What, no melting point? Are you sure about that?
On another point why cant they make the cart fill out of this stuff?
The facts about cleaning atomizers...
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What, no melting point? Are you sure about that?
On another point why cant they make the cart fill out of this stuff?
The resistance is wrapped on a bundle of fibreglass. These fibres DO NOT MELT OR GET BURNED since they don't really have a melting point but they get softer at 2000°C Fiberglass - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia :
It has no true melting point but softens at 2,000 °C (3,630 °F), where it starts to degrade. At 1,713 °C (3,115 °F), most of the molecules can move about freely.
The resistance will never reach such temperatures because it usually gets around 500-600°
I even tried burning the fibres with a lighter and they DO NOT BURN. They can become black because of the gas coming from the flame but as long as you dryburn an atomizer doing it correctly the fibres will get as white as when it was brand new.
Removing the wicks probably reduces the burned taste just because you remove a part of the fibres where burned juice is stuck in, but if you don't dryburn the atomizer trust me it will only be a matter of time before you have the same "burned taste " and "loss of performance" problem
I have never had an atty quit producing vapor. When vapor production goes down, it has always been a battery problem (in my experience, that is) Atty cleaning for me is to get rid of a bad, burnt juice taste. I have used Everclear, boiled distilled water, Coke,Crest Pro, and just plain blowing. I even tried simulating the jewelry cleaner thing by sitting a small jar of fluid and atties on top of a vibrating aquarium pump. Is one method better than any other? Not really. At least, not that I've seen.
Blucig atties never die. I clean them only to get rid of a juice flavor I didn't like. OK - one did die, but it was a violent death. I stepped on it. But I guess that would kill anything. LOL
My J118 atties never died. They always vaped well, and never tasted bad. The batteries have the lifespan of a fruit fly, though. So I gave up on that model. Too bad, because I really liked that one.
My new favorite PV is the RN4072 penstyle. Batteries last for hours, carts are easy to fill and hold tons of juice, and I just think they look cool
I have a problem with their atomizers though. They last me three weeks to the day! Vapor production is still great - these things are fog machines. It is the taste. On day 22 - they taste like the bottom of a used ashtray with a hint of burnt plastic. I do vape almost exclusively tobacco flavors, but none of them have THAT taste. I've tried cleaning them, but that only gets me one or two carts worth of vaping before the taste comes back.
Any ideas
or am I just stuck with replacing atties all the time?
Thanks,
~A
Blucig atties never die. I clean them only to get rid of a juice flavor I didn't like. OK - one did die, but it was a violent death. I stepped on it. But I guess that would kill anything. LOL
My J118 atties never died. They always vaped well, and never tasted bad. The batteries have the lifespan of a fruit fly, though. So I gave up on that model. Too bad, because I really liked that one.
My new favorite PV is the RN4072 penstyle. Batteries last for hours, carts are easy to fill and hold tons of juice, and I just think they look cool
I have a problem with their atomizers though. They last me three weeks to the day! Vapor production is still great - these things are fog machines. It is the taste. On day 22 - they taste like the bottom of a used ashtray with a hint of burnt plastic. I do vape almost exclusively tobacco flavors, but none of them have THAT taste. I've tried cleaning them, but that only gets me one or two carts worth of vaping before the taste comes back. Any ideas
or am I just stuck with replacing atties all the time?Thanks,
~A
I actually think these devices are pretty useless to clean your atomizer, especially if the fibres have too much burned material on them. I don't think they could remove it all like you do with the dryburn tecnique but this is just reasoning without any evidence. You can give it a try and see what happensI have been thinking of ordering an ultrasonic jewlery cleaner. I think they're only about 30 some dollars. Someone here at ECF has already ordered one, iirc (if I remember correctly).
How would they be used? It's stil a little early, and I have not ordered one yet, but I wonder if you have to use water or distilled water? alcohol? ...things like that.
I really should consider the atomizer to be one of the ecig's jewels.
