I do not know, as I do not have a shield. They "should" fit over the tube but there are no holes in the tube. The base of that carto is wider so I suspect they will not fit over that part. There are small holes in that wider base but you only leak juice from them if you overfill. So, leakage is easily avoided. Personally, I sometimes "top-off" a carto on the device but I "fill" them off the device because I am filling over 1ml of juice (why risk spilling on any device?). Fill them and let them sit for a few minutes. If they don't leak, you should be ok. As you start
vaping, you are using up juice and any limited overfill would be quickly absorbed into the carto filler and held. I have just recently started experimenting with these cartos and I like them. I have only one time (out of about 5 fills) had any juice leak from those holes. As with any carto, fill slowly and make sure you are not pooling any juice above the top of the filler. If it looks any wetter than a non-drippy snow cone, place the connector end in a tissue or paper towel and blow gently thru the open end. Any excess juice will blow out into the tissue/paper-towel.
Atty leakage is a result of over-dripping/flooding. Direct dripping is sort of an art. If you add more than you vape, the accumulation over a few drip rounds will eventually result in excessive juice in the cup under the atty coil. with enough accumulation, that excess will leak from the airholes in the connector threads on 510 and 306 attys and from from the downward facing airholes on 801 styles. 901s leak much faster due to the side airhole (the reason the drip shield was invented). So, the "art" of dripping is to develop a level of awareness of the amount you vape vs the amount you drip.
In other words, if you drip 3 drops and vape 2 - then drip 3 drops and vape 2, you can see that the unvaped drop(s) start to accumulate. In short time you have an over-drip/flood situation and will inevitably get leakage. This has nothing to do with any device - this is all the person dripping. Some devices have catch cups to "catch" this leakage. The 510 & 306 attys have the airholes in the threads and can suck up into the atty excess juice accumulated in the "cup". 901s cannot recapture "suck-up" excess juice in a catch cup so some creative people created the drip shield to accomplish the same effect from the side hole.
801 styles pose more of a problem as their air holes point directly down. using the Stealth adapters "can" bring those airholes close enough to a catch cup to allow excess juice in such a cup to be drawn back up the airholes. The problem with most 801s is that the coil and internal cup are higher up the tube so the "suck-up" effect requires that juice to travel farther upwards to reach the coil and wicking materials. So, more often than not, that extra juice - even if drawn back upwards - can leak right back out. There are some exceptions to this but it is a generalization.
Darwin design (folding atty connection) prevents the use of the typical catch cups as any juice would spill when you fold the atty (or if we vape with the atty at an angle). So, while some criticize the absence of a catch cup, learning the art of dripping obviates any need for a cup.
I have been a dedicated dripper since soon after I started vaping. I experienced all of these issues early on. In time, I started paying more attention to the signals that indicate I have vaped out the juice I added. These signals are by no means definitive but they are noticeable if we pay attention. In time, we develop a better sense of the juice in the atty and leakage problems go away. Try non-activation drawing occasionally and listen to the sounds (each atty model will sound a bit different so you have to sort of learn the attys YOU use). If you hear any hint of even the slightest gurgle or liquid movement, do not add more juice yet. Even after that sound goes away, take a hit and if you are getting relatively full flavor - do not add juice yet. Many people think they should add more drops as soon as there is any change in the flavor or vapor production. This is incorrect because you may still have more juice in the internal cup beneath the coil or in the metal fibers of the outer-most wicking material that has not yet wicked to the coil. Take one or two non-activating draws to try sucking juice towards the coil. Then take another activating hit. When you start to get a hint of "dratty" (check the Urban Dictionary = dry atty) taste - this is probably time to add more (but I usually do one more non-activating draw and then hit to be sure).
I know this sounds like a lot but if you pay attention to these steps for about a week, it becomes so unbelievably automatic that you forget you are even doing it. It is sort of like when you first learned to drive; at first it seems like there are a million things to pay attention to but in short time most of them become so automatic you don't realize you are doing them. At least once or twice each day I do about three or four dry burns (about 3 seconds each) to heat up any remaining juice in the atty and then remove it and blow it out. Using 801 style attys, I have not seen a drop leak from the bottom of my attys in a very long time. The only exception is if I leave unvaped juice in an atty and then leave it standing up in a hot car - the juice can leak out the bottom. Never happened on my Darwin (I fold the atty and place in cup holder bottom of device down so atty holes face up).
I hope some find this info helpful. As we have seen, some people try to blame devices for "leaking" but devices cannot leak (well, feeders with juice in them can but not non-feeders). Leakage can only come from juice and if a device has no juice in it - how can it leak? Leakage can only come from attys and attys only leak if they are overfilled.
and Happy
