oxidization rate, so the moment you are done cleaning it, it begins to oxidize and your conductivity and connection immediately begins to degrade. Precious metal platings like Gold and Rhodium, do not oxidize, EVER.
Heres my thoughts on silver posted several months ago:
1. It is a very high rate of tarnish/oxidization/corrosion even faster then raw brass (which unplated brass should never be used either as it exhibits many of the same pitfalls as silver). Any gains seen with its high conductivity are immediately lost as it immediately starts oxidizing/tarnishing after a cleaning.
2. Silver is extremely soft at approximately 250-300 knoop hardness rating (Rhodium has an 800 knoop hardness rating). Even with a thicker plating (which is relative when plating metals, they are ALL extremely thin, often .0001 or less thick). Silver will wear through to bare metal in a much shorter time and even quicker as you constantly have to clean it to keep the contacts corrosion free.
3. Low Melting point and extremely susceptible to electrical arcing due to its low melting point (electrical arcing is a big factor in DC circuits as electrical arcing causes pitting and oxidizations (usually seen as little black specs in the plating) and degrades the electrical connection
4. Susecptible to many cleaning chemicals and readily dissolves in acids.
Cost Per ounce: Silver $30.00 per ounce. Rhodium $1400.00 per Ounce
The biggest mistake i see made is looking at a conductivity chart and saying, "hey such and such material has the highest conductivity, it must be the best!"
Two Problems with that:
1. People misread conductivity charts, not realizing that the specs listed on conductivity charts are based upon a given distance electricity has to pass through said material. So if you take platings for example: Gold, Rhodium, Silver, Palladium etc that are only applied in under thousandths of inch thick, their effective resistance are all equal to begin with (see #2). The electricity passes through the platings and the bulk of the current is carried by the base material to which the plating has been applied to.
2. I said "to begin with" because in the case of silver, silver has a high oxidization rate, so the moment you are done cleaning it, it begins to oxidize and your conductivity and connection immediately begins to degrade. Precious metal platings like Gold and Rhodium, do not oxidize, EVER.
Heres my thoughts on silver posted several months ago:
1. It is a very high rate of tarnish/oxidization/corrosion even faster then raw brass (which unplated brass should never be used either as it exhibits many of the same pitfalls as silver). Any gains seen with its high conductivity are immediately lost as it immediately starts oxidizing/tarnishing after a cleaning.
2. Silver is extremely soft at approximately 250-300 knoop hardness rating (Rhodium has an 800 knoop hardness rating). Even with a thicker plating (which is relative when plating metals, they are ALL extremely thin, often .0001 or less thick). Silver will wear through to bare metal in a much shorter time and even quicker as you constantly have to clean it to keep the contacts corrosion free.
3. Low Melting point and extremely susceptible to electrical arcing due to its low melting point (electrical arcing is a big factor in DC circuits as electrical arcing causes pitting and oxidizations (usually seen as little black specs in the plating) and degrades the electrical connection
4. Susecptible to many cleaning chemicals and readily dissolves in acids.
| Silver | Rhodium | |
| Hardness Rating | 300 | 800 |
| Oxidization/Corrosion/Tarnish Rate | Extremely High | Non existent. Will never corrode/oxidize/tarnish |
| Melting Point | 1763F | 3567F |
| Electrical Arcing Susceptibility | High | Extremly Low (electrical arcs can reach momentary temps of 10,000+F) |
| Chemical/Acid Resistance | Low Readily dissolves in acid | Impervious to almost all known chemicals and acids (its why they couldn't save my rhodium parts after poor plating, theres no way to strip it) |
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Mr. Artist,
There are a couple tones the Crown emits that I don't know how to interpret:
Sometimes it plays what sounds to be the evil theme you get as Darth Vader walks down the hall. I assume this means BAD THINGS (bolstered by the fact that I'm usually doing BAD THINGS to it). But I'm usure of what sort of BAD THINGS it signifies.
Sometimes it play what sounds the be the opening 4 bars of the last movement of Beethoven's 9th "Ode To Joy". I assume this means GOOD THINGS. But I'm usure of what GOOD THINGS it signifies.
If the Manual had a more comprehensive list and examples of the beeps and boops the new version can produce and their meanings, it would be a great help.
There are a couple tones the Crown emits that I don't know how to interpret:
Sometimes it plays what sounds to be the evil theme you get as Darth Vader walks down the hall. I assume this means BAD THINGS (bolstered by the fact that I'm usually doing BAD THINGS to it). But I'm usure of what sort of BAD THINGS it signifies.
Sometimes it play what sounds the be the opening 4 bars of the last movement of Beethoven's 9th "Ode To Joy". I assume this means GOOD THINGS. But I'm usure of what GOOD THINGS it signifies.
If the Manual had a more comprehensive list and examples of the beeps and boops the new version can produce and their meanings, it would be a great help.
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