The Fist Pack/Mobile Power Univeral Charger
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If there is battery short protection it is likely one of the two chips on the right, near the battery + connection.
Hard to tell from a distance but the location you were connecting at before is quite possibly correct. Otherwise, maybe at C1.
Hard to tell from a distance but the location you were connecting at before is quite possibly correct. Otherwise, maybe at C1.
Well, first off, the markings for the POS and NEG battery connections are mislabeled, sorry bout that. Everything else is correct.
Okay, I'll go through each chip:
Top left of pic:
U6)1610P0 256DA
Underneath:
U3)small black box/Unknown, no etching exists. But equal in size and shape to (Q3)
Center:
U1)CN3025A 78131
Top Center Slightly Right:
Q3:A0YA with a sideways 13
Bottom Right Corner:
U2)0W11
Directly Above U2:
Q4) 8614 807429
Opposite side.
Large capacitor-6.3v 220uf
Small capacitor- 10v 47uf
Above the large capacitor is a small black box with the stamp 220 on it.
That's it.
Okay, I'll go through each chip:
Top left of pic:
U6)1610P0 256DA
Underneath:
U3)small black box/Unknown, no etching exists. But equal in size and shape to (Q3)
Center:
U1)CN3025A 78131
Top Center Slightly Right:
Q3:A0YA with a sideways 13
Bottom Right Corner:
U2)0W11
Directly Above U2:
Q4) 8614 807429
Opposite side.
Large capacitor-6.3v 220uf
Small capacitor- 10v 47uf
Above the large capacitor is a small black box with the stamp 220 on it.
That's it.
Sorry to interupt the reverse engineering, but I just have to say;
This is possibly the very best MOD I've seen yet. It makes the expensive 'commercial' Mods look crude in comparison.
As an experienced electronics tech, I am also interested in the circuitry. Your MOD with this battery assembly has major potential. . .
This is possibly the very best MOD I've seen yet. It makes the expensive 'commercial' Mods look crude in comparison.
As an experienced electronics tech, I am also interested in the circuitry. Your MOD with this battery assembly has major potential. . .
It's tricky without the board in my hands. There are parts I cannot trace. The battery positive is on the left. It is fed by the charger chip and also passes a diode (when in use, top left); not sure what happens after that as I can't see the main path out from the top left chip 
At least we know it uses a good charger chip.
The other chips are proprietary. One is the voltage converter (3.7 to 5).
The correct point is either as you had it, or at C1. I think you said the voltage at the other round capacitor was 5v.
Check out those two locations and check again as the battery fades.
At least we know it uses a good charger chip.
The other chips are proprietary. One is the voltage converter (3.7 to 5).
The correct point is either as you had it, or at C1. I think you said the voltage at the other round capacitor was 5v.
Check out those two locations and check again as the battery fades.
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Your not interrupting at all! This is an open thread and all are welcome to have input. I'm not trying to make money on this, I would love this to be an option to those who are interested in buying those commercial mods/pv's without having to spend 100-150 bucks for it.
Post away!
Yeah, I checked when I almost blew myself up trying to check the current....(P.S. I know better, really I do. Vaping 24mg for almost 24hours straight is equivalent to taking 2 800mg stupid pills)
Anyway, the leg of the little capacitor read 3.4v and what was once 5.2v on the large capcitor leveled off to 5v. (when it was finally at 1 1/2 light status.)
It might be that there is no separate over-discharge and short protection; it might be handled by the voltage converter. In this case, battery replacement with a protected version.
Though the location of your original connection might be correct.
Or it is built into the battery charge monitoring board.
Though the location of your original connection might be correct.
Or it is built into the battery charge monitoring board.
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I'm am trying to search for something in the house that is dead and I can recharge to just drain the crap out of it to no light status. Once no light show, I'll try the atty....
Now, for the risk.......
over discharging, hopefully it's like my son's R/C Li-po's where the only thing to really expect is that it wont hold a charge again, unless I force charge it with a much higher current.......
The part that doesnt make sense is: D1. The connector on the left of the photo is the usb IN, correct? And the battery + is also on the left? So looks like the battery + connects via D1 to the usb connector as though it is the output usb, and directly (at 3.7v not 5v); two impossibles! Can you double check these ?
ps: I can't think of a way so far to be sure that there is battery protection on the board other than what the voltage converter provides.
Connect a usb fan or something with a motor and wait to see if it stops suddenly or just fizzles out. Once stopped, check the voltage at the capacitor. If zero good; if aroud 2.5-3v, not the right location.
You should not be able to damage the battery by doing this (using the usb out).
You should not be able to damage the battery by doing this (using the usb out).
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The left bottom corner is the pos for the battery, and directly above is the USB output..
The Manufacture site says there is protection on board.
"Intellectual protection circuit
rotection for overcharge, overdischarge, overload and Short circuit"
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Guys, I have to say that I am in awe.
Unbelievably awesome!
This thing even looks great!
Unbelievably awesome!
This thing even looks great!
If it didn't look good, and have a 4 LED charge state indicator, I'd say just get a usb charge chip and put into a NicoBox.
But as it does look good its worth working out, even though the usb output is not required (might be handy though; not onlt can you vape with it but supply power to your mobile/camera etc in an emergency).
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The left bottom corner is the pos for the battery, and directly above is the USB output..
The Manufacture site says there is protection on board.
"Intellectual protection circuit
Remember that now
So drain the unit and then check the voltage at the capacitor. Hopefully get a good result (that point is 'cut', zero voltage) at the same time the usb out is 'cut'.
ps: the circuit might be a positive ground design.
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This is too cool.... I'm going to have to try this after I get done with my nico-stick (if ever) LOL
I think the switch issue was in another thread, but no problem
Certainly look better than those spindly red ones, and would be much nicer to use. Good find
Just wonder if they are the same except with a new hat; the bottom part looks very familiar ...
Even if that's the case, still a better choice, though a bit pricey.
Didn't know there was a switch thread was replying to your post in this one. ONLY problem I see with them is 12mm hole that is just less than 1/2 inch. You were looking for quality parts, expect to pay a quality price. 8 switches for less than 12.00 USD delivered doesn't seem to be too much for quality.I think the switch issue was in another thread, but no problem
Certainly look better than those spindly red ones, and would be much nicer to use. Good find
Just wonder if they are the same except with a new hat; the bottom part looks very familiar ...
Even if that's the case, still a better choice, though a bit pricey.
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