The Darwin From Evolv!!!

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Katdarling

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Welcome new Darwinians. Arch, I will leave it to our experts here to explain this in detail to you, but in truth, you really don't need to worry about it. Throw any atty/carto on the D'win and it will adjust the voltage itself. You can dial in the warmth (a simple up or down on the button) you like and each hit will be consistent. It's unlike other devices with which you need a chart and a calculator and 27 button presses before enjoying a vape. The D'win is "Set it and forget it".
 

Credo

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Hey everyone I have a question about how resistance matters using a Darwin. Is 8 watts on a 1.5 ohm atty the same heat as 8 watts on a 4.0 ohm atty at 8 watts? Does it just need to pull more power from the device to achieve it?

With a Darwin, if you can screw it on the thing it'll drive it well.

In theory 8 watts is 8 watts. A lower resistance atty will typically draw more amps to achieve the same 8 watts as a higher resistance atty; however, the higher resistance atty needs more 'voltage'.

In short, think of 'volts' as a big water tower on the hill. The bigger and higher that tower is, the more 'potential' energy it has stored up.

Amps would be how 'fast' the water flows from inside the tank out of a spicket somewhere at the other end.

Ohms has to do with the size of the pipes and how much water they can carry when everything is in motion. Lower ohm atties can carry tremendous bursts of energy really quickly (like using a really big pipe, or dumping straight from the tank into a pool). Higher Ohm atties would be more like using a very small pipe...you'd need more 'voltage/pressure' to push the same amount of water through it in a given time frame. With electricity and heat dispersing systems...the size/material ratio can sometimes be the opposite of water pipes (larger thicker coils might have more resistance, as they mix more 'non conductive' materials called insulators such as ceramic clay, silicon, or carbon into the coil's alloy which can add mass/surface area) but the numbers/principles are still going to be similar as with the water system.

In considering the water tower/pipe/nozzle model here, you should be able to quickly start imagining how all of these variables can be changed to impact how much, and how quickly you can move your water around. A big tower way up high gives you more voltage to play with (total source pressure). You can use massive pipes to dump out tons of water at lower velocities, or draw things down to a very small stream with intense amounts of pressure, and so forth.

At the end of the day, imagine you have a 5 gallon bucket at the end of your water system. For this analogy, we'll call the target gallons capacity of that bucket watts. Five gallons/watts is the same no matter what! But there's all sorts of stuff we can do to that water system to control how FAST, and how much PRESSURE is involved in filling that bucket.

So in theory, the total power being pulled is going to be the same between the LR and HR atty. The difference will be the amperage and voltage needed to do get your 8 watts output in a similar time frame.

Darwin uses a simple formula known as Ohm's Law to measure the resistance of the atty, and then tweak the voltage to your target 'wattage'. Meanwhile, it monitors the amperage for safety and limits you to around 3 amps at the high end.

Which is better?
To be honest, every single battery and atty is going to be slightly different in terms of which will drain the battery faster (HR or LR), but it seems that most of us are finding that HR gear has a slightly better battery life between recharges. Particularly if you like cooler settings below the 8.5 watt indent.

If you like higher settings, it probably doesn't matter much. LR in theory will heat up and cool off very quickly, so some people who like vaping at the higher temps might stick with LR atties even tho' the Darwin can dish out enough voltage to get up to 12 watts on just about any atty ever made. Some people also like how an LR attie gets as hot as it can get almost instantly, where a higher resistance atty might take a jiffy (100th of a second) or two 'longer' before it gets to it's target temp.

The 'major' advantage of the higher resistance stuff is that you will get MORE control over the actual temperature of your atty. I.E. With a 1.7 Ohm atty, the gate is wide open at very low voltages. You'll hit the amp limit of the Darwin at around 3.7 volts. Since the Darwin will only go down to about 3.4v or so, it is difficult if not impossible to run the LR atomizer at lower temperatures, plus the 'resolution' or curve of control that you get is very small (between 3.4v and somewhere around 3.7v). With LR, you're pretty much destined to run it wide open (as hot as it will go), and you probably won't notice much if any difference as you play around with the power setting wheel on the Darwin.