Hi Angelique, the taste you felt was exactly what I was talking about. It comes from the burned juice stuck on the fibres where the resistance of the atomizer is wrapped on. Once you have used the dryburn method, you'll get rid of that damn taste and the atty will work like a new one or well.... better than before. The resurrection method I read here is correct, just I make it a bit different because it doesn't mention washing the atomizer.I have never had an atty quit producing vapor. When vapor production goes down, it has always been a battery problem (in my experience, that is) Atty cleaning for me is to get rid of a bad, burnt juice taste. I have used Everclear, boiled distilled water, Coke,Crest Pro, and just plain blowing. I even tried simulating the jewelry cleaner thing by sitting a small jar of fluid and atties on top of a vibrating aquarium pump. Is one method better than any other? Not really. At least, not that I've seen.
Blucig atties never die. I clean them only to get rid of a juice flavor I didn't like. OK - one did die, but it was a violent death. I stepped on it. But I guess that would kill anything. LOL
My J118 atties never died. They always vaped well, and never tasted bad. The batteries have the lifespan of a fruit fly, though. So I gave up on that model. Too bad, because I really liked that one.
My new favorite PV is the RN4072 penstyle. Batteries last for hours, carts are easy to fill and hold tons of juice, and I just think they look cool
Any ideas
Thanks,
~A
I wasn't clear on what you meant there.
The Highping dry burn method does mention washing the atomizer.
Well, it talks about rinsing it with very hot water.
That should serve two purposes, to get any dried out juice out of the coil mesh that could be impeding airflow, and to rinse out ash left over from doing the dry burns.
By the way, I realize the Highping method is nothing fancy, and that this knowledge was around long before he wrote it up into a step-by-step method, but I still offer him credit for doing so in a way that makes it easy for even ...... like me to do.
I use my 18650 batteries with my Chuck to do 3.7v dry burns and it works perfectly.
I don't even have to pump the button to keep from popping the atomizer.
I can just sit on it as long as I want and it never gets above a nice orange glow.
I guess we have to take it on faith that Aramid is what is used in every single atomizer out there. And that manufactures in China, who by the way have almost no internationally recognized manufacturing standards, government oversight or even a plausible court system, would Never substitute such a fine product like Aramid for an inferior one to save some money or meet a production schedual.
But even if they didnt, my problem with Aramid or E-Glass or Spectra is not its melting point. It is the fumes that are emitted when a substance like Aramid starts to degrade under thermal load.
From the link you posted;
Aramid fiber characteristics
Aramids share a high degree of orientation with other fibers such as ultra high molecular weight polyethylene, a characteristic which dominates their properties.
[edit] General
- good resistance to abrasion
- good resistance to organic solvents
- nonconductive
- no melting point, degradation starts from 500°C
- low flammability
- good fabric integrity at elevated temperatures
- sensitive to acids and salts
- sensitive to ultravioletradiation
- prone to static build-up unless finished[3]
I guess a fair question to ask is, How Hot does an Atomizer get when a Cartridge is Vaped until it is Dry?
Lets all hope that it is below 930 degrees Fahrenheit. Or that what ever the Chinese use as a cheap substitute for Aramid degrades at a higher temperature.
Yes, it mentions to wash it, just he just told to do it before dryburning. Like you said you need to wash it even after each dryburn session if it's pretty long or when dryburning is complete to remove the small ash residues still stuck in there but I might haven't seen it was specified in the methodI wasn't clear on what you meant there.
The Highping dry burn method does mention washing the atomizer.
Well, it talks about rinsing it with very hot water.
That should serve two purposes, to get any dried out juice out of the coil mesh that could be impeding airflow, and to rinse out ash left over from doing the dry burns.
By the way, I realize the Highping method is nothing fancy, and that this knowledge was around long before he wrote it up into a step-by-step method, but I still offer him credit for doing so in a way that makes it easy for even ...... like me to do.
Just tried to resurrect my cold dead disposable Boge Q510 atty, coil was broken at one side, so i tried to stretch it to make contact but i failed. Broke the other side of coil so it comes out of an atty.
I inspected the coil then. I believe that Boge Q510 uses slightly different design than Joye´s, the wick was stick tightly between two layers of bridge mesh and on the other side it run through the center of the coil, thus making wick impossible to pull out without removing the bridge.
The part of the wick, running through center of coil was black carbonized mess, when i scraped it out, it was just black ash.
So, this makes sure, at least for Boge Q510, that they DO substitute Aramid with some cheap crap.
Lesson learned.
m401 user... You shouldnt post stuff like this.
I completely undermines the concept that atomizers wicking materials can not degrade under heat.
truth is truth though, if 1 company is using sub-standard materials then ppl should know in order to not use that company - if we just try to cover it up then we're as bad, if not worse than the FDA.
