The Echo Thread

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Charlz

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Side project: The .5ml tanks from Mtn vapor hold the key to replacing the braided air tubes on the echimizers. If you rip one apart, you can save the upside down cup and tube. Fit the cup over the coil and trim down a braided air tube to slip over the acrylic air tube of the original tank so it stays at the right height.

The slots on the cup need to be trimmed up so they don't pinch the wicks down (and may need to be widened or the may trap vapor and cause condensation.................)

I began this project a while ago but got distracted. I think it may solve the problem of the fiber air tubes becoming too brittle over time near the coil as the cup would last longer.

Give me a week or so to get this ce2/turbo mod down and I will get back to this. Right now my echomizers are running well and don't need modding. When I have to take one apart, I'll try again with the rebuild using the acrylic cup. (unless someone else wants to try tackling this one)
 
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CloveHunter

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OK, quick review on the new Echo sealed stealth with new 5V/300mAh charger from Cropduster.

It's awesome. Mine is black rubberized 650. Charging time app. 2.5 hours, hold charge for more than half a day (6+ hours for sure) - using it with single coil Echomizer (also from Tony) and switch it once in a while with KR8 horizontal coil cartos. Cut off is more than 7 seconds, can't reach the limit with my short breath.

I need to do a double check on this but it seems like it is unregulated. Surprise! I did my test it was 4.2V off the charge then tapered down to 4.1V after some minutes and 3.8v after 4-5 hours of usage.

So yes, so far no problem with this new version of Echo. Haven't try it with DC Echomizer (does it make a difference? - Errol mentioned it was not a very good experience) and iTurbo/CE4.

Of course for reliability we have to wait for a couple of weeks/months - but for now, I think I have a good Echo.

Small unimportant detail, I found the 'serial code' engraved on the sealed battery post.
 

Charlz

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Seems they got the bugs worked out ok. Considering the new charger and everything else, might as well wait till I need new echomizers and order a kit. I lost my stealth for awhile and just found it yesterday so I never sent it back. Mine works great for like 3 hours then it's that hard whistle draw issue. It's developing now and it measures 3.8.

Be interesting to see if it holds steadier with the new stealth and where the drop off point is. On my 1100mah kgo 4.2v it holds steady for a full day until just over 3.6 and then it drops off. It would be awesome if these worked the same.

That being said, 4.2v has always scorched a regular horizontal carto and it can be a little much for the duals. BUT.....the horizontal cartos do work much better at the 4.2v so this is going to be a new experience for all of us. It's like our echos died for a moment and came back better than ever!

They should call them echo phoenix instead of stealth.
 

CloveHunter

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That being said, 4.2v has always scorched a regular horizontal carto and it can be a little much for the duals. BUT.....the horizontal cartos do work much better at the 4.2v so this is going to be a new experience for all of us. It's like our echos died for a moment and came back better than ever!

That's how I found out it was unregulated.

After filling a fresh Echomizer and waiting it to soak, I was so convinced the Echo is regulated (I only test the voltage once previously, it was 3.8V) so I attached a regular horizontal carto on Echo fresh from charge and it scorched - just like when I put a horizontal carto on my fresh of charge KR8 gen1.
 

Charlz

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That's how I found out it was unregulated.

After filling a fresh Echomizer and waiting it to soak, I was so convinced the Echo is regulated (I only test the voltage once previously, it was 3.8V) so I attached a regular horizontal carto on Echo fresh from charge and it scorched - just like when I put a horizontal carto on my fresh of charge KR8 gen1.

The old ones seem to have some kind of regulation-the led kind. That being said, sometimes I would get an echomizer measuring about 3.2 ohms in the 2.8 to 3.2 scale and it was a little cool. Modding my echomizers down to 2.5 may become a thing of the past. It was only necessary for my pipe vapes which I found I enjoy best at around 5.5-6 watts.
 

lulu836

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I sent an email to Rob this morning inquiring about the Echo 1300 on his site. The answer was:

Our Echo 1300's are not stealth. They are the standard 3.7 regulated (sealed) with LED on the end, blue on the black battery and red/orange on the chrome and stainless.

Thanks.

Rob

Personally I don't care for the stealths. The one I did get is short-lived and lasts about the equivalent of a 650.
 

txtumbleweed

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I sent an email to Rob this morning inquiring about the Echo 1300 on his site. The answer was:

Our Echo 1300's are not stealth. They are the standard 3.7 regulated (sealed) with LED on the end, blue on the black battery and red/orange on the chrome and stainless.

Thanks.

Rob

Personally I don't care for the stealths. The one I did get is short-lived and lasts about the equivalent of a 650.

Where did you get your stealth?
 

Charlz

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I sent an email to Rob this morning inquiring about the Echo 1300 on his site. The answer was:

Our Echo 1300's are not stealth. They are the standard 3.7 regulated (sealed) with LED on the end, blue on the black battery and red/orange on the chrome and stainless.

Thanks


Rob

Personally I don't care for the stealths. The one I did get is short-lived and lasts about the equivalent of a 650.

It would be nice if there were 2 options available. If Rob is going to continue to be able to buy the regulated versions, this is nice. Keep our fingers crossed.

I do believe that whatever issues Hangsen was having with the stealth is behind us now. That and there may have been some other brand echo stealth on the market. Keep you eyes on the thread as more folks buy the stealth and report.
 

Cyrus Vap

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Interesting. The 3ml plug works perfect with the 2.5 ml vision. I have to look at it, perhaps its just an issue of the wider base on that vision vs. the fluxo

@SLEL. I have 3s, 5s, 10s, and 20s. All crap!

Northwest Vapors has the turbos in too. For the 2 out of the seven that I couldn't fix, I stuck an xl ce2 inside. It fits perfectly as long as you don't play with the bottom seal once it is in. A 3ml syringe plunger makes a good seal for the turbos. The echomizers are a little wider and don't work as well-need to find a better seal for Cyrus' mod (ce2/echomizer) They hold over 2mls of juice (I'll get a better measurement when I vape one dry) which is almost enough for a whole day as it uses it more efficiently than a filler carto without waste.

Things that help the turbos are making sure the silicon sleeve isn't pinching the wicks and if you lay another wick on top, make sure it is short and the wicks aren't sitting in juice. The shape of the shell can trap juice up top so these need to wick through natural tipping

Even with my ce2/turbo mod, I trimmed the wicks so they sit above the ml guage.
 

Charlz

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He's out of 650 now, I hope the new stock will be the regulated with LED so we will always have 2 options.

I may be in possession of the very last regulated 650 unsealed echo to be sold. Good thing chrome wasn't a popular color for the 650.

Cyrus, you may have to go to a hardware store and pour through the grommet section. Not Lowe's their selection sux....at least here they do. Don't forget to grab some orings. I have some that I have stored in a ziplock so I can't tell you what size they are but they fixed the issue of the seal twisting around when I go to take off the turbo. Maybe try some off a echo base......... I can't remember where I bought my syringe. Perhaps medical ones are different?
 

Cyrus Vap

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I think we probably have the same 3ml grommet, as mine is close to right, but ends up failing as you described. It just needs a *touch* more

I'll try adding something else to it. Will visit Lowe's soon.

Had an epic failure of a fluxo re coiling fest today. I can't solder for s**t, and I can't pull it off without it either. Seems the base contact only works if its touching the old solder point, or outside the rim. Anything on the inside doesn't work.

And I got a wire (actually a hypodermic needle which I was using a wire alla the rebuildable ce2 thread) under the black cup seal, but then it ended up deforming the seal to the point where it was useless and it popped out.

Saw that loctite btw, it looks promising
 
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