In contrast, if you have an HR atty from 3 to 4 Ohms, you have all kinds of room to play with! You can drop the power down to it's lowest settings and as you gradually crank it up notice that you don't run out of amps (Darwin has somewhere around a 3 amp limit for safety) until you get up around 6 volts or more! This means you can really fine tune in a sweet spot for your various liquids. Also, if you happen to like a liquid at a lower temperature, you'll see that the battery is barely trickling out the amps, and you might be able to go nearly twice as long before needing a recharge.

So, to answer your question. Yes, in theory 8 watts is 8 watts. In reality, it all depends on your atty, the way it is designed, and the liquids you like to use in it as to which performs better for you.

You can run anything you have on the Darwin and tweak it to it's peak performance. Use up your stock of LR stuff by all means (and if you have a favorite there's no reason not to keep buying them); however, HR stuff is going to give you a much greater curve of adjustment, is probably going to last a little longer (has more insulation material in the coils that tends to prolong the life of the coil), and may even give you a slight increase in time between needed battery charges.
 
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NebulaBrot

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Arch,
I will not attempt to correct anything Credo said because everything in that post is correct. However, I can add to it a little bit.

Many will argue that watts are watts and from the electrical perspective - they are correct. However, it is clear that many have preferences and some of them (me included) are adamant about their preferences. I have seen many who swear by LR and will not vape anything else. Personally, I do not like anything LR and have not liked LR gear since about 2 months into my vaping experiences.

EVERYTHING vaping is completely subjective. In any combination of device(s), batteries, attys/cartos, juices and/or regulation (of any type) - if you change any component the vape experience will change at least to some degree. 510 LR is different from 901 LR as is 306 LR, 801 style LR etc. The same goes for standard resistance and higher resistances. Change from IMR batts to non IMR batts when using LR gear and you will see differences in the vape as well. Obviously, changing juices will change everything as will if you merely change the VG/PG ratios in the very same juice.

I like to think of the vape experience more like cooking. If you cook the very same food, with the very same seasonings all at the very same temperature and just change the cooking surfaces - you will see differences in the food taste, texture, etc. For example - if you were to do this side-by-side comparison using an aluminum pan, a cast iron pan, and a grill - all same food and same temps - you will see the final cooked food will be different from each cooking surface. With vaping, we are sort of cooking the juices and the various ingredients in those juices respond differently to different heat levels (in vaping watts are expressed as heat) and so - to me - switching the same Ωs but different model attys is like the cooking analogy using the different pans/cooking surfaces. To take this analogy one step further, as Credo has indicated, higher resistances will give you more range to the achievable watts scale and therefore more access to a wider range of temperatures (vaping watts). LR gear is designed to simulate/imitate higher voltage vaping using lower volts so by its very design it limits you to the upper range of vapable watts.

Some people may even find they like one style atty/carto in LR, another model in standard resistance and yet another in higher Ωs. Some may find they prefer certain juices in certain attys/cartos in one of the various Ωs ratings and yet others in something completely different. It is all completely subjective and as I have posted in the past, there really is no "better/best" there is only YOUR "better/best". So you sort of have to experiment and see what YOU like.

For the first year+ I vaped pretty much only tobacco and tobacco/menthol juices. I tried pretty much every atty and carto on the market and many different devices (including several variable voltage devices). After many comparisons, I concluded that I (for my tastes) did not enjoy tobacco/tobacco-menthol juices in cartos and that I preferred one atty model/version/Ωs over all others. Then I switched to fruit and sweeter juices and found I prefer those in cartos (again with one model and Ωs level preferred above all others).

So, experiment and have fun - you will find what YOU like better/best and that is all that matters.
:toast: and Happy :vapor:
 
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