So how does a consumer know what "company" is using sub-standard materials? Seem like most of the atomizers and cartomizers are sold "unbranded".
Web sites just tend to say
510 Atomizer - 9.95$
or
510 Cartimiers (5 Pack) - 8.95$
Am I the only one that cannot find any Highping method discussed below? I searched for ping and it only shows up here and couple other places, dont see anything about dry burn method...
The link was in the original post in the Cleaning Method (2) section...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/69834-my-atty-resurrection-method.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/69834-my-atty-resurrection-method.html
After cleaning my atty, and of course giving a full 24 hours to dry, for the past 3 weeks. Um, well I decided to de-wick and de-bridge my atty, to realize, even when properly drying your atty after using WATER it causes it to corrode and rust, yes i said RUST.
The only way I have found 100% to avoid corrosion and rusting is to use either Pure Grain Alcohol or Iso Alcohol (rubbing alcohol 70 - 91%) using the same steps as you would as the OP.
Totally awesome write-up, but if you want to prolong your atty life and avoid burning rust into your lungs, I would avoid using 100% water, even in a boiling method I would add some alcohol or PGA. I de-bridged my other atty that I've only cleaned with 91% Iso Alcohol to see there is no rust on the coil area as well as no signs of corrosion. ( I vape coffee, espresso and RY4 in both atties)
Note: At first I thought it was just left over burnt residue from e-liquid, but I had my dad take a look and he said it was 100% for sure rust. The only thing that removed most of it was a nice 10 -15 min bath in rubbing alcohol and a dry burn about 3 hours later.
Another thing you can do, if you are just trying to switch between flavors or get yuck off the atty is use some straight 100% USP Glycerin, add a drop or 2, vape it (not inhaling it but blowing it out right afterword) quite a few times til empty and you wouldn't believe how nicely it removes flavors, including espresso/coffee, which can linger in an atty all day long. As well as clean the coils.
I was never a huge fan of dry burns, cuz it can cause the coil to pop and kill it. But I will admit if all else fails I will do a quick one.
Okay I'm done putting my opinion out there
The only way I have found 100% to avoid corrosion and rusting is to use either Pure Grain Alcohol or Iso Alcohol (rubbing alcohol 70 - 91%) using the same steps as you would as the OP.
Totally awesome write-up, but if you want to prolong your atty life and avoid burning rust into your lungs, I would avoid using 100% water, even in a boiling method I would add some alcohol or PGA. I de-bridged my other atty that I've only cleaned with 91% Iso Alcohol to see there is no rust on the coil area as well as no signs of corrosion. ( I vape coffee, espresso and RY4 in both atties)
Note: At first I thought it was just left over burnt residue from e-liquid, but I had my dad take a look and he said it was 100% for sure rust. The only thing that removed most of it was a nice 10 -15 min bath in rubbing alcohol and a dry burn about 3 hours later.
Another thing you can do, if you are just trying to switch between flavors or get yuck off the atty is use some straight 100% USP Glycerin, add a drop or 2, vape it (not inhaling it but blowing it out right afterword) quite a few times til empty and you wouldn't believe how nicely it removes flavors, including espresso/coffee, which can linger in an atty all day long. As well as clean the coils.
I was never a huge fan of dry burns, cuz it can cause the coil to pop and kill it. But I will admit if all else fails I will do a quick one.
Okay I'm done putting my opinion out there
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This is the first mention of rust that I've heard of on these forums.
If it really is rust, though, I would think it would come from the water that is in the juice we use.
I wouldn't think running hot water through the atomizer for a few minutes while doing dry burns would contribute much to any rusting.
Having said that, I do think alcohol might work better than plain water, although I think water works good enough most times.
But I have heard many veterans say not to use isopropyl alcohol as it will leave a residue.
Just throwing that out there, don't know anything about it myself.
If it really is rust, though, I would think it would come from the water that is in the juice we use.
I wouldn't think running hot water through the atomizer for a few minutes while doing dry burns would contribute much to any rusting.
Having said that, I do think alcohol might work better than plain water, although I think water works good enough most times.
But I have heard many veterans say not to use isopropyl alcohol as it will leave a residue.
Just throwing that out there, don't know anything about it myself.
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