The GUN Show!!!

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SpicyMcHaggis

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Went to a gun show earlier. Didn't spend a nickel, first time that's ever happened. That Obammy is one hell of a gun salesman. I've never seen it so packed, and a line waiting to get in. I've never had to wait in line. They kept coming too, the line was just as long when I left after a couple hours. It was too crowded for me, couldn't move around and couldn't get to the tables a lot of the time. I left some drool on an over priced Bravo Company AR-15 that practically begged me to bring it home. Buddy sold an AK and another picked up an SKS.
 

Gunner83

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I've been to many gun shows, but mainly just to browse and fingerbang guns I can't afford (handled a PS90 at the last one and fell in love with the ergos, but it's way too rich for my blood). Nowadays, there's not many deals to be had at them.


Here's the last AR I put together:


photobucket-7429-1342800303510.jpg
 

shatner

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I've been to many gun shows, but mainly just to browse and fingerbang guns I can't afford (handled a PS90 at the last one and fell in love with the ergos, but it's way too rich for my blood). Nowadays, there's not many deals to be had at them.


Here's the last AR I put together:


photobucket-7429-1342800303510.jpg

Nice looking AR. They're just like Lego with springs. I like that flash suppressor. Got a link? I usually just put A2 birdcages on my client's ARs. Unless they spec otherwise.

My PS-90 with the original ring site. It now has the FN PS90 red dot :)
newguns005.jpg


And my FiveseveN to go with it:
newguns002-1.jpg


I don't carry the 5.7 much. It's more of a range toy.
 
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Gunner83

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I'm thinking of building myself an AR, how much cheaper can I build one compared to buying, say, a complete BCM rifle? The BCM I want is about $1300.

Depends. Got a link to the specific one you're looking at?

BCM is top quality. I've had many of their uppers over the years, and they all ran like butter, no matter what I fed them. In my opinion, where it really matters is the barrel and bolt carrier group (and maybe trigger, if a light pull is important to you). Everything else though, you can most likely get the same quality for cheaper. As far as standard forged lowers, if they're from a reputable company, then they're generally all the same. Sometimes, you're just paying a premium for the roll mark.

My advice is to buy a stripped lower of any reputable brand (which will be hard right now, given the political climate and all the "panic buying" going on) and a lower parts kit of your choice and put it all together yourself. Then buy a complete BCM upper, and just slap it on there. You'll absolutely save some money.

I've assembled many stripped lowers, but I've never assembled an upper from parts yet.
 

shatner

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Depends. Got a link to the specific one you're looking at?

BCM is top quality. I've had many of their uppers over the years, and they all ran like butter, no matter what I fed them. In my opinion, where it really matters is the barrel and bolt carrier group (and maybe trigger, if a light pull is important to you). Everything else though, you can most likely get the same quality for cheaper. As far as standard forged lowers, if they're from a reputable company, then they're generally all the same. Sometimes, you're just paying a premium for the roll mark.

My advice is to buy a stripped lower of any reputable brand (which will be hard right now, given the political climate and all the "panic buying" going on) and a lower parts kit of your choice and put it all together yourself. Then buy a complete BCM upper, and just slap it on there. You'll absolutely save some money.

I've assembled many stripped lowers, but I've never assembled an upper from parts yet.

If you don't want to buy a barrel torque wrench and a headspace guage, then that's the way to do it. PSA often has sales on lowers and lower parts kits. www.m4carbine.com has assembly instructions. It's really as simple as Lego w/ springs. If you can read, work a hammer (maybe only once or twice on 1 or 2 pins-use blue tape so you don't scratch the receiver) and have any modicum of mechanical knowledge you'll have no problem. Trickiest part is the bolt latch.

Get an m16 full auto bolt carrier group. They're stouter and not an NFA item. Just remember 18" barrel and 26" over all is shortest you can go without registering it as a short barrel rifle (SBR). A 16" barrel w/ pinned flash hider to bring it to 18" is fine.

Check your state laws to make sure you don't have some funky list of parts to adhere to.

PSA lower w/ a Bravo co upper would be one nice rifle for under $1k.

Decide if you want a railed fore end (heavier and HOT when firing, even just a few rounds) or a plastic hand guard. Plastic will be lighter. And as much as I hate to say it, Magpul makes a great hand guard that will accept vertical or angled fore grips and a light if you so desire. If it's use is for home defense, I suggest gettin one. I have a Surefire Scout. Expensive, but incredibly well made, bright light. I have a red filter on it to conserve vision in the dark.

I do this all day, almost every day. If you need help, you can PM me. If you get really in over your head, I can walk you through it on the phone.

A little trick: a firing pin (a used one that you're not putting in the gun) or .223/5.56 bullet will push out any pins in the gun.

Biggest decision is to go piston or direct impingement. Piston systems have come a long way and work just fine if you set it up right. They are pretty much maintenance free if you build it correctly w/ the right buffer weight and gas system length. Gas system length comes more in to play w/ D.I., though. But a complete upper will have this assembled already for you. Either choice is a self cleaning part. Once the gas block is on, it's best to leave it.

So yeah, I'd just get a stripped lower and a complete upper- A2 front sight or flat top w/ flip up sights. I like both. Just depends what the carbine is for.
 
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shatner

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Never heard of them. Core15 is pretty good, Daniel Defense (expensive), PSA, BCM, Rock River Arms. DPMS is 'ok'. Great if you want an AR-10 (.308). Stag is ok. I'd be way more picky about the upper than the lower.

Honestly, a forged lower is a forged lower. Only 3 or 4 shops make lowers. The 'Armories' contract the lowers out to one of a few machine shops. Pick the company you like with the roll mark you want.

Before you buy, put your parts list here and we'll check it out for you. AR15news.com on Facebook has links to great deals.

Brownells.com has an AR15 builder program. You can play with it, see what you like and get an idea of cost. I wouldn't necessarily buy from them, though. Some stuff, sure. Most you'll find cheaper elsewhere.
 
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shatner

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Here's a nice upper from PSA w/ a 5.56 chamber, M4 feedramps and a chrome lined barrel. You can run .223 in a 5.56, but it's not recommended to go opposite. The pressure in 5.56 is about 10kpsi higher than .223.
PSA 16" Mid-Length CL MP Premium Upper - Barreled Upper Assemblies - AR-15

You can add a charging handle, choose rail or plastic handguard, muzzle device and a carry handle rear sight. But it will support an optic without the carry handle if you prefer.
 

shatner

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And w/ the panic buying causing price increase: if you shop smart, you'll spend very little more. But things get sold out fast. Also realize that PSA is a very small shop w/ huge volume. So it may take a month to get your parts, even though it says in stock. Either way, call first to make absolute sure it's in stock. They aren't the best about updating their sight.
 

shatner

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Looks like lowers are the hard ones to find so far in my limited search. Thinking about one of these $439 uppers from BCM.

You'll still need a handguard or rail, bolt carrier group (bolt carrier, bolt, firing pin, extractor) and a charging handle. Just fyi. The difficult parts are already done on those uppers. If you can find that cheap you're gtg. It's set up for a plastic handguard. I'd just go with that. Plus w/ the gov. barrel it'll be a lighter weight carbine. Which is very nice.
 
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