The Fist Pack/Mobile Power Univeral Charger

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kinabaloo

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I can't seem to find any.


Also purchased a new multimeter. I can't get an accurate reading of amperage from the battery, or it just doesn't make sense. The highest it got was 16.7 then sparks flew out from the positive side and the battery was hot. Needless to say, I took the case outside and waited for it to detonate. It cooled and nothing happend. I then decided to put it back together and try it from the connector, case got hot, so I quit.

You mean you were tryting to short the output to check that it would cut-out?
 

dedmonwakin

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Apr 16, 2009
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You mean you were tryting to short the output to check that it would cut-out?
No, not intentionally atleast. I don't have any shorts. All I wanted to do is check the amperage. I did exactly as my meter instructions state, one of two things happens. The smart circuitry shuts off, or if I check directly to the end of the batteries, it cuts sparks and gets hot.

Also, what do you think if I swapped the 2200mAh battery for a 2600mAh, would this be a conflict to the circuitry?
 
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framitz

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May 24, 2009
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RSM, CA
I can't seem to find any.


Also purchased a new multimeter. I can't get an accurate reading of amperage from the battery, or it just doesn't make sense. The highest it got was 16.7 then sparks flew out from the positive side and the battery was hot. Needless to say, I took the case outside and waited for it to detonate. It cooled and nothing happend. I then decided to put it back together and try it from the connector, case got hot, so I quit.
DO NOT use your meter to measure current directly accross the battery!!!
You are creating a dead short circuit. If you want to measure current put the meter in series with the device being tested. NEVER across the battery terminals, NEVER.:evil:

I don't mean to come off so strong but if this was a higher voltage and current you could easily have been injured by molten metal or UV light.
I went to measure voltage on a very large 48V battery one time and someone had switched the meter to current as a joke when I looked away. The probe tip vaporized instantly on contact blowing a large hole in the battery terminal and spewing white hot molten lead and brass in my face. My glasses were the only thing that saved my left eye, there was a divot in the lens and I was seeing purple spots in the center of my vision for several hours. When I found out who played the 'joke' he became unemployed at the end of the shift.
 
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dedmonwakin

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Apr 16, 2009
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Destin,FL.
DO NOT use your meter to measure current directly accross the battery!!!
You are creating a dead short circuit. If you want to measure current put the meter in series with the device being tested. NEVER across the battery terminals, NEVER.:evil:
Thanks! I understand, I don't take offense, I know I'm definately out of my league, but willing to take risks, but rather avoid them if possible. How do I put the meter in series?
 
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framitz

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May 24, 2009
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To measure current to the atty you need to disconnect a wire that goes to it and insert the meter in current mode. In other words connect one meter probe to the atty and the other to the wire you just disconnected, now activate the atty and read the actual current that it is drawing. all the current going through the atty is now going trough the meter as well in series.
 

dedmonwakin

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Apr 16, 2009
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To measure current to the atty you need to disconnect a wire that goes to it and insert the meter in current mode. In other words connect one meter probe to the atty and the other to the wire you just disconnected, now activate the atty and read the actual current that it is drawing. all the current going through the atty is now going trough the meter as well in series.
Gotcha! Thank you again!
 
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framitz

Moved On
May 24, 2009
654
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Gotcha! Thank you again!

Wait, wouldn't this be the same as touching only the positve end of the atty, then the negative end? wouldnt the circuit would be completed either way?
If you connected to both positive and negative of the atty it would be the same as going directly across the battery, you must BREAK the circuit.


+ of batt ________+ATTY-negative side of battery (as wired)

+ of batt ________+ATTY-____+Meter-_____negative side of battery (to measure current)

Above the ____ is wire with devices identified. See how the meter is between the atty and the battery.

If you want to measure voltage THEN you go across the device being measured such as the atty to see how much the atty is dropping(consuming). Just make sure you have the meter in VDC, in a range at or above what is expected. (rule of thumb is to start one range higher than expected if uncertain)
 

kinabaloo

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No, not intentionally atleast. I don't have any shorts. All I wanted to do is check the amperage. I did exactly as my meter instructions state, one of two things happens. The smart circuitry shuts off, or if I check directly to the end of the batteries, it cuts sparks and gets hot.

Also, what do you think if I swapped the 2200mAh battery for a 2600mAh, would this be a conflict to the circuitry?

So, the point next to the capacitor seems good.

If replace the battery with a protected one, by all means go higher with the mAh if it will fit; and it has a high output current capability (not a backup type lithium).
 

dedmonwakin

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Apr 16, 2009
584
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Destin,FL.
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dedmonwakin

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Apr 16, 2009
584
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Destin,FL.
Here is the main board, the unlabeled arrow is pointing at a leg that also emits 4.2 volts. I'm not sure if this is just another area that is being supplied direct current from the battery, so I chose not to connect here.
chip.jpg



This is the breadboard that not only contains the LED's on the backside, but I'm wondering if this is where the actual protection chip is.
100_2724.jpg
 
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kinabaloo

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Great pics.

In the middle the chip is a CN3052A : USB-Compatible Lithium Ion Battery Charger

See: USB-Compatible Lithium-Ion Battery Charger with Thermal Regulation

What is the value of R2? I assume it is on the other side of the board. Or what are the color bands on it?

On the small board is a quad op amp chip (the bigger one, LM314); this does the voltage / charge level in association with the 4 LEDs; much like a circuit I posted once before.

What number is on the smaller chip on this board (at top of photo)? It ends 5514.

And on the main board, what is the numbering / identifier for the chip marked as U3 on the board (top left of photo)? And what connector is next to it - usb in or out?
 
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dedmonwakin

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Apr 16, 2009
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kinabaloo

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it says 102, is that a micro resistor?

edit: sorry, it states 102 on R3.
R2 is 101

101 would be 100 ohms; if that is what it means. Does that point connect only to R2 and the capacitor, not anywhere else?

And, which connector is which (input / output)?
 

dedmonwakin

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Apr 16, 2009
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101 would be 100 ohms; if that is what it means. Does that point connect only to R2 and the capacitor, not anywhere else?

And, which connector is which (input / output)?
The R2 ends at the positive leg of the small capacitor, and before it is that little black box with the etching 0W11.

What do you mean, which is input/output?
If you mean by charge, the center is the mini usb and the far left is the USB out,
 
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